Caversham, New Zealand

Coordinates: 45°54′S 170°29′E / 45.900°S 170.483°E / -45.900; 170.483
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Caversham
South Road, Caversham, looking west towards the start of the Caversham Valley
South Road, Caversham, looking west towards the start of the Caversham Valley
Map
Coordinates: 45°54′S 170°29′E / 45.900°S 170.483°E / -45.900; 170.483
CountryNew Zealand
CityDunedin
Established1850s
Area
 • Land71 ha (175 acres)
Population
 (June 2023)[2]
 • Total2,160
Balaclava
Maryhill
Mornington
Lookout Point
Caversham
Kensington
Calton Hill
Kew
South Dunedin

Caversham

South Island Main Trunk railway runs through the suburb, and a bypass skirts its main retail area, connecting Dunedin's one-way street system with the Dunedin Southern Motorway
. The suburb is linked by several bus routes to its neighbouring suburbs and central Dunedin.

The suburb was founded by wealthy pioneer

Protestant roots, led to the area's generally left-leaning political stance. Caversham's early history has been the subject of the Caversham Project, a major historical and archaeological study by the University of Otago. Caversham was a separate borough until 1904, when it was amalgamated with Dunedin city. At a national level, it is part of the Taieri
electorate.

Caversham is now predominantly residential, with some industrial premises in the east (notably the

heritage listed Lisburn House and several prominent church buildings. Another landmark is the suburb's war memorial, which is the main gate of Caversham School, the suburb's primary school. Caversham also contains a special-needs school. The nearest secondary schools operate in St Clair
, 1 kilometre (0.62 mi) to the south.

Caversham has strong sporting connections, and is the location of

.

Geography

Caversham lies at the mouth and in the lower reaches of a valley in the west of

Kew are located.[3]

The suburbs of

Balaclava and Maryhill lie to the north, close to the western end of the ridge that runs along the northern edge of central Dunedin. These hills were all once part of the rim of the Dunedin volcano, the long-extinct crater of which now forms Otago Harbour.[4] Other suburbs nearby include Forbury, South Dunedin, Kensington
, and Lookout Point.

Caversham Valley has long been the major route out of the central city to the south.

redirected traffic away from South Road, the main thoroughfare through Caversham.

The railway provides the suburb's most important industry, through the

Hillside Railway Workshops, which are located in the southeast of the suburb and in the adjoining suburb of South Dunedin. Despite this, there are no longer any public railway stations or halts in Caversham, the last station having closed in 1962.[6]

The hill slopes to the north of Caversham are less densely populated, and still retain some tree cover. This, along with the steepness of the land, forms a natural barrier between Caversham and the suburb of Maryhill. Only a few winding roads traverse this barrier, most notably Glen Road, at the eastern end of Caversham. At this end, the suburb draws close to the foot of the hills, and a natural valley, known locally as "The Glen", provides easier road access to the hill ridge.[7]

To the northeast of the Glen, a hill spur including a 20-metre (66 ft) cliff separates Caversham from the central part of the city. Though the name is rarely used, this spur is called Montecillo Ridge, named for the mansion of early settler W.H. Reynolds. It is occasionally referred to as "Hillside", after the house of the city's founding father Captain William Cargill which was located here.[8] This ridge overlooks "The Flat", as the plain stretching across to the Pacific coast was (and is still) locally known. South Road winds around the spur, connecting with the southern end of Princes Street. One of the city's older and more historic cemeteries, Dunedin Southern Cemetery, lies on the inner city side of this spur.[9]

Lookout Point

From Lookout Point, Caversham Valley Road descends rapidly. This image shows the view east across South Dunedin to Otago Harbour, with Otago Peninsula in the background.

At the top of Caversham Valley are a

Saddle Hill, as well as providing a view to the east across the southern part of the central city to Otago Harbour and the Otago Peninsula
.

The most prominent building in Lookout Point is the local fire station, which also serves both Caversham and Green Island.

Lookout Point is also the home of the former Caversham Industrial School, located to the northeast of the fire station on Mornington Road. Established in 1869, the school was later a boys' home, and is now an adult training centre.[10] Lookout Point's main streets include South Road, Caversham Valley Road, Riselaw Road, and Mornington Road.[12] A major flyover was constructed at Lookout Point in the early 2000s, allowing routes to the suburbs of Corstorphine and Maryhill to connect without having to negotiate a junction with the start of the Dunedin Southern Motorway.

The

Kāi Tahu and Kāti Māmoe iwi. He was buried here so that "his spirit might see thence his old haunts to the southward."[13]

A 3.4-hectare (8.4-acre) forest reserve is located on the upper slopes of Caversham Valley below Lookout Point. Purchased by the

Royal Forest and Bird Protection Society, it is home to various native bird and invertebrate species, including one species of velvet worm believed to be endemic to the Dunedin area.[14][15]

History

Caversham Presbyterian Church

Caversham was named for

St Clair, close to a street which now bears his name. A member of Valpy's family was born in the English Caversham.[16]

In the early days of Dunedin, it was impossible for a dray to reach the Caversham Valley in wet weather unless it went by a circuitous route around the hills. Valpy solved this problem by hiring men at his own expense to build a crude road from the southern end of Princes Street to his farm at Forbury. This formed the basis for later roads into the suburb.[17] The road curved around the edge of the hills at the Glen to avoid a large swamp, the site of which is currently occupied by Carisbrook sports ground.[8]

St. Peter's Anglican Church, Hillside Road

Settlement in the area was slow, though Caversham Valley was a preferred route south out of the city. The

Baptist denomination, followed in 1872.[18]

Several charitable organisations have had properties in Caversham, including the Otago Benevolent Institution home for invalids, and an IHC New Zealand centre at Kew Park. The Royal New Zealand Foundation of the Blind still has its Otago premises in Hillside Road.[19]

Caversham rail tunnel was designed for twin tracks but is now only used by one.

Early industries in the area included C & W Sheil's brickworks, which had quarries in Forbury, St Clair and Caversham, and Caversham Gasworks, which operated from 1882 until 1909. The last buildings of the gasworks were a local landmark, and were not removed until the construction of the Caversham bypass in the 1970s and 1980s.[20] Other noted industries in early Caversham included breweries, a tannery, and a match factory.[21]

Construction of the

South Island Main Trunk railway south of Dunedin that began in 1871 led to the construction of a 865-metre (2,838 ft) tunnel beneath Lookout Point, connecting Caversham with Green Island.[22] A second parallel 1,407-metre (4,616 ft) tunnel – the first double-track tunnel in the country – was built starting in 1907,[23] and all rail traffic moved to the new tunnel in 1910.[24] Caversham was served by its own railway station until its closure in 1962.[6] There has been a long-running campaign to have the older tunnel converted into a cycleway, though this scheme has never gained wholehearted council support.[25]

By the 1870s the population of Caversham was growing rapidly, and in 1877, with the population at around 4,000, it was declared a borough. It held this status until amalgamation with Dunedin city in 1904. The borough's area included much of modern Forbury and St Clair, as well as what is usually regarded as Caversham today.[26]

Caversham Project

The early history of the suburb and surrounding parts of southern Dunedin has been the subject of a major ongoing archaeological and historical research project into early Dunedin by the University of Otago, known simply as The Caversham Project.[27] Over the course of the last 30 years, a database has been compiled of life in early South Dunedin, focussing on the borough of Caversham. This database is unique in its size for a historical study within New Zealand or Australia,[28] containing some 9.4 gigabytes of data,[29] and has allowed for the examination and publication of details relating to the socioeconomic and demographic mix of early Dunedin.

The multidisciplinary nature of the study has resulted in information being gathered on subjects ranging from urban planning to gender studies. By using both quantitative and qualitative analyses, and by including considerable amounts of oral history, it has allowed for a vivid recreation of the society of early urban New Zealand.[27] Several books have resulted from the project, among them Sites of Gender: Women, Men and Modernity, 1890–1939, edited by B. Brookes, A. Cooper, and R. Law (Auckland University Press, 2003)[30] and Class and Occupation: The New Zealand Reality by E. Olssen and M. Hickey (University of Otago Press, 2005).[31]

Governance

In its formative days, the Caversham Road Board administered Caversham. This organisation served as a council for Caversham until May 1877, when it became a

Thomas Kay Sidey
.

The Dunedin City Council currently administers Caversham.

At a national level, Caversham was a separate electorate from 1866 to 1908. MPs for the electorate included Thomas Kay Sidey and future Premier Robert Stout. Since 1908 Caversham has been in various electorates, and is currently part of the Taieri electorate. As of 2022, its MP is Ingrid Leary (Labour).[33]

Demographics

Unlike most of Dunedin, which was settled by Scots, many early settlers in Caversham were English. This led to some degree of antagonism by the councils of the city and Caversham borough in the early days of settlement; Dunedin had been settled by the

Baptist. There is little evidence of this distinction in modern Caversham, other than the origins of local street names, several of which reflect the names of English counties and early English settlers.[34][35]

Caversham began largely as a lower-middle to working-class suburb. Many of the early residents were skilled or semi-skilled tradespeople. In its early days, Caversham was known as "The carpenters' borough", as a high proportion of the skilled workers within the borough were employed in the building trade.

humanitarian politics in the borough.[37]

The left-leaning politics of the area is still reflected to some extent in local political views. The Taieri electorate and its predecessor Dunedin South, of which Caversham is a part, tends to return New Zealand Labour Party Members of Parliament and support this and other left-of-centre parties.[38]

Many residents of Caversham are still of relatively low socio-economic status when compared to those in surrounding hill suburbs. A 2007 Dunedin City Council report indicated that a high proportion (39%) of the suburb's houses were one- or two-bedroom dwellings.[39]

The 2023 Caversham statistical area covers 0.71 km2 (0.27 sq mi)[1] and had an estimated population of 2,160 as of June 2023,[2] with a population density of 3,042 people per km2.

Historical population
YearPop.±% p.a.
20062,253—    
20132,181−0.46%
20182,265+0.76%
Source: [40]

Caversham had a population of 2,265 at the

2006 census. There were 1,029 households, comprising 1,053 males and 1,212 females, giving a sex ratio of 0.87 males per female. The median age was 43.3 years (compared with 37.4 years nationally), with 315 people (13.9%) aged under 15 years, 459 (20.3%) aged 15 to 29, 927 (40.9%) aged 30 to 64, and 558 (24.6%) aged 65 or older.[40]

Ethnicities were 81.3% European/Pākehā, 15.1% Māori, 7.4% Pasifika, 5.6% Asian, and 2.5% other ethnicities. People may identify with more than one ethnicity.[40]

The percentage of people born overseas was 16.0, compared with 27.1% nationally.[40]

Although some people chose not to answer the census's question about religious affiliation, 50.5% had no religion, 37.4% were Christian, 0.5% had Māori religious beliefs, 0.7% were Hindu, 0.7% were Muslim, 0.5% were Buddhist and 2.1% had other religions.[40]

Of those at least 15 years old, 315 (16.2%) people had a bachelor's or higher degree, and 510 (26.2%) people had no formal qualifications. The median income was $23,400, compared with $31,800 nationally. 90 people (4.6%) earned over $70,000 compared to 17.2% nationally. The employment status of those at least 15 was that 762 (39.1%) people were employed full-time, 267 (13.7%) were part-time, and 99 (5.1%) were unemployed.[40]

Education

The gates of Caversham Primary School (now Carisbrook School) serve as the suburb's war memorial.

Caversham has no secondary schools, although it does contain a primary school and a special needs school. Carisbrook School, at the corner of South Road and Surrey Street, was formed from a 2012 merger of Calton Hill School, Caversham School, and College Street School on the Caversham School site,[41] which was established in 1921. The school's predecessor dates back to the early 1860s. The roll is 312 students as of February 2024.[42][43] The school's two-storey 1920s brick buildings were pulled down and replaced in 1961, because of their structural unsoundness. The school's main gate – the only surviving remnant of the earlier structure – is the suburb's war memorial.[44]

The

Evening Star newspaper from 1893 to 1920. In 1889, Mark Cohen was a major figure behind the founding of New Zealand's first kindergarten.[46]

There are

Saint Clair, immediately to the south of Caversham.[47] The nearest secondary schools are the single-sex schools of Queen's High School[48] and King's High School,[49] located alongside each other close to the boundary between Saint Clair and South Dunedin
, 1 kilometre (0.62 mi) to the south.

Economy

Hillside Road, looking east from Forbury Corner

In its early years, Caversham was heavily industrialised, but also contained a large number of residential properties. The population included a large number of skilled tradespeople and craftspeople, and both large and small industries abounded. Local industries at the beginning of the twentieth century included a brickworks, a gasworks, breweries, a smithy, milliners, several bakeries, a tannery, a bootmakers, and Rutherford's Wax Vesta match factory at Forbury Corner. In 1900, the South Road-David Street-Forbury Corner area was home to over 50 businesses.[50]

Today, the suburb is mainly residential, though it has areas of retail and light industrial businesses. The main retail area is on South Road between the start of the rise up Caversham Valley and David Street, extending into David Street and the western end of Hillside Road (Forbury Corner, sometimes referred to as Kew Corner).

Hillside Railway Workshops
, dominates the eastern end of Hillside Road, close to which lie other, smaller, industrial sites. Beyond this is the shopping precinct of South Dunedin.

Caversham has four

public houses – considerably fewer than in its formative years.[51]
These are the Carisbrook Hotel, close to the sports ground for which it is named, Mitchell's Tavern in the South Road retail area, the Waterloo Hotel at Forbury Corner, and the Fitzroy Hotel on Hillside Road near Bathgate Park.

Sport

Looking north across Caversham to Carisbrook, from the slopes of Forbury Hill. Part of Hillside Road is visible lower left, and one end of the railway workshops is visible at the extreme centre right.

Highlanders Super Rugby franchise, and met with some opposition within Dunedin, with objections focusing largely on the cost.[53]

Other than Carisbrook, the suburb's main sports ground is Bathgate Park, which lies at the border of Caversham and South Dunedin in the southeast. There are several open areas of recreation ground and parkland, notably Kew Park at Forbury Corner[54] and Sidey Park and adjacent parkland along the northern flank of the by-pass, and there are tennis courts close to Kew Park on Thorn Street, and a croquet club between South Road and the Caversham by-pass. Kew Park is also home to one of the area's most prominent pétanque clubs.[55]

Other sporting links with the suburb include

New Zealand National Soccer League for several seasons in the 1970s with a highest final position of fourth in 1975.[56] They also played in the competition's final season (2003). Despite its name, Caversham play at Tonga Park, located in the adjacent suburb of Forbury, a ground they share with the Carisbrook-Dunedin Cricket Club. Caversham is also home to one of Dunedin's main athletics clubs.[57]

The Southern Rugby Football Club, a rugby union club, is located at Bathgate Park to the southeast of Caversham. Southern is consistently among Dunedin's stronger club sides, and has been

Landmarks

Lisburn House

Hillside Railway Workshops dominate the southeast of Caversham and the neighbouring suburb of South Dunedin. Established at this site in 1875, the workshops are the main railway construction and repair shop in the South Island. The workshops cover 8 hectares (20 acres), of which 3 hectares (7.4 acres) are covered floor space.[61]

To the north of the workshops is Carisbrook, Dunedin's former main sports venue. Opened in 1883, the ground had a capacity of 35,000 people, and was floodlit from the 1990s. Used primarily for rugby union, but also for other sports (notably as a Test cricket venue), Carisbrook lost its pre-eminence among the city's sports arenas with the construction of a new stadium in the northern end of the city in 2011; demolition began in 2013. The ground is named for the former home of early colonial settler James Macandrew, which in turn was named for Carisbrooke Castle on the Isle of Wight in southern England.[62]

Lisburn House is one of the finest surviving 1860s townhouses in New Zealand.

heritage listed. William Clayton designed the 12-room house, notable for its steeply angled slate roof and polychromatic brickwork.[63][65][66] Two other Category II heritage buildings are on Fitzroy Street: Faringdon Villa,[67] and an untitled house.[68]

Other buildings of note in Caversham include the suburb's churches. The Presbyterian church is located on Thorn Street, roughly halfway between the South Road retail area and Forbury Corner. It was built in 1883 following the destruction of the previous building by fire. The current building, built in Port Chalmers bluestone with Oamaru stone facings, was designed by T. B. Cameron.[69][70]

The ropewalk of Donaghy's Industries is one of Caversham's more unusual structures – it is over 100 times as long as it is wide.

Caversham's Anglican church, St. Peter's, is located on Hillside Road. Designed by H. F. Hardy, the foundation stone was laid in 1882. The original design called for the church to have a spire, but because of problems with the tower's foundations (which left the tower leaning 6 inches (15 cm) from the perpendicular) this was never constructed.[71][72]

Caversham Baptist church is located at the corner of South Road and Surrey Street, close to Caversham School.[73] Unusual among Dunedin buildings, this church has a formal Classical style, with its brickwork augmented by pediments and square columns. The foundation stone for the building was laid in 1906.[74] The former Baptist Church, in Playfair Street, is now used as a Gospel Hall.

A further church, located in South Dunedin close to the southeastern edge of Caversham, was the South Dunedin Wesley Methodist Church in Hillside Road.[75] This building, constructed in 1893, was threatened with demolition from 2009,[76] and finally demolished in 2017.[77]

Part of the factory of Donaghy's Industries, adjacent to the eastern edge of Bathgate Park, is notable because of its unusual shape. This structure, which is less than 4 metres (13 ft) wide yet some 380 metres (1,250 ft) in length, serves as a ropewalk for Donaghy's, who have been manufacturing rope and twine at this site since 1876.[78][79]

A somewhat controversial recent addition to Caversham was the opening, in October 2013, of Whakamana Cannabis Museum, New Zealand's first museum dedicated to the history of cannabis use. Cannabis, while still a criminalised drug in New Zealand, has moved some way towards grudging acceptance, at least as a subject for open discussion. The museum, run from a former residential house in David Street, is designed to be an information centre on aspects of the history and legislation surrounding the drug, and also a national centre for the Aotearoa Legalise Cannabis Party, a minor single-issue political party.[80]

Notable people

Test cricketer Clarrie Grimmett was born in Caversham on Christmas Day, 1891.

Noted residents in the Caversham area have included members of the Sidey family, several of whom were local or national politicians. Among these was Thomas Sidey, New Zealand Attorney General 1928–31.[81] Sidey Park, close to the northern edge of the Caversham bypass, and Sidey Street in Corstorphine are both named in his honour.

Captain William Cargill, founder of the Otago settlement, lived just to the northeast of Caversham above The Glen; his house "Hillside" gave its name to Hillside Road, which was at one time called Cargill Road.[8] The area around the site of Cargill's long-demolished house between The Glen and Kensington is still referred to as Hillside. Cargill's Corner, the major road junction at the South Dunedin end of Hillside Road, is also named in his honour.

Architect

Wanganui and the Former Post and Telegraph Building in Wellington. Noted local buildings with work by Anscombe include extensions to the University of Otago Clocktower complex in Dunedin North, the main building of Otago Girls' High School in central Dunedin, and the Allied Press building in Lower Stuart Street
, Dunedin.

Another notable local resident was surveyor and architect

Thomson's Barnyard" or "The Farmyard Patch".[84]

Among sportspeople with Caversham connections, Australian Test cricketer and 1931

"Young Vic" Cavanagh were also born in Caversham.[87]
Between them, the father and son were responsible for changes to the way the game of rugby union was played through their innovative coaching methods and tactics. The cricketer, poet, songwriter and teacher Robert J. Pope (1865–1949) was also born in Caversham.[88]

Transportation

Cars sweep southwest over the Lookout Point saddle at the start of the Dunedin Southern Motorway. The brick building on the right is the local fire station.

The suburb's main road is South Road, which at its eastern (Glen) end winds around the flanks of hills before joining with

State Highway 1 at the foot of these hills, just above Carisbrook.[89]

Hillside Road, which runs parallel with South Road several hundred metres to the south, is an arterial route connecting

A Caversham bypass was constructed in the late 1970s and early 1980s, and was officially opened in 1987.[20] It now carries State Highway 1 away from the retail heart of the suburb, connecting at its northern end with the city's one-way street system. With the construction of the bypass, Caversham Valley Road was truncated close to its junction with South Road, and the upper stretch of the road continued as part of State Highway 1, connecting the bypass with Dunedin Southern Motorway.

Until the construction of the bypass, South Road and Caversham Valley Road formed the main route out of Dunedin to the south. State Highway 1 followed South Road through the main retail area, then followed Caversham Valley Road to Lookout Point.[90] Above its retail area, South Road winds around the flank of Calton Hill; Caversham Valley Road forms a straighter, steep route that originally continued from the end of South Road's retail area. For this reason, the part of South Road running through the retail area is also sometimes referred to as part of Caversham Valley Road. Improvements to Caversham Valley Road to ease congestion and increase safety began in 2011.[91] A junction at the north end of Caversham's main retail area connects South Road with the bypass.[89]

Caversham was served by a suburban railway station on the "South Line" between Dunedin and Mosgiel. Services ceased on this line in 1982. The railway station buildings were demolished several years later.

Trams served Caversham between 1880 and 1954, operating in Hillside Road, South Road, and David Street.

Dunedin Passenger Transport run routes from the city centre to Saint Clair and Corstorphine via Hillside Road, and to Lookout Point via South Road. Dunedin passenger transport also runs services between The Octagon and both Mosgiel and Brighton via South Road. Cargill's Corner, at the South Dunedin end of Hillside Road, is a major suburban bus hub.[92]

References and notes

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  4. ^ Bishop, p. 13
  5. ^ a b Rutherford, p. 6
  6. ^ a b Rutherford, p. 37
  7. ^ Olssen, p. 21
  8. ^ a b c Herd, p. 40
  9. ^ Herd, pp. 112–113
  10. ^ a b c Sorrell, p. 302
  11. ^ Rutherford, p. 30
  12. ^ a b New Zealand Automobile Association. Greater Dunedin and Invercargill Street Directory, 1998 edition. Map 16.
  13. ^ Canon J. W. Stack (1898), quoted in Goodall, p. 18
  14. ^ Caversham Valley Forest Reserve Consultative Committee. (1996–07). Caversham Valley Forest Reserve Management Plan. Dunedin City Council. Retrieved on 2009-03-24.
  15. .
  16. ^ Reed, p.72. Some sources (e.g., Erik Olssen op.cit. p. 19) say that Valpy's wife was born in Caversham, Berkshire; Reed says that it was his mother who was born there.
  17. ^ Rutherford, p. 5.
  18. ^ Rutherford, pp. 11–13
  19. ^ Royal New Zealand Foundation of the Blind. "How To Find Us". Retrieved on 2009-03-23.
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  62. CricInfo. (2005–05). "Carisbrook, Dunedin
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  64. ^ Galer, pp. 84–85
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  68. ^ "House". New Zealand Heritage List/Rārangi Kōrero. Heritage New Zealand. Retrieved 28 March 2009.
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Works cited

External links