Grosgrain
Grosgrain (
"Grosgrain" is commonly used to refer to a heavy, stiff ribbon of
Etymology
Grosgrain is both a direct
Thus gros gram, grogram and grosgrain are all one and the same: a large grain - hence coarse - texture fabric.[11][13]
The term grog, meaning alcohol, is related to the term grogram. In the 1740s, Admiral Edward Vernon, who was known as "Old Grog" because of the grogram cloak he wore, introduced the rum ration in the British Royal Navy. It is from his attire that the naval term grog is derived.[14][15][16][17]
Moire
Moire is a waved or watered effect produced especially on grosgrain silk and woolen moreen via engraved rollers and high pressure on carded material. The end result is a peculiar luster which works best when made from a corded fabric like grosgrain.[18]
During the Middle Ages, moire was held in high esteem and was, as currently, used for women's dresses, for capes, and for facings, trimmings, etc.[19]
Use in clothing
History
Throughout the 17th century, grosgrain
Throughout the 1920s, the term grosgrain seems to have remained true to original definition as a garment fabric.[23] However, during the 1920s, it fell out of favor as a garment fabric, and was defined identically to contemporary terminology as a grosgrain ribbon.
Structural uses
Lustrous grosgrain is used extensively to join female semi-detached clothing articles such as bodices to skirts and similar, where this necessary joint may be visible.[24] Ribbed grosgrain may be used similarly to twill tape for internal gussets and reinforcements. Grosgrain ribbon is often used for facings and for waistbands.[25][26] McCall's Sewing Book states: "grosgrain ribbon is used with any heavy fabric to reduce bulk", though it may be the word "bulk" is used in the sense of outward appearance, rather than actual mass. McCall elaborates: "grosgrain is used to finish the back of novelty braid or to face the back of any fabric belt."[25][26][27]
Evening wear
As a more subtle option to
Millinery
Grosgrain is also used in
Other uses
Book-binding
Grosgrain fabric and ribbon are common structural fabrics for the joining or reinforcement of spines or sheaves in fine commercial and hobby bookbinding and book restoration.[31]
Graduation leis
When it comes to graduation leis, various types of ribbons can be used to create decorative accents and secure the flowers or other elements together. Grosgrain ribbon has a ribbed texture and is slightly thicker than satin ribbon. It provides a more textured and structured appearance to the lei. Grosgrain ribbon is available in various colors and patterns.[32]
Cargo and packing use
A particular characteristic of grosgrain ribbon is that the thicker weft resists longitudinal curling, and so it exerts an even pressure when tied around crushable materials. Nylon grosgrain is often used as heavy-duty webbing or binding around luggage, packs, messenger bags and other heavy-use "soft" goods. It is also used for securing cargo. It can be dyed and is available in a variety of colours, though it is typically dyed black.
Early seat belts and military webbing during World War II was typically made of hemp, jute or linen grosgrain.
Craft
Grosgrain made out of cotton or low-cost
Lanyards
This section possibly contains original research. (September 2014) |
Grosgrain woven from cotton or low-cost synthetic fibres such as polyester are very popular for use as lanyard, straps, and are often sold printed for use by large corporate companies as a marketing or branding tool.
Percussion
Polyester grosgrain in a 5⁄8 in (16 mm) width can be used as the tensioning material attaching the snares of a snare drum to the throw-off mechanism, with the ribbing providing good insurance against slippage. Some musicians use it in an attempt to lessen sympathetic snare buzz from external sources, as it will hold the tab ends of the snares closer to the head than string, providing more damping than mylar straps.
See also
Notes
- ^ Grosgrain is known as a "corded" fabric as the weft, being thicker than the warp, resembles a fine cord running through the fabric.
References
- ^ "grosgrain". Dictionary.com Unabridged (Online). n.d.
- ^ ISBN 978-0-393-73224-5. Retrieved July 10, 2009.
- ^ Kate Heinz Watson, Textiles and Clothing American School of Home Economics, Chicago: 1907: pp 91 [1]
- ^ a b Thompson, Eliza Bailey (1922). Silk. The Ronald press company. pp. 134–135. Retrieved July 10, 2009.
- ^ Banner, Bertha (1898). Household Sewing with Home Dressmaking. Longmans, Green, and co. p. 106. Retrieved July 10, 2009.
- ^ ISBN 0-02-862406-8. Retrieved July 10, 2009.
- ^ Cole, George S. (1892). A Complete Dictionary of Dry Goods and History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool. W.B. Conkey Co. p. 171. Retrieved July 10, 2009.
- ^ Cheney Brothers, James Chittick, Emanuel Anthony Posselt, Berlitz Schools of Languages, A glossary of silk terms, including a short history of silk: its origin, culture and manufacture Cheney Brothers: 1915
- ISBN 0-8018-6784-3, 671 pages: pp 121
- ^ Merriam-Webster's collegiate dictionary, Merriam-Webster Inc: pp 551
- ^ ISBN 0-486-21873-2: pp 668
- ^ "Grosgrain". The Oxford English Dictionary. 2nd ed. 1989.
- ^ Charles Talbut Onions, George Washington Salisbury Friedrichsen, R. W. Burchfield, The Oxford dictionary of English etymology, Clarendon P.: 1966: 1025 pages
- )
- ^ Macdonald, J (2004). Feeding Nelson's Navy. Chatham Publishing.
- ^ Navy Victually Board Regulations and Instructions 14th editio. 1806.
- ^ Rodger, N (1986). The Wooden World: An Anatomy of the Georgian Navy. William Collins.
- ^ Textile World Record. Lord & Nagle Co. 1907. p. 118. Retrieved July 8, 2009.
- ^ William Dooley, Textiles for Commercial, Industrial and Domestic Arts Schools, D. C. Heath & Company: 1910: pp. 223 [2]
- ISBN 90-5356-917-0. Retrieved July 10, 2009.
- ISBN 978-0-89672-589-8. Retrieved July 10, 2009.
- ^ Zelma Bendure, Gladys Bendure Pfeiffer, America's fabrics: origin and history, manufacture, characteristics and uses, The Macmilln Company: 1946, 688 pages
- ^ Ellen Beers McGowan, Charlotte Augusta Waite, A.. Textiles and clothing, Macmillan: 1919: 268 pages
- ^ McCall's Sewing Book, Random House: 1968: 198, 224
- ^ ISBN 1-56158-497-5. Retrieved July 10, 2009.
- ^ ISBN 1-56158-551-3. Retrieved July 10, 2009.
- ^ McCall's Sewing Book, Random House: 1968, 308 pages: pp 226
- ISBN 1-85177-116-6, 176 pages, pp 174
- ^ ISBN 978-1-58816-746-0. Retrieved July 10, 2009.
- ^ Zelma Bendure, Gladys Bendure Pfeiffer, America's fabrics: origin and history, manufacture, characteristics and uses, The Macmillan Company: 1946, 688 pages.
- ^ ISBN 1-884718-11-6. Retrieved July 10, 2009.
- ^ What kind of ribbon is used for graduation leis Retrieved 16 February 2021
- ISBN 1-56158-337-5. Retrieved July 10, 2009.