Slip-on shoe
Slip-ons are typically low, lace-less
A less casual, earlier type of slip-on is made with side goring (sometimes called a dress loafer).[4] Made in the same shape as lace-up Oxfords, but lacking the laces, these shoes have elasticated inserts on the side which allow the shoe to be easily removed but remain snug when worn. This cut has its greatest popularity in Britain.[5]
Loafers
History
A bespoke shoe company based in London that was established in 1847[
Shoemaker Nils Gregoriusson Tveranger (1874–1953) in
The term penny loafer has uncertain beginnings. One explanation is when American
In the mid-1950s, further continental influences brought a more elegant image to light, lower-cut slip-ons, which moved from purely casual use to being paired with suits in the 1960s (but still only in America).[21] In 1966, Italian designer Gucci made the further step of adding a metal strap across the front in the shape of a horse's snaffle bit. These Gucci loafers (now a general term referring to shoes of this style by any manufacturer) also spread over the Atlantic and were worn by 1970s businessmen, becoming almost a Wall Street uniform, reaching widespread use by the 1980s.
At the start of the twenty-first century, a revival of penny loafers, whose popularity had peaked during the mid to late 1960s and again during the early 1980s to early 1990s,
Another variation on the basic style is the tassel loafer, which emerged in the 1950s. Again, though casual, their gradual acceptance among the American East Coast prep school culture as equivalent to brogues (wingtips),[21] has led to them being worn there with suits, where they gained an association with business and legal classes.
Types of loafer
Style | Year | History | Defining features |
---|---|---|---|
Wildsmith[22] | 1926 | Raymond Lewis Wildsmith was asked to create a country house shoe. Initially called the 582, now widely known as the Wildsmith Loafer. | Serrated seam and reinforced toe box. Vertical stitching on toe. |
Aurland[23] | 1930 | Shoemaker Nils Gregoriussen Tveranger combined the Native American moccasin with shoes worn by local fishermen, in the town of Aurland, Norway. The Aurland Moccasin was born. | Raised seam on upper, similar to moccasin. Narrow cut out on saddle. |
Penny[24] | 1936 | G.H. Bass of Wilton, Maine, launched a loafer called the 'Weejun' (from 'Norwegian'). It became very popular in the U.S, especially among prep school students, who legend states kept pennies in the saddle slot for pay phone calls. Hence the name 'penny loafers'. | Leather 'saddle' strap across upper, with cut out big enough to hold a penny. |
Kilted[25] | 1950s | Kilties have been fashioned upon brogues and Oxfords by Scottish ghillies, kings and golfers for over 100 years. The loafer got kilted in the 1950s when Kiltie golf shoes and penny loafers were at their fashion zenith. Also popular with Mods and skinheads. | Kilt style over-the-vamp flap, secured by leather string or tassels. |
Horse Bit[26] | 1953 | Italian designer Aldo Gucci refined the lines, added a gold horse bit, and made them in black. This elevated the loafer to formal wear status. While this design was pioneered by Aldo Gucci the horse bit loafer is produced by a wide variety of shoe makers today. | Horse bit style metal link. |
Belgian[26] | 1954 | Henri Bendel sold his family shoe store and bought two 300-year-old shoe factories in Belgium. His loafers became an instant hit, and the bow was easily recognizable. His work earned him two knighthoods. | Small bow on top and sewn inside out to create a fine seam. |
Tasseled[26] | 1957 | Brooks Brothers and Alden Shoe Co collaborated to produce the popular tasseled loafer. Originally a bespoke commission by actor Paul Lukas who liked the tasseled shoelaces on a pair of Oxfords. | Tassels held in place by a leather strand. |
Use
In the United States and some European countries, such as Italy, the loafer enjoys general use as a casual and informal shoe worn for work and leisure, though lace-ups are still preferred for more formal situations.[5] The general popularity of brown over black extends to loafers, sometimes using exotic leathers such as suede and cordovan. Since the early 1980s, socks have been optional while wearing loafers.[27]
Though originally men's shoes,[28] some styles of loafers, such as casual tassel and penny loafers, are also worn by women. Women's loafers tend to have shorter toes and are worn with a variety of outfits from shorts, jeans, slacks, and capris to dresses and skirts.
Gored shoes
In an evolution entirely different from the loafer, Chelsea boots were invented by J. Sparkes Hall for Queen Victoria in 1836. The stretchable rubber produces a comfortable shoe combining the convenience of laceless shoes with the profile of lace-ups. Its feminine image was soon lost and was dubbed Congress gaiter and Boston boot in America. Rare even in Britain, its country of origin, it is still the only style of slip-on worn with a suit in some of the highly conservative working environments in the City of London.[29] With such a background, their use mimics that of Oxfords, so they are worn in brown with broguing as a country shoe, or in plainer, black styles with suits.
In popular culture
Michael Jackson wore penny loafers during his performances, and it became one of his most iconic styles while performing[30] his moonwalk,[31] iconic toe stand, and other performance moves were mostly done by him whilst he was wearing penny loafers during his performances in his world tours.
See also
References
- ^ Moisa, Dan D. (2023-07-18). MEN'S UNIQUE STYLE. Dumitru Danut Moisa. p. 204.
- ^ "Q&A, Chay Cooper, Wildsmith Shoes". theholbornmag.com. 30 August 2013. Retrieved 6 April 2018.
- ^ a b Dagens Næringsliv D2 magazine, September 7, 2012.
- ISBN 978-0-394-54623-0.
- ^ ISBN 0-06-089186-6.
- ^ Wildsmith: The History of our Footwear Archived 2013-10-19 at the Wayback Machine Wildsmith: The History of our Footwear
- ^ a b Lewis, Neil (November 3, 1993). "The Politicization of Tasseled Loafers". The New York Times.
- ^ a b "Aurlandskoen » Historikk". Aurlandskoen.no. Archived from the original on 2011-01-29. Retrieved 2013-06-15.
- ^ ISBN 8299226120.
- ^ Beretning om Bergensutstillingen 1910. Bergen, 1917.
- ^ "Guide For Man". Retrieved 29 August 2018.
- ISBN 8291082006.
- ^ Sogn i tekst og billeder. Oslo: Kjenn ditt land. 1936.
- ^ Det Norske næringsliv. Bergen: Det norske næringslivs forl. 1953.
- ^ Norsk husflid: i går, i dag, i morgen. Skien: Norges husflid- og husindustrilag. 1950.
- ISBN 0-06-019144-9.
- ISBN 978-1-4262-0420-3.
- ^ Flusser (2002). p. 203
- ^ "Penny Loafer History". Brooks Brothers. 2014-08-27. Retrieved 2021-08-17.
- ^ "Penny Wise - A Primer on our Favorite Loafer | of Rogues and Gentlemen". Archived from the original on 2013-08-17. Retrieved 2013-08-14.
- ^ a b Flusser (2002). p. 196
- ^ "Wildsmith: The Wildsmith Loafer | Mens Loafers | Leather Loafer Shoes". www.wildsmith.com. Archived from the original on 2013-08-20. Retrieved 2016-09-29.
- ^ "The story". Visit Flåm. Retrieved 2016-09-29.
- ^ "They're Called What? The History of Penny Loafers". blog.schuh.co.uk. 26 February 2014. Retrieved 2016-09-29.
- ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2016-09-29.
- ^ a b c "Loafer Shoes Guide For Men - Penny Loafers, Tassels & Gucci — Gentleman's Gazette". www.gentlemansgazette.com. Retrieved 2016-09-29.
- ^ Gninyomo, Luc (2022-09-21). "An In-Dept Look into Types of Loafers and Its Use as Men's Best Fashion Shoes". Sheen Magazine. Retrieved 2024-04-11.
- ISBN 978-3-7415-2686-2.
- ^ Flusser (2002). p. 197
- ^ Goldstein, Joelle (2018-04-20). "Michael Jackson Moonwalk Loafers to Be Auctioned". The Hollywood Reporter. Retrieved 2024-04-11.
- ^ Gray, Melissa (2018-04-21). "Michael Jackson's famous moonwalk shoes are going up for auction". CNN. Retrieved 2024-04-11.