St Mary's Cathedral, Sydney

St Mary's Cathedral
Cathedral Church and Minor Basilica of the Immaculate Mother of God, Help of Christians
St Mary's Basilica
Archconfraternity of St. Stephen
New South Wales Heritage Register
Official name	St. Mary's Catholic Cathedral and Chapter House; Saint Mary's Cathedral; St Marys Cathedral
Type	State heritage (complex / group)
Designated	3 September 2004
Reference no.	1709
Type	Cathedral
Category	Religion
Builders	Jacob Inder (Chapter House)

The Cathedral Church and Minor Basilica of the Immaculate Mother of God, Help of Christians (colloquially, St Mary's Cathedral) is the

St Mary's has the greatest length of any church in Australia. It is located on College Street near the eastern border of the Sydney central business district in the City of Sydney local government area of New South Wales, Australia. Despite the high-rise development of the central business district, the cathedral's imposing structure and twin spires make it a landmark from every direction. In 2008, St Mary's Cathedral became the focus of World Youth Day 2008 and was visited by Pope Benedict XVI who consecrated the new forward altar. The cathedral was designed by William Wardell and built from 1866 to 1928. It is also known as St Mary's Catholic Cathedral and Chapter House, Saint Mary's Cathedral and St Mary's Cathedral. The property was added to the New South Wales State Heritage Register on 3 September 2004.^[3]

History

Background

Sydney was established as a penal settlement on

priest, a Father O'Flynn, travelled to the colony of New South Wales but, as he arrived without government sanction, he was sent home.

It was not until 1820 that two priests, Father Conolly and Father

This vision came to pass, but not until after 180 years and three intermediate buildings.

One church after another

Father Therry applied for a grant of land on which to build a church. He asked for land on the western side of Sydney, towards

The area is now Hyde Park, with avenues of trees and the Archibald Fountain.

The foundation stone for the first St Mary's was laid on 29 October 1821 by Governor Macquarie. Built by

Augustus Welby Pugin

. Father Therry died on 25 May 1864. On 29 June 1865, the church caught fire and was destroyed.

The then archdeacon, Father McEnroe, immediately set about planning and fund raising in order to build the present cathedral, based upon a plan drawn up by Archbishop Polding. Polding wrote to

in 1858.

There were to be two intermediate stages. A temporary wooden church was constructed, which was also destroyed by fire in the summer of 1869. The third temporary provision was a sturdy brick building on the site, not of the cathedral but of St Mary's School, which it was to serve long after the present structure was in use.

Construction

Archbishop Polding laid the foundation stone for the present cathedral in 1868.^[7] It was to be a huge and ambitious structure with a wide nave and aisle and three towers. Polding did not live to see it in use as he died in 1877. Five years later, on 8 September 1882, his successor, Archbishop Vaughan, presided at the dedication Mass. Archbishop Vaughan gave the peal of bells which were rung for the first time on that day. Vaughan died while in England in 1883.

The cathedral's builder (for this stage) was

But St Mary's was still far from finished, the work proceeding under

on the internal walls marks the division between the first and second stage of building.

Following the death in office of Prime Minister Joseph Lyons in April 1939, he lay in state at St Mary's for several days before being taken to his home town of Devonport, Tasmania, for burial.^[9]

The decoration and enrichment of the cathedral continued with the remains of

.

For many years the two squared-off towers of the façade gave a disappointing appearance to an otherwise-elegant building.^{[citation needed]} It was from time to time suggested pinnacles should be put up to match the central tower as it appeared plain that William Wardell's proposed spires would never be built. But with the assistance of a grant from the Government to mark the new millennium, the spires were eventually built in 2000.^[10]

Since 2000

In 2008, St Mary's Cathedral became the focus of

Architecture

Plan

St Mary's Cathedral is unusual among large cathedrals in that, because of its size, the plan of the city around it and the fall of the land, it is oriented in a north–south direction rather than the usual east–west. The liturgical East End is at the north and the West Front is to the south.

The plan of the cathedral is a conventional English cathedral plan, cruciform in shape, with a tower over the crossing of the nave and transepts and twin towers at the West Front (in this case, the south). The chancel is square-ended, like the chancels of Lincoln, York and several other English cathedrals. There are three processional doors in the south with additional entrances conveniently placed in the transept facades so that they lead from Hyde Park and from the presbytery buildings and school adjacent the cathedral.

Style

The architecture is typical of the Gothic Revival of the 19th century, inspired by the journals of the

and, because of its fortuitous siting, still dominates many views of the city despite the high-rise buildings.

The style of the cathedral is Geometric Decorated Gothic, the archaeological antecedent being the ecclesiastical architecture of late 13th century England. It is based fairly closely on the style of Lincoln Cathedral, the tracery of the huge chancel window being almost a replica of that at Lincoln.

Exterior

The lateral view of the building from Hyde Park is marked by the regular progression of Gothic windows with pointed arches and simple tracery. The upper roofline is finished with a pierced parapet, broken by decorative gables above the clerestorey windows, above which rises a steeply pitched slate roof with many small dormers in the French manner. The roofline of the aisles is decorated with carved bosses between the sturdy buttresses which support flying

.

St Mary's Cathedral is generally approached on foot from the city through Hyde Park, where the transept front and central tower rise up behind the Archibald Fountain. During the 20th century the gardeners of Hyde Park have further enhanced the vista by laying out a garden on the cathedral side of the park in which the plantings have often taken the form of a cross.

Despite the many English features of the architecture including its interior and chancel termination, the entrance façade is not English at all. It is a design loosely based on the most famous of all Gothic west fronts, that of

, but they were not to be put in place until 132 years after the building was commenced.

The crossing tower, which holds the bells, is quite stocky but its silhouette is made elegant by the provision of tall crocketted pinnacles. The completed spires of the main front enhance the view of the cathedral along College Street and particularly the ceremonial approach from the flight of stairs in front of the cathedral. Standing at 74.6 metres (245 ft), they make St Mary's the fourth tallest church in Australia, after the triple-spired St Patrick's Cathedral, Melbourne, St Paul's Cathedral, Melbourne and Sacred Heart Cathedral, Bendigo.

Interior

In cross-section the cathedral is typical of most large churches in having a high central nave and an aisle on either side, which serve to buttress the nave and provide passage around the interior. The interior of the nave thus rises in three stages, the arcade, the gallery and the clerestory which has windows to light the nave. See

The building is of golden-coloured sandstone which has weathered externally to golden-brown. The roof is of red cedar, that of the nave being of an open arch-braced construction enlivened by decorative pierced carvings. The chancel is vaulted with timber, which was probably intended to be richly decorated in red, blue and gold after the manner of the wooden roof at Peterborough, but this did not eventuate, and the warm colour of the timber contrasts well with the stonework.

The side aisles are vaulted in stone, with a large round boss at the centre of each ribbed vault. Children who, over the years, have crawled into the arched space beneath the pulpit have discovered another such beautiful carved boss, in miniature and usually unseen. On all the terminals of arches within the buildings are carved heads of saints. Those that are near the confessionals are at eye-level and may be examined for their details.

The screen behind the high altar is delicately carved in

also designed by Wardell.

Lighting

Because of the brightness of Australian sunlight, it was decided at the time of construction to glaze the clerestory with yellow glass. This glazing has darkened over the years, permitting little light to enter. The yellow glazing contrasts with the predominantly blue stained glass of the lower windows. To counteract the darkness, the cathedral installed extensive lighting in the 1970s, designed to give more-or-less equal illumination to all parts of the buildings. The interior is lit with a diffuse yellow glow, which, like the upper windows, is in contrast to the effects of the natural light which penetrates through the white areas of the stained glass. The installed lighting counteracts the pattern of light and shade that would normally exist in a cathedral of the Gothic style by illuminating most brightly those parts of the structure which would normally be subdued.

Stained glass

The cathedral's stained glass is all the work of Hardman & Co. and covers a period of about 50 years.

There are about 40 pictorial windows representing several themes and culminating in the chancel window showing the

and Mary, crowned and enthroned beside Jesus as he sits in judgement, pleading Jesus' mercy upon Christians.

Other windows include the mysteries of the

of the 19th century to a more painterly and lavish style of the early 20th century.

• Details of the architecture
• 
  Carvings around the transept portal include Australian flora
• 
  The aisles have ribbed stone vaulting with carved bosses
• 
  The ceiling of the central bell tower is of painted oak
• 
  Western transept rose window

Treasures

St Mary's is full of treasures and devotional objects. Around the walls of the aisles are located the Stations of the Cross, painted in oils by L. Chovet of Paris and selected for St Mary's by Cardinal Moran in 1885. In the western transept is a marble replica of Michelangelo's Pietà, the original of which is in St. Peter's Basilica, Rome. This sculpture was brought to Australia for display in David Jones Ltd. department store and was later donated to the cathedral.

Located previously in the crypt, where it was touched in the evening by the setting sun, was the Grave of the Unknown Soldier, a realistic depiction of a dead soldier sculpted by George Washington Lambert. Although previously visible to the public from above, the tomb has now been moved into the aisle of the cathedral, to give the public greater access to it.

The crypt has an extensive mosaic floor, the achievement of Peter Melocco and his firm. This design has as its foundation a cross elaborately decorated like a vast

and the titles of the Virgin Mary.

• Treasures of the cathedral
• 
  Crucifixion from the Stations of the Cross by L. Chovet
• 
  Decoration of the Low Altar includes a relief sculpture of the body of Jesus based on the Shroud of Turin
• 
  Baptistry and baptismal font
• 
  The Unknown Soldier by G. W. Lambert
• 
  Statue of

  Our Lady

  , Help of Christians in the cathedral
• 
  A reliquary containing a relic from the right hand of St Francis Xavier

Music

The music team at St Mary's currently comprises the acting director of music, Simon Niemiński, and assistant organists Callum Knox and Dominic Moawad; and the music administrator, Eleanor Taig.

Pipe organs

• The first pipe organ installed in the original cathedral was built by Henry Bevington of London and installed in June 1841. Of two manuals and 23 stops, it was the largest organ in Australia until its destruction by fire in 1865.
• In 1942 a pipe organ built by Joseph Howell Whitehouse of Brisbane, (1874–1954), was installed in the gallery at the end of the nave, above the main door.
• Between 1959 and 1971 Ronald Sharp (born 1929) installed an electric-action pipe organ in the triforium gallery of the sanctuary, but this was never completed.
• In 1997 a new pipe organ was built by Orgues Létourneau of Saint Hyacinthe, Quebec, and installed on a new gallery built around the rose window in the western transept. It was completed in 1999 and dedicated by Cardinal Clancy. The Létourneau organ is of three manuals and 46 stops. In addition to being played from the gallery, it may be played with the Whitehouse organ, from a four-manual mobile electronic console located at floor level. This console also controls the Whitehouse organ.
• A three-stop chamber organ by Henk Klop is in the Irish Saints' chapel, and is used to accompany weekday vespers.
• There is a Rodgers digital organ in the quire, which accompanies the daily choral liturgies.
• There is an organ in the crypt, made by Bellsham Pipe Organs (1985.)

Choirs

There are two choirs that sing liturgically at the cathedral. The Cathedral Choir sings almost daily. There is also a voluntary adult choir, the St Mary's Singers, which sings regularly for services and occasional concerts.

St Mary's Cathedral Choir

Begun in the 19th century as a mixed voice choir, the

and Renaissance compositions to 21st century compositions.

Cathedral Scholars

Choristers from the Cathedral Choir whose voices have broken continue their training as part of this special ensemble. The Scholars sing Vespers and Mass on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

St Mary's Singers

The St Mary's Singers is an adult choir of volunteer mixed voices which sings for Vespers and Mass on the third Saturday of every month, as well as at other liturgical occasions, and gives regular concerts.

Organists

• 1834–35 J. de C. Cavendish
• 1839 Dr J. A. Reid
• c. 1840 Dr Ross
• 1841–42 Isaac Nathan
• 1842–43 G. W. Worgan
• c. 1848–c. 1954 Mr Walton [Bishop Henry Davis is also known to have played regularly at this time]
• 1856–1870 William J. Cordner
• 1870–71 or 72 John T. Hill
• 1872
  John A. Delany
• 1877–78 "Professor" Hughes
• 1879–1888 Thomas P. Banks
• 1888–1895 Neville G. Barnett
• 1895–1897 John A. Delany
• 1907–1963 Harry Dawkins
• 1963 Neil Slarke
• 1964–1971 Errol Scarlett
• 1971–1974 John O'Donnell
• 1974–1979 Errol Lea-Scarlett
• 1979–1987 Gavin Tipping
• 1988–2022 Peter Kneeshaw (latterly Organist Emeritus)

Bells

The bells of St Mary's Cathedral have a unique place in Australian history. There have been three separate rings of bells at the cathedral, all cast by the Whitechapel Bell Foundry of London. The first, of eight bells, arrived in Sydney in August 1843, and were installed in a wooden campanile located away from the main building (approximately where the pulpit is today). They were the first bells hung for change ringing in Australia and rang for the first time on New Year's Day 1844. When the cathedral was destroyed by fire in June 1865, the bells escaped damage. Construction of new cathedral began in 1866, and during 1868 the bells were removed from the campanile and installed in the new tower, which was situated where the south-western tower now stands. In 1881 the bells were traded in for a new ring of eight which were installed the following year (the Whitechapel Foundry was then using the name Mears & Stainbank). In 1885 a contract was signed for the construction of the Central Tower (the Moran Tower) to which the bells were transferred in 1898.

A century later an entirely new ring was ordered. Today the Central Tower houses a ring of twelve bells, plus two additional bells which allow alternative groups of bells to be rung, depending on the number and skill of the ringers available.

Heritage listing

As at 30 September 2003, the cathedral site is the oldest place maintaining its use as a place of worship for the Catholic community in Australia. It is the site of the original St Mary's Cathedral, the first Catholic church in Australia and is the first land granted to the Catholic Church in Australia. It also the oldest permanent place of residence of Catholic clergy and can be said to be the birthplace of Catholicism in Australia.[3]

The cathedral is associated with significant figures in the history of the Catholic Church in Australia, notably with Father Therry, archbishops Polding and Vaughan, Cardinal Moran and Archbishop Kelly. It is also associated with important persons of the 19th and 20th centuries, including governor Macquarie and Bourke and the architects Greenway, Pugin, Wardell and Hennessy. The cathedral is the seat of the Archbishop of Sydney and the mother diocese of Australia.^[3]

The cathedral is of major architectural significance as the largest 19th century ecclesiastical building in the English Gothic style anywhere in the world. The Cathedral Chapter Hall located to the east is significant as the oldest building extant on the site, possibly the oldest surviving Catholic school building in Australia and evidence to suggest an important direct involvement in its design by Pugin.^[3][25]

St Mary's Catholic Cathedral was listed on the New South Wales State Heritage Register on 3 September 2004 having satisfied the following criteria.^[3]

The place is important in demonstrating the course, or pattern, of cultural or natural history in New South Wales.

The cathedral site is the oldest place maintaining its use as a place of worship for the Catholic community in this country. It is the site of the original St Mary's Cathedral, the first Catholic church in Australia, which was destroyed by fire in 1865. The site is significant for being the first land granted to the Catholic Church in Australia. Being the site where Governor Macquarie laid the foundation stone of the first St Mary's, the cathedral site symbolises the reconciliation of the Catholic Church and the Australian state. The site of St Mary's Cathedral is also significant as the oldest permanent place of residence of Catholic clergy in Australia. For these reasons, the site of St Mary's Cathedral can be said to be the birthplace of Catholicism in Australia.^[3]

It is the place where the International Eucharistic Congresses of 1928 and 1954 were celebrated at St Mary's. The cathedral is also where the first pope to visit Australia celebrated Mass and, through its organists and choir masters, has played an important role in the musical history of Sydney. The Cathedral Chapter Hall located to the east is significant as the oldest building extant on the site. It is possibly the oldest surviving Catholic school building in Australia.^[25] The use of the Chapter Hall as a school and general purpose hall has been continuous since erection and its role as an early public meeting place is highly significant. The Chapter Hall is the oldest building on the St Mary's site.^[3][26]

The place has a strong or special association with a person, or group of persons, of importance of cultural or natural history of New South Wales's history.

The cathedral is associated with significant figures in the history of the Catholic Church in Australia, notably with Father Therry, Archbishops Polding and Vaughan, Cardinal Moran and Archbishop Kelly, all of whom are buried in the crypt. It is also associated with important persons of the 19th and 20th centuries, including Governors Macquarie and Bourke, and architects Greenway, Pugin, Wardell and Hennessy.^[25] The Chapter Hall's Gothic Revival style blends well with the cathedral and is aesthetically pleasing.^[3][26]

The place is important in demonstrating aesthetic characteristics and/or a high degree of creative or technical achievement in New South Wales.

The cathedral is sited along a ridge running north–south on the eastern edge of the central area of the city and projects a dominating and inspiring presence, its roof and towers rising up above the neighbouring buildings and trees. The four arms of its plan establish axes that link it to the harbour and

The place has a strong or special association with a particular community or cultural group in New South Wales for social, cultural or spiritual reasons.

St Mary's Cathedral is the seat of the Archbishop of Sydney and the mother diocese of Australia. In its physical and spiritual presence it proclaims the faith of the Catholic church. It is primarily a house of sacrament, prayer and worship. It is also a great civic edifice of importance to all the people of Sydney. Built on the site of the first official catholic church in the colony, the present cathedral complex links back through two centuries, without interruption, to the beginnings of the Catholic faith in Australia. It is a focus for the Catholic community of Australia, while through its musical and other artistic activities, it is an important part of the cultural life of Sydney.[25]^[3]

The place has potential to yield information that will contribute to an understanding of the cultural or natural history of New South Wales.

A major sandstone building in Sydney, the physical fabric of the cathedral demonstrates the quality of craft, engineering skill and sense of place achieved in yellow block sandstone structures in Victorian Sydney. The completion of the southern front end of the cathedral by Hennessy Hennessy and Co. demonstrates innovative building technology at the beginning of this century, especially in the techniques employed in the construction of the foundations and crypt.^[25][3]

The place possesses uncommon, rare or endangered aspects of the cultural or natural history of New South Wales.

St Mary's is a rare example of the 19th century Gothic style Catholic cathedral.^[25] The chapter hall is the only remaining intact building relating to John Bede Polding, the first Archbishop of Australia.^[3][26]

The place is important in demonstrating the principal characteristics of a class of cultural or natural places/environments in New South Wales.

St Mary's Cathedral and Chapter House has represented the centre of Catholic worship and culture in Sydney (and arguably the State) since its construction in the 1870s.^[3]

Gallery

• 
  Statue of St Mary of the Cross at the College Street doors
• 
  Chapel of the Sacred Heart
• 
  Chapel of St Joseph
• 
  Chapel of Our Lady with stained glass windows above, the reredos features statues of influential female saints
• 
  Chapel of St Peter with reredos depicting Jesus entrusting St Peter with the Keys to the Kingdom of Heaven
• 
  Chapel of the Irish Saints with reredos depicting

  Brigid of Ireland

  .
• 
  The vestments of St Oliver Plunkett, Archbishop of Armagh, who was implicated in the Popish Plot and executed in Tyburn.
• 
  A statue by Fr John Dom Eugene Gourbeillon OSB of "Our Lady and the child Jesus", the only surviving statue from the first cathedral
• 
  Statue of Saint Patrick presented to the cathedral by the Saint Patrick's Branch of the Hibernian Australasian Catholic Benefit Society.
• 
  Statue of Pope John Paul II outside the Cathedral

Burials in the crypt

See also