Shauna Coxsey
Personal information | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Born | Runcorn, Cheshire, England | 27 January 1993|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Height | 164 cm (5 ft 5 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Weight | 58 kg (128 lb)[1] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Spouse |
Ned Feehally (m. 2021) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climbing career | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Type of climber | Bouldering | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Ape index | +8.5 cm (3 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Highest grade |
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Retired | 2021 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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Updated on 13 August 2019. |
Shauna Coxsey
Early life
Coxsey was born on 27 January 1993 in Runcorn, Cheshire. She began climbing in 1997 at age four, inspired by a television broadcast of Catherine Destivelle climbing in Mali.[8][9]
Career
Coxsey was mainly active in
Bouldering World Championships in Munich.[15] The same year, she became the third woman ever to boulder 8B+ (V14) when she topped New Baseline in Magic Wood near the Swiss town of Chur.[16] In 2015, she won the British Bouldering Championships in Sheffield and took first place at the Bouldering World Cup in Munich.[10][17][18][19]
Coxsey was appointed
Aleksandra Miroslaw. Additionally, by reaching the finals of the combined event, she secured a qualification spot for Tokyo's 2020 Summer Olympics, the first to include competitive climbing.[23] When the Olympics was finally in 2021, she was recovering from a back injury, surgical treatment and rehabilitation. She came 10th in the competition. She planned to discontinue competitive climbing after the Olympics, but to continue as an elite-level rock climber.[24]
In 2022 she continued climbing on indoor climbing walls while pregnant with her first child. She worked with a specialist physiotherapist, and her husband who is also a climber, to assess the routes as her shape changed.[24]
Rankings
World Cup[3]
Discipline | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | 30 | - | - | - |
Bouldering | 38 | 19 | 3 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 9 | 10 | 61 |
Speed | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
Combined | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | 3 | - | - | - |
World Championships
Youth[11]
Discipline | 2008 Youth B |
2009 Youth A |
---|---|---|
Lead | 9 | 19 |
Adult[11]
Discipline | 2011 | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 | 2018 | 2019 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Bouldering | 16 | - | 4 | - | - | 3 |
Lead | - | - | - | - | - | 17 |
Speed | - | - | - | - | - | 41 |
Combined | - | - | - | - | - | 3 |
World Cup podiums
Bouldering[11]
Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2012 | 3 | 3 | ||
2013 | 1 | 2 | 3 | |
2014 | 2 | 3 | 1 | 6 |
2015 | 1 | 3 | 4 | |
2016 | 4 | 2 | 6 | |
2017 | 4 | 2 | 6 | |
2018 | 0 | |||
2019 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
Total | 11 | 12 | 7 | 30 |
Outdoor bouldering
Coxsey is the first British woman to climb the V12, V13, and V14 grades.
V14 (8B+):
- New Base Line – Magic Wood (SWI) – 12 July 2014 – First female ascent of Bernd Zangerl's Boulder (2002)[25]
V13 (8B):
- Ropes of Maui – Dinas Mot (GBR) – 5 April 2016 – First female ascent (first ascent by Pete Robins, 2014)[26]
- One Summer in Paradise – Magic Wood (SWI) – 3 July 2014 – Second female ascent (first ascent by Martin Keller, 2005)[27]
- Zarzaparrilla –
- Nuthin But Sunshine – Lower Chaos (Rocky Mountain National Park, USA) – 26 June 2013 – First female ascent (first ascent by Dave Graham, 2000)[29]
See also
- List of grade milestones in rock climbing
- History of rock climbing
- Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals
References
- ^ "Shauna Coxsey". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Archived from the original on 17 November 2017.
- ^ "Tokyo 2020 Olympics: British climber Shauna Coxsey confirms bid to compete at Games". BBC Sport. 8 October 2017. Retrieved 8 October 2017.
- ^ a b c IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
- ^ Coxsey, Shauna; Fiell, Clem; Kenny, Stuart (7 December 2018). "I Never Leave Without... My Pillow from Home | Shauna Coxsey, Professional Climber". Amuse. Retrieved 6 August 2019.
- ^ "Shauna Coxsey Retiring from Comps after Olympics". Gripped Magazine. 14 June 2021. Retrieved 26 August 2021.
- ^ "Shauna Coxsey Retirement".
- ^ "Shauna Coxsey retires after failing to qualify for Olympic final". Runcorn and Widnes World. Retrieved 26 August 2021.
- ^ Coxsey, Shauna (10 April 2017). "The Paywall". Shauna Coxsey's blog. Archived from the original on 5 January 2018.
- ^ a b Anderson, Maria. "Podium Dreams: Two-Time Bouldering World Champ Shauna Coxsey Guns for the Olympics". Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 6 August 2019.
- ^ a b c d e "Shauna Coxsey". Red Bull. Retrieved 6 August 2019.
- ^ a b c d e f IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "Coxsey's profile and rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
- ^ Chris Parker (27 June 2013). "Shauna Coxsey Cranks First Female Ascent of Nuthin' But Sunshine – V13". rockandice.com. Retrieved 27 June 2013.
- ^ "Inspirational climbers become BMC Ambassadors". thebmc.co.uk.
- ^ "Shauna Coxsey Runner-up in IFSC Climbing World Cup". ifsc-climbing.org.
- ^ "Results of the IFSC World Championships Munich 2014 – Boulder". ifsc-climbing.org.
- ^ "Shauna Coxsey sets a New Baseline for Britain". thebmc.co.uk.
- ^ "Landman and Coxsey crowned new British bouldering champions". The British Mountaineering Council. Archived from the original on 10 August 2019.
- ^ "BMC British Bouldering Championships - results" (PDF). The British Mountaineering Council. Archived from the original (PDF) on 10 August 2019.
- ^ "2015 Munich Bouldering World Cup – Results". OnBouldering.com. Archived from the original on 10 August 2019.
- ^ "No. 61608". The London Gazette (Supplement). 11 June 2016. p. B17.
- ^ The Queen's Birthday Honours 2016, Cabinet Office, 10 June 2016, retrieved 10 June 2016
- ^ McCracken, Steven (26 September 2016). "Ondra Retains Crown at 2016 Paris World Championships". Vertical Gear.
- ^ Dream week for Shauna Coxsey: two bronze medals and Olympic quota place, The British Mountaineering Council, 20 August 2019
- ^ a b "'I'm a pregnant woman making choices': Shauna Coxsey on climbing – and the 'bullies' who want her to stop". the Guardian. 18 May 2022. Retrieved 18 May 2022.
- ^ "Shauna Coxsey climbs New Base Line, third female V14 ever". OnBouldering.com. 12 July 2014. Retrieved 2 May 2016.
- ^ "Shauna Coxsey climbs Ropes of Maui". OnBouldering.com. 7 April 2016. Retrieved 2 May 2016.
- ^ "One Summer in Paradise, another 8B for Coxsey". OnBouldering.com. 4 July 2014. Retrieved 2 May 2016.
- ^ Duncan Campbell (April 2014). "Shauna Coxsey Climbs 2nd 8B". UKClimbing.com. Retrieved 2 May 2016.
- ^ Björn Pohl (June 2013). "VIDEO: Shauna Coxsey climbs Nuthin' but sunshine, 8B". UKClimbing.com. Retrieved 2 May 2016.
External links
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Shauna Coxsey.
- Red Bull profile
- Shauna Coxsey at Olympics.com
- Shauna Coxsey at Olympedia
- Shauna Coxsey on Instagram