Moire (fabric)
Moire (
Method of production
Moire is produced from two distinctly different methods of finishing. Calendering produces the true moire, known as "moire antique" and "moire Anglaise", which is a purely physical phenomenon. In calendering, the fabric is folded lengthwise in half with the face side inward, and with the two
Changeable moire is a term for fabric with a warp of one color and a weft of another, which gives different effects in different lights.[6]
Moire fabric is more delicate than fabric of the same type that has not gone through the calendering process. Also, contact with water removes the watermark and causes staining.[5] Moire feels thin, glossy and papery due to the calendering process.[3] Generally moire is made out of fabrics with a good body and defined ribs, such as grosgrain. Fabrics with defined ribs show the watered effect better than smooth fabrics like satin. Taffeta also works well.[3] Fabrics with defined enough ribs can be calendered with smooth rollers and produce a moire finish; however generally the rollers have ribs that correspond to the grain of the fabric. The moire effect may be obtained on silk, worsted, or cotton fabrics, though it is impossible to develop it on anything other than a grained or fine corded weave.[7]
Moire can also be produced by running fabric through engraved copper rollers.[2]
Etymology
In French, the adjective moiré (in use since at least 1823) derives from the earlier verb moirer, "to produce a watered textile by weaving or pressing". Moirer, in turn, is a variation of the word mouaire which is an adoption of the English mohair (in use since at least 1570). Mohair comes from the Arabic mukhayyar (مُخَيَّر, lit. "chosen"), a cloth made from the wool of the Angora goat. Mukhayyar (مُخَيَّر) descends from khayyara (خيّر, lit. "he chose"). "Chosen" is meant in the sense of "a choice, or excellent, cloth".[8]
By 1660 (in the writings of Samuel Pepys), moire (or moyre) had been adopted in English.
History
During the
See also
References
- ^ a b Harmuth, Louis (1915). Dictionary of textiles. Fairchild publishing company. p. 106. Retrieved July 8, 2009.
- ^ a b c d Encyclopædia Britannica 1949, volume 15, p. 661
- ^ a b c d Textile World Record. Lord & Nagle Co. 1907. p. 118. Retrieved July 8, 2009.
- ISBN 0-435-41786-X. Retrieved July 8, 2009.
- ^ ISBN 0-7112-0995-2. Retrieved July 8, 2009.
- ISBN 0-486-29711-X. Retrieved July 8, 2009.
- ^ a b William Dooley, Textiles for Commercial, Industrial and Domestic Arts Schools, D. C. Heath & Company: 1910: pp:223
- ISBN 9781853263118.