Heroin chic
Heroin chic is a style popularized in early-
Background
At the time during which heroin
Grunge
In the early 1990s, the rise of the grunge alternative rock music and subculture in Seattle brought media attention to the use of heroin by prominent grunge artists. In the 1990s, the media focused on the use of heroin by musicians in the Seattle grunge scene, with a 1992 New York Times article listing the city's "three principal drugs" as "espresso, beer and heroin"[6] and a 1996 article calling Seattle's grunge scene the "...subculture that has most strongly embraced heroin".[7] Tim Jonze from The Guardian states that "...heroin had blighted the [grunge] scene ever since its inception in the mid-80s" and he argues that the "...involvement of heroin mirrors the self-hating, nihilistic aspect to the music"; in addition to the heroin deaths, Jonze points out that Stone Temple Pilots' Scott Weiland, as well as Courtney Love, Mark Lanegan and Evan Dando "...all had their run-ins with the drug, but lived to tell the tale."[8] A 2014 book stated that whereas in the 1980s, people used the "stimulant" cocaine to socialize and "...celebrate good times", in the 1990s grunge scene, the "depressant" heroin was used to "retreat" into a "cocoon" and be "...sheltered from a harsh and unforgiving world which offered...few prospects for...change or hope."[9]
Leading grunge band Alice in Chains had a song "God Smack", which included the line "stick your arm for some real fun", a reference to injecting heroin.[7] Seattle grunge musicians known to use heroin included Kurt Cobain, who was using the drug very frequently around the time of his death; "Andrew Wood of Mother Love Bone overdosed on heroin in 1990"; "Stefanie Sargent of 7 Year Bitch who died of an overdose of the same opiate in 1992, along with Layne Staley of Alice in Chains who publicly detailed his battles with heroin...".[10] Mike Starr of Alice in Chains[9] and Jonathan Melvoin from The Smashing Pumpkins also died from heroin. After Cobain's death, his "...widow, singer Courtney Love, characterized Seattle as a drug mecca, where heroin is easier to get than in San Francisco or Los Angeles."[10]
Rise and fall
This
The trend eventually faded, in part due to the heroin-related death of prominent fashion photographer Davide Sorrenti in 1997.[13][14] Journalist Amy Spindler described Sorrenti's death as "like a small bomb going off", extinguishing public denial of heroin use in the fashion world. The term heroin chic itself was coined at Sorrenti's wake by editor Ingrid Sischy, who commented: "This is heroin, this isn't chic. This has got to stop, this heroin chic." After his death, Sorrenti's mother, Francesca Sorrenti, led a public campaign against the use of heroin in fashion, after which the promotion of heroin chic subsided.[14] In 1999, Vogue dubbed Brazilian supermodel Gisele Bündchen "The Return of the Sexy Model" and the end of the heroin chic era.[15]
Criticism and analysis
Heroin chic fashion drew much criticism and scorn, especially from anti-drug groups.[16] Fashion designers, models such as Kate Moss and Jaime King, and movies such as Trainspotting were blamed for glamorizing heroin use. Then-U.S. president Bill Clinton condemned the look, calling it "destructive" and a "glorification of heroin".[14] Other commentators denied that fashion images made drug use itself more attractive. Jacob Sullum wrote in Reason magazine that "There is no reason to expect that people attracted to the look promoted by Calvin Klein and other advertisers... will also be attracted to heroin, any more than suburban teen-agers who wear baggy pants and backward caps will end up shooting people from moving cars."[13]
See also
- List of chics
- Kinderwhore
- Soft grunge
- Heroine Sheiks
References
- ^ ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2020-08-24.
- ^ Givhan, Robin (August 8, 1996). "Why Dole Frowns On Fashion". Los Angeles Times. Retrieved August 1, 2018.
- ^ ISBN 0-7619-2342-X.
- ^ Vallely, Paul (2005-09-10). "Gia: The tragic tale of the world's first supermodel". Archived from the original on 2008-01-01.
- ISBN 0-8018-8228-1.
- ^ Marin, Rick (November 15, 1992). "Grunge: A Success Story". The New York Times. Retrieved January 29, 2017.
- ^ a b Dasein, Deena (December 1996). "'Rock 'n' Horse: Rock's Heroin Connection". Perfect Sound Forever. Retrieved January 29, 2017.
- ^ Jonze, Tim (10 March 2011). "Mike Starr and the deadliest musical genre Another grunge star has died young. Tim Jonze asks: is it the most lethal genre?". The Guardian. Retrieved 6 February 2017.
- ^ a b Marion, Nancy E and Oliver, Willard M. Drugs in American Society: An Encyclopedia of History, Politics, Culture. and the Law. ABC-CLIO, 2014 . p. 888.
- ^ a b "'Seattle Scene' And Heroin Use: How Bad Is It?". The Seattle Times. April 20, 1994. Retrieved January 29, 2017.
- ^ Calvin Klein special on the Biography channel
- YouTube.
- ^ a b Sullum, Jacob. "Victims of Everything." Reason Magazine (May 23, 1997)
- ^ a b c Helmore, Edward (24 May 2019). "'Heroin chic' and the tangled legacy of photographer Davide Sorrenti". The Guardian. Retrieved 17 July 2022.
- ^ Gisele Bündchen. "Celebrity Central: Gisele Bundchen biography". People.com. Archived from the original on 2011-01-07. Retrieved 2011-03-07.
- ^ "Heroin chic". World Wide Words.