Gasherbrum I

Coordinates: 35°43′28″N 76°41′47″E / 35.72444°N 76.69639°E / 35.72444; 76.69639
Source: Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.
"Hidden Peak" redirects here. For the 11,000 feet (3,353 m) peak in the United States, see Snowbird, Utah.
Gasherbrum I
Hidden Peak
Ranked 11th
Prominence2,155 m (7,070 ft)[1]
Isolation24 km (15 mi) Edit this on Wikidata
Listing
Gilgit–Baltistan and Xinjiang
Gasherbrum I is located in Gilgit Baltistan
Gasherbrum I
Gasherbrum I
Gasherbrum I (Gilgit Baltistan)
Parent rangeKarakoram
Climbing
First ascent
  • 5 July 1958 by an American team including two Pakistan army officers
  • First winter ascent 9 March 2012
    Adam Bielecki and Janusz Gołąb
Easiest routesnow/ice climb
Map

Gasherbrum I (

Himalaya. Gasherbrum is often claimed to mean "Shining Wall", presumably a reference to the highly visible face of the neighboring peak Gasherbrum IV; but in fact, it comes from "rgasha" (beautiful) + "brum" (mountain) in Balti
, hence it actually means "beautiful mountain."

Gasherbrum I was designated K5 (meaning the 5th peak of the

William Martin Conway
provided the alternate name, Hidden Peak, in reference to its extreme remoteness.

Gasherbrum I was first climbed on July 5, 1958, by Pete Schoening and Andy Kauffman of an eight-man American expedition led by Nicholas B. Clinch, Richard K. Irvin, Tom Nevison, Tom McCormack, Bob Swift and Gil Roberts were also members of the team.[3]: 210–212 

Timeline

  • 1934 - A large international expedition, organized by the Swiss
    G.O. Dyhrenfurth, explores Gasherbrum I and II. Two climbers get to 6,300 m (20,670 ft).[4]
  • 1936 - A French expedition gets to 6,900 m (22,640 ft).
  • 1958 - An American team led by Nicholas Clinch including two Pakistani army officers captain Mohammad Akram and captain S.T.H Rizvi makes the first ascent, via Roch ridge.[3]: 208 
  • 1975 -
    alpine style (first time on an 8000-metre peak) taking three days total.[3]: 212  One day later, a team of three led by Austrian Hanns Schell reached the summit on the American route.[3]
    : 213 
  • 1977 - The fourth successful ascent by two Slovenians (Nejc Zaplotnik and Andrej Stremfelj), again on a new route. Team member Drago Bregar died.[3]: 213 
  • 1980 - Frenchmen Maurice Barrard and Georges Narbaud[3]: 213  are successful with the fifth ascent and pass the South Ridge for the first time.[4]
  • 1981 - A Japanese team follows the Clinch route with fixed ropes for the sixth successful ascent.[3]: 214 [4]
  • 1982 - Michael Dacher, Siegfried Hupfauer and Günter Sturm of a German expedition summit via a new route on the north face. In the same year, French Marie-José Vallençant is the first woman who reaches the summit. Her husband, Sylvain Saudan from Switzerland, performs the first ski descent from the top of an 8000-metre peak to base camp.
  • 1983 - Jerzy Kukuczka with Wojciech Kurtyka, new route. Alpine style ascent without the aid of oxygen.
  • 1983 - Teams from Switzerland and Spain are successful.
  • 1984 - Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander traverse Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum I without returning to base camp in between
  • 1985 - Solo ascent by Benoît Chamoux. On July 14, the Italian Giampiero Di Federico (solo ascent) opens a new route on the north-west face.[5]
  • 1997 - Magnus Rydén and Johan Åkerström reach the summit.
  • 2003 - 19 people reach the summit, 4 deaths, including Mohammad Oraz.[6]
  • 2012 - March 9,
    Adam Bielecki and Janusz Gołąb (Poland) made the first winter ascent. The ascent was made without the aid of supplementary oxygen.[7] The same day, three climbers from a different expedition — Austrian Gerfried Göschl, Swiss Cedric Hählen and Pakistani Nisar Hussain Sadpara — went missing, never to be found again. They were trying to ascend via a new route and are considered to have been blown off by strong winds.[8]
  • 2013 - 7 July, Artur Hajzer died after falling in the Japanese Couloir after an attempt to reach the summit.[9]
  • 2013 - 21 July, Spaniards Abel Alonso, Xebi Gomez and Álvaro Paredes climbed to the top to then disappear while descending after a storm.[10]
  • 2017 - 30 July, in an alpine style six-day ascent without supplementary oxygen, Czechs Marek 'Mára' Holeček and Zdeněk Hák established a new route named Satisfaction! (in memory of Zdeněk Hrubý) up the Southwest Face.[11]

See also

Bibliography

  • Carter, H. Adams (1975). "Balti Place Names in the Karakoram". American Alpine Journal. 49: 53.
  • Clinch, Nicholas (December 1982). A Walk in the Sky: Climbing Hidden Peak. Seattle, WA, USA: The Mountaineers.
    ISBN 0-89886-042-3
    .
  • Fanshawe, Andy; Venables, Stephen (March 1996). Himalaya alpine-style: the most challenging routes on the highest peaks. Seattle, WA, USA: Mountaineers Books.
    ISBN 0-34064-931-3
    .

Notes and references

  1. ^ a b "Gasherbrum I". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2014-08-24.
  2. ^ "Trekking Routes - Highest peaks". cknp.org. Archived from the original on 2019-10-09. Retrieved 2014-08-24.
  3. ^
    ISBN 0898860423
    .
  4. ^ a b c "Gasherbrum I: Some background and History". k2news.com. Retrieved 2014-01-04.
  5. ^ Fanshawe & Venables "Himalaya alpine-style"
  6. ^ "Everest Summiter Mohammad Oraz death/Iranian expedition". k2news.com. September 2003. Retrieved 2014-01-04.
  7. ^ "Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering 2010-2015". Polishwinterhimalaism.pl. March 9, 2012. Archived from the original on July 8, 2012. Retrieved 2012-08-17.
  8. ^ "Three missing mountaineers feared dead, rescue mission called off". dawn.com. March 15, 2012. Retrieved 2012-03-15.
  9. ^ Crothers, David (16 July 2013). "Iconic Polish Climber Artur Hajzer Dies on Gasherbrum I". Retrieved 25 July 2018.
  10. ^ "Se da por desaparecidos a Xevi Góméz, Álvaro Paredes y Abel Alonso en el G1". 26 July 2013. Retrieved 25 July 2018.
  11. ^ "Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák". Planet Mountain. 11 August 2017. Retrieved 1 May 2018.

External links


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