Mackenzie River
Mackenzie River Fort Providence | |
---|---|
• coordinates | 61°12′15″N 117°22′31″W / 61.20417°N 117.37528°W |
• elevation | 156 m (512 ft) |
2nd source | Most distant source of the Mackenzie–Slave–Peace–Finlay–Thutade system |
• location | Headwater of Thutade Creek: a glacier snout on the south-west slopes of Alma Peak. |
• coordinates | 56°44′53″N 127°30′38″W / 56.74806°N 127.51056°W |
• elevation | 1,990 m (6,530 ft) |
Mouth | Arctic Ocean |
• location | Beaufort Sea, Inuvik Region |
• coordinates | 68°56′23″N 136°10′22″W / 68.93972°N 136.17278°W |
• elevation | 0 m (0 ft) |
Length | 4,241 km (2,635 mi)[1] |
Basin size | 1,783,912 km2 (688,772 sq mi) to 1,805,200 km2 (697,000 sq mi)[1][2] |
Width | |
• minimum | 500 m (1,600 ft)[1][3] |
• average | 1,600 m (5,200 ft) to 3,200 m (10,500 ft)[2] |
• maximum | 6,000 m (20,000 ft) to 7,000 m (23,000 ft)[3] |
Depth | |
• average | 8 m (26 ft) to 9 m (30 ft)[1] |
• maximum | 40 m (130 ft) to 45 m (148 ft)[1][3] |
Discharge | |
• location | Mackenzie Delta, Beaufort Sea, Canada |
• average | (Period of data: 1948-1988)10,338 m3/s (365,100 cu ft/s)[4]
(Period of data: 1984-2018)310 km3/a (9,800 m3/s)[4] (Period of data: 1973-2011)10,300 m3/s (360,000 cu ft/s)[5][1] 9,910 m3/s (350,000 cu ft/s)[1] to 12,000 m3/s (420,000 cu ft/s)[6] |
Discharge | |
• location | Tsiigehtchic (Arctic Red - Basin size: 1,680,000 km2 (650,000 sq mi) to 1,717,754 km2 (663,229 sq mi)[4]) |
• average | (Period of data: 1971-2015)9,211 m3/s (325,300 cu ft/s)[4] (Period of data: 1940-2017)288 km3/a (9,100 m3/s)[4] |
• minimum | 2,180 m3/s (77,000 cu ft/s)[7] |
• maximum | 35,000 m3/s (1,200,000 cu ft/s)[7] |
Discharge | |
• location | Fort Simpson (Basin size: 1,270,000 km2 (490,000 sq mi)[8] |
• average | (Period of data: 1938-2000) 6,768.85 m3/s (239,040 cu ft/s)[8] |
• minimum | 1,590 m3/s (56,000 cu ft/s)[8] |
• maximum | 19,700 m3/s (700,000 cu ft/s)[8] |
Basin features | |
Tributaries | |
• left | Liard River, Keele River, Arctic Red River, Peel River |
• right | Great Bear River |
The Mackenzie River (French: Fleuve (de) Mackenzie;
The Mackenzie River flows through a vast, thinly populated region of forest and
The ultimate source of the Mackenzie River is
Economic development remains limited along the river. During the 19th century, fur trading became a lucrative business, but this was affected by harsh weather conditions.[11] The discovery of oil at Norman Wells in the 1920s began a period of industrialization in the Mackenzie valley. Metallic minerals have been found along the eastern and southern edges of the basin; these include uranium, gold, lead, and zinc. Agriculture remains prevalent along the south, particularly in the Peace River area. Various tributaries and headwaters of the river have been developed for hydroelectricity production, flood control and irrigation.
Geography
Headwaters
Through its many tributaries, the Mackenzie River basin covers portions of five Canadian provinces and territories —
The Peace and Athabasca meet at the
Main stem
The Mackenzie River issues from the western end of Great Slave Lake about 150 kilometres (93 mi) south-west of Yellowknife. The channel is initially several kilometres wide but narrows to about 800 metres (2,600 ft) at Fort Providence, which was historically an important ferry crossing in the summer, and used as an ice bridge in the winter for traffic along the Yellowknife Highway. In 2012 the Deh Cho Bridge was completed at a point about 10 kilometres (6.2 mi) upstream, providing a safer permanent crossing. It is the only bridge across the main stem of the Mackenzie.[19] West of Fort Providence the Mackenzie widens considerably, resembling a shallow, swampy lake more than a river; one large widening here is known as Mills Lake.[20]

After heading west for about 100 kilometres (62 mi) the Mackenzie narrows and turns northwest through a long stretch of fast water and rapids, past the village of
The river continues west-northwest until its confluence with the
The Mackenzie widens considerably to about 6 to 7 kilometres (3.7 to 4.3 mi) at
About 30 kilometres (19 mi) northwest of Tsiigehtchic is Point Separation, the head of the vast Mackenzie River Delta, whose branching channels, ponds and wetlands spread across more than 12,000 square kilometres (4,600 sq mi) of the coastal plain. The delta is nearly 210 kilometres (130 mi) from north to south, and ranges in width from 50 to 80 kilometres (31 to 50 mi). It is the second biggest Arctic delta in the world, after the Lena River delta in Russia. Most land in the Mackenzie delta consists of permafrost, which reaches as deep as the bedrock. A characteristic feature of the delta is its numerous pingos, or hills of earth-covered-ice – some 1,400 of them.[22] The Peel River, carrying much of the runoff from the northern Yukon, joins in the delta at a point northeast of Fort McPherson. Below there, the Mackenzie diverges into several large channels with the largest heading north-northeast, emptying into the Beaufort Sea west of Tuktoyaktuk.[23][24][25][26] The Mackenzie Delta contains a logjam with 400,000 caches of wood, which stores 3.4 million tons of carbon, equivalent to a year's emissions from 2.5 million cars.[27]
Drainage basin

At 1,805,000 square kilometres (697,000 sq mi), the Mackenzie River drainage basin encompasses nearly 20 percent of Canada.[10] About 980,000 square kilometres (380,000 sq mi), or 54 percent of the basin, lies above Great Slave Lake.[28] Permafrost underlies about three-quarters of the watershed, reaching up to 100 metres (330 ft) deep in the Mackenzie Delta.[23] As a whole, the Mackenzie basin receives only meager to moderate rainfall, averaging 410 millimetres (16 in) over the entire basin, though mountain areas experience much higher precipitation, and areas near and north of the Arctic Circle receive much lower precipitation.[29]
The Mackenzie drainage basin is bordered by multiple major North American watersheds. Much of the western edge of the Mackenzie basin runs along the Continental Divide. The divide separates the Mackenzie watershed from that of the Yukon River, which flows to the Bering Strait; and the Fraser River and Columbia River systems, both of which empty into the Pacific Ocean.[30] Lowland divides in the north separate the Mackenzie basin from the Arctic Ocean watersheds of the Anderson, Horton, Coppermine and Back Rivers. In the east, the Mackenzie borders on the Hudson Bay watersheds of the Thelon and Churchill Rivers, and to the south it is bordered by the Saskatchewan–Nelson River system, which also empties into Hudson Bay.[24][30] The Mackenzie system is hydrologically connected to the Hudson Bay watershed via Wollaston Lake, which is not only the source of the Fond du Lac tributary of Lake Athabasca, but also of the Cochrane River, which flows east into the Churchill River.
The eastern portion of the Mackenzie basin is dominated by vast reaches of lake-studded
Flow characteristics
The river discharges more than 325 cubic kilometres (78 cu mi) of water each year, accounting for roughly 11% of the total river flow into the Arctic Ocean.[32][33] The river is frozen for most of the year, with the ice typically breaking up by early to mid-May in the south, and late May-early June in the north.[34] Ice breaks up earlier on the tributaries, sometimes causing ice jams and flooding where they meet the Mackenzie. In the middle of the larger lakes, such as Great Slave, ice can persist as late as mid-June. The river typically freezes by late October or November, starting in the north. Year round, the Mackenzie's outflow has a major stabilizing effect in the local climate above the Arctic Ocean with large amounts of warmer fresh water mixing with the cold seawater.[23]

The average flow rate at the mouth is 9,910 m3/s (350,000 cu ft/s), the second largest in Canada after the
During peak flow in the spring, the difference in discharge between the two halves of the watershed becomes even more marked. While large amounts of snow and glacial melt dramatically drive up water levels in the Mackenzie's western tributaries, large lakes to the east retard springtime discharges. Spring floods from the Peace-Athabasca system are significantly slowed by the delta area at the western end of Lake Athabasca causing the lake to rise, and the excess water can only flow out after the rivers have receded.[37] The same phenomenon occurs at Great Slave Lake, which naturally regulates the flow from the Slave River into the Mackenzie.
There are river gauges at several upstream points along the Mackenzie River. The average flow rate at the outlet of Great Slave Lake is 4,269 m3/s (150,800 cu ft/s).[28] At Fort Simpson, below the Liard River, it is 6,769 m3/s (239,000 cu ft/s).[38] At Norman Wells it is 8,446 m3/s (298,300 cu ft/s),[39] and at the Arctic Red confluence it is 8,926 m3/s (315,200 cu ft/s).[40]
Mackenzie monthly mean discharge at Arctic Red River (m3/s)[40]

Geology
As recently as the
Today's Mackenzie River is very young in geologic terms – its channel formed over a period of no more than several thousand years as the ice sheet retreated. Prior to the ice ages, only the Peel River tributary flowed through what is now the Mackenzie Delta into the Arctic Ocean. The other tributaries of the Mackenzie combined into the "Bell River" which flowed east into Hudson Bay. During glaciation the weight of the ice sheet depressed northern Canada's terrain to such an extent that when the ice retreated, the Mackenzie system was captured to lower elevations in the northwest, establishing the present flow direction to the Arctic.[42]
Fluvial deposits and other erosional evidence indicate that around the end of the Pleistocene, about 13,000 years ago, the Mackenzie channel was scoured by one or more massive glacial lake outburst floods unleashed from Lake Agassiz, formed by melting ice west of the present-day Great Lakes. At its peak, Agassiz had a greater volume than all present-day freshwater lakes combined.[43] This is believed to have disrupted currents in the Arctic Ocean and led to an abrupt 1,300-year-long cold temperature shift called the Younger Dryas.[44]
The Mackenzie carries a very large sediment load, transporting about 128 million tonnes each year to its delta.[21] The Liard River alone accounts for 32 percent of the total, and the Peel River about 20 percent.[21] Essentially all of the sediment is contributed by areas downstream of Fort Providence, since upstream sediment is trapped in Great Slave Lake.
Ecology
The Mackenzie River's watershed is considered one of the largest and most intact ecosystems in North America, especially the northern half. Approximately 63% of the drainage basin, or 1,137,000 square kilometres (439,000 sq mi), is forested (mostly
Most of the taiga consists of
There are 53 fish species in the basin, none of them endemic.[47] The Mackenzie River has a similar range of fish fauna to the Mississippi River system. It is believed that the two river systems were connected during the Ice Ages by meltwater lakes and channels, allowing fish in the two rivers to interbreed.[41]: 190–191 Fish in the Mackenzie River proper include the northern pike, several minnow species, and lake whitefish. Fish in the southern half of the watershed are genetically isolated from those of the northern half due to large rapids on the Slave River preventing fish from swimming upstream.[48]
Migratory birds use the three major deltas in the Mackenzie River basin — the Mackenzie Delta and the inland Slave and Peace-Athabasca Deltas — as resting and breeding areas. The latter is located at the convergence of four major North American migratory routes, or flyways.
Water mammals such as beavers and muskrats are extremely common in the Mackenzie Delta and surrounding areas of muskeg.[9] The Mackenzie estuary is also a calving area for beluga whales.[51]
History

The Mackenzie valley is believed to have been the path taken by prehistoric peoples during the initial
The Mackenzie provided the major route into Canada's northern interior for European explorers as early as the late 18th century. Scottish explorer

In the following decades the North West Company established forts on the river, the precursors of present-day settlements such as Fort Simpson (formerly Fort of the Forks). A lucrative fur trade was carried out, as the Mackenzie basin teemed with beaver and muskrat. However, the short summer and harsh winter conditions limited trappers' activities. During the late 19th century Fort Simpson was regional headquarters for the Hudson's Bay Company. The first fur trappers were native, but starting in the 1920s increasing numbers of European trappers entered the region. Beaver and muskrat populations were heavily depleted, especially in areas around and south of Great Slave Lake.[54]

Catholic missionary Henri Grollier founded missions at Fort Simpson, Fort Norman and Fort Good Hope between 1858 and 1859.
During the late 19th century and early 20th century epidemics of introduced European diseases swept through Indigenous communities along the river, and thousands of native people lost their lives. One particularly severe influenza in 1928 killed as many as one in ten native people along the Mackenzie River. Fort Providence lost 20 percent of its population, and some smaller villages and camps were completely wiped out.[55]
Oil was discovered at Norman Wells in the 1920s, beginning a period of industrialization in the Mackenzie valley. Oil was initially shipped out by steamboats, supplying mines and towns across the NWT. This demand grew when gold was discovered on the northern shore of Great Slave Lake, leading to the settlement of

In the 1950s the
The Royal Canadian Mint honoured the 200th anniversary of the naming of the Mackenzie River with the issue of a silver commemorative dollar in 1989.
In 1997, a
In 2008, Canadian and Japanese researchers extracted a constant stream of natural gas from a test project at the Mallik
Human use

As of 2001, approximately 400,000 people lived in the Mackenzie River basin — representing only one percent of Canada's population. Ninety percent of the population lived in the Peace and Athabasca River basins, mostly in Alberta. The cold northern
Natural resources
Some parts of the Mackenzie basin are rich in natural resources – oil and gas in the Northwest Territories and in central Alberta, lumber in the Peace River headwaters, uranium in Saskatchewan, gold and zinc in the Great Slave Lake area and tungsten in the Yukon. As of 2003 there were two operational gold mines in Yellowknife, and many more abandoned mines dot the region.[18] Communities along the Mackenzie River depend on subsistence fishing, although there is also some commercial fishing on the river.[45]
Agriculture in the Mackenzie River basin is mainly concentrated in the Peace and Athabasca valleys to the south. The valley of the former river is considered to be some of the best northern farmland in Canada, due to the high concentration of minerals found in the soil.[45] These conditions are expected to be improved even more by trends in climate change, such as warmer temperatures and a longer growing season.[64][65] According to the British Columbia Environmental Network, "there is enough agricultural capability in the Peace River Valley to provide vegetables to all of northern Canada".[66]
The only functioning oil pipeline in the Mackenzie basin connects Norman Wells with Zama City, Alberta. Norman Wells was the main oil-producing area on the Mackenzie River until the 1970s, when new oil fields were discovered further north in the Mackenzie delta[67] and the surrounding coastline. As of 2016, there were an estimated 166 billion barrels of oil reserves in this region. There is a proposal for a Mackenzie Valley Pipeline, which has not been built due to environmental concerns and falling oil and gas prices.[68]
Transportation
During the ice-free season, the Mackenzie is a major transportation link through the vast wilderness of northern Canada, linking the many isolated communities along its course. Wide, calm sections of the river are frequently used to land seaplanes in the ice-free season. Canada's northernmost major railhead is located at the town of Hay River, on the south shore of Great Slave Lake. Goods shipped there by train and truck are loaded onto barges of the government-owned Marine Transportation Services.[69] In 2016, Northern Transportation Company went bankrupt, and its assets were bought by the government of Northwest Territories.
Barge traffic travels the entire length of the Mackenzie in long "trains" of up to fifteen shallow-draft vessels pulled by tugboats. Goods are shipped as far as the port of Tuktoyaktuk on the eastern end of the Mackenzie Delta, where they are transferred to oceangoing vessels and delivered to communities along Canada's Arctic coast and the numerous islands to the north.[70] In winter, the frozen channel of the Mackenzie River, especially in the delta region, is used as an ice road, firm enough to support large trucks, although travel between northern communities is mostly by dog sleds and snowmobiles.[71]
Although the Mackenzie River is wide and deep, navigation is "notoriously difficult" due to the locations of sandbars and shallows changing from year to year. In some narrower parts of the river, barges must be uncoupled and towed one by one through hazardous stretches, despite attempts to widen and deepening the channel by blasting.[72]
Hydroelectricity
Although there are no dams along the main stem of the Mackenzie, many of its tributaries and headwaters have been developed for
By acting as a massive stabilizer on the water flow of the Peace River, Williston Lake reduces flood crests on the Peace, Slave and Mackenzie rivers as far downstream as Fort Good Hope.[76] This has made the Peace Valley more suitable for farming, but has had significant impacts on downstream wildlife and riparian communities. The more stable annual flow slows down the spread of essential nutrients which builds up in the form of sediments, thus causing the river to become more polluted.[45][77][78]
There have been many proposals to dam the tributaries of the Mackenzie River which would lead to further impacts on water quality and seasonal flow patterns. A potential
Tributaries
Largest
Tributary | Length | Watershed | Discharge | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
km | mi | km2 | sq mi | m3/s | cu ft/s | |
Liard River | 1,115 | 693 | 277,100 | 106,989 | 2,434 | 85,960 |
North Nahanni River | 200 | 124 | ||||
Root River | 220 | 138 | ||||
Redstone River | 289 | 180 | 16,400 | 6,332 | 417 | 14,726 |
Keele River | 410 | 255 | 19,000 | 7,340 | 600 | 21,200 |
Great Bear River | 113 | 70 | 156,500 | 60,425 | 528 | 18,646 |
Mountain River | 370 | 230 | 13,500 | 5,212 | 123 | 4,344 |
Arctic Red River | 500 | 311 | 22,000 | 8,494 | 161 | 5,690 |
Peel River | 580 | 360 | 28,400 | 10,965 | 689 | 24,332 |
Full list
See also
- List of rivers of Canada
- List of rivers of the Northwest Territories
- Peace River Country
- Steamboats of the Mackenzie River
- Peel Watershed
Works cited
- Hodgins, Bruce W.; Hoyle, Gwyneth (1994). Canoeing north into the unknown: a record of river travel, 1874 to 1974. Dundurn Press. ISBN 978-0-920474-93-8.
- Pielou, E.C. (1991). After the Ice Age: The Return of Life to Glaciated North America. University of Chicago Press. ISBN 978-0-226-66812-3.
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