Birkenhead
Birkenhead | ||
---|---|---|
Town | ||
Metropolitan county | ||
Region | ||
Country | England | |
Sovereign state | United Kingdom | |
Post town | BIRKENHEAD | |
Postcode district | CH41, CH42 | |
Dialling code | 0151 | |
ISO 3166 code | GB-WRL | |
Police | Merseyside | |
Fire | Merseyside | |
Ambulance | North West | |
UK Parliament | ||
Birkenhead (/ˌbɜːrkənˈhɛd/) is a town in the Metropolitan Borough of Wirral, Merseyside, England; historically, it was part of Cheshire until 1974. The town is on the Wirral Peninsula, along the west bank of the River Mersey, opposite Liverpool. At the 2011 census, it had a population of 88,818.[1]
Birkenhead Priory and the Mersey Ferry were established in the 12th century. In the 19th century, Birkenhead expanded greatly as a consequence of the Industrial Revolution. Birkenhead Park and Hamilton Square were laid out as well as the first street tramway in Britain. The Mersey Railway connected Birkenhead and Liverpool with the world's first tunnel beneath a tidal estuary; the shipbuilding firm Cammell Laird and a seaport were established.
In the second half of the 20th century, the town suffered a significant period of decline, with containerisation causing a reduction in port activity. The Wirral Waters development is planned to regenerate much of the dockland.
Toponymy
The name Birkenhead probably means "headland overgrown with birch", from the Old English bircen meaning birch tree,[3] of which many once grew on the headland which jutted into the river at Woodside. The name is not derived from the Birket, a stream which enters the Mersey between Birkenhead and Seacombe. The Birket is a later name which was introduced by Ordnance Survey.[4]
History
Medieval period
The earliest records state that the
19th century
Distanced from the Industrial Revolution in Liverpool by the physical barrier of the River Mersey, Birkenhead retained its agricultural status until the advent of steam ferry services. In 1817 a steam ferry service started from Liverpool to Tranmere and in 1822 the paddle steamer, Royal Mail, began operation between Liverpool and Woodside.[9]
Shipbuilding started in 1829.
In 1833 an act was passed to introduce street paving, lighting and other improvements in the town. These included establishing a market and regulating the police force.[11]
The Mersey Railway tunnel opened in 1886, providing direct railway access to Liverpool.
20th century
The Grange Road West drill hall was completed in 1900.[12]
In September 1932 thousands of unemployed people protested in a series of demonstrations organised by the local branch of the
In addition to the ferries and the railway, the Queensway road tunnel opened in 1934 and gave rapid access to Liverpool. This opened up the Wirral Peninsula for development, and prompted further growth of Birkenhead as an industrial centre. Bolstered by migration from rural Cheshire, southern Ireland and Wales, the town's population had grown from 110 in 1801 to 110,912 one hundred years later and stood at 142,501 by 1951.[14]
Birkenhead was struck by an F0/T1 tornado on 23 November 1981, as part of the record-breaking nationwide tornado outbreak on that day.[15]
1989 saw the completion of a large shopping development within Birkenhead town centre, known as the Pyramids.[16]
Conway Park station was opened in 1998 as part of a development that saw Wirral Metropolitan College open a new campus nearby.[17]
21st century
The Wirral Waters development was announced in 2006, with work starting in 2011 and expecting to last for around 30 years.
Wirral Council announced in 2020 the formulation of a 20 year development plan known as the 'Birkenhead 2040 Framework'.[18] The plan aims to regenerate parts of Birkenhead, with the creation of a new park (Dock Branch Park), new housing and an improved greener environment.
Governance
Birkenhead lies within the
Administrative history
Birkenhead was historically a
In 1877 Birkenhead was incorporated as a municipal borough, with its territory covering the combined area of the old commissioners' district and the two local government districts of Oxton and Tranmere, which were abolished. The new borough also took in the Rock Ferry area from Bebington.[23][14] When elected county councils were established in 1889, Birkenhead was considered large enough to provide its own county-level services, and so it was made a county borough, making it independent from the new Cheshire County Council, whilst still being deemed part of Cheshire for ceremonial purposes.[24]
The council built itself Birkenhead Town Hall on Hamilton Square to serve as its headquarters; the building was opened in 1887.[25][26] The borough was enlarged in 1928 to absorb Landican, Prenton and Thingwall, and again in 1933 to take in Bidston, Noctorum, Upton and Woodchurch.[27]
The borough of Birkenhead was abolished in 1974 under the Local Government Act 1972, with the area becoming part of the Metropolitan Borough of Wirral and being transferred to the metropolitan county of Merseyside. In 1986 Merseyside County Council was abolished, with Wirral Council then taking on the county council's former functions in the area. Since 2014 Wirral and the other Merseyside boroughs and neighbouring Halton have been covered by the Liverpool City Region Combined Authority, which has been led by a directly elected mayor since 2017.
Constituency
The current (2019- ) Labour Member of Parliament for the constituency of Birkenhead is Mick Whitley.
Geography
The
Economy
Shipbuilding
Shipbuilding and ship repair has featured prominently in the local economy since the 19th century. Cammell Laird entered receivership in 2001. The shipyard was sold and became 'Northwestern Shiprepairers & Shipbuilders' (NS&S), which grew into a successful business specialising in ship repair and conversion, including maintenance contracts for the Royal Fleet Auxiliary. In September 2007 NS&S acquired the rights to use the Cammell Laird name. The company was renamed 'Cammell Laird Shiprepairers & Shipbuilders' on 17 November 2008,[30] seeing the famous name return to Birkenhead after a seven-year hiatus. In 2010, Cammell Laird secured a £50 million contract to construct the flight deck for HMS Queen Elizabeth,[31] the first of two Queen Elizabeth-class aircraft carriers. In 2015, Cammell Laird was selected as the preferred bidder to construct RRS Sir David Attenborough, a Royal Research Ship.[32][33]
Commerce
Birkenhead's first market was established in 1835 in a purpose-built building in Hamilton Street near its junction with Market Street. This building also contained the town hall, commissioners' offices and a lock-up. It is often said that the first market was opened on the site of the later town hall in Hamilton Square. This is untrue. In fact, part of the eastern side of Hamilton Square was deliberately left empty until 1887, when the main town hall was built on that designated site. The Hamilton Square town hall site was never used as a market, despite that myth being propagated in many accounts of Birkenhead's history, including official sources. The large market hall which was a famous feature of Birkenhead was built behind the original market, along Albion Street, opening in July 1845. This market hall was built by
During the 1970s, the commercial centre of the town was redeveloped around the principal shopping area of Grange Road. Following two fires at the expanded Birkenhead Market in 1969 and 1974, it was moved to new premises adjoining the Grange Shopping Precinct development in 1977.
Economic statistics
In February 2010, the town had an overall unemployment rate of 8.2% (males 12.4%, female 4.1%) as against a national average of 4.4%.[39]
Demography
In 2011, Birkenhead had a population of 88,818. The wider Urban Subdivision[clarification needed] had a population of over 142,000. However, this latter figure includes areas such as Greasby and Frankby, which are separate from Birkenhead.
These are the 2011 ethnic groups for the town:[40]
- 93.5% White British
- 2.3% Other White
- 1.2% Mixed Race
- 2.6% Asian
- 0.2% Black
- 0.2% Other
Landmarks
Birkenhead Park is acknowledged to be the first publicly funded park in Britain.[41] The park was the forerunner of the Parks Movement and its influence was far reaching both in Britain and abroad – most notably on Frederick Law Olmsted's design for Central Park in New York City.[42] Designed by Joseph Paxton (later Sir Joseph Paxton) in 1843 and officially opened in 1847, with great festivity.[43] The park's Grand Entrance, modelled on the Temple of Illysus in Athens,[citation needed] and its 'Roman Boathouse' are notable features. There are sandstone lodges at the three entrances, each with a different style of architecture, Gothic, Norman and Italianate. There are also two lakes and an ornate 'Swiss Bridge'.
Other notable landmarks include Bidston Windmill on a ridge behind the town, Flaybrick Watertower and Birkenhead Priory & St. Mary's Tower.
Transport
Trams
Birkenhead had the first street tramway in Britain. Opened on 29 August 1860, the first line ran from Woodside (adjoining the terminal of the Mersey Ferry) to Birkenhead Park. This early system was horse-drawn and was the brainchild of flamboyant American, George Francis Train.[47][48] A preserved tram was on display in the Woodside ferry terminal booking hall.
The system was later electrified and operated from 1901 as Birkenhead Corporation Tramways; it closed in 1937.[49] Two replica trams, imported from Hong Kong, have been brought into service as part of a heritage tramway between Woodside and Wirral Transport Museum; Birkenhead Corporation Tramways car No.20 is preserved on this line.
As part of the Wirral Waters development, a street car service has been proposed, to be called Wirral Street Car.[50]
Buses
Horse-drawn buses began operating in Birkenhead in 1848, to be replaced with motor vehicles after the
Present-day services are run by operators including Arriva and Stagecoach, which are coordinated by Merseytravel.
National Express provides long-distance coach services to other UK cities, with direct routes including London, Glasgow, Bangor and Newcastle.[52]
Birkenhead Bus Station
The bus station was opened in 1996. It is adjacent to The Grange shopping centre and Birkenhead Market.
It has a total of eleven stands and incorporates a travel centre. The main bus operators at the station include Arriva North West and Stagecoach Merseyside & South Lancashire.
Services using the bus station operate around the town of Birkenhead, throughout the Wirral and to the nearby city of Liverpool via the Queensway Tunnel. The station also has frequent services to as far away as Chester.
Railways
Railways reached Birkenhead in 1840, when the
The major underground station in Birkenhead is
The Wirral Line from Birkenhead travels south to
From 1878 until its closure in 1967, Birkenhead Woodside station was the town's mainline railway terminus. Originally sited close to Woodside Ferry Terminal, the site had been redeveloped as part of Cammell Laird ship builders. Latterly, the adjacent dry dock at Cammell Laird was filled in and the area redeveloped to provide flats, a bus depot and offices for HM Land Registry and the Child Support Agency.
The town has one operational railway depot,
Roads
Junctions 1 and 3 of the M53 motorway facilitate access to the national motorway network. The A41 trunk road connects Woodside with Marble Arch in London. Two road tunnels, the Queensway road tunnel from Birkenhead and the Kingsway road tunnel from Wallasey, run underneath the River Mersey and connect the town to Liverpool.
Maritime
Birkenhead's dock system is part of the Port of Liverpool, operated by the Mersey Docks and Harbour Company under the ownership of The Peel Group. The Twelve Quays ferry terminal allows a direct freight and passenger vehicle service to Dublin and Belfast. Daily Belfast services are run by Stena Line, using their RoPax ferries MS Stena Edda and MS Stena Embla from 2020 to 2021,[57] which replaced MS Stena Lagan and MS Stena Mersey.[58] The Mersey Ferry at Woodside operates a passenger service to Liverpool and chartered cruising.
During winter months, the Isle of Man Steam Packet Company operates a service from Birkenhead to Douglas using MS Ben-my-Chree. Due to weather conditions, this service temporarily replaces the route that normally operates from the Liverpool landing stage using fast craft.
Aviation
The nearest airport is Liverpool John Lennon Airport (formerly known as Speke Airport), about 8 miles (13 km) from Birkenhead. Manchester Airport is approximately 40 mi (64 km) away. Other nearby aviation facilities include Hawarden Airport and RAF Woodvale. Former airfields in the area include RAF Hooton Park and Bidston Aerodrome.[59]
Education
Schools
Birkenhead has a number of maintained schools, including
Birkenhead also has two independently run schools. The oldest is
Birkenhead Institute Grammar School[63] existed from 1889 in Whetstone Lane, before being moved to Claughton in the 1970s. The school closed in 1994.[64] The school's alumni include Wilfred Owen.
Colleges
Previously situated at Borough Road, Birkenhead's college has campuses at Europa Boulevard and Twelve Quays. The college was originally Birkenhead Technical College, and has been known as Wirral Metropolitan College since the 1980s.[citation needed] The college had a theatre on Borough Road named after one of its most famous former students, Glenda Jackson, the Oscar-winning actress and Member of Parliament, herself a Birkonian, born in 1936. The Borough Road campus and the Glenda Jackson Theatre were demolished in late 2005, to make way for flats, although Wirral Metropolitan College flourishes on other sites across Wirral. The theatre secretly housed an emergency command centre for the region in its basement, accessible via the college.[65] Politicians and officials would have retreated to this secure bunker in the event of nuclear war to co-ordinate the recovery effort. By the 1990s, after the end of the Cold War, the bunker had been decommissioned and the surrounding complex of rooms was used by the college as a rehearsal space and recording studio.[65]
Other colleges include the Birkenhead Sixth Form College, in the Claughton area of the town, formerly the site of Corpus Christi Catholic High School.
Religion
Religion in Birkenhead dates back to 1150 when Hamon de Masci founded
The current
The other religious buildings include the
Healthcare
Birkenhead has one of the highest mortality rates among men over 65 in the UK.
Arts, sports and leisure
Arts
The Laird School of Art was the first public school of art outside London and was given to the town by John Laird. It opened on 27 September 1871. The Williamson Art Gallery was opened in 1928 and houses a fine collection of paintings, porcelain and pottery.
In 1856, Birkenhead Library was opened as the country's first public library in an unincorporated borough.[70]
The library was situated in Hamilton Street until 1909, when it moved to a new building in Market Street South,
Despite being in England, Birkenhead (known as Penbedw, in Welsh) hosted Wales'
The Argyle Theatre was a major theatre and music hall which opened on 28 December 1868[38] and became notable for the calibre of artistes who appeared there. Later in its life, it was also used as a cinema. The theatre was destroyed by bombing in 1940.[77]
The Theatre Royal, opened on 31 October 1864, was in Argyle Street and had a capacity of 1,850.[38] This theatre was closed in 1919 and demolished in the 1930s.[38] Another theatre, the Hippodrome, which was converted into a cinema in the 1930s, stood on the site of what became the Co-operative department store in Grange Road.[78]
The Little Theatre was established in 1958 from a converted former
Media
Birkenhead is served by the Liverpool Echo local daily newspaper. The local weekly newspaper is the Wirral Globe and the online-only news website is Birkenhead News.
The local radio station
Birkenhead is situated within the television regions of
Leisure
As well as Birkenhead Park, other recreational open spaces in Birkenhead include Mersey Park and Victoria Park. Arrowe Park is a large area of parkland at the western edge of the town. In 1929, the 3rd World Scout Jamboree was held there.
The first two Boy Scout groups in the world are thought to have been founded as the 1st and 2nd Birkenhead groups at YMCA on the same night in 1908.[80] The 2nd Birkenhead Scout Group is still operating and therefore is the longest running scout group in the world.[citation needed]
Sport
The first known
The Birkenhead Park Football Club was founded in 1871, the same year as the Rugby Football Union. The club originally played in the Lower Park but moved to their current home in the Upper Park in 1885.[81] Birkenhead Park also has its own cricket club.[82]
Also in the town are the Birkenhead North End and Victoria Cycling Clubs. Olympic riders from the clubs include Chris Boardman, Mark Bell, Steve Cummings and Rachel Heal.[83][84]
Birkenhead has been host to various rowing clubs since 1840.[85] At present, Liverpool Victoria Rowing Club operates from a facility at the western end of West Float.[86]
Cultural references
Birkenhead is indirectly referenced by "the Birken'ead drill" in Rudyard Kipling's poem "Soldier an' Sailor Too": To take your chance in the thick of a rush, with firing all about, / Is nothing so bad when you've cover to 'and, an' leave an' likin' to shout; / But to stand an' be still to the Birken'ead drill is a damn tough bullet to chew, / An' they done it, the Jollies – 'Er Majesty's Jollies – soldier an' sailor too!, as it refers to heroism by Royal Marines during the sinking of HMS Birkenhead, herself named after the town in which it was built. Other authors have done this as well.
Birkenhead is mentioned in the song "What She Said" on the album Meat Is Murder by the Smiths: "What she read/All heady books/She'd sit and prophesise/(It took a tattooed boy from Birkenhead/To really really open her eyes)." The town is also referred to in the song "Everything Is Sorrow" on the Boo Radleys' C'mon Kids album: I worked in Birkenhead for you/It brings me tears even now.
A fairly detailed description of the town is given in Paul O'Grady's memoirs, At My Mother's Knee... and Other Low Joints: The Autobiography.
The 1998 book, Awaydays, and the 2009 film of the same name are set in Birkenhead.
In August 2022 the
Notable people
Actors and performers
In the arts, Birkenhead has produced several actors and performers including
Artists
Some notable artists were born in the town, such as
Authors and journalists
Birkenhead has produced poets and authors such as
Musicians
There are several musicians linked to the area.
Politicians and public figures
F. E. Smith, 1st Earl of Birkenhead, a leading Conservative politician of the early 20th century, was born in the town,[106] as were Liberal Democrat politician Malcolm Bruce,[107] and Tony Hall, Baron Hall of Birkenhead, the Director-General of the BBC.[108] Also born in the town was Theodora Llewelyn Davies, a barrister and penal reform campaigner, who in 1920 was the first woman admitted to the Inner Temple.
Scientists and technologists
Aerodynamicists Gwen Alston and Melvill Jones were born in Birkenhead.
Explorers and soldiers
Sportspeople
Birkenhead has also produced notable sportsmen such as
Others
Gary Finlay, the murderer of Graham McKenna, was born in Birkenhead,[113] as was the prominent occultist Alex Sanders.[114]
Twin towns
Birkenhead is
- Gennevilliers, France
- Latina, Lazio, Italy
- Lorient, France
Twin towns – Sister cities
Birkenhead also has a
Future
The major redevelopment project under consideration is
See also
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- Bidston, Carol E. (1978). Birkenhead in Times Past. Chorley: Countryside Publications Ltd. OCLC 16480899.
- Collard, Ian (2012). Birkenhead Through Time. Amberley. OCLC 934954016.
- Maund, T.B. (2009). The Wirral Railway and its Predecessors. Lightmoor Press. ISBN 978-1-899889-38-9.
- OCLC 521341.
Further reading
- Aspinall, Henry Kelsall (1903). Birkenhead and its Surroundings. Liverpool: The Liverpool Booksellers' Co. Ltd. OCLC 33990938.
- Boumphrey, Ian; Boumphrey, Marilyn (1981). Yesterday's Wirral: Birkenhead, Prenton and Oxton. Ian & Marilyn Boumphrey. OCLC 16599808.
- Boumphrey, Ian (1995). Birkenhead: A Pictorial History. Phillmore. OCLC 36548684.
- Boumphrey, Ian (2007a). Yesterday's Birkenhead. The author. ISBN 9781899241262.
- Boumphrey, Ian (2007b). Birkenhead at War 1939-45. Ian & Marilyn Boumphrey. OCLC 650238915.
- Broadbent, R.J. (1908). Annals of the Liverpool Stage. Liverpool: Edward Howell. pp. 377–386.
- Brocklebank, Ralph T. (2003). Birkenhead: An Illustrated History. Breedon. OCLC 56469838.
- Collard, Ian (2010). Birkenhead from old photographs. Amberley. OCLC 503647633.
- Davey, Elizabeth (2013). Birkenhead: A History. The History Press. OCLC 316434050.
- Gamlin, Hilda (1892). Memories of the chronicles of Birkenhead. E. Howell. OCLC 866209732.
- Hayes, Cliff (2007). A Century of Birkenhead and Wirral. Sutton. OCLC 520460751.
- Jones, Alan G. (2011). Birkenhead Shipbuilding. Fast Print. OCLC 773368902.
- Kaighin, J.R. (1925). Bygone Birkenhead. Wilmer. OCLC 77304339.
- Lea, Myrra (1974). Birkenhead, 1877-1974. County Borough of Birkenhead. OCLC 1365533.
- McCarron, Ken (1991). Meat at Woodside: Birkenhead Livestock Trade, 1878-1981. Merseyside Port Folios. OCLC 26313657.
- McIntyre, W.R.S. (1948). Birkenhead yesterday and today. Philip. OCLC 504769644.
- Mortimer, William Williams (1847). The History of the Hundred of Wirral. London: Whittaker & Co. OCLC 4976662. pp305–405.
- Mott, Charles Grey (1900). Reminiscences of Birkenhead. H. Young and Sons. OCLC 12987941.
- Sadler, Michael E. (1904). Report on Secondary Education in Birkenhead. London: George Philip & Son Ltd.
- Sulley, Philip (1907). History of ancient and modern Birkenhead. W.M. Murphy. OCLC 29557494.
External links
- Media related to Birkenhead at Wikimedia Commons
- Birkenhead travel guide from Wikivoyage
- Birkenhead & Surrounds Archived 7 November 2017 at the Wayback Machine