Dante (Alexander McQueen collection)
Dante (Alexander McQueen A/W 1996) is the eighth collection launched by the British fashion designer Alexander McQueen. The concept for this collection was mainly inspired by the 14th century Florentine poet, writer and philosopher Dante Alighieri and his famous work Divine Comedy. The show was set in the Christ Church in Spitalfields (East London) on 1 March 1996. Some of the garments featured prints of Don McCullin’s photographs taken during the Vietnam War (1955-1975) and crucifix masks inspired in the photographer and a continuous referent in McQueen’s work, Joel-Peter Witkin’s self-portraits; the looks for this show also included Philip Treacy headpieces. The show was dedicated to McQueen’s long-time friend and muse, Isabella Blow; it constituted a commentary on religion and war.[1]
This show was an important milestone in the British designer’s career, as it marked the beginning of a long list of "art-directed" shows by him. It attracted an international audience to McQueen's work, as it called the attention of the multinational corporation LVMH, resulting on McQueen's appointment as the creative director of the French haute couture house, Givenchy, later that year.[2] Some pieces of the collection would be part of the exhibition dedicated to the British designer, Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, presented at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York in 2011 and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London in 2015.
Inspiration and creative process
Religion has always been a recurrent theme in McQueen's work but, perhaps, it is in this collection when we see it more vividly. The figure of Dante Alighieri (who gives a name to this collection) and its personal views of hell and the afterlife developed in his famous work Divine Comedy, helped McQueen to craft the initial concept for the show. The legends that surrounded the English Baroque architect
Lace was perhaps the principal fabric in this collection, not only used in dresses but also in veils and masks that covered model's faces. Denim and wool would also be used for the collection, many times as dresses and sweaters which would have been slashed showing the models’ breasts and hips. The collection also included corsetry and jewellery designed by Shaun Leane (a habitual member of McQueen's team). The haute couture milliner, Philip Treacy, also collaborated in this collection designing headpieces resembling alters and skulls. The selected colours for this collection were black (as in many cultures is a symbol of death and mourning) white or bone (symbol of purity) and soft purple or lilac (the colour of Victorian half-mourning).[5] Prints of Victorian classical patterns and McCulin's pictures were also used in some of the garments. This collection was composed of 82 looks and it was the first time that McQueen would include menswear.[6] Also, several fashion editors concluded that this collection had more wearable pieces than previous McQueen's collections, making it more accessible to buyers and critics.
The show
Dante was presented in Christ Church in Spitalfields (East London). McQueen chose this location because of its disturbing past. The church was designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor in the 18th century and, since then, it has been the subject of controversy as there is a common belief that Hawksmoor had connections with Satanism. A century later, this location would be a central point of reference in the investigation of Jack the Ripper's murders as all the murders attributed to the killer were perpetrated on the surroundings of this church.[7] McQueen used these facts to create certain tension among the models. The catwalk was built in a crucifix shape, and the music selected for the show included Samuel Barber’s "Adagio for Strings"[8] mixed with pieces of Gregorian chant, hip hop[9] and samples of the movie Apocalypse Now by Francis Ford Coppola.
The Show featured several iconic pieces in McQueen's career. It included numerous versions the then famous McQueen's "
Repercussion and legacy
Dante is considered one of the most important fashion shows in McQueen's career.
References
- ^ Ahmed, Osman (4 May 2018). "The Era-Defining Alexander McQueen Show That Took Fashion to Church". AnOther Magazine. Retrieved 15 November 2020.
- ^ O' Brien, Charlie (10 December 2015). "Renegades Of Fashion: Alexander McQueen — "It's a Jungle Out There"". Fashion Industry Broadcast. Retrieved 15 November 2020.
- ^ Allwood, Emma Hope (24 August 2015). "If you like McQueen's asylum, you'll like Joel-Peter Witkin". Dazed Magazine. Retrieved 17 November 2020.
- ^ Ahmed, Osman (4 May 2018). "The Era-Defining Alexander McQueen Show That Took Fashion to Church". AnOther Magazine. AnOther. Retrieved 17 November 2020.
I think religion has caused every war in the world, which is why I showed in a church.
- ^ "ENCYCLOPEDIA OF COLLECTIONS: DANTE". Victoria and Albert Museum. Retrieved 16 November 2020.
- ^ "Alexander McQueen Fall 1996 Ready-to-Wear". Vogue Runway. Retrieved 18 November 2020.
- ^ O'Brien, Charlie (10 December 2015). "Renegades Of Fashion: Alexander McQueen — "It's a Jungle Out There"". Fashion Industry Broadcast. Retrieved 15 November 2020.
- ^ "ENCYCLOPEDIA OF COLLECTIONS: DANTE". Victoria and Albert Museum. Retrieved 16 November 2020.
- ^ O'Flaherty, Mark C. "London 1996: The greatest fashion show on Earth". Civilian Global. Retrieved 16 November 2020.
- ^ O'Flaherty, Mark.C. "London 1996: The greatest fashion show on Earth". Civilian Global. Retrieved 16 November 2020.
- ^ Crisell, Hattie (16 April 2015). "4 People Remember Alexander McQueen's 1996 Dante Show". The Cut. Retrieved 17 November 2020.
- ^ O'Flaherty, Mark C. "London 1996: The greatest fashion show on Earth". Civilian Global. Retrieved 17 November 2020.
- ^ "Alexander McQueen Fall 1996 Ready-To-Wear". Vogue Runway. Retrieved 17 November 2020.
- ^ "ENCYCLOPEDIA OF COLLECTIONS: DANTE". Victoria and Albert Museum. Retrieved 17 November 2020.
- ^ "Alexander McQueen Fall 1996 Ready-To-Wear". Vogue Runway. Retrieved 17 November 2020.
- ^ "Alexander McQueen Fall 1996 Ready-To-Wear". Vogue Runway. Retrieved 17 November 2020.
- ^ "Alexander McQueen Fall 1996 Ready-To-Wear". Vogue Runway. Retrieved 17 November 2020.
- ^ O'Flaherty, Mark C. "London 1996: The greatest fashion show on Earth". Civilian Global. Retrieved 18 November 2020.
- ^ "Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty". MET museum. Retrieved 17 November 2020.
- ^ Ahmed, Osman (4 May 2018). "The Era-Defining Alexander McQueen Show That Took Fashion to Church". AnOther Magazine. Retrieved 17 November 2020.
- ^ O'Brien, Charlie (10 December 2015). "Renegades Of Fashion: Alexander McQueen — "It's a Jungle Out There"". Fashion Industry Broadcast. Retrieved 17 November 2020.
- ^ "Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty". MET museum. Retrieved 17 November 2020.