Achill Island
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Native name: Acaill, Oileán Acla | |
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Geography | |
Location | Atlantic Ocean |
Coordinates | 53°57′50″N 10°00′11″W / 53.96391°N 10.00303°W |
Archipelago | Achill |
Total islands | 3 (Achill,Innisbiggle and Achillbeg islands) |
Major islands | Achill |
Area | 36,572 acres (14,800 ha) |
Coastline | 128 km (79.5 mi) |
Highest elevation | 688 m (2257 ft) |
Highest point | Croaghaun |
Administration | |
Province | Connacht |
County | Mayo |
Barony | Burrishoole |
Demographics | |
Population | 2,345 (2022 [1]) |
Pop. density | 17.3/km2 (44.8/sq mi) |
Ethnic groups | Irish |
Additional information | |
Ireland's largest island |
Achill Island (
Roughly half of the island, including the villages of Achill Sound and Bunacurry are in the Gaeltacht (traditional Irish-speaking region) of Ireland,[3] although the vast majority of the island's population speaks English as their daily language.
History
It is believed that at the end of the
Overlords
Achill Island lies in the Barony of
The hereditary chieftains of Umhall were the O'Malleys, recorded in the area in 814 AD when they successfully repelled an onslaught by the Vikings in Clew Bay. The Anglo-Norman invasion of Connacht in 1235 AD saw the territory of Umhall taken over by the Butlers and later by the de Burgos. The Butler Lordship of Burrishoole continued into the late 14th century when Thomas le Botiller was recorded as being in possession of Akkyll and Owyll.[4]
Immigration
In the 17th and 18th centuries, there was much migration to Achill from other parts of Ireland, particularly Ulster, due to the political and religious turmoil of the time. For a while, there were two different dialects of Irish being spoken on Achill. This led to many townlands being recorded as having two names during the 1824 Ordnance Survey, and some maps today give different names for the same place. Achill Irish still has many traces of Ulster Irish.
In the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, seasonal migration of farm workers to East Lothian to pick potatoes took place; these squads of 'tattie howkers' were known as Achill workers, although not all were from Achill, and were organised for potato merchants by gaffers or gangers.[5] Squads travelled from farm to farm to harvest the crop and were allocated basic accommodation. On 15 September 1937 ten young migrant potato pickers from Achill died in a fire at Kirkintilloch.[6] [7]
Specific historical sites and events
Grace O'Malley's Castle
Achill Mission
One of Achill's most famous historical sites is that of the Achill Mission or 'the Colony' at Dugort. In 1831, the Anglican (Church of Ireland) Rev Edward Nangle founded a mission at Dugort. The Mission included schools, cottages, an orphanage, an infirmary and a guesthouse.[9]
The Colony gave rise to mixed assessments, particularly during the Great Famine when charges of "souperism" were leveled against Nangle.[10] The provision of food across the Achill Mission schools - which also provided 'scriptural' religious instruction - was particularly controversial.[11]
For almost forty years, Nangle edited a newspaper called the Achill Missionary Herald and Western Witness, which was printed in Achill. He expanded his mission into Mweelin, Kilgeever, West Achill where a school, church, rectory, cottages and a training school were built. Edward's wife, Eliza, suffered poor health in Achill and died in 1852; she is buried with six of the Nangle children on the slopes of Slievemore in North Achill.[12]
In 1848, at the height of the Great Famine, the Achill Mission published a prospectus seeking to raise funds for the acquisition of significant additional lands from Sir Richard O'Donnell. The document gives an overview, from the Mission's perspective, of its activities in Achill over the previous decade and a half including considerable sectarian unrest.[13] In 1851, Edward Nangle confirmed the purchase of the land which made the Achill Mission the largest landowner on the island.
The Achill Mission began to decline slowly after Nangle was moved from Achill and it closed in the 1880s. When Edward Nangle died in 1883 there were opposing views on his legacy.[14]
Railway
In 1894, the Westport – Newport railway line was extended to Achill Sound. The railway station is now a hostel. The train provided a great service to Achill, but it also is said to have fulfilled an ancient prophecy. Brian Rua O' Cearbhain had prophesied that 'carts on iron wheels' would carry bodies into Achill on their first and last journey. In 1894, the first train on the Achill railway carried the bodies of victims of the Clew Bay Drowning. This tragedy occurred when a boat overturned in Clew Bay, drowning thirty-two young people. They had been going to meet the steamer which would take them to Britain for potato picking.[15]
The Kirkintilloch Fire in 1937 almost fulfilled the second part of the prophecy when the bodies of ten victims were carried by rail to Achill. While it was not literally the last train, the railway closed just two weeks later. These people had died in a fire in a bothy in Kirkintilloch. This term referred to the temporary accommodation provided for those who went to Scotland to pick potatoes, a migratory pattern that had been established in the early nineteenth century.[16]
Kildamhnait
Kildamhnait on the south-east coast of Achill is named after St. Damhnait, or Dymphna, who founded a church there in the 7th century.[17] There is also a holy well just outside the graveyard. The present church was built in the 1700s and the graveyard contains memorials to the victims of two of Achill's greatest tragedies, the Kirchintilloch Fire (1937) and the Clew Bay Drowning (1894).
The Monastery
In 1852,
A monk who lived at the monastery for almost thirty years was Paul Carney. He wrote a biography of James Lynchehaun who was convicted for the 1894 attack on an Englishwoman named Agnes MacDonnell, which left her face disfigured, and the burning of her home, Valley House, Tonatanvally, North Achill. The home was rebuilt and MacDonnell died there in 1923, while Lynchehaun escaped to the USA after serving 7 years and successfully resisted extradition but spent his last years in Scotland, where he died. Carney's-great grandniece, Patricia Byrne, wrote her own account of Mrs MacDonnell and Lynchehaun, entitled The Veiled Woman of Achill.[19]
Carney also wrote accounts of his lengthy fundraising trips across the U.S. at the start of the 20th century.[20] The ruins of this monastery are still to be seen in Bunnacurry today.
Valley House
The historic Valley House is located in Tonatanvally, "The Valley", near Dugort, in the northeast of Achill Island. The present building sits on the site of a hunting lodge built by the Earl of Cavan in the 19th century. Its notoriety arises from an incident in 1894 in which the then owner, an Englishwoman, Mrs Agnes McDonnell, was savagely beaten and the house set alight by a local man, James Lynchehaun. Lynchehaun had been employed by McDonnell as her land agent, but the two fell out and he was sacked and told to quit his accommodation on her estate. A lengthy legal battle ensued, with Lynchehaun refusing to leave. At the time, in the 1890s, the issue of land ownership in Ireland was politically charged. After the events at the Valley House in 1895, Lynchehaun would falsely claim his actions were carried out on behalf of the Irish Republican Brotherhood and motivated by politics. He escaped from custody after serving seven years[21] and fled to the United States seeking political asylum (although Michael Davitt refused to shake his hand, calling Lynchehaun a "murderer"), where he successfully defeated legal attempts by the British authorities to have him extradited to face charges arising from the attack and the burning of the Valley House. Agnes McDonnell suffered terrible injuries from the attack but survived and lived for another 23 years, dying in 1923. Lynchehaun is said to have returned to Achill on two occasions, once in disguise as an American tourist, and eventually died in Girvan, Scotland, in 1937. The Valley House is now a hostel and bar.[22]
The Deserted Village
Close by Dugort, at the base of Slievemore mountain lies the Deserted Village. There are approximately 80 ruined houses in the village. The houses were built of unmortared stone, which means that no cement or mortar was used to hold the stones together. Each house consisted of just one room and this room was used as a kitchen, living room, bedroom and even a stable. If one looks at the fields around the Deserted Village and right up the mountain, one can see the tracks in the fields of 'lazy beds', which is the way crops like potatoes were grown. In Achill, as in many areas of Ireland, a system called 'Rundale' was used for farming. This meant that the land around a village was rented from a landlord. This land was then shared by all the villagers to graze their cattle and sheep. Each family would then have two or three small pieces of land scattered about the village, which they used to grow crops. For many years people lived in the village and then in 1845 Famine struck in Achill as it did in the rest of Ireland. Most of the families moved to the nearby village of Dooagh, which is beside the sea, while some others emigrated. Living beside the sea meant that fish and shellfish could be used for food. The village was completely abandoned which is where the name 'Deserted Village' came from.
No one has lived in these houses since the time of the Famine, however, the families that moved to Dooagh and their descendants, continued to use the village as a 'booley village'. This means that during the summer season, the younger members of the family, teenage boys and girls, would take the cattle to graze on the hillside and they would stay in the houses of the Deserted Village. This custom continued until the 1940s. Boolying was also carried out in other areas of Achill, including Annagh on Croaghaun mountain and in Curraun. At Ailt, Kildownet, the remains of a similar deserted village can be found. This village was deserted in 1855 when the tenants were evicted by the local landlord so the land could be used for cattle grazing; the tenants were forced to rent holdings in Currane, Dooega and Slievemore. Others emigrated to America.
Archaeology
Recent archaeological research suggests the village was occupied year-round at least as early as the 19th century, though it is known to have served as a seasonally occupied 'booley village' by the first half of the 20th century. A booley village (a number of which exist in a ruined state on the island) is a village occupied only during part of the year, such as a resort community, a lake community, or (as the case on Achill) a place to live while tending flocks or herds of ruminants during winter or summer pasturing.[23] Specifically, some of the people of Dooagh and Pollagh would migrate in the summer to Slievemore and then go back to Dooagh in the autumn. The summer 2009 field school excavated Round House 2 on Slievemore Mountain under the direction of archaeologist Stuart Rathbone. Only the outside north wall, entrance way and inside of the Round House were completely excavated.[24]
From 2004 to 2006, the Achill Island Maritime Archaeology Project directed by
Other places of interest
This section needs additional citations for verification. (December 2022) |
The cliffs of
The mountain of
Achillbeg (Acaill Beag, Little Achill) is a small island just off Achill's southern tip. Its inhabitants were resettled on Achill in the 1960s.[28] A plaque to Johnny Kilbane is situated on Achillbeg and was erected to celebrate 100 years since his first championship win.[citation needed]
The villages of Dooniver and Askill have picturesque scenery and the cycle route is popular with tourists.
Economy
While a number of attempts at setting up small industrial units on the island have been made, its economy is largely dependent on tourism. Subventions from Achill people working abroad allowed many families to remain living in Achill throughout the 19th and 20th centuries. In the past, fishing was a significant activity but this aspect of the economy is small now. At one stage, the island was known for its shark fishing, basking shark in particular was fished for its valuable shark liver oil. There was a big spurt of growth in tourism in the 1960s and 1970s before which life was tough and difficult on the island. Despite healthy visitor numbers each year, the common perception is that tourism in Achill has been slowly declining since its heyday. Currently, the largest employers on Achill are two hotels.[30]
Religion
Most people on Achill are either
Overview of the churches
- Catholic:
- Bunnacurry Church (Saint Josephs)
- The Valley Church; Only open for certain events.
- Dookinella Church
- CurraneChurch
- Pollagh Church
- Derreens Church
- Dooega Church
- Belfarsed Church
- Achill Sound Church
- Church of Ireland:
- Dugort Church (St. Thomas's church)
- InnisbiggleIsland church
- Other:
Artists
For almost two centuries, a number of artists have had a close relationship with Achill Island, including the landscape painter Paul Henry.[31] Within the emerging Irish Free State, Paul Henry's landscapes from Achill and other areas reinforced a vision of Ireland of communities living in harmony with the land.[32] He lived in Achill for almost a decade with his wife, artist Grace Henry and, while using similar subject-matter, the pair developed very different styles.[33]
This relationship of artists with Achill was particularly intense in the early decades of the twentieth century when Eva O'Flaherty (1874-1963) became a focal point for artistic networking on the island.[34] A network of over 200 artists linked to Achill is charted in "Achill Painters - An Island History" and includes painters such as the Belgian Marie Howet, the American Robert Henri, the modernist painter Mainie Jellett and contemporary artist Camille Souter.[35]
The 2018 Coming Home Art & The Great Hunger exhibition,[36] in partnership with The Great Hunger Museum of Quinnipiac University, USA, featured Achill's Deserted Village and the island lazy beds prominently in works by Geraldine O'Reilly and Alanna O'Kelly; also included was an 1873 painting, 'Cottage, Achill Island' by Alexander Williams - one of the first artists to open up the island to a wider audience.[37]
Education
Hedge schools existed in most villages of Achill in various periods of history. A university was started by the missions to Achill in Mweelin. In the modern age, there used to be two
Transport
Rail
Achill railway station, still on the mainland and not on the island, was opened by the Midland Great Western Railway on 13 May 1895, the terminus of its line from Westport via Newport and Mulranny. The station, and the line, were closed by the Great Southern Railways on 1 October 1937.[38] The Great Western Greenway, created during 2010 and 2011, follows the line's route[39] and has proved to be very successful in attracting visitors to Achill and the surrounding areas.
Road
The R319 road is the main road onto the island.[40]
Bus
Cuisine
Achill Island has several bars, cafes and restaurants. The island's Atlantic location means that seafood, including lobster, mussels, salmon, trout and winkles, are common meals. With a large sheep and cow population, lamb and beef are popular on the island too.[41]
Sport
Achill has a Gaelic football club which competes in the junior championship and division 1E of the Mayo League. There are also Achill Rovers which play in the Mayo Association Football League.[42]
There is a 9-hole
Population
In 2016, the population was 2,594,[45] with 5.2% claiming they spoke Irish on a daily basis outside the education system.[46] The island's population has declined from around 6,000 before the Great Famine of the mid-19th century.
Demographics
The table below reports data on Achill Island's population taken from Discover the Islands of Ireland (Alex Ritsema, Collins Press, 1999) and the census of Ireland.
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Sources: Central Statistics Office. "CNA17: Population by Off Shore Island, Sex and Year". CSO.ie. Retrieved 12 October 2016. Population of Inhabited Islands Off the Coast (Report). Central Statistics Office. 2023. Retrieved 29 June 2023. |
Architecture
This section needs additional citations for verification. (January 2009) |
Few inhabited houses date from before the 20th century, though there are many examples of abandoned stone structures dating to the 19th century.
The best known of these earlier can be seen in the "Deserted Village" ruins near the graveyard at the foot of Slievemore. Even the houses in this village represent a relatively comfortable class of dwelling as, even as recently as a hundred years ago, some people still used "Beehive" style houses (small circular single-roomed dwellings with a hole in the ceiling to let out smoke).
Many of the oldest inhabited cottages date from the activities of the Congested Districts Board for Ireland—a body set up around the turn of the 20th century in Ireland to improve the welfare of the inhabitants of small villages and towns. Most of the homes in Achill at the time were very small and tightly packed together in villages. The CDB subsidised the building of new, more spacious (though still small by modern standards) homes outside of the traditional villages.[citation needed]
Notable people
- Heinrich Böll, German writer who spent several summers with his family and later lived several months per year on the island
- Charles Boycott (1832–1897), unpopular landowner from whom the term boycott arose
- Nancy Corrigan, pioneer aviator, second female commercial pilot in the US.
- Dermot Freyer (1883–1970), writer who opened a hotel on the island
- Paul Henry, artist, stayed on the island for a number of years in the early 1900s
- James Kilbane, singer, lives on the island
- Johnny Kilbane, boxer
- Saoirse McHugh, former Green Party politician
- Danny McNamara, musician
- Richard McNamara, musician
- Eva O'Flaherty, Nationalist, model and milliner
- Thomas Patten, from Dooega. Died during the Siege of Madrid in December 1936
- Honor Tracy, author, lived there until her death in 1989
Literature
- Heinrich Böll: Irisches Tagebuch, Berlin, 1957
- Bob Kingston The Deserted Village at Slievemore, Castlebar, 1990
- Theresa McDonald: Achill: 5000 B.C. to 1900 A.D.: Archeology History Folklore, I.A.S. Publications [1992]
- Rosa Meehan: The Story of Mayo, Castlebar, 2003
- James Carney: The Playboy & the Yellow lady, 1986 Poolbeg[47]
- Hugo Hamilton: The Island of Talking,[48] 2007
- Kevin Barry: Beatlebone, 2015
- Mealla Nī Ghiobúin: Dugort, Achill Island 1831–1861: The Rise and Fall of a Missionary Community, 2001
- Patricia Byrne: The Veiled Woman of Achill – Island Outrage & A Playboy Drama, 2012
- Mary J. Murphy: Achill's Eva O'Flaherty – Forgotten Island Heroine, 2011
- Patricia Byrne: The Preacher and The Prelate – The Achill Mission Colony and The Battle for Souls in Famine Ireland, 2018
- Mary J. Murphy, Achill Painters -An Island History, 2020
- Michael Gallagher, Stick on Stone, 2013
In popular culture
The island is featured throughout the film The Banshees of Inisherin in various locations on the island including Keem Bay, Cloughmore, and Purteen Pier.[49]
The film My Sailor My Love features Achill island.
The island is the primary setting of the visual novel If Found....
See also
- Achillbeg
- Innisbiggle
- List of islands of County Mayo
References
- ^ Population of Inhabited Islands Off the Coast (Report). Central Statistics Office. 2023. Retrieved 29 June 2023.
- ^ Population of Inhabited Islands Off the Coast (Report). Central Statistics Office. 2023. Retrieved 29 June 2023.
- ^ "Gaeltacht Boundaries Generalised to 50m". census2016.geohive.ie. Retrieved 21 November 2020.
- ^ ISBN 0951997416.
- ^ Holmes, Heather (2000). 'As good as a holiday': Potato harvesting in the Lothians from 1870 to the present. East Linton, East Lothian: Tuckwell. pp. 185–219.
- ^ "The Kirkintilloch Tragedy, 1937 – The Irish Story". Retrieved 16 February 2023.
- ^ "Kirkintilloch Disaster". RTÉ Archives. Retrieved 16 February 2023.
- ^ Lynch, Peter (20 June 2016). "The Pirate Queen of County Mayo". BBC. Retrieved 2 February 2017.
- ISBN 0716527405.
- ISBN 9780333677735.
- ^ Byrne, Patricia (January 2022). "God's Scourge on a Sinful Nation: The Great Famine from an Achill Mission Perspective". Journal of the Galway Archaeological and Historical Society. 73: 29–30.
- ^ Byrne, Patricia (25 February 2020). "A controversial Mission". The Irish Times.
- ^ Byrne, Patricia (2022). "Evangelical Mission Pivots to Landlord in Famine Achill". History Ireland. 30 (4): 28–31.[permanent dead link]
- ^ Byrne, Patricia. "Weapons of his own forging: Edward nangle, Controversial in Life and in Death". The Irish Story. Retrieved 10 February 2020.
- ISBN 9781848891470.
- ISBN 9781846820038.
- ISSN 0791-5144. Retrieved 8 February 2022.
- ^ Joyce, P.J. (1910). A Forgotten Part of Ireland. Tuam, Ireland. pp. 148.
{{cite book}}
: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link) - ^ "Assault on Achill", irishtimes.com. Accessed 27 October 2022.
- ^ Byrne, Patricia (2009). "Teller of Tales: An Insight into the Life and Times of Brother Paul Carney (1844–1928), Travelling 'Quester' and Chronicler of the Life of James Lynchehaun, nineteenth-century Achill Criminal". Journal of the Galway Archaeological and Historical Society. 61: 156–169.
- ^ Byrne, Patricia. "Today In Irish History – Caught! Fugitive Criminal Lynchehaun Arrested, 5 January 1895". Retrieved 10 February 2020.
- ISBN 9781848891470.
- ^ Deserted village, Slievemore, Achill Island, achill247.com Retrieved on 17 February 2008.
- ^ Amanda Burt, member of Achill Field School, Summer 2009.
- ^ "Achill Island Maritime Archaeology Project | Institute of Maritime History". Maritimehistory.org. 20 February 2012. Retrieved 20 March 2012.
- S2CID 161863374.
- ^ See Michael Kennedy, Guarding Neutral Ireland (Dublin, 2008), p. 50
- ISBN 0-85361-631-0
- ^ "Irish Castles-Grace O'Malley". mythandlegends.net. Retrieved 13 June 2016.
- ^ "Achill Island (Co. Mayo)". Irelandbyways.com. Retrieved 20 March 2012.
- ^ Tourism, Achill (7 September 2021). "Artists Inspired by Achill". Achill Tourism. Archived from the original on 11 January 2002.
- ISBN 978-1-904288-76-3.
- ISBN 1-85894-059-1.
- ISBN 978-0-9560749-1-1.
- ^ "Achill Painters - an Island History".
- ISBN 978-0-9978374-8-3.
- ^ Byrne, Patricia (9 September 2021). "Book Review: Mary J. Murphy, Achill Painters - An Island History". The Irish Story – via www.theirishstory.com.
- ^ "Achill station" (PDF). Railscot – Irish Railways. Archived (PDF) from the original on 26 September 2007. Retrieved 8 September 2007.
- ^ "Home". Great Western Greenway. Retrieved 10 August 2011.
- ^ "S.I. No. 54/2012 — Roads Act 1993 (Classification of Regional Roads) Order 2012". Irish Statute Book. Retrieved 27 February 2013.
- ^ "Achill Island". gotoireland.today. Archived from the original on 25 March 2020. Retrieved 28 June 2021.
- ^ "FAI Club Portal for Achill Rovers". Archived from the original on 28 September 2013. Retrieved 21 September 2013.
- ^ "Achill Golf Club". Discover Ireland. 2019. Retrieved 7 February 2019.
- ^ Dave Jordan. "Achill Outdoor".
- ^ "ArcGIS Web. Application". airomaps.nuim.ie. Retrieved 21 November 2020.
- ^ "ArcGIS Web Application". census.cso.ie. Archived from the original on 28 November 2017. Retrieved 21 November 2020.
- ISBN 9780905169828. Retrieved 20 March 2012.
- ^ The Island of Talking Hugo Hamilton in the footsteps of Heinrich Böll, 50 years after
- ^ Niall (1 November 2022). "Exact Filming Locations of 'The Banshees of Inisherin' (Ultimate In-Depth Guide)". Retrieved 8 November 2022.