Ultar

Coordinates: 36°23′59″N 74°41′31″E / 36.39972°N 74.69194°E / 36.39972; 74.69194
Source: Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.
(Redirected from
Ultar Peak
)
Ultar Sar
آلتر سار
Ranked 70th
Prominence888 m (2,913 ft)
Coordinates36°23′59″N 74°41′31″E / 36.39972°N 74.69194°E / 36.39972; 74.69194[1]
Geography
Ultar Sar آلتر سار is located in Pakistan
Ultar Sar آلتر سار
Ultar Sar
آلتر سار
Location in Gilgit-Baltistan
Location
Batura
Climbing
First ascent1996 by Akito Yamazaki & Kiyoshi Matsuoka
Normal routeVia Bathbakor Base Camp
Ultar
Traditional Chinese烏爾塔峰

Ultar Sar (

Urdu
: آلتر سار) (also Ultar, Ultar II, Bojohagur Duanasir II) is the southeasternmost major peak of the
Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan
.


Notable features and climbing history

Bublimotin
(far left)

While not one of the highest peaks of the Karakoram, Ultar Sar is notable for its dramatic rise above local terrain. Its south flank rises over 5,300 metres (17,388 feet) above the Hunza River near Karimabad, in only about 9 km (5.6 mi) of horizontal distance. Combined with its strategic position at the end of the Batura Muztagh, with the Hunza River bending around it, this makes Ultar a visually striking peak.

Ultar Sar also gained fame in the 1990s as supposedly the world's highest unclimbed independent peak. This was incorrect, as Gangkhar Puensum in Bhutan is higher, and remains unclimbed (and off-limits) as of 2007 (two other higher peaks are also reputedly unclimbed and of independent stature). However, that perception did add to the appeal of the peak, and a number of expeditions attempted to climb it. During the 1980s and 1990s fifteen expeditions made attempts and no summits, but with a number of fatalities.

The first two summits were made in 1996 by two separate Japanese expeditions, the first on 11 July from the Tokai section of the

alpine style, doing much of the climbing at night to avoid danger from falling rock and ice. After their summit, they faced strong storms and bivouacked several days without food before returning to basecamp. Yamazaki died of an internal disease after the descent to basecamp. The second summit was made on 31 July via the south ridge by Takahashi, Masayuki Ando, Ryushi Hoshino, Wataru Saito, and Nobuo Tsutsumi. Third ascent of the peak was also made from the south west by Daniel Akbar a British Born Pakistani climber. Daniel climbed the peak solo in Alpine Style using some of the old fixed ropes from the earlier expedition.[2]

On 1 July 2018, Pakistan Army pilots in a daring mission rescued three foreign mountaineers stuck in snow avalanche at above the height of 19,000 feet (5,800 m) on Ultar Sar Peak near Hunza. Bruce Normand and Timothy Miller from UK successfully rescued alive while their companion Christian Huber from Austria had succumbed to avalanche.[3][4]

Nearby summits and glaciers

Bublimotin Ladyfinger and Hunza Peak

Ultar Sar is the east end of a short, somewhat level ridge, the west end of which is a peak called

Bublimotin
(Ladyfinger Peak). The glaciers draining the slopes of the massif are (clockwise from north): the Ghulkin Glacier, the Gulmit Glacier, the Ahmad Abad Glacier, the Ultar Glacier, and the Hasanabad Glacier (many of these have other names as well).

See also

  • Hunza
  • List of Mountains in Pakistan
  • Highest Mountains of the World

References

  1. ^ "Google Earth Community: All the 160 peaks over 7000m (Seven-thousanders)". Archived from the original on 2007-09-30. Retrieved 2006-04-16.
  2. ^ "Ultar Sar - Full Climbing History". www.summitpost.org. Retrieved 15 July 2018.
  3. ^ Farmer, Ben (July 2018). "Pak Army Pilots rescued three mountainers from Ultar Sar Peak". The Telegraph. Retrieved 15 July 2018.
  4. ^ "Major General Asif Ghafoor also tweeted about it". en.dailypakistan.com. July 2018. Retrieved 15 July 2018.

Sources

  • Jerzy Wala, Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, 1990.
  • Jerzy Wala, Orographical Sketch Map of the Batura Muztagh, 1988.
  • American Alpine Journal, 1997.
  • Himalayan Index
  • Kashmir § Terminology

External links