St Donat's Castle
St Donat's Castle | |
---|---|
Native name Welsh: Castell Sain Dunwyd | |
Type | Castle |
Location | St Donats, Llantwit Major |
Coordinates | 51°24′07″N 3°32′00″W / 51.4020°N 3.5334°W |
Area | Vale of Glamorgan |
Built | c. 1300 onwards |
Owner | Atlantic College |
Listed Building – Grade I | |
Official name | St Donats Castle (United World College of the Atlantic), including entrance Bridge |
Designated | 16 December 1952 |
Reference no. | 13325 |
Listed Building – Grade I | |
Official name | Walls, Steps, Terraces, Pavilion, Summerhouses and Cottage attached to wall of the Hanging Gardens |
Designated | 22 February 1963 |
Reference no. | 13326 |
Official name | St Donats Castle Gardens |
Designated | 1 February 2022 |
Reference no. | PGW(Gm)30(GLA) |
Listing | Grade I |
St Donat's Castle (
During the 18th century, the castle's status and condition declined and by the early 19th century it was only partly habitable. The later 19th and early 20th centuries saw several restorations. In 1852, it was purchased by John Whitlock Nicholl Carne, who claimed descent from the Stradlings but whose efforts at reconstruction were not well regarded. More enlightened improvements were made by its subsequent owner, the coal magnate Morgan Stuart Williams.
The castle's transformation occurred after its purchase in 1925 by
In 1960, some nine years after Hearst's death, it was purchased by the son of the businessman and educational philanthropist
History
Stradling family: 1300–1738
According to tradition, the site of St Donat's was the place to which
The
His son, the scholar
During the English Civil War the Stradlings, prominent Royalists, supported Charles I and hosted the archbishop James Ussher, when he had to flee Cardiff.[21] Three Stradlings fought at the Battle of St Fagans in 1648 and two were forced into exile after the King's execution.[22] After the Civil War, the family declined in importance[23] and ceased to occupy any significant position in the country and, ultimately, within Glamorgan.[24] They retained ownership of St Donat's Castle until the death of Sir Thomas Stradling in a duel in France in 1738.[25] The exact circumstances of his death are uncertain; he was travelling with his university friend Sir John Tyrwhitt, with whom he had reputedly made a pact, each promising the other his inheritance in the event of his death. Sources dispute whether the duel was actually between Stradling and Tyrwhitt,[26] or was contrived by Tyrwhitt.[25] In either event, Stradling was killed and Tyrwhitt inherited his estates.[26][d]
Decline and recovery: 1739–1925
Under the Tyrwhitts, the castle entered a long decline that lasted over one hundred years.[5] J. M. W. Turner sketched the partly-ruinous castle in 1798.[27] John Wesley is reputed to have preached to a crowd of five thousand people on the terraced lawns in 1777.[28] Partial restoration was started by Dr John Whitlock Nicholl Carne, who claimed to be descended from the Stradlings, and bought the castle from the Tyrwhitt-Drake family in 1862.[29] Carne's reconstructions have not generally been well-regarded; the historian of the castle Alan Hall described the work as being undertaken in an "unscholarly, inauthentic style".[28] A more sympathetic, contemporaneous, account described Carne's efforts as "careful and scrupulous".[19]
Morgan Williams, a colliery owner from Aberpergwm and the owner in the Edwardian period, from 1901 to 1909,[30][e] carried out extensive and careful restoration, employing the noted architects George Frederick Bodley and Thomas Garner.[32] Williams's sensitive reconstructions were praised by Henry Avray Tipping, the writer, architect and garden designer.[33] The architectural writer Michael Hall was also impressed, describing Bodley's drawing room as "Edwardian antiquarian taste at its most refined".[2] The process of reconstruction was less harmonious, Williams and Garner rowed constantly and Garner ultimately resigned.[2] Almost all of Bodley and Garner's work was eradicated in the "brutal" remodelling undertaken by William Randolph Hearst.[2] Williams also assembled a collection of arms and armour which was housed at the castle,[32] and made major improvements to the castle's setting, moving the village which previously stood close to the castle's walls to a new location outside of the gates and constructing three entrance lodges.[28] In 1903, the novelist Violet Paget, writing under her pseudonym Vernon Lee, used the castle as the model for St Salvat's Castle in her Gothic novel Penelope Brandling: A Tale of the Welsh Coast in the Eighteenth Century.[34] Godfrey Williams, Morgan's son, disliked St Donat's, by tradition on account of its being haunted[28] although this is disputed,[35] and in 1921, having first culled the herd of deer that his father had reintroduced to the park,[36] put the castle up for sale. Its advertisement in The Times, dated 3 May 1921, described the castle as "a comfortable and liveable old-world home of the first importance".[37] In 1922, it was bought, along with 123 acres (50 ha) of land, by Richard Pennoyer, an American diplomat married to the Dowager Countess of Shrewsbury.[5] Pennoyer was to own St Donat's for less than three years.[35]
William Randolph Hearst: 1925–1960
Hearst attracted strong opinions.
Hearst did not visit until September 1928, and even then spent only one night in residence.[33] Having undertaken a night-time tour of the castle which was illuminated by kerosene lamps, he left the following morning to board the Berengaria for New York. During the voyage home he wrote a 25-page memorandum with instructions for further improvements to the castle.[56] Over the next decade his time at St Donat's amounted to some four months; between his purchase in 1925 and his death in 1951 he visited, normally for a month at the end of his summer European tours, in 1930, 1931, 1934[57] and, for the last time, in 1936.[33] His infrequent visits were invariably undertaken with a large entourage, whom he sometimes took for drinks to the Old Swan Inn at the nearby village of Llantwit Major.[58][h] Among his guests were the actors Charlie Chaplin, Douglas Fairbanks, Errol Flynn and Clark Gable, in addition to politicians including Winston Churchill, David Lloyd George and a young John F. Kennedy, who visited with his parents, Joseph P. Kennedy Sr. and Rose Kennedy.[60] Visiting writers included Elinor Glyn,[60] Ivor Novello and Bernard Shaw.[33][61][62] Of St Donat's, Shaw was quoted as saying: "This is what God would have built if he had had the money."[63][i]
In the late 1930s Hearst's publishing empire came close to collapse.[65] St Donat's was put up for sale in 1937, the Hearst Corporation noting that it had invested £280,000 in the castle through its subsidiary the National Magazine Company.[44] An opinion on the chances of recouping this sum was sought from James Milner, a prominent solicitor and Deputy Speaker of the House of Commons. His response was not encouraging: "We have at St Donat's a white elephant of the rarest species."[44] Billy Butlin, the holiday-camp entrepreneur, was uninterested and a development proposal by Sir Julian Hodge did not progress.[66] Much of the furniture, silver and works of art were disposed of in a series of sales conducted by Christie's and Sotheby's which began in 1937 and continued for some years,[67] with many items failing to achieve the prices Hearst had originally spent.[68][69]
During World War II the castle was requisitioned by the War Office for use by British and American troops for officer training.[5][70] In October 1939 the 2nd 5th Battalion Glamorgan Welch Regiment of the British army arrived at the castle; two years later, conscripts of the Auxiliary Territorial Service were also stationed at the site.[71] In 1944, it was used by the American 2nd Infantry Division as a command post.[72] and soldiers injured in the D-day Normandy landings were treated and housed there.[73] Hearst did not return after the war but continued to lend the castle to friends; Bob Hope, the comedian, stayed in May 1951 during his visit for a golf tournament at Porthcawl.[74]
United World Colleges: 1960–present
Hearst died in August 1951. The castle remained on the market for the following decade until bought in 1960 by Antonin Besse II, son of the late Sir Antonin Besse, and donated to the founding council of Atlantic College, the first of what would become the United World Colleges. The idea for an international school arose from a meeting between the educationalist Kurt Hahn, who founded Schule Schloss Salem in Germany and Gordonstoun in Scotland, and Air Marshal Sir Lawrence Darvall, the commandant of the NATO Defense College.[75] They conceived of a college for 16–19-year-old students drawn from a wide range of nationalities, with the aim of fostering international understanding.[76] With Rear-Admiral Desmond Hoare, who would become the first headmaster, they persuaded Besse that the castle would make a suitable location for the first United World College, which opened in 1962 with fifty-six students.[75]
The first
The college has hosted several royal visitors at the castle, including Charles III, when Prince of Wales,[83][84] and Princess Diana,[85][86][87] Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip,[88][89] Lord Mountbatten, who was closely involved with the UWC movement, Emperor Akihito and Empress Michiko of Japan[90][91] and Queen Beatrix and Prince Claus of the Netherlands.[92][93] The fiftieth anniversary of the college in 2012 was celebrated with a visit from Queen Noor of Jordan, the then President of the United World Colleges.[94] Politicians such as the former prime minister of Canada Lester B. Pearson and the former Prime Minister of the United Kingdom Alec Douglas-Home also visited St Donat's, as have several ambassadors.[95][96]
The college is home to approximately 350 students from more than 90 countries, who live in houses constructed on the castle grounds for the two years of their studies.[97] With a history of occupation from its construction in the late 13th century, St Donat's has been described as the oldest continuously inhabited castle in Wales.[98][99][j]
Architecture and description
Detailed drawings and plans prepared by the engineer and antiquary George Thomas Clark in 1871, and subsequently by George Lambert in 1901, assisted the Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Wales (RCAHMW) in their survey of the castle published in 2000.[103] In this survey, RCAHMW described the development of the castle in six phases: Period 1, the late-12th century; Period 2, the early-14th century; Period 3, the late-15th century; Period 4, the early-16th century; Period 5, the late-16th or early-17th centuries and finally the restorations of Carne, Williams and Hearst.[104] The survey identified "substantial" remnants of the original Norman enceinte, including the keep, which had been enveloped by later developments and had previously been unrecognised and unrecorded.[105]
The entrance lies to the north-west. The grouping is surrounded by outer and inner curtain walls. The outer curtain wall is pierced by a gatehouse which leads through to an outer court. This is blocked, to the left, by Hearst's Bradenstoke Hall. A further gate, adjacent to the Mansell Tower, leads onto the inner court with the great hall to the south-west, the Bradenstoke Hall behind that, the banqueting hall to the west and the North Range to the right of the inner gatehouse.[106]
Exterior
The castle site offers natural defences, in the form of steep slopes to two sides and the coast to a third. The unprotected side to the east is encircled by a deep dry moat.
Through this gateway, a c. 40 metres (130 ft) wide inner court is positioned within a polygonal inner curtain wall. The curtain walls date from c. 1300, and were built by the founder of the
The exterior walls of the inner ward are decorated with a set of
Beside the hall, between the inner and outer curtain walls, is the Bradenstoke Hall, consisting of the inner curtain wall on the north side and the realigned outer curtain wall on the south, with a modern wall on the east end built at that point to fit in an early-14th-century roof, brought from Bradenstoke Priory in Wiltshire.[121] The western range has largely been replaced by a larger, three-storey building which necessitated, when erected, the demolition of the western part of the outer curtain wall.[122] All of this renewal was undertaken by Hearst to achieve larger spaces for entertaining.[123] The historian Adrian Pettifer records St Donat's as the last inhabited castle in Wales to undergo major alteration, describing that Hearst "aggrandised it with plunder".[124]
Interior
The historian Anthony Emery, in the second of his three-volume history, Greater Medieval Houses of England and Wales, 1300–1500, describes the interiors created by Hearst and Allom at St Donat's as "spectacular...surpassing all other work there in size and richness".
Above the banqueting hall, Hearst created an armoury filled with a notable collection of arms and armour, mainly sourced by the dealer, Raymond Bartel, whom Hearst enticed from the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art.[132] The collection, sold after Hearst's death, was at the time "one of the finest in the world", mainly bought at German auctions in the 1920s and 1930s and including a set of plate armour from Milan considered the earliest near-complete set in existence.[59][l] In addition to the armour, Hearst assembled a considerable collection of art and antiquities at the castle; "must buy many things for St Donat's";[135] including a large number of 17th and 18th century English portraits, Classical Greek vases,[136] and tapestries.[137]
The castle was designated a Grade I listed building, the highest possible grade reserved for buildings of exceptional interest, in 1952. Cadw's listing report describes St Donat's as "an exceptionally fine medieval castle (with) many important interiors".[1]
St Donat's Arts Centre and other college buildings
St Donat's Arts Centre is housed in a
Gardens and grounds
The original gardens of the Stradlings were famous, begun in the
Later development in the early 20th century by Morgan Williams
Structural elements of the gardens were given Grade I listed status in 1963, Cadw's listing report noting their "exceptional interest as a surviving 16th-century terraced garden".[155] Many of the individual buildings have their own Grade II listings including the watchtower to the west of the castle,[156] the sea walls and towers to the south of the castle, at the end of the terraces,[153] the Cavalry Barracks,[152] the lawn sundial,[157] and the walls to the north and west of the castle entrance.[158][159] The gardens themselves were given Grade I listing on the Cadw/ICOMOS Register of Parks and Gardens of Special Historic Interest in Wales in 2022.[160] They remain a rare survival of a complete, terraced Tudor garden,[161] once among the finest Renaissance gardens in Wales.[162]
Footnotes
- ^ In his study of the castle and the Stradling family, George Thomas Clark, the historian of Glamorgan, records the Hawey heiress as Julian.[6]
- ^ Taliesin Williams, son of the renowned forger Iolo Morganwg was a prolific Welsh poet. His poem, The Doom of Colyn Dolphyn tells of the seizure of Harry Stradling by Dolphyn, Dolphyn's subsequent capture and his final end on the gallows. A flavour of the poem can be gained from the final quatrain:
- "Here ceas'd the tale – From central tower
- The clock proclaim'd protracted hour:–
- From Stradling's hall the guests depart:–
- But leave it with reluctant heart."[10]
- ^ The library was sold at the end of the 18th century and the current locations of many of its contents are unknown.[17]
- ^ Some sources suggest that Tyrwhitt inherited indirectly, through Baron Mansell of Margam.[5]
- ^ The Welsh National Archive gives the date of purchase as 1899.[31]
- ^ Hearst considered making an offer on Leeds Castle in Kent but was deterred by reports of its poor condition.[38]
- ^ Hearst's biographer David Nasaw refers to elements of the priory being discovered in crates in a Hearst Corporation warehouse in Los Angeles in 1960. These were subsequently sold to a hotelier in San Luis Obispo[52] whose son is, as at 2018, planning to reconstruct them.[53]
- ^ Hearst's Fourth of July celebrations in 1934 included a fireworks display of such scale and extravagance that the coastguard complained it was confusing shipping in the Bristol Channel.[59]
- ^ The quote has also been recorded as Shaw's comment on Hearst Castle, Shaw having visited California in 1933.[64]
- ^ John Newman suggests Cardiff Castle and Fonmon Castle as alternative claimants, but limits his scope to Glamorgan.[100] The claim has also been made for Penhow Castle in Monmouthshire.[101][102]
- ^ Emery’s compliment was double-edged. His footnote on Hearst’s work at St. Donat’s describes the castle as “a bravura ensemble that displays panache and antiquarian immorality in equal measure”.[126]
- ^ Much of the collection is now in the possession of the British Museum and the Royal Armouries[133] as well as the Carl Otto Kretzschmar von Kienbusch Collection of the Philadelphia Museum of Art.[134]
- ^ Thomas Leyson's poem, now known only in a Welsh translation, runs, "Neptune and Thetis the sea-goddess and other creatures of the underworld give up the deep to dwell in the garden" (lines 83–85).[46]
- ^ In August 1929, Hearst wrote to Morgan: "Please send Sir Charles Allom full details of Wyntoon pool sketch, including tile samples, to have a similar pool at St Donat's".[150]
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{{cite book}}
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Further reading
- Whittle, Elisabeth (1999). "The Tudor Gardens of St Donat's Castle, Glamorgan, South Wales". Garden History. 27 (1): 109–126. JSTOR 1587176.