St. Lawrence (restaurant)
St. Lawrence is a French-Canadian restaurant in the Japantown neighbourhood of Vancouver, British Columbia. It opened in June 2017. Located on the ground floor of a heritage building at 269 Powell St, originally a Japanese general store, St. Lawrence serves a blend of traditional Québécois dishes and French haute cuisine. Executive chef and owner J.C. Poirier began developing the concept for St. Lawrence in 2013, and sought with both the menu and the décor to replicate the feeling of being inside a rural French home and eating a country-style meal. The interior, which features a blue and green colour scheme and numerous keepsakes and photographs, was developed by Vancouver-based studio Ste. Marie.
The menu at St. Lawrence is primarily concentrated on rich, hearty fare served in large portions, running counter to the predominant stereotype of Vancouver cuisine as light and health-focused. Lesser-known dishes and uncommon cuts of meat like sweetbreads are featured in order to showcase Quebecois cuisine beyond its most famous dish, poutine. The plating style is deliberately basic, and presentation of many dishes incorporates playful touches inspired by the culture of Quebec, such as the tourtière, served with a miniature flag of the Montreal Canadiens hockey team, a Quebecois cultural icon.
St. Lawrence has been a critical success since it opened. It has been highly-ranked on several Canadian "best restaurant" lists, and was awarded one
Description and development
St. Lawrence is located on the ground floor of a heritage building at 269 Powell St, in the Japantown neighbourhood of Vancouver, British Columbia.[1] The restaurant, which seats 44, including the six seats at the bar, serves French-Canadian cuisine.[2] It opened in June 2017.[3] The staff are primarily French speakers from Quebec or France.[1][4][5]
Executive chef and owner J.C. Poirier, formerly of
Design
The restaurant was designed by Craig Straghetta's Vancouver-based studio Ste. Marie, which designed Poirier's earlier restaurant Ask For Luigi, as well as other Vancouver restaurants such as
The building at 269 Powell St. was built in 1905 and originally housed the Komura Bros. General Store, an anchor store for Vancouver's Japanese community.
The interior walls are green washed
Cuisine
The menu at St. Lawrence leans toward hearty, protein-focused food, which Poirier calls cuisine de campagne ("cuisine of the countryside").
Each meal is preceded by an
St. Lawrence makes use of sauces ranging from cream and butter-based sauces to lighter gravies like au jus.[21][8][4] Since most dishes are paired with their own particular sauce, the restaurant can have as many as ten different sauces cooking each night.[8] The grilled pork chop, for example, is dressed with sauce charcutière ("butcher's sauce"), and the ling cod with a saffron sauce.[2][19]
Like the main courses, the desserts are old-fashioned and served in large portions.
The plating style at St. Lawrence is simple and unpretentious.[3] Poirier told the Vancouver Sun that "smart presentation doesn't matter to me—food must be delicious".[6] The presentation of many dishes incorporates playful touches inspired by the culture of Quebec. The tourtière is served with a miniature flag of the Montreal Canadiens hockey team, a cultural icon for the Quebecois, and a miniature bottle of Heinz Tomato Ketchup on the side.[1][23] The oreilles de crisse (deep-fried pork rinds) are served in a maple syrup can, an object which has been described as "Canada in a can".[21][24][25]
In January 2020, St. Lawrence held a series of "
During the 2020–2021 COVID-19 pandemic in British Columbia, there were several periods of restrictions on indoor dining, beginning in April 2020. St. Lawrence began to offer take-out dinners during these closures.[27] The restaurant re-opened for dine-in service in May 2020, but continued to offer take-out.[28][29] The dine-in menu was adjusted from à la carte (individual ordering of dishes from a menu with several options) to table d'hôte (limited options from a pre-set menu).[30] In February 2021, St. Lawrence offered a menu based on the cuisine of Lyon, France.[31] This menu was intended to be the first in a series based on regions of France, which was cancelled due to the re-imposition of indoor dining restrictions.[32]
Reception
Mis Stainsby of the
Food critics have specifically highlighted the richness of the dishes at St. Lawrence.[22] Writing for the Asian Pacific Post, Grace Cheung was particularly fond of several menu items featuring cheese.[34] Gill called the restaurant "excessively rich, intensely fastidious, insanely delicious".[21] Lindsay Anderson of Bon Appétit warned diners not to make plans after eating at St. Lawrence, saying that the rich food was "guaranteed to put you to bed,"[13] although Gail Johnson of The Georgia Straight suggested a post-dinner walk along Vancouver's seawall.[4]
Critics have pointed out that the restaurant's high prices come at an apparent contrast to its rustic aesthetic.[1] Saddy noted that the French wine bottles were "not cheap". Drinking a glass's worth would be much more affordable, wrote Saddy; the choices for this were "modest" but "well-chosen".[19] Neal McLennan of Vancouver Magazine found the bill for two to be expensive, although he stated that it "never feels gouging." He noted that the large portions meant "we could have added a third diner for such an order without anyone going hungry."[20]
Rankings and awards
Alexandra Gill of
In 2018, its first eligible year, it was ranked 20th on the Canada's 100 Best list.[43] It has remained within the list's top ten since 2019. In 2019 (5th) and 2020 (2nd), it was the highest-ranked restaurant in Western Canada.[18][44][45] There was no list for 2021 due to the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic in Canada. In 2022, St. Lawrence was placed 3rd in Canada.[46]
See also
References
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l Stainsby, Mia (July 27, 2017). "Restaurant review: Quebecois food a passion project for chef J.C. Poirier". Vancouver Sun. Archived from the original on March 29, 2020. Retrieved April 5, 2020.
- ^ a b c d e Millar, Whitney (July 13, 2017). "St. Lawrence, Vancouver". NUVO. Archived from the original on March 29, 2020. Retrieved April 22, 2020.
- ^ a b c Morrison, Andrew (June 26, 2017). "First Look Inside Chef JC Poirier's St. Lawrence As It Readies For Launch This Week". Scout Magazine. Archived from the original on November 9, 2018. Retrieved April 22, 2020.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i Johnson, Gail (July 12, 2017). "Homey and hearty, St. Lawrence brings Quebec to Vancouver". The Georgia Straight. Archived from the original on March 29, 2020. Retrieved May 4, 2020.
- ^ a b c Gendemann, Kaitlyn (June 19, 2018). "2018 Foodies of the Year: JC Poirier". Western Living Magazine. Archived from the original on July 6, 2021. Retrieved May 4, 2020.
- ^ a b c Shore, Randy (March 28, 2020). "Meet the chef: J-C Poirier". Vancouver Sun. Archived from the original on March 29, 2020. Retrieved May 8, 2020.
- ^ a b c d Kent, Joie Alvaro (Winter 2018). "Home Cooking with J.C. Poirier". Montecristo. Archived from the original on March 29, 2020. Retrieved April 22, 2020.
- ^ a b c d e f g Gill, Alexandra (October 13, 2017). "Cozy Québécois eatery St. Lawrence brings rich French specialties to Vancouver". The Globe and Mail. Archived from the original on June 10, 2020. Retrieved April 17, 2020.
- ^ Burcuoglu, Hakan (May 31, 2020). "St. Lawrence Restaurant's J.C. Poirier Embraces Change". The Curatorialist. Archived from the original on June 11, 2020. Retrieved June 11, 2020.
- ^ Van Evra, Jennifer (January 15, 2019). "Vancouver's Caffè La Tana Channels Old World Beauty". Metropolis. Archived from the original on March 29, 2020. Retrieved April 22, 2020.
- ^ a b c "Restaurant of the Year 2018: St. Lawrence". Vancouver Magazine. April 16, 2018. Archived from the original on July 27, 2020. Retrieved April 5, 2020.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j Quigley, Annie (March 12, 2018). "St. Lawrence in Vancouver: A Sultry, Blue-Hued Bistro, Right Out of a Painting". Remodelista. Archived from the original on March 29, 2020. Retrieved April 2, 2020.
- ^ a b Anderson, Lindsay. "St. Lawrence Review". Bon Appétit. Archived from the original on August 29, 2020. Retrieved May 8, 2020.
- ^ "Historic Map-Guide: Japantown Vancouver" (PDF). Vancouver Heritage Foundation. 2010. Archived (PDF) from the original on June 10, 2020. Retrieved June 9, 2020.
- ^ Redekop, Arlen. "The entrance to Big Lou's Butcher Shop at 269 Powell..." The Province. Archived from the original on June 10, 2020. Retrieved May 12, 2020.
- OCLC 724642772.
- ^ Giesz-Ramsay, Tracy (July 29, 2019). "St. Lawrence". FÖDA kost. Archived from the original on March 29, 2020. Retrieved April 5, 2020.
- ^ a b c "No. 5: St. Lawrence". Canada's 100 Best. April 15, 2019. Archived from the original on March 29, 2020. Retrieved April 5, 2020.
- ^ a b c d Saddy, Guy. "St. Lawrence – Restaurant Review". Condé Nast Traveler. Archived from the original on March 29, 2020. Retrieved April 2, 2020.
- ^ a b McLennan, Neal (September 11, 2017). "Review: St. Lawrence Elevates East Van with Québécois Fare". Vancouver Magazine. Archived from the original on March 29, 2020. Retrieved May 8, 2020.
- ^ a b c d e Gill, Alexandra (December 8, 2017). "Top new Vancouver restaurants of 2017". The Globe and Mail. Archived from the original on August 17, 2020. Retrieved April 5, 2020.
- ^ a b c Sasvari, Joanne (October 12, 2019). "At St. Lawrence, Cognac stars in elegant classic cocktails". Vancouver Sun. Archived from the original on March 29, 2020. Retrieved May 8, 2020.
- ^ Gibbs, Owen (April 10, 2019). "The Montreal Canadiens' role in francophone culture". The McGill Tribune. Archived from the original on June 11, 2020. Retrieved June 11, 2020.
- ^ Ring, Treve (February 5, 2018). "St. Lawrence Restaurant". Wine & Spirits Magazine. Archived from the original on March 29, 2020. Retrieved April 5, 2020.
- ^ Peritz, Ingrid (March 19, 2017). "Canada in a can: Maple syrup endures as a national symbol". The Globe and Mail. Archived from the original on November 12, 2020. Retrieved June 11, 2020.
- ^ Stainsby, Mia (February 12, 2020). "Cabane au Sucre was a sweet success for J.C. Poirier's St. Lawrence". The Province. Archived from the original on March 29, 2020. Retrieved April 5, 2020.
- ^ Morrow, Fiona (April 7, 2020). "These Award-Winning Vancouver Restaurants Now Offer Takeout". Montecristo. Archived from the original on April 13, 2020. Retrieved April 14, 2020.
- ^ William-Ross, Lindsay (May 25, 2020). "One of Vancouver's best restaurants is re-opening for dine-in, but you'll have to pre-pay for your meal". Vancouver Is Awesome. Archived from the original on March 4, 2021. Retrieved July 6, 2021.
- ^ Joanne, Sasvari (May 7, 2021). "Bring the celebration home: 25 fine-dining restaurants that offer takeout in Metro Vancouver". Vancouver Sun. Archived from the original on June 28, 2021. Retrieved July 6, 2021.
- ^ Gill, Alexandra (July 7, 2020). "Review: Vancouver's high-end dining restaurants finely tune their focus to survive". The Globe and Mail. Archived from the original on October 9, 2020. Retrieved July 7, 2021.
- ^ McLean, Hanna (February 12, 2021). "Travel-inspired menus that will transport you out of Vancouver | Dished". Daily Hive. Archived from the original on February 25, 2021. Retrieved July 7, 2021.
- ^ Gill, Alexandra (April 25, 2021). "Vancouver restaurateurs pivot to picnic-perfect comfort foods". The Globe and Mail. Archived from the original on April 27, 2021. Retrieved July 7, 2021.
- ^ a b Matsumoto, Nancy (2018). "St. Lawrence". EnRoute. Archived from the original on July 6, 2021. Retrieved April 17, 2020.
- ^ Cheung, Grace (July 18, 2017). "Restaurant Review: St. Lawrence". Asian Pacific Post. Archived from the original on March 29, 2020. Retrieved May 4, 2020.
- ^ William-Ross, Lindsay (October 27, 2018). "Vancouver has one of the best new restaurants in Canada". Vancouver Courier. Archived from the original on March 29, 2020. Retrieved May 8, 2020.
- ^ a b McLennan, Neal (April 29, 2019). "Restaurant of the Year and Chef of the Year 2019: St. Lawrence and JC Poirier". Vancouver Magazine. Archived from the original on March 29, 2020. Retrieved April 5, 2020.
- ^ "Vancouver Magazine crowns St. Lawrence best restaurant for 2nd year". CBC News. April 29, 2019. Archived from the original on January 23, 2021. Retrieved April 16, 2020.
- ^ "Restaurant Awards 2022: Restaurant of the Year". Vancouver Magazine. October 4, 2022. Archived from the original on October 28, 2022. Retrieved October 27, 2022.
- ^ McLennan, Neal (September 14, 2020). "Vanmag's 2020 Restaurant Awards". Vancouver Magazine. Archived from the original on October 1, 2020. Retrieved September 19, 2020.
- ^ Gill, Alexandra (October 27, 2022). "Eight Vancouver restaurants receive prestigious Michelin honours". The Globe and Mail. Archived from the original on October 28, 2022. Retrieved October 27, 2022.
- ^ Yeung, Lien (October 27, 2022). "8 restaurants get coveted star in 1st Vancouver Michelin Guide". CBC News. Archived from the original on January 14, 2023. Retrieved October 27, 2022.
- ^ Wright, Daryn (November 30, 2022). "4 Vancouver eateries make list of world's best restaurants". Daily Hive. Retrieved February 6, 2023.
- ^ "No. 20: St. Lawrence". Canada's 100 Best. March 21, 2018. Archived from the original on March 29, 2020. Retrieved May 4, 2020.
- ^ "Presenting the 100 Best Restaurants in Canada 2019 by Region". Canada's 100 Best. Archived from the original on May 11, 2020. Retrieved May 4, 2020.
- ^ "Canada's 100 Best Restaurants, Bars and Chefs. | 2. St. Lawrence". Canada's 100 Best Restaurants, Bars and Chefs. June 16, 2020. Archived from the original on June 20, 2020. Retrieved June 18, 2020.
- ^ "No. 3: St. Lawrence". Canada’s 100 Best. May 24, 2022. Archived from the original on June 12, 2022. Retrieved June 12, 2022.