Anti-fashion
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Anti-fashion is an umbrella term for various styles of dress that are explicitly contrary to the
Anti-fashion is considered radical creativity in
Overview
In discussing fashion and the nature of clothes, researchers Robert and Jeanette Lauer discuss the eight meanings of clothing as non-verbal communication, representing people's personalities, clothing as a reflection of moral character, immoral clothing, clothing and conformity, and apparel as indicators of status and desirability. They believe that clothes can be as far-reaching to represent the state of a nation. Fashions, fads, and anti-fashion trends can be connected to one or more of these eight principles. There were practical health reasons that a minority of women promoted radical changes in feminine dress in the early part of the 18th century.[2]
A trend for
An example, this time from the early 20th century, was promoted by the legendary designer Gabrielle Chanel – a "poor girl" woman's style where rich ladies could look like regular women while still dressing in clothes that showed their quality under close inspection.[3] The dress sense of Charles III of the United Kingdom has been described as anti-fashion, in that it reflects indifference to current fashion in favor of traditional style.[4] Anti-fashion has also been used to describe simple fashion adopted by hardcore punks in the 1980s. At its strictest, it consists of a plain white T-shirt, black trousers or plain jeans and black boots, with the hair cut short. In the exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons Art of the In-Between, fashion/anti-fashion was one of the thematic fashion pairings which were examined.
History
19th century
The burden of wearing extremely heavy dresses in all seasons that could not be washed was a
Alternative forms of daywear were promoted by women's clubs of the time, especially The Dress Reform Association which began in
1950s–1980s
A period of anti-fashion took place in the 1950s with the advent of
Punk fashion arrived later in Great Britain in the 1970s with fashion designer Vivienne Westwood. It was quickly adopted by disillusioned, discontented teenagers. A shop named SEX run by Malcolm McLaren sold clothes with a fetish focus; leather bondage pants, offensive jewelry and T-shirts, and jeans that were ripped and defaced; other materials used to invoke fetishism were rubber and PVC plastic. Punk clothing was often studded and slashed, and adorned with chains and safety pins. This anti-fashion was adopted in response to the fashion-consciousness exhibited by the fans of bands such as the Sex Pistols.[6]
Both Westwood and McLaren led the Punk movement which was short-lived, but newsworthy in the fashion press. It was easy to recognize those who followed the punk community with their spiky brightly-colored Mohawk haircuts, exotic makeup, tattoos, and body piercings.[7] According to Worsley, "Punk style showed how fashion could challenge stereotypes of gender and beauty".[8] By the 1980s, punk influences could be seen around Europe and America, although these blatant and provocative styles fell out of favor by the end of the decade, to be replaced by the anti-styles of the grunge movement.
1990s
In the 1990s, a
Soon, designers such as Donna Karan, Anna Sui, Marc Jacobs, Perry Ellis, Ralph Lauren and others began to take inspiration from fashions on the streets and incorporate those trends into their own designer lines. The fad expired as quickly as it began and the designers looked in other directions for inspiration.[9]
Designers
During this period of time, anti-fashion designers started appearing in Europe and Asia, mainly Japan.
Vivienne Westwood
With the emergence of counter-mainstream consciousness, a punk style that catered to people's thoughts emerged in this context. Punk has a great impact on fashion. The well-known designer Vivienne Westwood, who is known as the mother of punk, started her fashion career with punk. The clothes she designed not only have punk's iconic fetish fashion, restraint elements, pins, chains, and other punk elements but also incorporate traditional designs such as Scottish plaid and court ballet.
The multi-wavy skirts, ruffled piping, pirate hats, and boots with romantic pirate styles published by Westwood in her early days immediately pushed her to the stage of international popularity and gained attention. By the mid-1980s, Westwood began to explore classical and British traditions. By the 1990s Westwood designed irregular, exaggerated and complicated structures by contrasting and matching different materials and colors, which have become Westwood's unique style.
Besides Westwood in Europe, three designers from Japan entered the European fashion scene during the 1980s.
Issey Miyake
Issey Miyake is a strong representative of Asian anti-era designers. The clothes he designs have a distinctive style and are extremely individual, giving the clothing a new aesthetic connotation with unbridled expression. Miyake released his first fashion show in 1971 with great success, and he has since entered the design career of a fashion master.
Rei Kawakubo
Rei Kawakubo is good at using low-chroma fabrics to design clothes. Many of them are designed in the same piece with the same color of black, which can be said it is Kawakubo's representative color. In 1981, Rei Kawakubo held her first press conference at the Paris Fashion Show, where she began to attract the attention of the global fashion industry. Then in the following year, her clothing had a simple nickname: the beggar's outfit; leading to a design trend of loose, deliberate three-dimensional, broken, asymmetric, and not revealing the shape of the body.
Yohji Yamamoto
For Yohji Yamamoto, the most basic concept of anti-fashion is not to follow the trend. Yohji Yamamoto's design style has always been unconventional and gender-neutral, such as designing women's clothing according to the concept of men's clothing. He likes to cover women's body shapes with exaggerated proportions, bringing out the androgynous, asexual aesthetic concept. This new dres' concept, which runs counter to the European mainstream, has not only established itself in the fashion industry but has also influenced European designers.
Demeulemeester, Maison Martin Margiela and Raf Simons
In addition, designers such as Ann Demeulemeester, Maison Martin Margiela and Raf Simons are all anti-fashion pioneers. During the 1990s, the anti-fashion movement was at its peak; more designers were willing to put themselves out there to question the idealistic beauty and traditional fashion style. One of the original Antwerp six Ann Demeulemeester debuted her first catwalk show in Paris in 1991, and she was famous for her asymmetry and unbalanced style. Maison Martin Margiela debuted his Salvation Armycollection in 1992; it was a sarcastic reaction towards the overflowing meaningless clothes in the fashion industry.
Raf Simons debuted his first menswear collection in 1997 to showcase a sense of rave and the opposite example of traditional men's fashion. The 1990s is a continuation of the 1980s anti-fashion movement but expanded into different aspects and perspectives.
See also
References
- ^ ISBN 978-1-85973-808-5.
- ISBN 0-13-306712-2.
- ISBN 978-0-520-06212-2.
- ^ Catin, D. Cecile (8 April 2020). "What is "Anti-Fashion"?". Gildshire Magazines. Retrieved 14 January 2023.
- ISBN 0-13-306712-2.
- ISBN 978-0-415-26018-3
- ISBN 978-0-7119-8749-4.
- ISBN 978-1-85669-733-0.
- ISBN 978-1-85669-733-0.