Opium (perfume)
Appearance
Opium | |
---|---|
Yves Saint Laurent | |
Flanker(s) | Opium pour Homme Belle d'Opium |
Opium is an Oriental-spicyvetiver.[4]
Naming and theme
Opium caused a stir with its controversial name and brought accusations that brand designer
Chinese Americans demanded a change of the name and a public apology from Saint Laurent for "his insensitivity to Chinese history and Chinese American concerns." They formed a committee called the American Coalition Against Opium and Drug Abuse, which expressed outrage at the choice of a name representing "a menace that destroyed many lives in China."[6] However, the controversy in part helped to aid the perfume's publicity, with the perfume soon becoming a best-selling scent.[4]
For its U.S. launch party in 1978, a
South Street Seaport Museum in New York's East Harbor, and writer Truman Capote sat at the helm of the ship at the party.[4] The ship was draped with banners of gold, red, and purple, and the Oriental theme was displayed with a 1,000-pound (450 kg) bronze statue of the Buddha, decorated with white cattleya orchids.[4] YSL carried the Oriental theme into its packaging design as well—the red plastic container holding the perfume's glass vial, designed by Pierre Dinand,[7] was inspired by inro, the small Japanese lacquered cases that were worn hanging from the obi and held perfumes, herbs and medicines.[8]
Opium, Lilac Perfume Oil and White Musk from The Body Shop, Juniper Breeze from Bath & Body Works and Royal Secret formerly Germaine Monteil were among the perfumes tested in 2003 in a study of the relationship of scents to memory.[9]
Ad campaign controversy
A poster
stiletto heels, seemingly in the throes of ecstasy, with her legs spread apart as she covers one of her nipples with her hand.[10] This ad campaign, photographed by Steven Meisel, was widely seen in print ads and posters in bus shelters in many countries. It won an award in Spain[11] but generated an uproar in other places, particularly in the United Kingdom. The British Advertising Standards Authority received more than 700 complaints from the public, and ordered the posters to be withdrawn on the grounds that they were too sexually suggestive, degrading to women, and likely to cause "serious or widespread offence".[12][13] American journalist Susan Faludi argued that certain perfume ad campaigns pushed "idealization of weak yielding women" to the extreme, citing the Opium advertisement as a primary example.[14]
Opium pour Homme
YSL launched the
cedar and Tolu balsam. Its flask was designed by Jérôme Failliant-Dumas.[15]
Commercials
In 1992 and 1999, U.S. film director David Lynch created commercials for Opium.[16]
References
- ISBN 0-9639065-4-2.
- ^ ISBN 0-7514-0403-9.
- ^ Jan Moran lists "hesperides" instead.
- ^ ISBN 0-9639065-4-2.
- ^ Agence France-Presse (2008-06-01). "Fashion giant Yves Saint Laurent dies at 71". Archived from the original on 2008-06-03. Retrieved 2008-11-10.
- ISBN 0-415-92457-X.
- ^ "Histoire de parfum : Opium". Cosmopolitan (in French). Hearst Corporation. 28 May 2014. Retrieved 1 June 2014.
- ISBN 0-9639065-4-2.
- S2CID 3918680.
- ^ Opium advertisement, Yves Saint Laurent, at The Sophie Dahl Gallery
- ISBN 0-06-093775-0.
- TheGuardian.com. 19 December 2000. Archivedfrom the original on October 31, 2022. Retrieved December 17, 2016.
- ISBN 0-335-20505-4.
- ISBN 0-385-42507-4.
- ^ ISBN 0-7514-0403-9.
- ISBN 0-571-22018-5.