Dithmarschen
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Dithmarschen | |
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Country | Germany |
State | Schleswig-Holstein |
Capital | Heide |
Government | |
• District admin. | Stefan Mohrdieck |
Area | |
• Total | 1,405 km2 (542 sq mi) |
Population (31 December 2022)[1] | |
• Total | 135,252 |
• Density | 96/km2 (250/sq mi) |
Time zone | UTC+01:00 (CET) |
• Summer (DST) | UTC+02:00 (CEST) |
Vehicle registration | HEI, MED |
Website | dithmarschen.de |
Dithmarschen (German pronunciation:
Geography
The district is located on the North Sea. It is embraced by the Elbe estuary to the south and the Eider estuary to the north. Today it forms a kind of artificial island, surrounded by the Eider river in the north and the Kiel Canal in both the east and southeast. It is a rather flat countryside that was once full of fens and swamps.
To the north it borders on
The main roads and rail lines in Schleswig-Holstein follow a north–south direction, making Hamburg its most accessible city.
The district has a maximum north–south length of 54 kilometers and an east–west length of 41 kilometers. The highest point, near Schrum in the geestland, is 78 metres (256 ft) meters above sea level and the lowest point, near Burg, is 0.5 metres (1 ft 8 in) below sea level.
Dithmarschen's landscape owes its character to the North Sea. From west to east Dithmarschen consists of the Wadden Sea, marsh, bog, and the geestland. The North Sea had a higher sea level 6,500 years ago than today and the coastline then ran along the geestland. About 4,500 years ago, geestland structures were connected by sand and gravel depositions that formed spits. Bogs, lakes, and swamps emerged as the area behind the spits no longer flooded. After the first plants (glasswort) took root, the land transformed first to salt marshes and finally to marshes. These marshes rank among the most fertile of Germany's soils. Vegetable farming in Dithmarschen produces the highest yields in Schleswig-Holstein.
Since about the 8th century, the people of Dithmarschen have been living on
Flora and fauna
While the Geest has some woods, trees are found in marshlands only in form of wind protection around houses or villages. Traditional are the Knicks , tree rows with strong undergrowth to protect agricultural land from the wind.
In Dithmarschen lay several bogs. A special position is taken with the "Weißes Moor" (White bog), the only bog still existing in quite natural shape in the Schleswig-Holstein marsh land.
Part of the
Three sand banks,
History
High Middle Ages
In medieval times the marshland villages of Dithmarschen enjoyed remarkable autonomy. Neighbouring princes often tried to bring Dithmarschen under their control.
After 1180 Prince-Archbishop
Prince-Archbishop
In 1192 the Bremian Chapter elected Valdemar as its new Prince-Archbishop. Valdemar welcomed his election, hoping his new position could be helpful in his dispute with Duke Valdemar of Schleswig and his elder brother Canute VI of Denmark. Before entering the Prince-Archbishopric of Bremen he won the support of Dithmarschen.
Late Middle Ages
In the 15th century the Ditmarsians confederated in a
In 1484 Magnus of Saxe-Lauenburg,[3] then vicegerent of the Land of Hadeln, failed to subjugate the free Frisian peasants in the Land of Wursten, a de facto autonomous region in a North Sea marsh at the Weser estuary, which was under the loose overlordship of the Prince-Archbishopric of Bremen.[4][5] This foreshadowed a series of feudal attempts to subdue regions of free peasants, an alarming signal for the Ditmarsians and the free peasants in other marshes in the area.[6]
In April 1499 Count John XIV of Oldenburg invaded the Weser and North Sea marshes of Stadland and Butjadingen, both of which the Prince-Archbishopric of Bremen claimed overlordship over, in order to subject their free peasants.[5] Bremen's prince-archbishop Johann Rode tried to form a military alliance to repel these invasions, and prevent further ones, first rallying the cities of Bremen, Hamburg and Stade, as they considered the areas downstream of the rivers Elbe and Weser their own front yard: essential for their free maritime trade connections. Rode won the Ditmarsians too, for a defensive alliance to protect Wursten, concluded on 1 May 1499.[7] On 1 August the alliance, now also including Buxtehude, committed themselves to supply 1,300 warriors and equipment to defend Wursten and/or invade Hadeln.[5]
Conversely,
Rode then waged feud against John V of Saxe-Lauenburg on 9 September 1499.[8] The allied forces, with the Ditmarsians invading by crossing the Elbe, easily conquered the Land of Hadeln, and defeated Magnus.[4][9][ambiguous]
While the cities desired a peaceful front yard without another's powerful influence, the Ditmarsians instead favoured the favour of autonomy of the free peasants. Hamburg and the Ditmarsians fell out with each other. On 16 September 1499, a landsknecht hired by Hamburg slew Cordt von der Lieth, a member of the Bremian ministerialis, causing the Otterndorf Strife (Otterndorfer Streit).[10] The landsknecht created rumours that it had instead been a Ditmarsian who had slain von der Lieth, and fled after. Hamburg's landsknechts then attacked the uninvolved Ditmarsians and slew 76 men in their military camp near Otterndorf.[10] Consequently, Dithmarschen cancelled its alliance with Rode, Bremen and Hamburg, and the Ditmarsians returned home.[10] Hamburg aimed at reestablishing its rule in Hadeln, as it had wielded between 1407 and 1481 when Saxe-Lauenburg had given Hadeln to Hamburg as security for a credit. The relationship between Dithmarschen and Hamburg then turned icy, and Ditmarsians captured, according to the traditional wrecking custom, wrecked Hamburgian ships and their freight, if they foundered around the shores of Dithmarschen. (Earlier, Hamburg and Dithmarschen had agreed to replace this practice with a reward for rescuing ships, freight and crew.) The parties only reconciled in 1512.
By 20 November 1499 Magnus hired the so-called Black Guard of 6,000 ruthless and violent mostly Dutch and East Frisian mercenaries, commanded by Thomas Slentz, prior operating in the County of Oldenburg.[4][8] The Black Guard invaded the Prince-Archbishopric of Bremen, passing through and ravaging areas in the Prince-Bishopric of Verden and the Brunswick-Lunenburgian Principality of Lunenburg-Celle, leaving behind a wake of devastation in the countryside and especially in the looted monasteries.[11][12]
Finally, on Christmas Eve, arriving down the Weser in
Rode then converted Henry IV the Elder to his column, with Henry the Elder and his troops then hunting the Black Guard.
In 1513 the Ditmarsians founded a
Post-Medieval History
After the victory of Hemmingstedt Dithmarschen regularly sent its delegates to the
It was not until 1559 and the Last Feud between the King of Denmark and the Ditmarsians that the free peasants were forced to give up their political and religious autonomy by the successful invasion commanded by Count Johan Rantzau from Steinburg, one of the best strategists of the time. Since then the coat of arms of Dithmarschen has shown a warrior on horseback, representing a knight of Rantzau. This knight has later been identified with Saint George, then considered to be the patron of Dithmarschen.
The conquerors – King Frederick II, Duke Adolf, and Duke John II the Elder – divided Dithmarschen into two parts: the south became a part of Holstein in personal union with Denmark while the north came into the possession of the other Duke of Holstein. From 1773 all of Holstein was united in personal union with Denmark and remained so until 1864, when, following the Second Schleswig War, the Duchies of Holstein and of Schleswig became an occupied territory of the German Confederation. Two years later, following the Austro-Prussian War, Dithmarschen became part of the Kingdom of Prussia, which annexed Holstein and Schleswig making them subsequently the Province of Schleswig-Holstein.
The Middle Ages in Dithmarschen are held to have continued into the 19th century, when the Kiel Canal was completed, fens began to be drained, and agricultural reforms took place. Within the Bundesland Schleswig-Holstein, the area remained divided into the districts of Norderdithmarschen (Northern Ditmarsh) and Süderdithmarschen (Southern Ditmarsh) before they were united in 1970 as the district of Dithmarschen.
Culture
Traditions
The people of Dithmarschen have displayed great pride in their history. In recent decades many traditions have been revitalized and new events in a traditional fashion have been created.
Language
High German is by now the dominant language but
The best known author of "high literature" in Low German was
Architecture
The Dithmarschen landscape was long dominated by churches. Palaces were never built in the farmers' republic. The few castles that were constructed played only minor roles and have long since been reduced to groundworks. In contrast, churches were symbols of not only spiritual but also worldly power. The medieval republic organised itself into Parishes ("Kirchspiele") centered on churches. A Dithmarschen church was not just a sacral building; it was also the primary place for political meetings. Administration of spiritual and political matters was done by the same people in the same place, so little need for representative secular buildings arose. Political and religious life in Dithmarschen remained undivided until Schleswig-Holstein's integration into Prussia in 1867.
In the flat marshland of Dithmarschen, church towers can often be seen from more than 10 kilometers away. Churches are built on the highest point of the Terpen in the center of villages such as Wesselburen, Marne, and Wöhrden. Village streets run toward the central church, giving these villages a distinct medieval character. It is likely that older houses were removed to make room for these churches. In the Geest, the village church stands on the medieval rim of the village or with other houses within it; the settlements of the Geest existed before their churches were built and there was no special need to protect these churches from flooding.
The most important church of Dithmarschen was the so-called
Today's church was built in the 14th century. While the outside was mainly rebuilt in the 19th century, inside one can still see Gothic architecture from the years 1250 to 1300. The paintings are among the most magnificent in Schleswig-Holstein, giving an impression of the former wealth of the farmers' republic.
St. Jürgen church in Heide began as a chapel built in the 15th century. Due to conflicts in Dithmarschen, Meldorf lost its role as central meeting point. The people of northern Dithmarschen began to meet in 1447 "auf der Heide" ("on the heath"); later, the Council of the 48—representatives of the most important families and the central decision body of Dithmarschen—met at St. Jürgen. The core of the long, single-nave church is still the 15th-century building. Its outer appearance is dominated by a late-renaissance three-story tower added by Johann Georg Schott in 1724.
St. Bartholomäus in Wesselburen was also built in 1737/1738 by Johann Georg Schott. He constructed the baroque building from the remains of older churches after Wesselburen burned down in 1736. Its onion dome is highly unusual for Northern Germany. Also notable are the 12th-century church in Tellingstedt and the churches in Hemme and Büsum, which display the traditional coat of arms of the "Geschlechter" inside.
Education
In 1993 Schleswig-Holstein's latest
In 2004, 17,900 students were studying in Dithmarschen schools. In the district there are six
Economy
The Dithmarschen economy consists mainly of tourism, agriculture, and energy. Tourism is concentrated in the north in Büsum and in the south in Friedrichskoog. Most tourists come as families to enjoy the North Sea beaches. A significant number of tourists also come for bicycle trekking. Almost all of the approximately two million tourists each year come from Germany.
The unemployment rate was 11.6% in September 2004. After the
In recent years the number of people who live in Dithmarschen but work in Hamburg and its surroundings has steadily risen. In 2002 9,200 people drove to work outside the district, including 1,700 who commuted to Hamburg.
Energy
Commercial wind farming in Germany began in Dithmarschen. Germany's first
In Dithmarschen stand around 800
The offshore oil field Mittelplate close to the coast produces 2 million tons of petroleum, around 54% of German production. The refinery in Hemmingstedt processes around 4 million tons of oil each year, partly from Mittelplate and partly from oil delivered through the Brunsbüttel port. Another oil field between Heide and Hemmingstedt was active until 1991. The nuclear power plant in Brunsbuttel is one of the oldest in Germany. It delivers cheap energy for the important aluminium industry in Schleswig-Holstein. It is supposed to close down in 2009.
Tourism
The main tourist attractions in Dithmarschen are the North Sea and the Wadden Sea National Park. The district owns about 10 kilometers of green beaches; Büsum also provides an artificial sandy beach. In 2003, 205,382 tourists spent 1,173,205 nights in Dithmarschen, most of them in Büsum (756,630 nights), which is ranked before Friedrichskoog (75,654) and Büsumer Deichhausen (33,811). Tourism has declined slightly over the last few years but not as much as tourism on the Schleswig-Holstein Baltic coast. Recent competition with the former Warsaw Pact states and their Baltic coasts has had less impact on Dithmarschen because their coastal formations are quite different.
Entrance fees for beaches raise heated controversy in the district. Büsum (around 1,000,000 beach visits each year) and Friedrichskoog (300,000) impose a fee. However, most smaller villages nearby do not.
The tourism industry in Dithmarschen is trying to diversify tourist attractions. Fitness and health play an increasing role in German life, so tracks and roads for bicycles and inline skates are being built. Part of the
Coat of arms
The district coat of arms displays a knight of Holstein. This coat of arms was unpopular for many years in Dithmarschen because it was the sign of conquerors. These arms were used by governors but were not accepted by the people. In 1930, when these ancient hostilities had become irrelevant, this coat of arms was re-introduced in slightly different forms by both South Dithmarschen and North Dithmarschen. When both districts were united in 1970, the arms of South Dithmarschen became the symbol of the newly merged district.
Towns and municipalities
Towns and municipalities in Dithmarschen developed from the old parishes that were independent political divisions in the medieval farmers' republic. These parishes existed as primary political divisions until the 19th century. Only Meldorf was able to develop an urban structure during the Middle Ages.
In more recent times Heide became a rival to Meldorf. Wesselburen and Wöhrden had some importance as central villages of the rich northern marshland.
After Schleswig-Holstein was annexed by Prussia in 1867, some villages became towns and therefore administratively left their old parishes: Meldorf in 1869, Heide in 1878, Marne in 1891, and Wesselburen in 1899. The old village of Brunsbüttel and the newly founded Brunsbüttelkoog united in 1970 to become the town of Brunsbüttel.
Parishes were finally dissolved and single villages became independent during the Nazi period. For efficient administration, municipalities are united in
The largest town by population is Heide. Büsum has a special role as tourist resort. Although a member of an Amt, its summertime population swells to become the largest in the district.
In socio-geographics the difference between marshland and the higher, dryer uplands has played an important role. The fertile marshland was historically rich while the uplands were poor but less prone to flooding. The two most important towns, Heide and Meldorf, were built on the safe geest but directly adjacent to marshland where people could have their fields.
(Population on 30 September 2005)
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Twinning
Dithmarschen is currently twinned with Restormel, a borough in the British county of Cornwall. The main link is between St Austell and Newquay and Heide.
Notable residents
- Klaus Groth (1819–1899), a Low German poet
- Hans Bothmann (1911–1946), Nazi SS concentration camp commandant
References
- Elke Freifrau von Boeselager, "Das Land Hadeln bis zum Beginn der frühen Neuzeit", in: Geschichte des Landes zwischen Elbe und Weser: 3 vols., Hans-Eckhard Dannenberg and Heinz-Joachim Schulze (eds.), Stade: Landschaftsverband der ehem. Herzogtümer Bremen und Verden, 1995 and 2008, vol. I "Vor- und Frühgeschichte" (1995; ISBN 3-9801919-9-0), (=Schriftenreihe des Landschaftsverbandes der ehem. Herzogtümer Bremen und Verden; vols. 7–9), vol. II: pp. 321–388.
- Philippe Dollinger, Die Hanse [La Hanse (XIIe-XVIIe siècles), Paris: Aubier, 1964; German] (11966), ext. ed., Hans Krabusch and Marga Krabusch (trls.), Stuttgart: Kröner, 51998, (Kröners Taschenbuchausgabe; vol. 371). ISBN 3-520-37105-7.
- Karl Ernst Hermann Krause (1881), "Johann III. (Erzbischof von Bremen)", Allgemeine Deutsche Biographie (in German), vol. 14, Leipzig: Duncker & Humblot, pp. 183–185
- Heinz-Joachim Schulze (1974), "Johann III. Rode", Neue Deutsche Biographie (in German), vol. 10, Berlin: Duncker & Humblot, pp. 480–481
- Michael Schütz, "Die Konsolidierung des Erzstiftes unter Johann Rode", in: Geschichte des Landes zwischen Elbe und Weser: 3 vols., Hans-Eckhard Dannenberg and Heinz-Joachim Schulze (eds.), Stade: Landschaftsverband der ehem. Herzogtümer Bremen und Verden, 1995 and 2008, vol. I "Vor- und Frühgeschichte" (1995; ISBN 3-9801919-9-0), (=Schriftenreihe des Landschaftsverbandes der ehem. Herzogtümer Bremen und Verden; vols. 7–9), vol. II: pp. 263–278.
Notes
- Statistisches Amt für Hamburg und Schleswig-Holstein.
- ^ a b c d e f Die Hanse [La Hanse (XIIe-XVIIe siècles); German], in Dollinger 1964, p. 124.
- ^ Magnus was a successor of Duke Bernhard III in the eighth generation.
- ^ a b c d "Johann III., Erzbischof von Bremen", in Krause 1881, vol. 14, pp. 183–185, here p. 184.
- ^ a b c d "Die Konsolidierung des Erzstiftes unter Johann Rode", in Schütz 1995, vol. II, pp. 263–278, here p. 266.
- ^ Such as Altes Land, Land of Hadeln, Haseldorfer Marsch, Kehdingen, and Wilstermarsch, also known as the Elbe Marshes, Land of Wursten, Butjadingen and Stadland (both part of today's Weser Marsh), as well as Stedingen, the Land of Würden, both marshes of free peasants also located on the banks of the Weser. Cf. "Johann III., Erzbischof von Bremen", in Krause 1881, vol. 14, pp. 183–185, here p. 184.
- ^ a b "Das Land Hadeln bis zum Beginn der frühen Neuzeit", in Boeselager 1995, vol. II, pp. 321–388, here p. 332.
- ^ a b "Die Konsolidierung des Erzstiftes unter Johann Rode", in Schütz 1995, vol. II, pp. 263–278, here p. 267.
- ^ Heinz-Joachim Schulze, "Johann III. Rode", in: see references for bibliographical details, vol. 10, pp. 480seq., here p. 480.
- ^ a b c d "Das Land Hadeln bis zum Beginn der frühen Neuzeit", in Boeselager 1995, vol. II, pp. 321–388, here p. 333.
- ^ "Johann III., Erzbischof von Bremen", in Krause 1881, vol. 14, pp. 183–185, here p. 185seq.
- ^ "Die Konsolidierung des Erzstiftes unter Johann Rode", in Schütz 1995, vol. II, pp. 263–278, here pp. 267 et seq.
- ^ a b "Johann III., Erzbischof von Bremen", in Krause 1881, vol. 14, pp. 183–185, here p. 185.
- ^ a b "Die Konsolidierung des Erzstiftes unter Johann Rode", in Schütz 1995, vol. II, pp. 263–278, here pp. 268.
- ^ Thies Völker, Die Dithmarscher Landeskirche 1523–1559: Selbständige bauernstaatliche Kirchenorganisation in der Frühneuzeit Archived 30 June 2017 at the Wayback Machine, section 'Konfliktauslöser: Besetzung der Pfarrstellen und Klosterprojekt', posted on 16 July 2009 on: suite101.de: Das Netzwerk der Autoren Archived 5 September 2018 at the Wayback Machine.
- ^ Thies Völker, Die Dithmarscher Landeskirche 1523–1559: Selbständige bauernstaatliche Kirchenorganisation in der Frühneuzeit Archived 30 June 2017 at the Wayback Machine, section 'Gründung der Landeskirche 1523', posted on 16 July 2009 on: suite101.de: Das Netzwerk der Autoren Archived 5 September 2018 at the Wayback Machine.
- ^ Thies Völker, Die Dithmarscher Landeskirche 1523–1559: Selbständige bauernstaatliche Kirchenorganisation in der Frühneuzeit Archived 30 June 2017 at the Wayback Machine, section 'Heinrich von Zütphen 1524', posted on 16 July 2009 on: suite101.de: Das Netzwerk der Autoren Archived 5 September 2018 at the Wayback Machine.
- ^ Thies Völker, Die Dithmarscher Landeskirche 1523–1559: Selbständige bauernstaatliche Kirchenorganisation in der Frühneuzeit Archived 30 June 2017 at the Wayback Machine, section 'Sieg der Reformation 1533', posted on 16 July 2009 on: suite101.de: Das Netzwerk der Autoren Archived 5 September 2018 at the Wayback Machine.
External links
- Official Restormel Dithmarschen Twinning Homepage (English)
- Official website (German)
- www.dithmarschen-wiki.de Encyclopaedia of Dithmarschen (German)
- www.museum-albersdorf.de Museum Website, thorough information about the history of Dithmarschen, author: Dr. Volker Arnold (German with English abstracts)
- The Dithmarschen Wars (English)
- Battle of Hemmingstedt, image