Simone Moro

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Simone Moro
Bergamo, Italy
OccupationAlpinist
Known for

Simone Moro (born 27 October 1967 in

eight-thousanders: Shishapangma in 2005,[1][2] Makalu in 2009,[3][4] Gasherbrum II in 2011,[5][6] and Nanga Parbat in 2016.[7][8] No other climber has made more first winter ascents of an eight-thousander in history. He has summited Everest
four times, in 2000, 2002, 2006, and 2010.

Moro is also an experienced helicopter pilot.

ES 101 Raven turboshaft-powered helicopter (6705m).[12]

Early life

Born in

cum laude
.

Climbing career

Moro began his climbing activity on the

Peak Korzhenevskaya (7,105 m [23,310 ft]), Ismoil Somoni Peak (7,495 m (24,590 ft), formerly known as Pik Kommunizma), Pik Khan Tengri (7,010 m [23,000 ft]) with young Kazakhstan guide Denis Urubko; then summited Everest with him in 2000[13] and Marble Wall
in winter 2001.

In 2002 he summited three peaks:

Batura and Batokshi peaks in 2005, Broad Peak in winter 2006 and 2007. In 2005 he achieved the first winter summit of Shishapangma, with Piotr Morawski.[1] In 2006 he completed a solo south–north traverse of Everest descending from the top in five hours.[17]

In 2008 he made (with

alpine style and in 43 hours.[18]

In January 2009 Moro made the first winter ascent of

Peak Pobeda, Sakha along with fellow Italian mountaineer Tamara Lunger.[21]

Rescue missions

In May 2001 he tried to traverse Everest–Lhotse: during an attempt on the wall of Lhotse at 8000 metres he abandoned the climb to search, rescue, and save English alpinist Tom Moores.[22] Moro was a recipient of the Fair Play Pierre de Coubertin trophy from UNESCO,[23] the Civilian Gold Medal from Italian president Carlo Azeglio Ciampi[24] and the David A. Sowles Memorial Award from the American Alpine Club.[25] Tom Moores recalls his meeting with Moro this way:

On the way down we met Simone who had unfortunately failed to get to the summit because of the energy he had used rescuing me. I felt and still feel very guilty, but Simone who is a very humble man shrugged his shoulders and said, "It is no problem. In the future, I can still climb and you can still climb and that's more important than any summit." His sentiment is a lesson to us all, I believe it’s a perfect example of the true climbing spirit. I will never be able to thank him enough for what he did for me, he is an amazing man and a real hero.

— Tom Moores, 2001[26]

In 2009, he bought a helicopter with his own money to carry out search and rescue operations in the Nepalese Himalayas for Nepalese people.[11][27] He has piloted the helicopter several times to rescue alpinists, sherpas, trekkers, and people in remote areas.[11][28]

Charitable work

In 2003, Moro projected and financed a school for 396 Sherpa children in the Nepalese village of Syadul. The objective of the project, carried with an Italian foundation, was to prevent early school-leaving in the area.[29][30] The school was opened in 2005. It is located in a village a thousand meters above sea level and three hours from the nearest road.[31]

Near the Nanga Parbat base camp, he financed, built, and donated to the Pakistani district of Gilgit Baltistan a small masonry building for local shepherds and a small hospital in the village of Ser.[32]

Eight-thousanders climbed

Bibliography

  • Moro, Simone (2003). Cometa sull'Annapurna (in Italian). Corbaccio.
    ISBN 9788879725903
    .
  • Moro, Simone (2008). 8000 metri di vita (in Italian). Grafica e Arte.
    ISBN 9788872012727
    .
  • Moro, Simone (2016). Nanga (in Italian). Rizzoli.
    ISBN 9788817090230
    .

References

  1. ^ a b c "Moro and Morawski first winter ascent of Shisha Pangma!". planetmountain.com. 14 January 2005. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
  2. ^ "Simone y Piotr coronan el Shisha" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 14 January 2005. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
  3. ^ Dougald MacDonald (9 February 2009). "Moro, Urubko Summit Makalu in Winter". climbing.com. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
  4. ^ a b c "Simone Moro and Denis Urubko: Makalu first winter ascent". planetmountain.com. 9 February 2009. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
  5. ^ Daniel Starr (2 February 2011). "First Winter Ascent of an 8000m Peak in Pakistan". alpinist.com. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
  6. ^ a b c Vinicio Stefanello (2 February 2011). "Gasherbrum II, historic first winter ascent: summit for Moro, Urubko and Richards!". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
  7. ^ a b Szczepanski, Dominik. "Nanga Parbat zdobyta w zimie po raz pierwszy!". Sport.pl.
  8. ^ a b "Alpinismo, impresa su Nanga Parbat - Ultima Ora". ANSA.it. February 26, 2016.
  9. ^ "From fight to flight: Simone Moro pilots highest-ever Everest rescue". www.thebmc.co.uk.
  10. ^ "grough — Simone Moro in highest ever Everest helicopter rescue of stricken climber". www.grough.co.uk.
  11. ^ a b c "Elisoccorso in Himalaya, intervista a Moro, Folini, Senoner". PlanetMountain.com.
  12. ^ "Bolzano: il super elicottero di Simone Moro batte il record del mondo di altitudine". altoadige.it. 25 November 2015. Retrieved 28 April 2021.
  13. ^ a b "Moro and Urubku reach the summit of Everest". planetmountain.com. 26 May 2000. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
  14. ^ a b "Cho Oyu summit for Moro, Nicolini and Mezzanotte". planetmountain.com. 9 May 2002. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
  15. ^ a b "Curnis and Moro summit Everest". planetmountain.com. 24 May 2002. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
  16. ^ a b "Broad Peak success for Moro, Ochoa, Lafaille, Viesturs". planetmountain.com. 16 July 2003. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
  17. ^ a b "Himalaya: Simone Moro compie la traversata dell'Everest da Sud a Nord" (in Italian). planetmountain.com. 20 May 2006. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
  18. ^ Lindsay Griffin (11 August 2008). "History and Details from Beka Brakai Chhok". alpinist.com. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
  19. ^ Douglas, Ed (17 May 2017). "Ueli Steck obituary". The Guardian. Retrieved 4 January 2023.
  20. ^ http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=43495 Nanga Parbat: summit and first winter ascent by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon
  21. ^ "Simone Moro, Tamara Lunger and the first winter ascent of Pik Pobeda in Siberia". PlanetMountain.com.
  22. ISSN 0065-6925
    . Retrieved 26 April 2024.
  23. ^ "Fair Play award winners". fairplayinternational.org. Archived from the original on 28 March 2014. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
  24. ^ "Moro Simone - Medaglia d'oro al valor civile" (in Italian). quirinale.it. 4 December 2012. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
  25. ^ "David A. Sowles Memorial Award". americanalpineclub.org. Archived from the original on 28 May 2013. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
  26. ^ K2News.com, Lhotse 2001: Gary Pfisterer and the International Expedition
  27. ^ "Simone Moro, angelo rimasto senz'ali". ilgiornaledellaprotezionecivile.it.
  28. ^ Schaffer, Grayson (May 7, 2012). "Simone Moro: Alpinist, Helicopter Rescue Pilot, Everest Kingpin". Outside Online.
  29. ^ "Archived copy" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 2014-03-28. Retrieved 2014-03-28.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: archived copy as title (link)
  30. ^ "Archived copy" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 2014-03-28. Retrieved 2014-03-28.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: archived copy as title (link)
  31. ^ [1][dead link]
  32. ^ "NANGA PARBAT WINTER 2014 MORO E GOETTLER TORNANO AL CAMPO BASE". February 8, 2014.
  33. ^ "Everest, ascents from Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner to Silvio Mondinelli, Abele Blanc and Simone Moro". planetmountain.com. 24 May 2010. Retrieved 19 June 2013.

External links

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