Siula Grande
Siula Grande | |
---|---|
Highest point | |
Elevation | 6,344 m (20,814 ft) |
Listing | Mountains in Peru |
Coordinates | 10°17′S 76°53′W / 10.283°S 76.883°W |
Geography | |
Huayhuash | |
Climbing | |
First ascent | August 1, 1936[1] |
Easiest route | glacier/snow/ice climb |
Siula Grande is a
Touching the Void ascent
In 1985, Siula Grande was climbed by
Simpson and Yates's ascent was described in Simpson's book Touching the Void. The book was made into a film of the same title in 2003 and a play in 2018.
First ascents list
This is a partial list of first ascents by new routes made.
- 28 July 1936 North Ridge by Arnold Awerzger and Erwin Schneider from Austria.[3][4]
- 21 June 1966 fourth ascent, by Obster, Schulz and Manfred Sturm via the North ridge en route to Siula Chico[5]
- 1983 West Face to North ridge, after retreating from the direct West face due to rockfall hazard. 2 bivies. David Fish Fulton and Scott Flavelle
- 1985 West Face by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates[4]
- 16 June 1999 Avoiding the Touch by Mark Price and Carlos Buhler.[4] Their route followed the Yates/Simpson ascent until approximately the middle of the face, at which point they climbed a narrow, technical gully above the initial ice face and then surmounted a short wall up and left into the ice gully that led directly to the main summit (total of 24 pitches).
- 13 July 2001 "Southern Discomfort", south face by Michel van der Spek, Jay Burbee, and Jeremy Frimer
- 17 July 2001 Noches de "Juerga", west face[4]
- 3 July 2002 Northeast Face, Los Rapidos by Slovenes Marjan Kovač and Pavle Kozjek[6][7]
Siula Chico
Siula Chico is a subpeak about 6,260 m (20,540 ft) high separated from Siula Grande by an approximately 6,000-metre (20,000 ft) col. Mountaineers considered that the easiest route to its summit was via Siula Grande's summit and it was so climbed by Manfred Sturm's 1966 expedition.[8] Spanish alpinists Jordi Corominas and Oriol Baro made the first ascent of Chico's west face, and second ascent of the peak, in May 2007.[2]
Glaciers
According to some researchers the glaciers between Siula Grande and
References
- ^ "Siula Grande". Peakware.com. Archived from the original on 2016-03-04. Retrieved 2014-07-22.
- ^ a b Lambert 2007.
- ^ Sturm 1967, p. 322.
- ^ a b c d "Title unknown". American Alpine Journal: 305. 2002.
- ^ Sturm 1967, p. 325.
- ^ Kojzek, Pavle (1 December 2002). "Siula Grande". alpinist.com. Retrieved 2007-12-01.
- ^ "Nueva ruta en la pared noreste del Siula Grande" (in Spanish). Vertimania. 2002. Archived from the original on September 28, 2007. Retrieved 2007-12-01.
- ^ Sturm 1967, p. 324.
- ^ Sergiujiduc.com. "Landscape Changes in the Andes – Peru". Retrieved January 16, 2016.
Further reading
- Sturm, Manfred (1967). The Road to Siula Chico (PDF). Translated by Carter, H. Adams. Deutscher Alpenverein.* "Peru" (PDF). American Alpine Journal. 2002. Archived from the original (PDF) on October 31, 2008. Retrieved 2007-12-01.
- Lambert, Erik (11 July 2007). "First Ascent of Siula Chico's West Face". alpinist.com. Archived from the original on 4 September 2008. Retrieved 2007-12-01.