Face powder
Face powder is a cosmetic product applied to the face to serve different functions, typically to beautify the face. Originating from ancient Egypt,[citation needed] face powder has had different social uses across cultures and in modern times, it is typically used to set makeup, brighten the skin and contour the face. Face powders generally come in two main types. One of which is loose powder, which is used to assist with oily skin in absorbing excess moisture and mattifying the face to reduce shininess. The other is pressed powder which conceals blemishes and maximises coverage.[1]
The use of face powder has contributed to beauty standards throughout history. In ancient Europe and Asia, a whitened face with a smooth complexion signalled a woman of high status.[2] The prevalence of this trend was carried throughout the Crusades and Medieval era. During this time, women used harmful ingredients as face powder including bleaches, lead and lye.[3]
Early history
Egypt
Archaeological remains and chemical analyses indicate the use of face powder dating back from between 2000 and 1200 BC, and include lead fibres, a common cosmetic ingredient used in ancient Egypt.[4] Kohl jars used to store eyeliner as well as stone containers holding face powder were discovered in graves as this promised the ancient Egyptians eternal beauty in the afterlife.[4] Men and women used an early form of rouge powdered blush for their cheeks which was made from red ochre.[5] Greek queen Cleopatra heavily influenced the ancient Egyptian beauty standard with a distinctive make-up style, inspiring the ancient Egyptians to paint their eyes with green and blue powders.[6] Face powder was also considered to have medicinal purposes to protect people from illness.[4]
Greece
Ancient Egyptian beauty trends travelled across the Mediterranean and influenced cosmetic practices in Greece. Using similar ingredients, ancient Greeks used cinnabar as a powdered rouge for the face as well as brightening their complexion with white lead.[5] While the desire for a white complexion represented social ideas about race superiority, skin tone also enforced gender as in ancient times, women were paler than men, due to having less haemoglobin.[5] A sign of belonging to the upper class was white, unblemished skin free from sun-exposure, as it was the life of wealthy women that involved staying indoors. Traces of the skin-lightening face powder made from white lead have been uncovered from the graves of wealthy ancient Greek women.[7] The city of Athens was nearby the Laurion mines, from which the Greeks extracted vast amounts of silver and obtained a great deal of their wealth through trade. White lead was found in the mines as a by-product of the silver,[8] from which ancient Greeks produced face powder. The use of face powder also appears in the work of ancient Greek writers. Writer and historian Xenophon writes of women who "rubbed in white lead to the face to appear whiter".[9] In his book Oeconominicus, Ancient Greek poet Eubulus in his play Stephanopolides compares lower class and upper-class women, declaring that poor women "are not plastered over with white lead".[10] While it was known the white lead was poisonous, the ancient Greeks were not deterred from applying the face powder to fulfil their beauty standards.[11]
Rome
The ancient Roman use of face powder was centred around the Roman ideal of femininity and beauty standards, expressing signs of social and health status.[12] The pale complexion was desired by Roman women and is frequently expressed in the poetry of ancient Roman poet Ovid.[2] Small glass jars and brushes from archaeological remains suggest the storage and use of face powder.[13] Ancient Roman poets Juvenal and Martial mention a mistress named "Chione" in their works, which literally translates to "snowy" or "cold",[12] referring to the desired fair complexion of ancient Roman women. Skin whitening as well as sun-blocking were practiced by applying face powder in the form of cerussa, which was a mix of white lead shavings and vinegar.[12] Roman women wished to conceal blemishes and freckles, as well as smoothing the skin using this powder. Chalk was also used to whiten the skin, as well as powdered ash and saffron on the eyes.[13]
China
Ancient Chinese women desired whitened skin for beauty as their use of face powder dates back to the Spring and Autumn period from 770 to 476 BC.[14] An early form of face powder was prepared by grinding fine rice which was applied to the face.[15] In addition, pearls were crushed to create pearl powder that improved facial appearance and was also used as a medicine to treat eye diseases, acne and tuberculosis.[citation needed] Chinese empress Wu Zetian used pearl powder to maintain radiant skin.[16] Lead was also a common ingredient used for face powder and remained popular for its skin-whitening properties.[15]
Renaissance
At a time of prevalent disease, beauty in the
Recent history
20th century
During the
In the 1930s, face powder remained a staple cosmetic product and its increased demand raised health concerns about lead based powders that were still in use.
Following the Second World War, rationing in America had ceased and the cosmetic industry flourished.[31] With the popularity of female Hollywood stars including Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn, American television culture influenced the 1950s beauty trend of clear, beautified skin.[31] Max Factor, the leading cosmetic brand at the time, introduced the Crème Puff, the first ever multipurpose face powder that offered an all-in-one base, setting and finishing powder.[32] The 1970s that saw a widespread inclusion of diversity with new cosmetic brands offering face powder with darker shades.[33] By 1977, cosmetics for black women became a $1.5 billion industry, with darker shades of powders, foundation and lipsticks available in stores around the US.[33] By the 1990s, face powder became a staple cosmetic product for not only concealing blemishes but setting makeup in place.[34] The Australian Government's National Industrial Chemicals Notification and Assessment Scheme was established in 1990 to ensure that industrial chemicals used in face powders and other cosmetics are safe for citizens to use.[35]
21st century
The changing conceptions of masculinity during the 2000s led to evolving beauty trends that saw cosmetic products sold to men including facial scrubs, face powders and eye shadow.[36] The use of face makeup has expanded to include males who desire an enhanced look, using face powder to achieve a chiselled complexion.[37] As cosmetics in contemporary society are diverse in shade range options, modern face powder enhances natural skin tones and most brands cater for all skin types. 21st century cosmetic trends are heavily influenced by beauty icons and the face powder application technique known as ‘baking’ has been popularised by socialite Kim Kardashian West.[38] Baking involves patting translucent face powder under the eyes, the 'T' zone, beneath the cheek bones, along the jawline and on the sides of the nose, allowing it to sit for a few minutes while the foundation is absorbed by the skin's body heat, then brushing it off.[39] This technique creates a pore-less and creaseless look that is a desired make-up beauty standard in modern times.
Modern uses
Modern face powders are currently available in different types to serve multiple functions. The six main types of face powder include loose powder, pressed powder, mineral powder, translucent powder, HD powder and finishing powder.
Loose powder
Loose powder can be translucent or coloured and is generally packaged in a jar.[40] It has a fine consistency with small particles and is used to give light coverage to the skin for a smooth, silky texture.[40] Coloured loose powders work to minimise redness by colour-correcting.[41] Loose powder is also used to set make-up, meaning it locks in the foundation and concealer underneath to smoothen out the complexion and limit cracks and lines in the skin.[41]
Pressed powder
Pressed powder is available in different shades and is sold in a compound container. It is compressed to provide a travel-friendly product for on-the-go touch-ups.[42] Pressed powders give coverage to the face, concealing blemishes and discolouration, therefore can be used as a light coverage foundation.[43] The particles in pressed powder are larger than those in loose powder and can give off a thick, clotted appearance when overused.[41] Pressed powder can also be used for setting makeup.
Mineral powder
Mineral powder comes in a loose powder form consisting of vitamins and minerals. It contains a mix of iron, zinc and titanium dioxides, as well as talc, providing health benefits to the skin including anti-inflammatory qualities.[44] Mineral powders also limit the clogging of pores and are usually fragrance and preservative free.[44]
Translucent powder
Translucent powder is available in both pressed and loose forms. Its use is to mattify the skin to reduce oiliness and shine.[42] It can be used for the 'baking' application technique, by brightening up certain areas of the face, offering a long-lasting wear.[45]
HD powder
High definition powder is mainly used for people featuring in high-definition film and video to prevent camera flashback, which is the white patches of powdered areas that are highlighted by a camera flash.[citation needed] Available in both pressed and loose forms, HD powder can reduce skin shininess, soften out the skin and mattify it.[citation needed]
Finishing powder
Finishing powder is mainly used to minimise fine lines and pores. It can even out the skin texture and blur out imperfections, used as a final product to complete makeup.[45] It is available in both pressed and loose forms.
Ingredients
Toxic and harmful chemicals are rare in face powders today.[46] Modern powders contain ingredients that can conceal blemishes and smoothen out the skin due to their absorbency.[47] The most common ingredients used to make face powder include the following.
Ingredient | Component | Other names |
---|---|---|
Silica[48] | Silica oxide[49] | Quartz, Silicic oxide, crystalline silica, pure silica, silicea, silica sand |
Starch[1] | Polymeric carbohydrate[50] | Amylum |
Talc[46] | Silicate mineral[51] | French chalk[46] |
Dimethicone[48] | Polymer, silicone[52] | PDMS, dimethylpolysiloxane, E900 |
Zirconium silicate[1]
|
Zircon[53] | Zircon, zirconium orthosilicate |
Zinc oxide[47] | Zincite[54] | Zinc white, calamine, philosopher's wool, Chinese white, flowers of zinc |
Titanium dioxide[47] | Rutile and anatase[55] | Titanium oxide, titania, rutile, anatase, brookite |
Kaolin[48] | Silicate, oxygen, alumina octahedra[56] | Kaolinite |
Magnesium Carbohydrate[48] | Magnesium and carbonate salt[57] | Magnesite |
See also
References
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