Alpine climbing
Part of 1938 Heckmair Route (ED2, V−, A0, 60° snow).[1] |
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Alpine climbing (German: Alpinklettern) is a type of mountaineering that involves using any of a broad range of advanced climbing skills, including rock climbing, ice climbing, and/or mixed climbing, to summit typically large routes (e.g. multi-pitch or big wall) in an alpine environment. While alpine climbing began in the European Alps, it is used to refer to climbing in any remote mountainous area, including in the Himalayas and in Patagonia. The derived term alpine style refers to the fashion of alpine climbing to be in small lightly-equipped teams who carry all of their own equipment (e.g. no porters), and do all of the climbing (e.g. no sherpas or reserve teams).
Alpinists face a wide range of serious risks in addition to the specific risks of rock, ice, and mixed climbing. This includes the risks of rockfalls (common with rock faces in alpine environments), avalanches (especially in
The first "golden age" of modern alpine climbing was the
Description
Alpine climbing involves small unsupported teams tackling large multi-pitch (or big wall) routes that can involve various combinations of rock climbing, ice climbing, and mixed climbing, in alpine-type mountain environments. Alpine routes are often long and require a full day of climbing or even several days. Because of the length of the routes, and the danger of alpine environments (e.g. rockfall, avalanche, altitude, weather, etc.), alpine climbers (or "alpinists") typically try routes that are well within their technical rock, ice, or mixed climbing capabilities.[2][3]
While parts of an alpine route will involve a
Alpine climbing can involve
Due to the greater complexity and risks of alpine climbing, alpinists need to be much more familiar with and confident in each team member's abilities and skill level.[4] Alpine climbing involves exercising judgment and decision-making to adapt to the constantly changing alpine weather and route conditions, where good initial progress can quickly turn into a fight for the team's survival (e.g. the famous 1936 Eiger climbing disaster).[2]
Alpine style
The derived term "alpine style" alludes to the fashion of alpine climbing to be in small fast-moving teams – or even
"Alpine style" also means being "lightly equipped" with for example no supplementary oxygen, no major tenting or overnight equipment, and limited food and fuel supplies. It also means having no fixed ropes on the route (an important safety feature of expedition-style mountaineering).[8][11][10]
While these attributes enable alpine climbers to move quickly and take advantage of good conditions and "weather windows", it also makes alpine climbing far more dangerous. In situations where the habitually unstable high-altitude weather turns, alpine climbers will not have the provisions to "sit out" the storm, and will not have the fixed ropes in place to retreat safely and quickly; such forced retreats in poor conditions are dangerous.[8][10]
Equipment
While alpine climbers are "lightly equipped" due to the fact that they must carry all of their equipment while climbing, the range of climbing equipment needed can be considerable due to the diverse range of climbing techniques required on major alpine routes, and the harsh conditions encountered.[12]
- climbing helmets is common given the danger of rockfall on alpine-type routes.[13]
- cramponswill be required, as well as some of the broader tools needed for climbing in snow conditions such as avalanche equipment and snow belay systems. Alpine climbers may have to change from heavy ice climbing boots into rock climbing shoes while on the route.
- haul bags, as well as the specialized equipment for extensive and heavy-duty abseiling; and also elements of aid climbingequipment to ensure progress can be made.
Risks
Alpinists face a number of additional risks to the risks of rock climbing, ice climbing, and mixed climbing, making it one of the most dangerous forms of climbing.
Additional risks faced by alpinists to the risks of rock climbing, ice climbing, and mixed climbing, are:[16][17]
- Rockfall. Alpine-type rock faces are in a perpetual state of erosion, which leads to periods of significant rockfall on various routes. The action of these rockfalls can be amplified by the couloirs that some alpine routes ascend. Climate change has increased this risk even further.[17][18][19]
- Avalanche. Similarly to rockfall, alpinists face the risk of avalanches whose effects are also amplified by the couloirs some alpine routes ascend. In addition to encountering avalanches while on exposed alpine faces, they also encounter this risk when traveling to and from the routes. Leading modern alpinists including David Lama, Jess Roskelley, Hansjörg Auer, and Marc-André Leclerc have been killed in such a fashion.[17]
- Latok I required 85 abseils; in 1977, Doug Scott famously broke both legs abseiling down Ogre I, but survived.[8]
- Altitude. Alpine climbing is done at higher altitudes, and modern alpine climbing in the Himalayas and Patagonia is done at very high altitudes, including the death zone. As alpinists need to carry their equipment, supplementary oxygen is usually not employed. High altitude not only brings the specific risks of AMS and edema but also increases the effects of dehydration and fatigue, and thus poor decision making.[17]
- Weather. Alpinists attempt bold and exposed routes – often on the dark north faces of mountains – at high altitudes where the weather is unstable. They don't carry the equipment to "wait out" storms. Retreats by alpinists in violent storms can be more dangerous than the route itself.[17] One of the most famous examples is the 1936 Eiger climbing disaster, with the infamous image of alpinist Toni Kurz hanging from his rope.
- Glaciers and cornices. Alpinists usually need to travel over glaciers in getting to and from their routes, and can also encounter hanging glaciers on routes. Glaciers bring the risks of crevasses (including bergschrunds at the base of routes), and of large falling seracs, which is amplified by the need to travel on glaciers in the dark (an "Alpine start") to complete routes before the sun increases the risks of rockfall and avalanche. Many alpinists were killed falling through cornices such as Hermann Buhl.[17]
- Navigation. Alpine routes are typically long and can follow complex paths through large mountain ridges and faces. A mistake in navigation or route finding, which can be exacerbated by poor weather, the effects of altitude, or the need to travel in the dark, can lead the climbers into situations that are fatal. It is not uncommon for alpinists to "go missing" on large routes; notable examples are Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker.[17]
- Remoteness. Alpine climbs are in remote settings. Even in the European Alps, alpine climbers that get into difficulty can wait long periods before rescue is available or possible. Alpine climbers in the Himalayas and in Patagonia may take significantly longer periods to rescue, and for advanced and dangerous routes, rescue may simply not be possible without endangering the rescuers.[17]
Grading
Due to the complexity of routes in alpine climbing, the "overall" grade denotes the general level of seriousness of the route to which is added additional specific grade(s) for any rock climbing (usually the French, American, or UIAA grades for free climbing, and the A-grade for aid climbing), ice climbing (the WI-grade), and mixed climbing (the M-grade) involved. In addition, alpine grades will quote the inclination of the main snow slopes encountered (e.g. 50–60 degrees), as these are often not graded ice climbs, but contribute significantly to the overall risk.[20]
The most widely used "overall" grades are the acronyms of the UIAA Scale of Overall Difficulty, also known as the International French Adjectival System (IFAS).[21] The UIAA warns against aligning their acronyms with equivalent rock and ice climbing grades, as the objective dangers can vary dramatically on routes with similar rock and ice climbing grades. For example, the famous 1,800-metre Eiger North Face 1938 Heckmair Route is graded ED2 even though the rock climbing is graded UIAA V− and the ice climbing is only at 60 degrees (i.e. both typically a D grade), due to the exceptional length and danger of the route.[21] In spite of this, attempts have been made to ascribe a "typical" range of rock and ice climbing grades for to each acronym:[20][22][23]
- F: facile (easy). Beginner climbing, possibly a glacial approach, with snow at an easy angle; little real rock or ice climbing, some scrambling.[20][23]
- PD: peu difficile (slightly difficult). Novice alpine climbing. PD-/PD/PD+ routes have snow slopes of up to 45 degrees, glaciers but no real ice climbing, may involve easy rock climbing at grades 3a III to 3c IV.[20][23]
- AD: assez difficile (fairly difficult). Intermediate alpine climbing with long pitches of fully roped climbing. AD-/AD/AD+ routes have sustained snow and ice at an angle of 45–65 degrees, with ice climbing at grade WI3, and rock climbing at grades 4a (5.4) IV+ to 4c (5.6) V.[20][23]
- D: difficile (difficult). Hard and serious routes even for experienced climbers, can be long or short. D-/D/D+ routes have sustained snow and ice at an angle of 50–70 degrees, with ice climbing at grade WI4, and rock climbing at grades 5a (5.7) V+ to 5c (5.9) VI.[20][23]
- TD: très difficile (very difficult). These routes are serious undertakings with high levels of objective danger. TD-/TD/TD+ routes have sustained snow and ice at an angle of 65–80 degrees, with ice climbing at grades WI5 to WI6, and rock climbing at grades 6a (5.10a) VI+ to 6c (5.11a/b) VII+.[20][23]
- ED1/2/3/4... : extrêmement difficile (extremely difficult). Extremely hard, exceptional objective danger, vertical ice slopes with ice climbing at grades above WI6, and rock climbing at grades above 6c (5.11a/b) VII+; retreats may be extremely difficult in poor weather.[20][23]
Note: A "+" (pronounced Sup for supérieur) or a "−" (pronounced Inf for inférieur) is placed after the acronym to indicate if a climb is at the lower or upper end of that grade (e.g., a climb slightly harder than "PD+" might be "AD−").[21] The term ABO for abominable is explicitly not recognized by the UIAA.[21]
Milestones
The following are the most notable milestones in alpine climbing (and latterly, alpine-style climbing as applied worldwide):
European Alps
- 1938. A team led by Anderl Heckmair completed the greatest prize in European alpine climbing, the first ascent of the north face of the Eiger. Even today, the 1938 Route (as it is known), carries a grade of ED2, due to its extreme danger beyond its technical grades of V A0 60-degree slopes.
- 1938–1949. Gaston Rébuffat became the first alpinist to complete the six great north faces of the Alps.
- 1955. Petit Dru, which became known as the Bonatti Pillar, one of the hardest feats of alpine climbing at the time; much of the pillar fell off in 2005 and the route no longer exists.[24]
- 1977–1978. Ivano Ghirardini became the first alpinist to climb the "Trilogy" in winter, and solo; Catherine Destivelle was the first female to complete the solo winter Trilogy in 1992–1994.
Himalayas
- 1975. expedition style.[8]
- 1976. After 25 days of climbing, Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker summit the west wall of Changabang in alpine style; their integration of big wall climbing techniques was revolutionary. Boardman's account, The Shining Mountain, became a classic in mountain literature.[25]
- 1977. A small team led by Doug Scott and Chris Bonington made the first ascent of The Orge in pure alpine style; the descent turned into a struggle for survival as Scott and Bonnington were severely injured on the abseil; the ascent attracted worldwide interest for its boldness.[8]
- 1978. After 26 days of climbing, a small team led by Latok I via the north ridge in pure alpine style; the route would not be climbed until 2022 but Lowe's bold attempt increased worldwide interest in "pure alpine style" climbing.[8]
- 2013.
Patagonia
- 2021. Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll
In film
A number of notable climbing films have been made about alpine climbing (and alpine climbing routes), including:[30]
- The Alpinist, a 2021 documentary film about the late Canadian alpinist Marc-André Leclerc, featuring his ascent of Torre Egger
- Meru, a 2015 documentary film about the ascent of the Shark Fin's Route on Meru Peak in the Himalayas
- North Face, a 2008 German historical film about the 1936 Eiger climbing disaster
- Touching the Void, a 2003 docudrama about a famous alpine climbing rescue in the Peruvian Andes
- The Eiger Sanction, a 1975 fictional thriller film that involves an ascent of the north face of the Eiger
See also
References
- ^ "Eiger speed record by Dani Arnold". PlanetMountain. 24 April 2011. Retrieved 10 May 2023.
- ^ a b c d Buhay, Corey (19 September 2022). "Want to Get into Alpine Climbing? Here's How to Get Started". Climbing. Retrieved 4 May 2023.
- ^ a b "Alpine skills". British Mountaineering Council. 28 March 2004. Retrieved 4 May 2023.
- ^ a b c d e Ellison, Julie (4 July 2022). "Go From Crag to Alpine Climbing With These 8 Tips". Climbing. Retrieved 6 May 2023.
- ^ Cross, Rich (7 May 2003). "French style: moving quickly in the Alps". British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 4 May 2023.
- ^ "Ueli Steck, Mathieu Maynadier and Jérôme Para in Les Drus North Couloir Direct". PlanetMountain. 28 March 2016. Retrieved 12 April 2024.
- ^ "Alpine-style". Collins English Dictionary. Retrieved 5 May 2023.
Definition of 'alpine style': In Mountaineering, of or in an ascent (esp in high mountains like the Himalayas) in which the climbers carry all their equipment with them in a single ascent from base to summit.
- ^ a b c d e f g h Holsten, Jens (16 August 2016). "State of the Heart: The Evolution of Alpinism". Climbing. Retrieved 4 May 2023.
- El Pais. Retrieved 5 May 2023.
- ^ a b c "The New Alpinists". Outside. 1 October 2000. Retrieved 4 May 2023.
- Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved 5 May 2023.
- ^ Ryan, Tony (8 June 2016). "Essential alpine know-how". British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 25 April 2023.
- ^ Middelton, Daniel (20 June 2014). "Tech skills: gear for alpine rock". British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 25 April 2023.
- New York Times. Retrieved 4 May 2023.
- ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2021-11-30.
- ^ House, Steve (24 May 2019). "The Principles of Alpine Climbing / Mountain safety with Steve House". PlanetMountain. Retrieved 4 May 2023.
- ^ ISBN 978-0898867497.
- ^ O'Neill, Devon (5 February 2016). "How Climate Change Is Making Mountaineering and Alpinism More Dangerous". Outside. Retrieved 4 May 2023.
- ^ "Opinion: Climbers Are Dying in Patagonia and It Seems Different Than Before". Gripped Magazine. 26 January 2023. Retrieved 4 May 2023.
- ^ a b c d e f g h "Grade Conversions: Alpine Grading System". Rockfax Publishing. Retrieved 4 May 2023.
- ^ S2CID 53358088.
- ^ "International Grade Comparison Chart". American Alpine Journal. 2013. Retrieved 1 May 2023.
- ^ a b c d e f g "Alpine Grading". International School of Mountaineering. 1 February 2021. Retrieved 4 May 2023.
- ^ Potts, Mary Ann (16 September 2011). "Remembering Italian Mountaineer Walter Bonatti, 1930-2011". National Geographic. Retrieved 6 May 2023.
- ^ Turnbull, Ronald (7 May 2022). "Mountain Literature Classics: The Shining Mountain". UKClimbing. Retrieved 5 May 2023.
- ISBN 9780956930934. Retrieved 1 January 2014.
- ^ Douglas, Ed (17 May 2017). "Ueli Steck obituary". The Guardian. Retrieved 4 January 2023.
- ^ Franz, Derek (15 February 2021). "Interview with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll about his solo traverse of Patagonia's Fitz Roy massif (the Moonwalk Traverse)". Alpinist. Retrieved 4 May 2023.
- ^ "The Greatest Alpine Climb Ever Done?". Gripped Magazine. 21 February 2021. Retrieved 12 April 2024.
- ^ Bisharat, Andrew (6 September 2022). "The 20 Best Climbing Films of All Time". Outside. Retrieved 28 September 2023.
Further reading
- Cosley, Kathy; Houston, Mark (2004). Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher. Mountaineers Books. ISBN 978-0898867497.
- Goodlad, Bruce (2011). Alpine Mountaineering: Essential Knowledge for Budding Alpinists. Pesda Press. ISBN 978-1906095307.
- ISBN 978-1938340239.
External links
- The Alps: A Glance at Modern Alpine Style, American Alpine Club (2001)
- Essential alpine climbing know-how, British Mountaineering Council (2016)
- Grading of Alpine Climbs, Ari Paulin Base Camp Database (2023)