Smithfield, London
Smithfield | |
---|---|
Smithfield Meat Market | |
Location within Greater London | |
Sui generis | |
Administrative area | Greater London |
Region | |
Country | England |
Sovereign state | United Kingdom |
Post town | LONDON |
Postcode district | EC1 |
Dialling code | 020 |
Police | City of London |
Fire | London |
Ambulance | London |
UK Parliament | |
London Assembly | |
Smithfield, properly known as West Smithfield,[1] is a district located in Central London, part of Farringdon Without, the most westerly ward of the City of London, England.
Smithfield is home to a number of City institutions, such as
The area has borne witness to many
Smithfield Market, a
Smithfield area
In the Middle Ages, it was a broad
Religious history
In 1123, the area near Aldersgate was granted by King Henry I for the foundation of St Bartholomew's Priory at the request of Prior Rahere, in thanks for his being nursed back to good health. The Priory exercised its right to enclose land between the vicinity of the boundary with Aldersgate Without (to the east), Long Lane (to the north) and modern-day Newgate Street (to the south), erecting its main western gate which opened onto Smithfield, and a postern on Long Lane. By facing the open space of Smithfield and by having 'its back to' the buildings lining Aldersgate Street, the Priory site has left a continuing legacy of limited connectivity between the Smithfield area and Aldersgate Street.
The Priory thereafter held the manorial rights to hold weekly fairs, which initially took place in its outer court on the site of present-day Cloth Fair,[10] leading to "Fair Gate".[11]
An additional annual celebration, the
In 1855, however, the City authorities closed Bartholomew Fair as they considered it to have degenerated into a magnet for debauchery and public disorder.[12][13]
In 1348,
Nearby and to the north of this demesne, the
By the end of the 14th century, these religious houses were regarded by City traders as interlopers – occupying what had previously been public open space near one of the City gates. On numerous occasions vandals damaged the Charterhouse, eventually demolishing its buildings. By 1405, a stout wall was built to protect the property and maintain the privacy of the Order, particularly its church where men and women alike came to worship.[14]
The religious houses were dissolved in the
With the monks expelled, Charterhouse was requisitioned and remained as a private dwelling until its reestablishment by
From its inception, the Priory of St Bartholomew treated the
The Priory's principal church, St Bartholomew-the-Great, was reconfigured after the
After the
Following the diminished influence of the ancient Priory, predecessor of the two parishes of St Bartholomew, disputes began to arise over rights to tithes and taxes payable by lay residents who claimed allegiance with the nearby and anciently associated parish of
Smithfield and its market, situated mostly in the
Civil history
As a large
Along with
Religious dissenters (
It is foolish, generally speaking, for a philosopher to set fire to another philosopher in Smithfield Market because they do not agree in their theory of the universe. That was done very frequently in the last decadence of the Middle Ages, and it failed altogether in its object.
— Heretics 1905
On 17 November 1558, several Protestant heretics were saved by a royal herald's timely announcement that Queen Mary had died shortly before the
By the 18th century, the "Tyburn Tree" (near the present-day Marble Arch) became the main place for public executions in London.[35] After 1785, executions were again moved, this time to the gates of Newgate prison, just to the south of Smithfield.
The Smithfield area emerged largely unscathed by the
West Smithfield Bars
Until the 19th century, the area included boundary markers known as the West Smithfield Bars (or more simply, Smithfield Bars).[36] These marked the northern boundary of the City of London and were placed at a point approximating to where modern Charterhouse Street meets St John Street, which was historically the first stretch of the Great North Road. The Bars were on the route of the former Fagswell Brook, a tributary of the Fleet, which marked the City's northern boundary in the area.
The Bars are first documented in 1170[36] and 1197,[37] and were a site of public executions.[38]
Today
Since the late 1990s, Smithfield and neighbouring Farringdon have developed a reputation for being a cultural hub for up-and-coming professionals, who enjoy its bars, restaurants and nightclubs.
Nightclubs such as
Smithfield has also become a venue for sporting events. Until 2002 Smithfield hosted the midnight start of the annual
Number 1, West Smithfield is head office of the Churches Conservation Trust.
Market
Origins
Meat has been traded at Smithfield Market for more than 800 years, making it one of the oldest markets in London.[40] A livestock market occupied the site as early as the 10th century.
In 1174 the site was described by William Fitzstephen as:
a smooth field where every Friday there is a celebrated rendezvous of fine horses to be traded, and in another quarter are placed vendibles of the peasant, swine with their deep flanks, and cows and oxen of immense bulk.[40]
Costs, customs and rules were meticulously laid down. For instance, for an ox, a cow or a dozen sheep one could get 1 penny.[41] The livestock market expanded over the centuries to meet demand from the growing population of the City. In 1710, the market was surrounded by a wooden fence containing the livestock within the market. Until the market's abolition, the Gate House at Cloth Fair ("Fair Gate") employed a chain (le cheyne) on market days.[11] Daniel Defoe referred to the livestock market in 1726 as being "without question, the greatest in the world",[42] and data available appear to corroborate his statement.
Between 1740 and 1750 the average yearly sales at Smithfield were reported to be around 74,000 cattle and 570,000 sheep.[43] By the middle of the 19th century, in the course of a single year 220,000 head of cattle and 1,500,000 sheep would be "violently forced into an area of five acres, in the very heart of London, through its narrowest and most crowded thoroughfares".[44] The volume of cattle driven daily to Smithfield started to raise major concerns.
The
Local campaigning against the cattle market
In the Victorian period, pamphlets started circulating in favour of the removal of the livestock market and its relocation outside of the City, due to its extremely poor hygienic conditions[43] as well as the brutal treatment of the cattle.[46] The conditions at the market in the first half of the 19th century were often described as a major threat to public health:
Of all the horrid abominations with which London has been cursed, there is not one that can come up to that disgusting place, West Smithfield Market, for cruelty, filth, effluvia, pestilence, impiety, horrid language, danger, disgusting and shuddering sights, and every obnoxious item that can be imagined; and this abomination is suffered to continue year after year, from generation to generation, in the very heart of the most Christian and most polished city in the world.[47]
In 1843, the Farmer's Magazine published a petition signed by bankers, salesmen, butchers,
Our ancestors appear, in sanitary matters, to have been wiser than we are. There exists, amongst the Rolls of Parliament of the year 1380, a petition from the citizens of London, praying – that, for the sake of the public health, meat should not be slaughtered nearer than "Knyghtsbrigg", under penalty, not only of forfeiting such animals as might be killed in the "butcherie", but of a year's imprisonment. The prayer of this petition was granted, audits penalties were enforced during several reigns.[44]
Thomas Hood wrote in 1830 an Ode to the Advocates for the Removal of Smithfield Market, applauding those "philanthropic men" who aim at removing to a distance the "vile Zoology" of the market and "routing that great nest of Hornithology".[48] Charles Dickens criticised locating a livestock market in the heart of the capital in his 1851 essay A Monument of French Folly drawing comparisons with the French market at Poissy outside Paris:
Of a great Institution like Smithfield, [the French] are unable to form the least conception. A Beast Market in the heart of Paris would be regarded an impossible nuisance. Nor have they any notion of slaughter-houses in the midst of a city. One of these benighted frog-eaters would scarcely understand your meaning, if you told him of the existence of such a British bulwark.[49]
An
Victorian Smithfield: meat and poultry market
Metropolitan Meat and Poultry Market Act 1860 | |
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Act of Parliament | |
Dates | |
Royal assent | 13 August 1860 |
Text of statute as originally enacted |
The present Smithfield
The Grade II listed main wings (known as East and West Market) are separated by the Grand Avenue, a wide roadway roofed by an elliptical arch with decorations in cast iron. At the two ends of the arcade, four prominent statues represent London, Edinburgh, Liverpool and Dublin; they depict bronze dragons charged with the City's armorial bearings. At the corners of the market, four octagonal pavilion towers were built, each with a dome displaying carved stone griffins.
As the market was being built, a
The first extension of Smithfield's meat market took place between 1873 and 1876 with the construction of the Poultry Market immediately west of the Central Market. A rotunda was built at the centre of the old Market Field (now West Smithfield), comprising gardens, a fountain and a ramped carriageway to the station beneath the market building. Further buildings were subsequently added to the market. The General Market, built between 1879 and 1883, was intended to replace the old Farringdon Market located nearby and established for the sale of fruit and vegetables when the earlier Fleet Market was cleared to enable the laying out of Farringdon Street between 1826–1830.[56]
A further block (also known as Annexe Market or Triangular Block,) consisting of two separate structures (the Fish Market and the Red House), was built between 1886 and 1899. The Fish Market, built by
20th century
During the
Towards the very end of the Second World War, a
On 23 January 1958, a fire broke out in the basement of Union Cold Storage Co at the Smithfield Poultry Market. The fire spread throughout the maze of basements under the market and burned for three days. Over 1,700 fire fighters with 389 fire engines were required to bring the blaze under control. Two firefighters were killed and 50 were injured or treated for smoke inhalation. The market was largely destroyed, and large portions not directly affected by fire collapsed as basements caved in. The introduction of breathing apparatus by the London Fire Brigade was a direct result of the fire.
A red plaque commemorating the two firefighters who died was unveiled at the market on the 60th anniversary of the fire.[64][65] A replacement building was designed by Sir Thomas Bennett in 1962–63,[66] with a reinforced concrete frame, and external cladding of dark blue brick. It is Grade II listed. The main hall is covered by an enormous concrete dome, shaped as an elliptical paraboloid, spanning 225 feet (69 m) by 125 feet (38 m) and only 3 inches (7.6 cm) thick at the centre. The dome is believed to have been the largest concrete shell structure built at that time in Europe.[67]
Today
Smithfield is the City of London's only major wholesale market (
The buildings stand above a warren of
Some of the former meat market buildings have now changed use. For example, the former Central Cold Store, on Charterhouse Street is now, most unusually, a city centre cogeneration power station operated by Citigen.[69] The Metropolitan Cold Stores was converted in 1999 into the nightclub Fabric[70] and the 'Smiths' of Smithfield bars and restaurants.[71]
Smithfield comprises the market as its central feature, surrounded by many old buildings on three sides and a public open space (or Rotunda Garden) at West Smithfield, beneath which there is a public car park.
The north and south of the square are now closed to through traffic, as part of the City's security and
Future
In early 2019, it was proposed in plans put forward by the Court of Common Council, the City of London Corporation's main decision-making body, that
and received outline permission in March 2021.Demolition and development plans
Since 2005, the General Market (1883) and the adjacent Fish Market and Red House buildings (1898), part of the Victorian complex of the Smithfield Market, have been facing a threat of demolition. The City of London Corporation, ultimate owners of the property, has been engaged in public consultation to assess how best to redevelop their disused property and regenerate the area. Former property developers Thornfield Properties had planned to demolish the historic site and build a seven-storey office block, offering 350,000 square feet (33,000 m2) of office space, with a retail outlet on the ground floor.[76]
Several campaigns, promoted by English Heritage[77] and Save Britain's Heritage[56] among others,[78][79] were run to raise public awareness of this part of London's Victorian heritage. Grade II listed building protection was approved for the Red House Cold Store building in 2005 by then-Culture Secretary Tessa Jowell, on the basis of new historical evidence qualifying the complex as "the earliest existing example of a purpose-built powered cold store".[80]
Whilst the market continues to trade, its future remains unclear following government Planning Minister
On 12 October 2012, Henderson Group unveiled its £160 million-plan for redeveloping the western side of the Central Market. Henderson proposed that the fish market, General Market and Red House buildings, all over a century old, be demolished to make way for restaurants, retailers and office buildings, while they would restore and retain much of the market building's original perimeter walls, with a new piazza being created in the General Market.[84] Marcus Binney of the campaign group Save Britain's Heritage said: "This proposal constitutes the worst mutilation of a Victorian landmark in the last 30 years."[85]
Some of the buildings on Lindsey Street opposite the East Market were demolished in 2010 to allow the construction of the new
In March 2015, the Museum of London revealed plans to vacate its Barbican site at 150 London Wall and move into the General Market Building.[87][88] The Barbican site closed on 4 December 2022, to prepare for the subsequent move.[89][87] The foundation stone for its new West Smithfield site was unveiled on 16 October 2023, with the reopening of the museum at the new site still planned for 2026.[90]
Cultural references
Words and phrases
- Smithfield bargain originally referred to a deal in which the purchaser was exploited. The term later came to mean (in reference to the meat market) a marriage of convenience, one to the groom's financial benefit. In this context it was also known as a Smithfield Match. Still later the term came to be used to refer to improper dealings, such as when MPs allowed their vote to be bought.[91]
- Smithfield Races, an alternative name for the old horse market. It originated in the distant past, when there was horse racing at Smithfield. Although the racing ceased as the surrounding area steadily developed, the name continued to be used for a long time afterwards.[92]
In film
Episode 1 of Espionage (TV series), "The Incurable One", (broadcast in the UK on the 5th. of October, 1963), includes footage of Steven Hill, and Ingrid Thulin walking towards, through, and out of the market into the area.[citation needed]
Gallery
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The Central Market and Grand Avenue from the south
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The entrance of the Grand Avenue from the south
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Inside the Poultry Market
-
Market interior
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The General Market (now abandoned)
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Inside the General Market (now abandoned)
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East Poultry Avenue
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Butchers' Hall
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St Bartholomew the Great Priory Church's cloisters and Barts Hospital
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St Bartholomew the Less & Barts Hospital
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St John's Gate
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Charterhouse Square
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The Port of London Authority building
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The former Central Cold Store, currently a power station
See also
- Farringdon Without Ward
- List of markets in London
- List of people executed in Smithfield
- Wife selling[93] appeared in satire as occurring at Smithfield Market, during the 18th century.[94]
References
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- ^ Prynn, Jonathan (9 July 2014). "Eric Pickles throws out £160m Smithfield Market scheme". www.standard.co.uk.
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- ^ "www.orderofstjohn.org". Archived from the original on 6 October 2014.
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Further reading
- Charles Knight, ed. (1842), "Smithfield", London, vol. 2, London: C. Knight & Co.
- Thornbury, George Walter; Walford, Edward (1878). "42: Smithfield". Old and New London: Volume 2. London: Cassell, Petter & Galpin. Retrieved 14 January 2021 – via British History Online.
External links
- Smithfield Market page on the City of London website
- Victorian London: Smithfield Market: literary quotations about Smithfield.
- Smithfield Market in pictures: A portfolio of black-and-white photos featuring the market and the people who worked there in the earlier 1990s.
- Map and aerial photos