Balenciaga
Parent Kering | | |
Website | balenciaga |
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Balenciaga SA (.
History
Founding to 1980
Cristóbal Balenciaga opened his first boutique in San Sebastián, Spain, in 1919, and expanded to include branches in Madrid and Barcelona.[3] The Spanish royal family and aristocracy wore his designs. When the Spanish Civil War forced him to close his stores, he moved to Paris.[3][4]
Balenciaga opened his Paris couture house on Avenue George V in August 1937, where his first fashion show featured designs heavily influenced by the Spanish Renaissance.[3] His success was nearly immediate. In two years, the press lauded him as a revolutionary, and his designs were highly sought-after.[3] Carmel Snow, the editor of Harper's Bazaar, was an early champion of his designs.[5]
Customers risked their safety traveling to Europe during World War II to see Balenciaga's clothing.[3] During this period, he was noted for his "square coat", with sleeves cut in a single piece with the yoke, and for his designs with black (or black and brown) lace over bright pink fabric.[3] Historians believe that Balenciaga's continued activity during the Nazi occupation of Paris was made possible by his connections with Spanish dictator General Francisco Franco who was Adolf Hitler's close ally.[6] The relation to Franco was so close that Balenciaga designed clothing for the Franco family.[7] The company was one of only 60 allowed to operate during the occupation, and the ongoing supply of raw materials from Spain, which were in short supply in Paris due to the war, gave Balenciaga a competitive advantage. However, he testified that he refused Hitler's request to transfer his company's activities to Berlin.[8][9]
During the post-war years, his lines became more linear and sleek, diverging from the hourglass shape popularized by "
In the 1960s, Balenciaga tended toward heavy fabrics, intricate embroidery, and bold materials.
Protégés
Several designers who worked for Balenciaga would go on to open their own successful couture houses, notably
Battle against the press
In 1957, Balenciaga famously decided to show his collection to the fashion press the day before the clothing retail delivery date, not the standard four weeks before the retail delivery date the fashion industry followed at the time. By keeping the press unaware of the design of his garments until the day before they were shipped to stores, he hoped to curtail ongoing piracy and copying of his designs. The press resisted, finding it nearly impossible to get his work into their print deadlines, but Balenciaga and protégé Givenchy stood firm, seriously impacting their coverage and press of the era. His supporters would argue that rival Christian Dior would gain acclaim from copying Balenciaga's silhouettes and cuts, claiming them as his own original work; because Balenciaga was not interested in press coverage, the media, and consumers never knew.
In 1967, both designers reversed their decision and joined the traditional schedule.
Battle against the Chambre
Balenciaga defiantly resisted the rules, guidelines, and
Cristóbal Balenciaga closed his fashion house in 1968 and died in 1972. The house lay dormant until 1986.[3]
1981 to 2010
Balenciaga is now owned by Kering and its womenswear and menswear was headed by Nicolas Ghesquière.[11]
In 2002, Balenciaga's star, Nicolas Ghesquière, imitated the work of Kaisik Wong, a designer from San Francisco. Ghesquiere created a patchwork vest in his spring collection that resembled one that Wong designed in 1973. Ghesquière admitted in an interview in Paris that he had copied the garment.[12]
Ghesquière's F/W 2005 line showed that the house was not only making money, but also attracted a number of celebrity customers including editor-in-chief at Vogue, Anna Wintour.[citation needed]
The House of Balenciaga designed the dresses worn by Jennifer Connelly and Nicole Kidman to the 2006 Academy Awards, as well as the wedding gown Kidman wore when she married Keith Urban.[13] Kylie Minogue also wore a Balenciaga dress for her "Slow" and "Red Blooded Woman" music videos and for her concert tour.[14]
Balenciaga's Fall/Winter 2007 show impressed Teen Vogue editor-in-chief Amy Astley so much that an entire spread in the magazine, titled "Global Studies" and shot in Beijing, was influenced by it. The line included skinny jodhpurs, tight, fitted blazers, beaded embellished scarves, and other multicultural mixes.[citation needed]
Balenciaga is known for creating avant-garde, advanced structural pieces, straddling the edge of fashion and forecasting the future of women's ready-to-wear fashion. Vintage Balenciaga garments are popular among fashion editors, Hollywood stars, and models, and have been seen on
2010 to present
In March 2011 at
In June 2011, the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum opened in Getaria, Spain.[21]
In November 2012, Balenciaga announced that it was parting with creative director Nicolas Ghesquière, ending his 15-year tenure.[22][23] The brand announced Alexander Wang as its new creative director.[23][24] Wang presented his first collection for the label on 28 February 2013, at Paris Fashion Week. In 2014, the Tribunal de grande instance de Paris set a trial date for the lawsuit between Balenciaga vs. Ghesquière.[25] Balenciaga claimed that Ghesquière's comments in the magazine System had hurt the company's image.[26] The highly publicized suit was mediated out of court.
In July 2015, Balenciaga announced it was parting with creative director
In 2018, Balenciaga was the subject of a social media backlash in China when personnel at one of Balenciaga's Paris stores assaulted a Chinese tourist.[29]: 218
In, April 2021 Gvasalia presented his new Pre-Fall 2021 collection, as promoted by Vanity Teen magazine.[30] In August 2021, Justin Bieber was announced as the new face of Balenciaga.[31] In September 2021, the brand faced backlash when it released trompe-l'œil sweatpants with the illusion of plaid boxers sticking out the top with a price tag of $1,190.[32] In May 2022, Balenciaga announced that it accepts crypto payments.[33][34]
In October 2022 Balenciaga announced that it was severing its ties to Kanye West due to his anti-semitic comments.[35]
Brand Ambassadors
In July 2023, Balenciaga announced its first-ever brand ambassadors, Isabelle Huppert and PP Krit Amnuaydechkorn. This is the first time in history, Balenciaga has announced a brand ambassador [36][37][38]
In November 2023, Balenciaga appointed Michelle Yeoh as its brand ambassador.[39]
In December 2023, Balenciaga introduced its new brand ambassador, Nicole Kidman.[40][41][42]
In January 2024, Kim Kardashian became the brand ambassador of Balenciaga.[43][44][45][46]
Support for Ukraine
In March 2022 during
Child advertising controversy
In November 2022, an advertising campaign posted on Balenciaga's Instagram account featured children holding teddy bears, which were dressed in bondage and BDSM gear.[49] Following heavy criticism, Balenciaga later apologized and removed all posts connected to the photo campaign. Meanwhile, the photographer, Gabriele Galimberti, said that both the children and the objects which appeared in the photos were all selected by Balenciaga.[49][50][51] Hours later, Balenciaga apologized for a separate, earlier advertisement, in which a $3,000 Balenciaga handbag sits amongst papers which include the text from a Supreme Court opinion in the Ashcroft v. Free Speech Coalition, which was a child pornography case.[52][49] Balenciaga announced that it was taking legal action in pursuit of $25 million against the production company North Six and set designer Nicholas Des Jardins, claiming they were responsible for the advertisement with the child pornography court document. In response, the set designer's attorney said that Balenciaga representatives were present at the shoot, and handled the papers and props used.[53][54] Balenciaga dropped their legal action on 2 December.[55]
In another image, featuring the actress, Isabelle Huppert, two art books can be seen in the background: one is based on The Cremaster Cycle (1994–2002) by the filmmaker Matthew Barney and one is As Sweet as It Gets (2014) by the Belgian painter Michaël Borremans. Some Twitter users tried to connect imagery from Barney's and Borremans' works to the court document, and based on this suggested there was a hidden message about child abuse in Balenciaga's marketing material.[56]
Carl W Jones from the School of Media and Communication at the University of Westminster described the campaign as an attempt of shockvertising.[57] Balenciaga brand-ambassador Kim Kardashian, who initially said nothing in public about the scandal, started selling her Balenciaga clothing and shoes.[58]
In popular culture
In the 1997 film For Richer or Poorer, Tim Allen's character accidentally sets a Balenciaga dress on fire. He tries laughing at it, rhetorically asking, "What the hell's a Balenciaga?"
On January 29, 2014, the character Myrtle Snow cries "Balenciaga!" as her dying words on the season finale of FX television show American Horror Story: Coven.[59][60]
Film director Paul Thomas Anderson was inspired to make Phantom Thread when he became interested in the fashion industry after reading about designer Cristóbal Balenciaga.[61]
Balenciaga collaborated with The Simpsons to create a short film for Paris Fashion Week in 2021.[62]
In 2022, American rapper and pop singer Lizzo referenced Balenciaga in her number one hit “About Damn Time,” singing “Feeling fussy, walkin' in my Balenci-ussies".
In 2022, singer Beyoncé released Renaissance. Her song "Break My Soul The Queen’s Remix" tracked with Madonna’s “Vogue” references “House of Balenciaga”.[63]
Balenciaga is referred to in the opening scene of Triangle of Sadness (Ruben Östlund, 2022), where a reporter tells models to "look Balenciaga", that is, to have a look of contempt.
Creative directors
- Cristóbal Balenciaga – 1919 to 1968
- Michel Goma – 1987 to 1992
- Josephus Thimister – 1992 to 1997
- Nicolas Ghesquière – 1997 to 2012
- Alexander Wang – 2013 to 2015[64][65]
- Demna Gvasalia – 2015 to present[66]
References
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- ^ "What is the State of Luxury's Hundred Million Dollar Licensing Deals?". The Fashion Law. May 10, 2018. Retrieved September 3, 2022.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l Charleston, Beth Duncuff (October 2004). "Cristobal Balenciaga (1895-1972)". Timeline of Art History. Metropolitan Museum of Art. Archived from the original on January 27, 2007. Retrieved March 11, 2007.
- ^ "Cristóbal Balenciaga". Victoria & Albert Museum. Archived from the original on November 23, 2007. Retrieved March 11, 2007.
- ISBN 0743480457.
- ^ Peter, Popham (March 6, 2011). "Fashion and Fascism: A Love Story". The Independent. Archived from the original on February 25, 2021. Retrieved October 8, 2021.
- ^ "In Which Cristobal Balenciaga and Christian Dior Bring A New Dawn - Home - This Recording". thisrecording.com. Retrieved October 29, 2022.
- ^ "5 Famous Fashion Designers Ties To The Nazis". The Fashion Spot. May 1, 2014. Archived from the original on May 9, 2014. Retrieved October 8, 2021.
- ^ Paul, Johnson (January 19, 2011). "Cut Against The Bias". This Recording. Archived from the original on January 28, 2011. Retrieved October 8, 2021.
- ^ Brown, Barbara Pascarell (2012). Pretty in pink: Jacqueline Kennedy and the politics of fashion. New York: UMI. p. 33. Retrieved October 12, 2021.
- ^ Menkes, Suzy (November 20, 2001). "Nicolas Ghesquiere, a Creative Young Spirit in the Master Class, Balenciaga: Reviving and Revering". International Herald Tribune. Archived from the original on January 29, 2007. Retrieved March 11, 2007.
- ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved April 5, 2020.
- ^ "Kidman and Urban: happy marriage or misalliance?". English pravda.ru. July 25, 2006.
- ^ "Barco – Barco MiPIX and LED displays chosen for exclusive Kylie concert". barco.com. Archived from the original on October 15, 2006.
- ^ "Celebrity Dress". Thecelebritydress.com. Retrieved March 25, 2011.
- ^ "Raquel Zimmerman in vintage Balenciaga". slide.com. Archived from the original on September 27, 2011. Retrieved March 25, 2011.
- ^ Zarrella, Katherine (October 2010). "The Hot and the Haute". Style.com. Retrieved March 25, 2011.
- ^ Zinko, Corolyne (November 1, 2010). "Tatiana Sorokko's Extending the Runway". San Francisco Chronicle. Archived from the original on November 4, 2010. Retrieved November 1, 2010.
- ^ "Look of the Day". InStyle. July 27, 2007. Archived from the original on March 11, 2012. Retrieved March 24, 2011.
- ^ a b "A Spanish Night for Balenciaga in San Francisco". Women's Wear Daily. March 25, 2011. Retrieved March 27, 2011.
- ^ "Home Page". Cristóbal Balenciaga Museoa. Retrieved April 28, 2022.
- ^ "Nicolas Ghesquière to Leave Balenciaga". The New York Times. November 5, 2012. Retrieved November 5, 2012.
- ^ a b "Balenciaga RTW Fall 2014". WWD. February 27, 2014. Retrieved February 27, 2014.
- ^ Lindsey Schickner. "Alexander Wang Will Helm Balenciaga And His Own Label". Archived from the original on September 20, 2020. Retrieved December 5, 2012.
- ^ Socha, Miles (February 4, 2014). "Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière Trial Date Set". WWD. Retrieved February 5, 2014.
- ^ "BALENCIAGA VS NICOLAS GHESQUIERE CASE TO BE SETTLED OUT OF COURT". Fashionista.com. August 27, 2014. Retrieved June 21, 2016.
- ^ "Balenciaga Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show". Vogue. October 2, 2015. Retrieved October 7, 2015.
- ^ Singer, Maya (October 6, 2015). "Vetements's Demna Gvasalia Is Balenciaga's New Artistic Director". Archived from the original on December 24, 2016. Retrieved October 7, 2015.
- ISBN 978-1-5179-0031-1.
- ^ Colección Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2021 April 19, 2021. Vanity Teen.
- ^ "Bieber for Balenciaga". Office Magazine. August 3, 2021. Retrieved August 9, 2021.
- ^ Yancey-Bragg, N'dea (September 13, 2021). "Fashion designer Balenciaga accused of cultural appropriation over $1,190 sweatpants". USA TODAY. Retrieved September 14, 2021.
- ^ "After Gucci, TAG Heuer, French fashion major Balenciaga will also accept crypto payments". MSN.
- ^ Conti, Samantha; Chikhoune, Ryma; Nordstrom, Leigh (May 22, 2022). "Balenciaga Takes Crypto, the Rich's Charities". Yahoo! Finance.
- ^ Hart, Jordan (October 22, 2022). "Kanye West refuses to be canceled despite Vogue and Balenciaga being the latest among these fashion companies to sever ties". Business Insiderl. Retrieved October 22, 2022.
- ^ Templeton, Lily (July 31, 2023). "Balenciaga Taps Isabelle Huppert, PP Krit Amnuaydechkorn as First Brand Ambassadors". WWD.
- ^ "PP Krit & Isabelle Huppert Are Named As Balenciaga's First Brand Ambassadors".
- ^ "Balenciaga Brand Ambassadors". www.balenciaga.com.
- ^ "Balenciaga names Michelle Yeoh as new global brand ambassador". Inside Retail. November 13, 2023. Retrieved November 13, 2023.
- ^ "Nicole Kidman is the new luxury ambassador for Balenciaga". Fashion United. December 4, 2023. Retrieved December 17, 2023.
- ^ "Balenciaga Names Nicole Kidman as New Brand Ambassador". L'Officiel USA. Retrieved December 17, 2023.
- ^ "Nicole Kidman Is 'Excited' to Be Balenciaga's Newest Brand Ambassador". People. Retrieved December 17, 2023.
- ^ "Kim Kardashian Is Officially a Balenciaga Brand Ambassador". Hypebeast. January 22, 2024. Retrieved January 24, 2024.
- ^ "Kim Kardashian Is Officially a Balenciaga Ambassador". WWD. January 22, 2024. Retrieved January 24, 2024.
- ^ "Kim Kardashian 'excited' to be Balenciaga's brand ambassador". The Nation. January 24, 2024. Retrieved January 24, 2024.
- ^ "Kim Kardashian reunites with Balenciaga as new brand ambassador". USA Today. Retrieved January 24, 2024.
- ^ "Balenciaga supports Ukraine at Paris Fashion Week". The National. March 7, 2022. Retrieved March 9, 2022.
- ^ "How the fashion industry is reacting to the crisis in Ukraine". Harper's BAZAAR. March 4, 2022. Retrieved March 10, 2022.
- ^ a b c Paton, Elizabeth; Friedman, Vanessa; Testa, Jessica (December 2, 2022). "What to Know About Balenciaga's Campaign Controversy". New York Times. Retrieved December 3, 2022.
- ^ "Balenciaga Apologizes for Controversial Kid's Campaign". Paper. November 22, 2022. Retrieved November 22, 2022.
- ^ Herlihy, Brianna (November 22, 2022). "Balenciaga sparks outrage over 'depraved' ad campaign with toddlers, teddy bears in bondage". Fox News.
- ^ Kolirin, Lianne (November 23, 2022). "Balenciaga apologizes for adverts featuring children holding bondage bears". CNN. Retrieved November 24, 2022.
- ^ Kavilanz, Parija; Kolirin, Lianne; Owoseje, Toyin (November 29, 2022). "Balenciaga suing production company for $25 million over controversial campaign". CNN. Retrieved November 29, 2022.
- ^ Paúl, María Luisa (November 28, 2022). "After teddy bear backlash, Balenciaga announces lawsuit for separate ad". The Washington Post. Retrieved November 28, 2022.
- ^ "Balenciaga drops lawsuit, Demna apologises amid campaign controversy". Vogue. December 2, 2022. Retrieved December 3, 2022.
- ^ Dafoe, Taylor (November 30, 2022). "How Artists Matthew Barney and Michaël Borremans Found Themselves Swept Up in Controversy Over a Balenciaga Ad Campaign". Artnet. Retrieved December 1, 2022.
- ^ Jones, Carl W. "Balenciaga's controversial new campaign and the long history of 'shockvertising'". The Conversation. Retrieved December 7, 2022.
- ^ "Kim Kardashian sells discounted Balenciaga items after teddy bear scandal". The Independent. January 12, 2023. Retrieved January 13, 2023.
- ^ Scharf, Lindzi (February 3, 2014). "American Horror Story: Coven: Myrtle Snow wasn't wearing Balenciaga". Entertainment Weekly.
- ^ Woerner, Meredith (January 30, 2014). "American Horror Story had NO CLUE how to end this season". io9.
- ^ Sullivan, Kevin P. (November 2, 2017). "Paul Thomas Anderson opens up about Phantom Thread for the first time". Entertainment Weekly. Time. Retrieved November 3, 2017.
- ^ "D'oh! couture: Balenciaga puts The Simpsons on Paris catwalk". the Guardian. October 3, 2021. Retrieved December 12, 2022.
- ^ "Lizzo - About Damn Time lyrics". Genius.com. Retrieved January 10, 2023.
- ^ "Alexander Wang quitte la maison Balenciaga". Vogue. July 31, 2015. Retrieved November 27, 2023.
- ^ "Balenciaga Fall 2013 Ready-to-Wear". Vogue. February 28, 2013. Retrieved November 27, 2023.
- ^ "Demna Gvasalia, le pari branché et osé de Balenciaga". Le Monde.fr. October 7, 2015. Retrieved November 27, 2023.
External links
- Official website
- Paris Fashion Show 2007: Balenciaga Catwalk Archived October 17, 2007, at the Wayback Machine
- The Cristobal Balenciaga Museum in Getaria, Spain
- Professor Aiko Beall of Otis College of Art and Design on Balenciaga
- Balenciaga – brand and company profile at Fashion Model Directory