Brooch
A brooch (/ˈbroʊtʃ/, also US: /ˈbruːtʃ/[1]) is a decorative jewellery item designed to be attached to garments, often to fasten them together. It is usually made of metal, often silver or gold or some other material. Brooches are frequently decorated with enamel or with gemstones and may be solely for ornament or serve a practical function as a clothes fastener. The earliest known brooches are from the Bronze Age. As fashions in brooches changed rather quickly, they are important chronological indicators. In archaeology, ancient European brooches are usually referred to by the Latin term fibula.
Ancient brooches
Brooches from antiquity and before the Middle Ages are often called fibula (plural fibulae), especially in Continental contexts. British archaeologists tend to distinguish between bowed fibulae and flatter brooches, even in antiquity. They were necessary as clothes fasteners, but also often highly decorative, and important markers of social status for both men and women, from the Bronze Age onwards. In Europe, during the Iron Age, metalworking technology had advanced dramatically. The newer techniques of casting, metal bar-twisting and wire making were the basis for many new objects, including the fibula.[2] In Europe, Celtic craftsmen were creating fibulae decorated in red enamel and coral inlay, as early as 400 BC.[3]
The earliest manufacture of brooches in
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Bronze Age brooch
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Bow brooch, Iron Age
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Trumpet brooch, Iron Age
Medieval brooches
Migration period
The distinctive metalwork that was created by the
Brooches dating from this period were developed from a combination of
Brooch designs were many and varied: geometric decoration, intricate patterns, abstract designs from nature, bird motifs and running scrolls.
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East Germanic bow brooches
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Frankish disc brooch
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Frankish Bird brooch
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Lombardic brooch
Anglo-Saxon
The majority of brooches found in early Anglo-Saxon England were Continental styles that had migrated from Europe and Scandinavia. The long brooch style was most commonly found in 5th- and 6th-century England. Circular brooches first appeared in England in the middle of the 5th century.[11] During the 6th century, craftsmen from Kent began manufacturing brooches using their own distinctive styles and techniques.[12] The circular form was the preferred brooch type by the end of the 6th century.[13] During the 7th century, all brooches in England were in decline.[14] They reappeared in the 8th century and continued to be fashionable through the end of the Anglo-Saxon era.[15]
Brooch styles were predominantly circular by the middle to late Anglo-Saxon era. During this time period, the preferred styles were the annular and jewelled (Kentish) disc brooch styles. The circular forms can be divided generally into enamelled and non-enamelled styles.[15] A few non-circular style were fashionable during the 8th to 11th centuries. The ansate, the safety-pin, the strip and a few other styles can be included in this group. Ansate brooches were traditional brooches from Europe migrated to England and became fashionable in the late Anglo-Saxon period. Safety- pin brooches, more abundant in the early Anglo-Saxon period became more uncommon by the 7th century and by the 8th century, evolve into the strip brooch. Miscellaneous brooches during this time period include the bird, the ottonian, the rectangle and the cross motif.[16][17]
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Square-headed brooch
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Cruciform brooch
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Plated disc brooch
Celtic
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The penannular Rogart Brooch
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Pseudo-penannular brooch
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Roscrea Brooch, 9th century
Germanic Animal Style decoration was the foundation of Scandinavian art that was produced during the Middle Ages. The lively decorative style originated in Denmark in the late fifth century as an insular response to Late Roman style metalwork. During the early medieval period, Scandinavian craftsmen created intricately carved brooches with their signature animal style ornamentation. The brooches were generally made of copper alloy or silver.[20]
Beginning in the eighth century and lasting until the eleventh century, Scandinavian seafarers were exploring, raiding and colonising Europe, Great Britain and new lands to the west. This era of Scandinavian expansion is known as the Viking Age, and the art created during this time period is known as Viking art. Metalwork, including brooches, produced during this period were decorated in one or more of the Viking art styles. These five sequential styles are: Oseberg, Borre, Jellinge, Mammen, Ringerike and Urnes.[21]
A variety of Scandinavian brooch forms were common during this period: circular, bird-shaped, oval, equal-armed, trefoil, lozenge-shaped, and domed disc. The most common Scandinavian art styles of the period are the Jellinge and Borre art styles. Some of the characteristics of these related art styles are: interlaced gripping beasts, single animal motifs, ribbon-shaped animals, knot and ring-chain patterns, tendrils, and leaf, beast and bird motifs.[22]
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Style II bird brooch
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Borre stylebrooch
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Urnes stylebrooch
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Jellinge stylebrooch
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Trefoil brooch
Late medieval
Brooches found during the late medieval era, (1300 to 1500 AD), were worn by both men and women. Brooch shapes were generally: star-shaped, pentagonal, lobed, wheel, heart-shaped, and ring. Rings were smaller than other brooches, and often used to fasten clothing at the neck.[23] Brooch decoration usually consisted of a simple inscription or gems applied to a gold or silver base. Inscriptions of love, friendship and faith were a typical feature of ring brooches of this period. The heart-shaped brooch was a very popular gift between lovers or friends.[24]
Amulet brooches were very common prior to medieval times. In late antiquity, they were embellished with symbols of pagan deities or gems that held special powers to protect the wearer from harm. These pagan inspired brooches continued to be worn after the spread of Christianity. Pagan and Christian symbols were often combined to decorate brooches during the Middle Ages.[25] Beginning in the fourteenth century, three-dimensional brooches appeared for the first time. The Dunstable Swan Brooch is a well-known example of a three-dimensional brooch.[26]
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Amuletic Brooch
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Annular brooch 13th century
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French ring brooch 13th century
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Dunstable Swan Jewel 14th century
Early modern brooches
The early modern period of jewellery extended from 1500 to 1800. Global exploration and colonisation brought new prosperity to Europe and Great Britain along with new sources of diamonds, gems, pearls, and precious metals. The rapid changes in clothing fashion during this era generated similar changes in jewellery styles. The demand for new jewellery resulted in the deconstruction and melting down of many old jewellery pieces to create new jewellery. Because of this, there are very few surviving jewellery pieces from this era. The primary jewellery styles during this time period are: Renaissance, Georgian and Neoclassical.[27]
Renaissance
The Renaissance period in jewellery (1300–1600) was a time of wealth and opulence. Elaborate brooches covered in gemstones or pearls were in fashion, especially with the upper classes. Gemstones commonly used for brooches were emeralds, diamonds, rubies, amethyst and topaz. Brooches with religious motifs and enamelled miniature portraits were popular during this time period. Gems were often selected for their protective properties as well as their vibrant colours.[28] During the fifteenth century, new cutting techniques inspired new gemstone shapes.[29]
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Seventeenth century
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Eighteenth century
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Eighteenth century
Georgian
The Georgian jewellery era (1710–1830) was named after the four King Georges of England. In the early 1700s, ornate brooches with complex designs were fashionable. By the mid- to late 1700s, simpler forms and designs were more common, with simpler themes of nature, bows, miniature portraits and animals.[27] Georgian jewellery was typically handmade in gold or silver. Diamonds and pearls continued to be fashionable during this period.[30]
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late 18th century brooch
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18th century diamond brooch
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George III portrait brooch
Neoclassical
The Neoclassical era (1760–1830) in jewellery design was inspired by classical themes of ancient Greece and Rome. The main difference between Renaissance jewellery and neoclassical jewellery was that Renaissance jewellery was created primarily for the upper class and neoclassical jewellery was made for the general public.[31] An important innovation in jewellery making during this era was the technique of producing cameos with hard pastes called black basalt and jasper. English pottery manufacturer Josiah Wedgwood is responsible for this important contribution to jewellery making. Cameos and brooches with classical scenes were fashionable during this period. Pearls and gemstones continued to be used in brooches, but were less popular than before. The beginning of the French Revolution halted the manufacture and demand for opulent jewellery.[32]
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Italian Neoclassical Brooch
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Wedgwood medallion
Late modern brooches
The late modern era of jewellery covers the period from 1830 to 1945. The major jewellery styles of this period are: Victorian (1835–1900), Art Nouveau (1895–1914), Edwardian (1901–1910) and Art deco (1920–1939).
Victorian
This period was named for
It was fashionable during this period to incorporate hair and portraiture into a brooch. The practice began as an expression of mourning, then expanded to keepsakes of loved ones who were living. Human hair was encased within the brooch or braided and woven into a band to which clasps were affixed.[34]
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Micromosaic brooch
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Camelia brooch
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Cameo brooch
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Victorian hair brooch
Art Nouveau
The Art Nouveau period of jewellery spanned a short period from 1895 to 1905. The style began in France as a reaction to the heavy, sombre jewellery of the Victorian era. Innovative, flowing designs were now in fashion along with nature, flowers, insects and sensuous women with flowing hair. The jewellery style was fashionable for fifteen years, and ended with the beginning of World War I.[35]
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German brooch
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American brooch
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French brooch
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Belgian brooch
Edwardian
The Edwardian era of jewellery (1901–1910) began after the death of Queen Victoria. This period marked the first time platinum was used in jewellery. Because of platinum's strength, new jewellery pieces were created with delicate filigree to look like lace and silk. The main gemstones used in brooches were diamonds, typically with platinum or white gold, and coloured gemstones or pearls.[33] Platinum and diamond brooches were a common brooch style. Small brooches continued to be fashionable. Popular brooch forms were bows, ribbons, swags, and garlands, all in the delicate new style.[36]
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Pendant brooch
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Platinum brooch
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American brooch
Art Deco
The
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Art deco style
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Art deco brooch
See also
- Medieval art
- Anglo-Saxon art
- Migration period art
- Jewellery
- Lapel pin
- Badge
- Pin-back button
Notes
- ^ lexico.com
- ^ Tait 1986, p. 48.
- ^ Tait 1986, pp. 15–16.
- ^ Adams, Sophia Anne (2013). The First Brooches in Britain:from Manufacture to Deposition in the Early and Middle Iron Age (PhD). University of Leicester.
- ^ a b Black 1988, p. 107.
- ^ Tait 1986, p. 101.
- ^ Gregorietti 1969, p. 146.
- ^ a b Black 1988, p. 109.
- ^ Tait 1986, p. 107.
- ^ Gregorietti 1969, p. 139.
- ^ Stoodley 1999, pp. 17–19.
- ^ Walton-Rogers 2007, p. 121.
- ^ Owen-Crocker 2004, p. 42.
- ^ Owen-Crocker 2004, p. 138.
- ^ a b Walton-Rogers 2007, p. 113.
- ^ Weetch, Rosie (2014). Brooches in Late Anglo-Saxon England with a North West European Context (PhD). University of Reading.
- ^ "Portable Antiquities brooches". Portable Antiquities Scheme. 2018-09-07. Retrieved 16 April 2019.
- ^ Tait 1986, pp. 112–114.
- ^ Black 1988, pp. 101–103.
- ^ Graham-Campbell 2013, p. 25.
- ^ Graham-Campbell 2013, p. 21.
- ^ Graham-Campbell 2013, p. 66,88,117.
- ^ Gregorietti 1969, p. 162.
- ^ Tait 1986, pp. 138, 140.
- ^ Tait 1986, pp. 205.
- ^ Tait 1986, pp. 138.
- ^ a b Gregorietti 1969, p. 240.
- ^ "A History of Jewellery". Victoria and Albert Museum. Retrieved 21 June 2019.
- ^ Bernstein, Beth. "Jewellery through the Ages". The Jewellery Editor. Archived from the original on 19 June 2019. Retrieved 21 June 2019. The abundance of jewellery is well documented in paintings during the time period.
- ^ "Georgian: 1710 to 1830s". Mackleowe Gallery. Archived from the original on 17 June 2019. Retrieved 21 June 2019.
- ^ "Neoclasical jewelry". Antique Jewelry University. Retrieved 22 June 2019.
- ^ Gregorietti 1969, p. 245.
- ^ a b Johnson, Andrew. "A History of Classic Jewelry Periods". Longs Jewelers. Archived from the original on 19 June 2019. Retrieved 22 June 2019.
- ^ Tanenbaum, Carole; Silvan, Rita (2006). Fabulous Fakes: A Passion for Vintage Costume Jewelry. Toronto: Madison Press. pp. 12, 18–19.
- ^ Graff, Michelle. "The history behind Art Nouveau Jewelry". National Jeweler. Retrieved 22 June 2019.
- ^ "Edwardian Jewelry: 1901-1915". Antique University. Retrieved 23 June 2019.
- ^ "Art Deco era Jewellery". Antique University. Retrieved 23 June 2019.
- ^ "Jewelry Timeline". History of Jewelry. Retrieved 16 June 2019.
References
- Hellenic Ministry of Culture: Katie Demakopoulou, "Bronze Age Jewellery in Greece"
- Graham-Campbell, James (2013). Viking Art. Thames & Hudson Publishing. ISBN 978-0500204191.
- ISBN 9781843830818.
- Owen Crocker, Gale (2011). "Chapter 7: Dress and Identity". In Hamerow, Helena; Hinton, David A.; Crawford, Sally (eds.). The Oxford Handbook of Anglo-Saxon Archaeology. Oxford University Press. pp. 91–116.
- Stoodley, Nick (1999). The Spindle and the Spear: A Critical Enquiry into the Construction and Meaning of Gender in the Early Anglo-Saxon Burial Rite. British Archaeological Reports, British Series 288. ISBN 978-1841711171.
- Walton-Rogers, Penelope (2007). Cloth and Clothing in Early Anglo-saxon England AD 450-700. Council for British Archaeology. ISBN 978-1902771540.
- Black, J. Anderson (1988). A History of Jewellery: Five Thousand Years. Random House Publishing. ISBN 978-0517344378.
- Gregorietti, Guido (1969). Jewelry Through the Ages. American Heritage. ISBN 978-0828100076.
- Tait, Hugh (1986). 7000 Years of Jewellery. British Museum. ISBN 978-1554073955.
External links
- Media related to brooches at Wikimedia Commons