Tubâ

Source: Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.

Tubâ
TypePalm wine
Country of origin Philippines
Alcohol by volume 2%-4%[1]

Tubâ (Tagalog pronunciation:

Marianas, and Mexico via the Manila galleons. It remains popular in Mexico, especially in the states of Colima, Jalisco, Michoacán, Nayarit, and Guerrero. Tubâ was also introduced to the Torres Strait Islands of Australia in the mid-19th century by Filipino immigrant workers in the pearling industry.[2][3][4]

History

lambanóg
from tubâ (c. 1912)
Bringing "tuba" (coconut-palm sap) to market in bamboo containers, Philippines, 1923

Tubâ has existed in the Philippines since pre-colonial times. It was widely consumed for recreation as well as having played an important role in the

Visayan languages) was and continues to be an important aspect of Filipino social interactions.[5][6][7]

A peculiar and universal drinking custom of the islands is the sharing of a single drinking container. During tagayan, one person (usually the owner of the beverage) becomes the tanggero who fills a cup with a serving of alcohol (a tagay). A person in the group then drinks the cup and passes it back to the tanggero for a refill. The tanggero fills the cup again and passes it to the next person, and so on. Another practice is to drink from the same container at the same time using drinking straws made from hollow reeds or bamboo. Tagayan was usually accompanied by a shared serving of food known as pulutan. The ritual and terminology of tagayan was recorded in the Bocabulario Tagalog manuscript (1630) by Fray Miguel Ruiz, and they remain largely unchanged today. Tagayan is also related to the ancient Filipino practice of sandugo (blood compact), as both reinforce camaraderie and social bonds among participants by drinking from the same vessel.[6][7][8]

Tubâ was first recorded in European records by

distilled.[9]

"Cocoanuts are the fruit of the palmtree. Just as we have bread, wine, oil, and milk, so those people get everything from that tree. They get wine in the following manner. They bore a hole into the heart of the said palm at the top called palmito, from which distils a liquor which resembles a white must. That liquor is sweet but somewhat tart, and is gathered in canes of bamboo as thick as the leg and thicker. They fasten the bamboo to the tree at evening for the morning, and in the morning for the evening."

— Antonio Pigafetta, Il primo viaggio intorno al globo di Antonio Pigafetta e le sue regole sull'arte del navigare (1524-1525), [9]

Tubâ could be further distilled using a distinctive type of still into a palm

Manila galleons to Nueva Galicia (present-day Colima, Jalisco, and Nayarit), Mexico by Filipino immigrants who established coconut planations. It quickly became highly popular in the region. It competed with the sales of imported spirits from Spain, leading Spanish colonial authorities and the Royal Audience in Spain to ban the production of vino de coco and issue an order for the destruction of coconut plantations. By the mid-1700s, vino de coco production in Mexico had ceased (though non-alcoholic variants of tubâ persisted). The prohibition of vino de coco and the introduced distillation technologies from the Philippines led to the development of mezcal and tequila by the indigenous peoples of Mexico.[10][5][11]

Regional variations

Bahal

Bahalina, a wine made from aged tubâ with bark extracts

Bahal is a type of tubâ that is distinctively orange to brown in color because it has added extracts (barok) from the dried bark (marka tungog or tangal) of certain

Visayan regions of Visayas and Mindanao
.

Kinutil

Visayan regions of Visayas and Mindanao and is also known as kinutir, kutir, or dubado, among other names.[12][13][14]

Tuhak

Tuhak is a type of tubâ made from the sap of kaong palm (

Caraga region of Mindanao. It is collected and fermented in the same way as tubâ. However, extracts from the bark of a tree known as lamud may sometimes be added to aid in fermentation and to prevent the souring of the sap. It is also known as hidikup or hidiup in Agusan del Norte and san in Agusan del Sur.[1][8]

Tunggang

Fresh (unfermented) tunggang from Northern Mindanao

Tunggang is a type of tubâ made by the

fishtail palm (Caryota spp.) sap. It is not as popular as other varieties of tubâ because it has a relatively more unpleasant smell and taste.[8]

Outside of the Philippines

Mariana Islands

Tubâ production and coconut sap harvesting were introduced to

lambanóg; and almibad, a sweet syrup made from boiled coconut sap used in making candies and rice cakes (potu). Tubâ itself was either consumed fresh (non-alcoholic) or fermented; with the former popular to women and children, and the latter popular to men.[15][16][17]

Soon after the acquisition of Guam by the United States from Spain in 1899, aguajente was banned by the American government. Anyone caught making it would get a prison sentence and a fine. The ban remained in place for the next 40 years, restricting tubâ only to the non-alcoholic and mildly alcoholic versions. In 1939, shortly before the outbreak of World War II, taxes were also levied on tubâ-producing coconut palms, further crippling the industry. Today, tubâ is rare in the islands and its production is in decline.[17]

Mexico

Tuba fresca from Colima, Mexico; a non-alcoholic drink made from coconut sap derived from Philippine tubâ

Tubâ, along with

Iberian alcohol exporters due to tuba.[5][18][10] The distinctive Filipino-type stills used by tuba farmers were adopted by the indigenous peoples of Mexico for the distillation of other alcoholic drinks. The most notable of which is mezcal and sotol, the fermented juice of both drinks prior to distillation is still called tuba.[19]

"There are in Nueva España so many of those Indians who come from the Filipinas Islands who have engaged in making palm wine along the other seacoast, that of the South Sea, and which they make with stills, as in Filipinas, that it ill in time become a part reason for the natives of Nueva España, who now use the wine that comes from Castilla, to drink none except what the Filipinos make. For since the natives of Nueva España are a race inclined to drink and intoxication, and the wine made by the Filipinos is distilled and as strong as brandy, they crave it rather than the wine from España. . . . So great is the traffic in this [palm wine] at present on the coast at Navidad, among the Apusabalcos, and throughout Colima, that they load beasts of burden with this wine in the same way as in España. By postponing the speedy remedy that this demands, the same thing might also happen to the vineyards of Piru. It can be averted, provided all the Indian natives of the said Filipinas Islands are shipped and returned to them, that the palm groves and vessels with which that wine is made be burnt, the palm-trees felled, and severe penalties imposed on whomever remains or returns to make that wine."

Mexican tuba is also commonly sold as tuba fresca, a non-alcoholic version made from fresh coconut sap. Tuba fresca is traditionally sold by street vendors in large

bottle gourds mixed with coconut milk, ice, and sugar. It is usually topped with walnuts and diced fruit.[20][21]

Torres Strait Islands

In the mid-19th century, Filipino immigrant workers settled in the

anti-miscegenation laws and the general racism of the Australian government at the time, many Filipinos intermarried with the native Torres Strait Islanders. They also transmitted various Filipino traditions and material culture to the natives, including stories, songs, recipes, various crop plants, and new technologies.[22][23][24]

One of these technologies were the methods for producing tubâ. The Islanders, who previously had no tradition of alcohol production or consumption, quickly adopted the tubâ and all its various uses. They consumed coconut sap fresh as a non-alcoholic beverage or as a dip for mangoes; they fermented it into tubâ proper which they also called tuba; they used it as yeast to make bread rise; and they distilled it into liquor which they referred to as "steamed tuba." Even though Australian government prohibitions existed from 1837 to the 1960s banning the sale and consumption of alcohol to Indigenous Australians, it failed to stop the popularity of tuba.[22][23]

After the introduction of even more restrictive race-based laws in 1901 and the collapse of the pearl and shell market, most Filipinos started leaving Australia and returning to the Philippines. By 1912, almost all of the Filipino population was gone, along with the pearling industry, leaving only the families who intermarried with the locals and their descendants. The tradition of tuba production, however, remained. During World War II, tuba was sold by the Islanders to American servicemen stationed in the Strait who were also familiar with tuba. Tuba is still an important part of Torres Strait Islander culture today.[22][23][24]

See also

References

  1. ^ .
  2. ^ .
  3. ^ .
  4. ^ .
  5. ^ a b c Gibbs, H.D.; Holmes, W.C. (1912). "The Alcohol Industry of the Philippine Islands Part II: Distilled Liquors; their Consumption and Manufacture". The Philippine Journal of Science: Section A. 7: 19–46.
  6. ^ a b Lasco, Gideon. "Tagay: Why there's no Tagalog word for "cheers" and other notes on Filipino drinking culture". Health, Culture, and Society in the Philippines. Retrieved May 6, 2019.
  7. ^ a b Garcia, Lawrence (December 9, 2017). "Tagay: A Look at Philippine Drinking Culture". Humaling. Retrieved May 6, 2019.
  8. ^ a b c Garvan, John M. (1912). "Report on the drinks and drinking among the Mandaya, Manobo, and Mangguangan Tribes". The Philippine Journal of Science: Section A. 7: 106–114.
  9. ^
    OCLC 347382
    .
  10. ^ .
  11. .
  12. ^ "Do You Know What Kinutil Is?". Bite Sized. January 23, 2019. Retrieved May 5, 2019.
  13. ^ Damo, Ida. "Kinutil: The Filipino Mudslide Drink". ChoosePhilippines. Retrieved May 5, 2019.
  14. ^ "Comfort food ng mga Waray". Kapuso Mo, Jessica Soho. GMA Public Affairs. Retrieved May 5, 2019.
  15. ^ "Tuba: Guam's 'Water of Life' lives on". Stars and Stripes Guam. Retrieved May 6, 2019.
  16. ^ "Filipinos on Guam: Cultural contributions". Guampedia. October 2, 2009. Retrieved May 6, 2019.
  17. ^ a b "Tuba taxed, outlawed, now threatened by rhino beetle". Pacific Daily News. January 27, 2019. Retrieved May 6, 2019.
  18. ^ "Culture of Colima". Explorando Mexico. Retrieved May 5, 2019.
  19. ^
    JSTOR 209973
    .
  20. ^ Esparza, Bill. "Beyond Aguas Frescas: Two Refreshing Mexican Coolers to Try This Summer". Lamag - Culture, Food, Fashion, News & Los Angeles. Retrieved May 5, 2019.
  21. ^ "Talking Tuba". Vallarta Today. Retrieved May 5, 2019.
  22. ^
    S2CID 205438671
    .
  23. ^
    ISBN 9780980379129.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link
    )
  24. ^ .
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