Tongtianguanfu
| Tongtianguanfu | ||
|---|---|---|
Hanyu Pinyin | Tōngtiān guānfú | |
Tongtianguanfu (Chinese: 通天冠服) is a form of court attire in hanfu which was worn by the emperor during the Song dynasty on very important occasions, such as grand court sessions and during major title-granting ceremonies. The attire traces its origin from the Han dynasty.[1][2]: 91 It was also worn in the Jin dynasty emperors when the apparel system of the Song dynasty was imitated and formed their own carriages and apparel system,[3] and in the Ming dynasty.[4] The tongtianguanfu was composed of a red outer robe, a white inner robe, a bixi, and a guan called tongtianguan, and a neck accessory called fangxin quling.[1]
Terminology
The term tongtian means "direct links with heaven".[5]
Composition and construction
The tongtianguanfu is composed of:
The gauze outer robe (paofu), called jiangshapao (Chinese: 绛纱袍).[6] It was crimson in colour with patterns of clouds and dragons embroidery which was gold and red in colours.[1] There were black borders stitched to the collar, sleeves, lapels and hems of the crimson outer robe.[1]
The crimson outer robe was worn with a red gauze skirt and a crimson bixi (Chinese: 蔽膝, knee cover) was fastened around the waist of its wearer.[1][6] The inner garment was a white robe (Chinese: 白纱中单).[6][1]
The high crown was called tongtianguan (Chinese: 通天冠; lit. 'a hat accessing the sky'[3]), which was also known as chengtianguan (lit. 'a hat bearing the sky').[3] The tongtianguan was exclusively worn by the Emperor during some grand ceremonies.[3] The high crown was originally nine cun tall and tilting towards the back to form a "rolling shape" made by metal beams, with a "mountain"-shape and zhantong (展筒) on the front,[7] and pinned on the hair with hairpins made of jade or rhinoceros horn.[1] By the Jin dynasty, the tongtianguan added a golden mountain-shaped plaque ornament ("dāng", 珰) on the front,[8] and by the Tang dynasty, tongtianguan of the Emperor had 24 beams.[2]: 91
A pendant-like ornament called fangxin quling (Chinese: 方心曲领; lit. 'bent collar with a square center') was hung around the neck.[1][6] The fangxin quling was a notable feature in the ceremonial court attire of the Song and Ming dynasties.[9] It was made out of silk and was cut into a circle (which hung around the neck and shoulder areas) and a square (either solid or open square) which would fall over the cross-collared lapels of the paofu.[9] The shape of the circle and square symbolized the Heaven and earth respectively.[9]
A belt with ribbons was also tied to the waist.[1]
As footwear, the Emperor would have worn white stockings and black shoes.[1][6]
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Tongtianguan (通天冠) from theGujin Tushu Jicheng. -
Crimson robe (絳紗袍) from theGujin Tushu Jicheng. -
Fangxin quling (方心曲領) from theGujin Tushu Jicheng. -
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Jin dynasty tongtianguan seen on a segment of Wise and Benevolent Women-scroll painting by Gu Kaizhi (on the left; worn by King Wu of Chu). -
Northern Wei dynasty lacquer painting of Duke Ling of Wey wearing a tongtianguan. -
Portrait of Emperor Wu of Liang wearing a tongtianguan -
Tang dynasty tongtianguan as depicted on Wu Daozi's scroll-painting. -
Northern Yan golden cicada-patterned dang plaque ornament, used on headwear such as the tongtianguan.
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See also
- Hanfu
- List of Hanfu
References
- ^ )
- ^ )
- ^ )
- OCLC 885837660.
- ISBN 9787508502793.
- ^ a b c d e "宋代皇帝服饰：通天冠服 - 栖凤阁汉服网|最美中国风 尽在栖凤阁 Powered by Hishop". hanfudian.com. Retrieved 2021-12-21.
- ^ "120". Book of Later Han.
通天冠，高九寸，正竖，顶少邪却，乃直下为铁卷梁，前有山，展筒为述，乘舆所常服。
- ^ "25". Book of Jin.
"通天冠，本秦制。高九寸，正竖，顶少斜却，乃直下，铁为卷梁，前有展筒，冠前加金博山述，乘舆所常服也。 "
- ^ )