Slip (needlework)

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Illustration of a stool cover with a slip of borage worked in tent stitch on canvas and then applied to a velvet ground, Hardwick Hall, early 17th century.[1]

In

canvaswork (pettipoint), cut out, and applied to a woven background fabric. By extension, slip may also mean any embroidered or canvaswork motif, floral or not, mounted to fabric in this way.[2][3]

Isolated motifs arranged in rows are common in English embroidery from the 14th to the 17th centuries, and small floral slips were the most popular.

Technique and inspiration

The name slip as used in needlework derives from the horticultural sense, where it describes a cutting of a plant used for grafting.[4]

gillyflowers, that is, carnations and pinks
), from A niewe Herball by Henry Lyte, 1578.

Canvaswork floral slips and other motifs

vestments were cut up and the fabrics and motifs reused to make secular furnishings.[6] Appliquéd slips of both old fabric and new canvaswork are characteristic of domestic textiles such as chair covers, cushions, and especially wall hangings and bed curtains throughout the Elizabethan and Jacobean eras
.

Elizabethan slips were based on the

William Turner's A New Herball (published in three parts, 1551-1568), Henry Lyte's A niewe Herball (1578), and John Gerard's Great Herbal (1597),[7] and were intentionally naturalistic. By the first quarter of the 17th century, simpler designs for slips were being published in books of patterns specifically for embroidery, like Richard Shorleyker's A Scholehouse for the Needle (1632).[4][8]

Slip motifs are also seen in

blackwork embroidery, worked in silk, and in Jacobean embroidery and crewel embroidery in silk and wool
.

Notes

  1. ^ Holme, Charles, editor: Art In England during the Elizabethan and Stuart Periods by Aymer Vallance, p. 100-102
  2. ^ Thomasina Beck, The Embroiderer's Story, describes "a slip of a coach on a chairback" (p. 22)
  3. ^ Digby, Elizabethan Embroidery, p. 132
  4. ^ a b c Digby, Elizabethan Embroidery, p. 52
  5. ^ Levey and King, The Victoria and Albert Museum's Textile Collection Vol. 3: Embroidery in Britain from 1200 to 1750, p. 12-16
  6. ^ Levey, An Elizabethan Inheritance: The Hardwick Hall Textiles, p. 15 and 66.
  7. ^ Beck, The Embroiderer's Story, p. 22
  8. ^ Levey and King, The Victoria and Albert Museum's Textile Collection Vol. 3: Embroidery in Britain from 1200 to 1750, p. 16 and 66

References

  • Beck, The Embroiderer's Story. Newton Abbott, Devon: David & Charles, 1995,
  • Digby, George Wingfield. Elizabethan Embroidery. New York: Thomas Yoseloff, 1964.
  • Holme, Charles, editor: Art In England during the Elizabethan and Stuart Periods by Aymer Vallance, London, Paris, and New York: Offices of The Studio, 1908, PDF at https://archive.org/details/artinenglandduri00valluoft
  • Hughes, Therle, English Domestic Needlework, London: Abbey Fine Arts Press (no date, no ISBN)
  • Levey, S. M. and D. King, The Victoria and Albert Museum's Textile Collection Vol. 3: Embroidery in Britain from 1200 to 1750, Victoria and Albert Museum, 1993,

External links