Poulaine
Poulaines, also known by
Names
The usual English name poulaine
History
Shoes with pointed, curled, and/or elongated toes are documented in the archeological record back to at least 3000 BC
Pointed-toed shoes first became a major trend in
Poulaines proper spread across Europe in the
The arrival—or resumption—of this fashion in England is traditionally associated with the marriage of
The 14th-century poulaines so far recovered in London have only been found only in men's sizes,[27]: 88–9 although depictions of Lora St. Quintin—wife of John de Grey's son Robert de Marmion—show her wearing shorter poulaines with their points curved to the sides.[18] By the 15th century, art shows frequent use by both men and women, with the toes of men's shoes being the most extravagantly long.
They were a controversial fashion and faced criticism from several quarters. In 1368,
In 1463,
By the 1480s, poulaines had generally fallen from fashion in favor of the wide
Design
Toe length
Archaeological evidence in the form of surviving shoe soles shows that the length of the point beyond the toes of the foot was rarely, if ever, more than 50% of the length of the foot.[26][27]: 88–9 This is consistent with depictions of highly fashionable European men from the third quarter of the 15th century when poulaines were at the height of their popularity. As with many items of high fashion, the most extreme examples were worn by the upper classes.
Stuffing
Poulaine toes were packed with stuffing to provide rigidity and help them hold their shape. Surviving examples from medieval London have the points stuffed with moss.[26] An Italian chronicler noted in 1388 that they were also sometimes stuffed with horsehair.[36]
Tying up the toes
Although there is no archaeological or medieval iconographic evidence to support the idea that the toes were ever tied up to the leg,[7] as noted earlier, there is direct literary evidence dating from 1394 which states that this was the practice at the time these shoes were introduced into England. Additionally, the practice is mentioned by the antiquarian John Stow in his 1698 publication A Survey of London, where he wrote:
In Distar Lane, on the north side thereof, is the Cordwainer's Hall, which company were made a brotherhood or fraternity in the eleventh of Henry IV. Of these cordwainers, I read, that since the fifth of Richard II (when he took to wife Anne, daughter to Wenceslaus [sic], King of Bohemia), by her example the English people had used piked shoes, tied to their knees with silken laces, or chains of silver or gilt, wherefore in the fourth of Edward IV it was ordained and proclaimed that beaks of shoon and boots should not pass the length of two inches, upon pain of cursing by the clergy, and by Parliament to pay twenty shillings for every pair. And every cordwainer that shod any man or woman on the Sunday, to pay thirty shillings.[41]
However, given that John Stow was writing over 100 years after the shoes fell out of fashion, and the lack of rigorous historical research in the writings of the time, he cannot be considered a reliable source. His record of Act 4 of Edward IV is exaggerated—the actual act does mention restrictions in length, but not monetary penalties, parliament or clergy:
Nulle persone Cordewaner ou Cobeler .. face.. ascuns soler galoges ou husend oveqe ascun pike ou poleine qe passera la longuer ou mesure de deux poutz.[7]
Health effects
A 2005 study of early and late medieval remains found
Related footwear
Pattens
Sabatons
Sabatons were the protective footwear used with medieval European armor. During the period that poulaines were in fashion, the sabatons sometimes became similarly awkwardly long or pointed and interfered with soldiers' ability to walk or run. At the 1386 Battle of Sempach, it became necessary for the knights of Leopold III, Duke of Austria, to quickly dismount and fight on foot. Because they had not prepared for this, many were obliged to cut off the tips of their sabatons on the field to continue. Swiss chroniclers report a huge pile of these shoetips were found in a heap after the battle and this was illustrated in the account of the battle in the 1513 Luzerner Schilling. A surviving pair of sabatons belonging to Maximilian I, Holy Roman Emperor, have extremely long ends for use on horseback but these are detachable if fighting on foot became necessary. The catches can be seen over the area of the big toe.
-
Depiction of the 1386 Battle of Sempach in the Luzerner Schilling
See also
Notes
- Latin: Cum ista Regina venit de Boëmia in Angliam abusiones illae execrabiles, sotulares sil. cum longis rostris (Anglice Cracowys vel Pykys) dimidiam virgam largiter habentes, ita ut oporteret eos ad tibiam ligari cum cathenis argenteis, antequam cum eis possent incedere.[30]
- Latin: Habient etiam sotulares rostratas in unius digiti longitudine quae crakowes vocantur. Potius judicantur ungular... daemonum quam ornamenta hominum.[32]
- Latin: sotularibus... lateraliter rostratis...[34]
- ^ In Middle English:
Loke þou blowe mekyl bost
Wyth longe crakows on þi schos
References
Citations
- ^ a b Calasibetta, Charlotte Mankey; Phyllis Tortora (2013), "Poulaine", The Fairchild Dictionary of Fashion (3rd ed.), New York: Fairchild Publications.
- ^ a b Shawcross, Rebecca (2014), Shoes: An Illustrated History, London: Bloomsbury, p. 28.
- ^ a b "poulaine, n.", Oxford English Dictionary, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2022.
- ISBN 978-1-851-77537-8.
- ^ a b c "† crakow, n.", Oxford English Dictionary, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2020.
- ^ a b Blanks, Tim (27 June 2014), "Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Spring 2015 Menswear Fashion Show", Vogue, New York: Condé Nast.
- ^ a b c d Carlson, I. Marc (2001). "Medieval European Long Toed Shoes". Footwear of The Middle Ages.
- ^ "pike, n.¹", Oxford English Dictionary, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2023.
- ^ Coatsworth, Elizabeth; et al. (2018), "9.5 London Poulaine", Clothing the Past..., Leiden: Brill.
- ^ Owen-Cricker (2012), p. 329.
- ^ a b Snodgrass, Mary Ellen (2015), "Men's Shoes", World Clothing and Fashion..., Abingdon: Routledge, p. 516.
- ^ "beak, n.¹", Oxford English Dictionary, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2023.
- ^ "Statuette of a Striding Figure", Official site, Chicago: Art Institute of Chicago, 2023.
- ^ "Striding Figure with Ibex Horns, a Raptor Skin Draped around the Shoulders, and Upturned Boots", Official site, New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2023.
- ^ Bonfante (1975), p. 61.
- ^ Lewandowski (2011), p. 229.
- ^ a b c Yarwood (1978), p. 366.
- ^ a b c Planché (1876), p. 459.
- ^ a b c Mills (2015), p. 82.
- ^ a b Rubenstein (2019), p. 38.
- ^ Mills (2015), p. 83.
- ^ Robert de Courson (1215).
- ^ Alberigo & al. (1973).
- ^ a b c Dittmar & al. (2021).
- ^ a b Wilcox (1948), p. 65.
- ^ ISBN 9789080104464.
- ^ ISBN 9780851158389.
- ^ Bruhn & al. (1955), p. 27.
- ^ a b Chambers (2009), p. 60.
- ^ Hearne (1729), p. 126.
- ^ Chambers (2009), p. 60–61.
- ^ Haydon (1863), p. 231.
- ^ Chambers & al. (2010), p. 73.
- ^ Tait (1914), p. 16.
- ^ Chambers & al. (2010), p. 74.
- ^ ISBN 082393991X.
- ^ Klausner (2010), ll. 1058–1059.
- ^ Chambers & al. (2010), p. 81.
- ^ II Edw. IV, cap. 5.
- ^ IV Edw. IV, cap. 7.
- ^ Stow, John (1908). "Bredstreete warde". In Kingsford, C. L. (ed.). A Survey of London. Reprinted From the Text of 1603. Oxford: Clarendon. pp. 344–352.
- ^ Mays (2005).
- ^ a b c d Davis (2021).
- ^ Lester, Katherine Morris; et al. (1940), "Shoes", ... Accessories of Dress, Peoria: Manual Arts Press, p. 261.
Bibliography
- Alberigo, J.; et al., eds. (1973), "Concilium Lateranense IV a. 1215" (PDF), Conciliorum Oecumenicorum Decreta (in Latin), pp. 230–271.
- Bonfante, Larissa (1975), Etruscan Dress, Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press.
- Bruhn, Wolfgang; et al. (1955), A Pictorial History of Costume..., London: A. Zwemmer.
- Chambers, Mark (2009), "What Is This, a Betel, or a Batowe, or a Buskin Lacyd? Lexicological Confusion in Medieval Clothing Culture", Textual Healing: Studies in Medieval English Medical, Scientific, and Technical Texts, Linguistic Insights: Studies in Language and Communication, vol. 101, Bern: Peter Lang, pp. 55–74.
- Chambers, Mark; et al. (2010), "Lexicological Confusion and Medieval Clothing Culture: Redressing Medieval Dress with the Lexis of Cloth and Clothing in Britain Project", Everyday Objects: Medieval and Early Modern Material Culture and Its Meanings, ISBN 978-0754666370.
- Davis, Nicola (11 June 2021), "Medieval Fashion for Pointy Shoes Linked to Rise in Bunions", The Guardian, London: Guardian News & Media.
- Dittmar, Jenna M.; et al. (December 2021), "Fancy Shoes and Painful Feet: Hallux Valgus and Fracture Risk in Medieval Cambridge, England", International Journal of Paleopathology, vol. 35, Los Angeles: Paleopathology Association, pp. 90–100, hdl:2164/17718.
- Haydon, Frank Scott, ed. (1863), Eulogium Historiarum sive Temporis, Rerum Britannicarum Medii Aevi Scriptoris No. 9 (in Latin), vol. III, London
{{citation}}
: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link). - Hearne, Thomas, ed. (1729), Historia Vitae et Regni Ricardi II Angliae Regis (in Latin), Oxford.
- John of Reading (1914), Tait, James (ed.), Chronica Johannis de Reading et Anonymi Cantuariensis (in Latin), Manchester
{{citation}}
: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link). - Klausner, David N., ed. (2010), The Castle of Perseverence, Kalamazoo: Medieval Institute Publications.
- Lewandowski, Elizabeth J. (2011), The Complete Costume Dictionary, Lanham: Scarecrow Press.
- Mays, Simon A. (February 2005), "Paleopathological Study of Hallux Valgus", American Journal of Physical Anthropology, vol. 126, PMID 15386287.
- Mills, Robert (2015), Seeing Sodomy in the Middle Ages, Chicago: University of Chicago Press.
- Owen-Cricker, Gale R. (2012), Encyclopedia of Medieval Dress and Textiles of the British Isles c. 450–1450, Leiden: Koninklijke Brill, ISBN 978-90-04-124356.
- Planché, James Robinson (1876), A Cyclopaedia of Costume..., London: Chatto & Windus.
- Robert de Courson (1944), "Rules of the University of Paris", in Thorndyke, Lynn (ed.), University Records and Life in the Middle Ages, New York: Columbia University Press, pp. 103–105.
- Rubenstein, Jay (2019), Nebuchadnezzar's Dream: The Crusades, Apocalyptic Prophecy, and the End of History, Oxford: Oxford University Press.
- Wilcox, Ruth Turner (1948), The Mode in Footwear, New York: Charles Scribner's Sons.
- Yarwood, Doreen (1978), Illustrated Encyclopedia of World Costume, London: B.T. Batsford.