Multi-pitch climbing
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Multi-pitch climbing is a type of
Multi-pitch climbing is more complex and riskier than single-pitch climbing as the climbers will remain exposed on the route (e.g. a
Description
Multi-pitch
Multi-pitch climbs are usually done in teams of pairs, and the position of leader can alternate between pitches or after a group of pitches (called "block leading") as long as both climbers have the skill and competence to lead on the route. Alternatively, one climber can lead all of the pitches while the other climber constantly belays them, and is then belayed themselves from the top by the lead climber on each pitch (see image left). Where both climbers are very comfortable on the terrain and want to move quickly, they can use simul climbing, although this is a more complex and riskier technique.
In addition to climbing in pairs, multi-pitch climbs can be done as solo climbs, either as free solo climbing (i.e. no protection used), or as rope solo climbing (i.e. a self-belying system used).[1][2]
The boundary between multi-pitch climbing and
Equipment
Multi-pitch climbing requires all the equipment used in leading a single-pitch sport, traditional or ice climbing route, but with a few specific additions:[1][4]
- Extra screwgate carabiners to create strong and secure belay anchors at the end of each pitch. In addition, belaying from above usually requires additional self-locking devices (e.g. grigris). For longer multi-pitch routes (i.e. closer to big wall climbing), ascenders might be used by the second climber to speed progression.[1][4]
- Abseiling equipment. Even where the multi-pitch climbers can exit upon completing the climb via a walking trail (versus having to abseil back down), the risk of a forced retreat during the climb means that sufficient equipment for safe abseiling is also always carried; this means having several abseil devices (e.g. the figure 8), additional prusik cords, and also extra coils of rope as a basic requirement.[1][4]
Techniques
While many of the techniques of single-pitch lead climbing are common to multi-pitch climbing, there are specific techniques that are important to be able to execute well to safely ascend a multi-pitch climbing route:[1][4]
- Hanging belays and belaying from above. Some multi-pitch climbs will have belay points that have no ledge to stand on, and thus the belayer will be hanging from the rock face from the belay anchor. In addition, belaying from above a climber can involve additional belay equipment (such as a grigri) and techniques to avoid forces being applied directly to the belayer's harness in the event of a climber fall.[4][8]
- Changing leads. Multi-pitch climbers sometimes need to be able to switch roles efficiently at the end of each pitch. Where the pair alternate leads, the second climber can continue past the belay to lead the next pitch (e.g., the belayer keeps belaying). However, where they need to swap roles at the belay anchor, there are a number of techniques required to ensure that the changeover is done safely and efficiently.[4][9]
- Communication. Because of the greater distances between climbers (the individual pitches of multi-pitch routes are often typically a full rope-length), and the need for the lead climber to have the time to set up a strong belay anchor, it is important that the pair understand the signals and commands that indicate when such tasks have been completed and the lead climber is ready to belay.[4][10][11]
- Fall factor management. Multi-pitch climbers need to avoid the lead climber falling with no climbing protection in situ, so that they fall all the way down to the belayer and then the same distance again below the belayer. Such a fall has a fall-factor of 2 and will create significant strains on both the belay anchors and the belayer. To avoid this, the lead will clip into protection just above the belay anchor.[4][12]
- Rope management. Once the lead climber creates the new belay anchor to belay their partner below, they need to take in the slack rope until there is a taut line between the pair. As they will often be standing on a small platform (or even no platform in a hanging belay), they need to ensure that the rope they pull up does not get caught up equipment or get tangled, and will therefore use some manner of coiling technique.[4][13]
- Time and retreat management. Retreat from a multi-pitch climb can be difficult, and at a minimum will require abseils which are in themselves a risk factor. Mult-pitch climbers, therefore, need to be aware of their time-keeping, and the specific points at which retreat becomes more difficult, and/or where abseil points are less plentiful (some popular multi-pitch routes have bolted belay anchors that double as abseil points).[4]
Competition multi-pitch climbing
In October 2022, the first
Grading
Multi-pitch climbing routes are generally graded in the same way as their equivalent single-pitch sport route grading, traditional route grading, or ice route grading routes. Each pitch on a multi-pitch route will be separately graded so that, for example, a 3-pitch multi-sport climbing route might be graded as French sport: 7c, 7b, 8a; or a 5-pitch multi-traditional climbing route might be graded as American YDS: 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10a, 5.11c, 5.9. Harder or easier options on individual pitches will also be highlighted and separately graded, so that, for example, a pitch might be graded as French sport: 7c "avoidable" or "max" (you don't have to do the 7c part) / 7a "obligatory" or "obj" (you will have to do at least 7a graded climbing).[18]
Sometimes an "overall" grade is quoted for a multi-pitch route (in addition to the grades of individual pitches), however, this is usually the grade of the hardest pitch on the route (e.g. see Yeah Man image opposite).[18]
In common with big wall grading, where there are very difficult sections of individual pitches that are well above the general level of difficulty of the overall route (i.e. a common feature of bigger walls as it is harder to find big routes of a consistent difficulty level), an aid climbing option might be highlighted, which will have an attached aid climbing grade, for example, an individual pitch on a multi-traditional climbing route might be graded as: 5.10a (with no aid) or 5.7 A2 (with aid), and the type of aid needed also explained.[18]
In film
A number of notable films have been made focused on multi-pitch (and big wall climbing) including:[19]
- El Capitan, a 1978 documentary film about an early ascent of The Nose (VI 5.9 C2) on El Capitan.
- Meru, a 2015 documentary film about the ascent of a Himalayan big wall route called the Shark's Fin,
- Valley Uprising, a 2014 Amazon Prime documentary film about rock climbing in Yosemite, that includes big wall climbing.
- The Dawn Wall, a 2017 Netflix documentary film about Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson's ascent of the first-ever big wall route at 5.14d (9a).
- Freerider 5.13a(7c+) on El Capitan.
- The Alpinist, a 2021 documentary film about the late Canadian alpinist Marc-André Leclerc, featuring his solo ascent of Torre Egger in Patagonia
See also
References
- ^ ISBN 978-1594851384.
- ^ ISBN 978-1493056262.
- ^ "Brych VI+". theCrag. 2023. Retrieved 18 November 2023.
- ^ ISBN 978-1796923278. Retrieved 23 August 2023.
- ^ Chauvins, Marc; Coppoillo, Rob (15 March 2022). "Master the Ultimate Multi-Pitch Anchor: The Quadalette". Climbing. Retrieved 23 August 2023.
- ^ Debruin, Derek (13 January 2022). "A Simpler Way to Rig Multi-Pitch Anchors". Climbing. Retrieved 23 August 2023.
- ^ Sterling, Sarah (4 April 2016). "Five of the best adventurous multi-pitch sport crags in Europe". British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 23 August 2023.
- ^ Climbing Desk (6 May 2022). "Weekend Whipper: 5.14 Multi-pitch route Never Looked So Uncomfortable". Climbing. Retrieved 23 August 2023.
- ^ Garlick, Sarah (20 May 2022). "7 Tricks for Speedy Swaps at Multi-pitch Belays". Climbing. Retrieved 23 August 2023.
- ^ Pardy, Aaron (13 April 2023). "10 Tips for Better Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 23 August 2023.
- ^ Corrigan, Kevin (23 August 2023). "Avoid Accidents With Better Multi-pitch Communication". Climbing. Retrieved 17 January 2023.
- ^ Harris, Will (July 2014). "Top tips for your first multi-pitch adventure". British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 23 August 2023.
- ^ Ellison, Julie (23 August 2023). "Streamline Your Next Multi-pitch With These Rope-management Tips". Climbing. Retrieved 13 January 2023.
- ^ Miller, Delaney (2 November 2022). "Yep: There was a 600-foot Multipitch Race up a Swiss Dam". Climbing. Retrieved 9 March 2024.
- ^ Mitchell, Hannah (29 November 2022). "Red Bull's Dual Ascent—Equal Parts Impressive and Absurd—Returns for Second Year". Climbing. Retrieved 9 March 2024.
- ^ "Brother and Sister Win Epic Multi-Pitch Red Bull Climbing Comp". Gripped Magazine. 9 November 2023. Retrieved 9 March 2023.
- ^ "Josune Bereziartu and Rikar Otegi made the first free ascent of "Yeah man"". 11 August 2004. Retrieved 23 August 2023.
- ^ ISBN 978-0898867480.
- ^ Bisharat, Andrew (6 September 2022). "The 20 Best Climbing Films of All Time". Outside. Retrieved 28 September 2023.
Further reading
- ISBN 978-1493056262.
- ISBN 978-1846892622.
- Ron Funderburke (May 2019). Climbing: From Single Pitch to Multipitch (Illustrated ed.). ISBN 978-1493027668.
External links
- Multi-Pitch Sport Climbing, by Neil Chelton of VDiff Climbing (2023)
- Multi-pitch Climbing 101: The Complete Guide, by Willis Kuelthau of 99Boulders (2021)