Saraghrar
Saraghrar | |
---|---|
Ultra | |
Coordinates | 36°32′51″N 72°07′00″E / 36.54750°N 72.11667°E[1] |
Naming | |
Native name | سراغرار |
Geography | |
Location | Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan |
Parent range | Hindu Kush |
Climbing | |
First ascent | 1959 |
Easiest route | glacier/snow/ice |
Saraghrar (
Climbing history
![](http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/bd/Torre_di_ghiaccio_Saraghrar.jpg/220px-Torre_di_ghiaccio_Saraghrar.jpg)
In 1958 a British team led by Ted Norrish made a first try on the northeast summit (7,349 m (24,111 ft)). This expedition was stopped by the death of member P. S. Nelson.
The year after, on August 24, 1959, the northeast peak was climbed for the first time by an Italian team led by
On August 24, 1967, Satoh Yukitoshi and Hara Hirosada, members of a Japanese expedition led by Kenichiro Yamamoto (Mountaineering club of Hitotsubashi University) reached the South Summit for the first time by the Rosh-Gol glacier.
In 1971, Nagano, member of a Japanese expedition (Shizuoka climbing club) led by Akiyama Reiske, summitted the SW peak for the first time on July 29.
Three Catalan expeditions in 1975, 1977 and 1982 tried the Northwest summit (7,300 m (23,950ft)) via Southwest pillar from the Rosh Gol valley. On August 9, 1982, Juan Lopez Diaz (expedition leader), Enrique Lucas Llop and Nil Bohigas Martorell reached the northwest II summit (7,200 m (23,622 ft)).
In 2005, five members of a Swiss expedition led by Jean-Michel Zweiacker reached the southeast summit (7,208 m (23,648 ft)) for the first time (Mazal Chevallier, Sébastien Grosjean and Yves-Alain Peter on July 24; Marc Bélanger and Jean-Michel Zweiacker on July 29).
In 2021, Georgian mountaineers Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, and Bakar Gelashvili made the first ascent of Saraghrar Northwest on September 10. The ascent was completed in alpine style over 8 days, via the unclimbed NW face from the Rosh Gol valley, and won them the 2022
See also
- List of highest mountainsof the world
- List of mountains in Pakistan
References
- ^ a b "Afghanistan and Central/Southern Pakistan" Peaklist.org. Retrieved 2013-02-13.
- ^ Saraghrar on peakbagger.com
- ^ Walsh, Anthony (19 October 2022). "Alpinism's Highest Honors Announced: The 2022 Piolets d'Or Recipients". Climbing. Retrieved 1 January 2023.
3.https://agenda.ge/en/news/2021/2647
Sources
- Paropamiso (by Fosco Maraini, 2003) (Mondadori, Milano, Italy) ISBN 88-04-51209-1
- Chitral Tour Guide Book (by Rahmat Karim Baig, 2004)
- Hindu Kush Study Series (2 Volumes) (by Rahmat Karim Baig, 1994/1997) (Rehmat Printing Press, Peshawar, Pakistan)