François Lesage
François Lesage (31 March 1929 – 1 December 2011) was a French couture embroiderer.[1][2][3][4] Lesage was globally known in the art of embroidery and worked for the largest fashion and haute couture houses.[1][2][3][4] His atelier is now part of Chanel through the company's subsidiary, Paraffection. [1][2][3][4]
Early life and background
Lesage, of Norman origin, was the son of Albert and Marie-Louise Lesage. He had an older brother, Jean-Louis, and a twin sister, Christiane. In 1924, Lesage's parents took over the workshop of the embroiderer Michonet.[2] The workshop, founded in 1858, was known for working with Parisian theatrical costume designers and producing special orders for the court of Napoleon III. The atelier supplied the best-known figures in Parisian couture, from Worth to Paquin and Madeleine Vionnet. Albert Lesage's first career was as a broker in international trade. He was taken prisoner during World War I and began a new life in Chicago, where he was hired as director-designer of the women's clothing department at Marshall Field's in 1919. Returning to Paris three years later, Albert joined Michonet (who was looking for a successor). Marie-Louise was an assistant in charge of embroidery for Madeleine Vionnet. She and Albert met at Michonet's, where Yo (as she was nicknamed) was sent to oversee orders from the dressmaker. When they took over the Michonet business, it was renamed Albert Lesage et Cie. The new company diversified, developing its own collection of embroidered accessories and printed fabrics. Albert encouraged his son to serve an apprenticeship at his side. Although he inherited his father's gift for drawing, François was a talented colorist like his mother. After the end of World War II, he opened a studio on Sunset Boulevard in 1948. Lesage settled in Hollywood and created embroideries for film-studio couturiers. Albert's death a year later interrupted his plans,[2] and he returned to France at age 20 to join his mother.
Lesage continuously expanded his collection of samples. Under his leadership, the maison became the preferred embroiderer of many fashion houses. "Embroidery is to haute couture what fireworks are to Bastille Day" was a maxim Lesage liked to repeat, summing up his philosophy about the craft.[citation needed] His boldness and imagination gradually opened the doors of international fashion, and American, Italian and Japanese designers drew on his talent. In 1987, a line of embroidered accessories was revived and sold in the Schiaparelli boutique on Place Vendôme.
Maison Lesage
In the
François collaborated with
Arguably the most famous are jackets with Vincent Van Gogh's Irises and Sunflowers for the summer 1988 collection, each of which required 600 hours of work. The iris jacket was made with 250,000 sequins in 22 colors, 200,000 beads and 250 metres (270 yd) of ribbon.
The 1980s began international collaborative relationships with
The Lesage archives are a source of inspiration for designers. A
Although fashion was an essential part of Lesage's work, the embroidery atelier also carried out special orders. In 1997, for France's
Awards and recognition
Lesage was celebrated in a 1988 monograph, "Haute Couture Embroidery: The Art of Lesage" by Palmer White. An exhibit paid tribute to his talent at the Palais Galliera in Paris and the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York (1987), the Fashion Foundation of Tokyo (1989) and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (1991). Lesage received many awards: Regional Grand Prix for Arts Craftsmanship, the Medal of the City of Paris in 1984 and Knight of the Order of the Arts et Métiers (1985). He received the Grand Prix de la Création of the City of Paris (1989). In 1994 Lesage was made a Knight in the Order of the Legion of Honor, and was promoted to the rank of Officer in 2007. He received the rank of Commander in the Order of Arts and Letters (2003). The craft industry (the Métier) named him Master of the Art in November 2011, a few weeks before his death.[2]
References
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l "Francois Lesage dies at 82; French embroidery king". Los Angeles Times. Associated Press. 2011-12-03. Retrieved 2011-12-21.
- ^ a b c d e f Frankel, Susannah (2011-12-02). "Farewell to man who gave haute couture its shimmer". The Independent. Retrieved 2011-12-21.
- ^ New York Times. Retrieved 2011-12-21.
- ^ a b c "François Lesage obituary". The Telegraph. 2011-12-02. Retrieved 2011-12-21.