Fashion in India

Source: Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.

India is a country with an

Indian economy
in 1990. The following decades firmly established fashion as an industry across India.

History

Modern history

Post-independence focus on revival of traditional textile and design led to the rise of "ethnic chic".

The history of

Indian tradition
.

As part of larger revival movement in the Indian textile industry,

patola (double-ikat), bandhani (tie-dye) and shisha (mirror embroidery).[3]

An early trendsetter in fashion was

Veer Zaara suits and blouses from Parineeta. This comes besides various fashion interpretations of the sari in films like Chandni (1989) with Sridevi, Main Hoon Na (2004) with Sushmita Sen and Dostana (2008) with Priyanka Chopra, which became fashion trends.[5][6]

However, in recent decades, with increasing exposure to the West, its influence is no longer as strong as in previous decades.

non-resident Indians, Bollywood continues to exert far greater influence on the fashion sensibilities amongst Indians around the world.[7][8]

1980s-1990s and fashion boom

By the early 1980s, the first generation of Indian fashion designers started cropping up, including

churidaar-kurta in 1988, which soon became the Indian version of the ball gown.[4]

In 1986, the

Ministry of Textiles, Government of India opened the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) in Delhi with the help of the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York. It played an important role in bringing in locally trained fashion designers.[9] By 2010, it had developed 15 branches across India, and smaller private fashion institutions had also developed.[10] Also in 1987, Tarun Tahiliani and his wife Shailja 'Sal' Tahiliani, founded Ensemble, India's first multi-designer boutique in Mumbai.[11][12]

In 1990,

prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) lines.[13]

"God-printed T-shirts" were introduced by Manish Arora in 1997, along with Indian kitsch and street art in saturated colors on fashionwear.[4] Another important reinvention was made in 1998 by Monisha Jaisingh, who shortened the traditional kurta to develop the Kurti, which became popular worldwide as the "Indian embroidered tunic".[4] Also in the same year, the Fashion Design Council of India was established, which later started the India Fashion Week in Delhi, to promote Indian designers and manufacturers.[10] In 2000, another Bollywood costume designer, Manish Malhotra, became an important influence on Indian fashion. Having designed the trendy looks for actresses Urmila Matondkar in Rangeela (1995) and Karisma Kapoor in Raja Hindustani (1996), he introduced the "cocktail sari" in 2000. Using pastel colors, and fabrics like chiffon, satin or net, it revived the traditional sari in a modern avatar. He was in turn inspired by the popular Bollywood saris of the 1960s and the chiffon saris worn by the actress in Yash Chopra films, like Chandni (1989).[4] This also started another era of Bollywood fashion influence and its collaboration with leading designers, besides leading actors and actresses occasionally walking the ramp for some designers.[6]

By 2009, the Indian fashion industry, despite the ongoing recession, was worth ₹2.9 billion (US$36 million).[14] Also in the same year, Manish Arora, known for his quirky-kitsch, became the first Indian designer to participate in Paris Fashion Week.[14]

2010 onwards – change in Indian Menswear fashion

Lakme Fashion Week's Gen Next programme has been helpful in giving a launch platforms for some of the newest and avant garde designers in this country. Fashion designers such as Antar Agni, Mr. Ajay Kumar, Bloni are some of the newest designers on the block. Mr. Ajay Kumar is one such designer who has revolutionised the way Indian men perceive fashion - introducing the signature print-on-print look for men.[15] He has brought colourful prints for men and with the likes of celebrities such as Ranveer Singh, Shahid Kapoor popularising such looks, men in India have become more experimental and flamboyant in their outlook. Antar Agni has introduced draped menswear which is quite popular amongst the new age men who want to experiment with silhouettes.[16]

Cities

Delhi, Kolkata, Mumbai and Chennai are important centers of fashion designing and manufacture in India, followed by Bangalore, Hyderabad, Pune and other large cities. Mumbai and Bangalore are the home of some of the top fashion rental services in India.

Fashion weeks

Fashion exhibitions

Noted fashion designers

In popular culture

The Indian fashion industry was the theme of the 2008 Hindi film, Fashion, written and directed by Madhur Bhandarkar, starring Priyanka Chopra and Kangana Ranaut as the leads.[19]

Academic research on Indian fashion

The Indian fashion industry as such remains academically understudied, even though there is research available on textiles, craft traditions and history of Indian dress. The only anthropological study of the Indian fashion industry, based on ethnographic research in Northern India, specifically New Delhi and Lucknow and dealing with both the worlds of luxury fashion designers and the worlds of craftspeople and workers in the industry, is Tereza Kuldova's work Luxury Indian Fashion: A Social Critique, published by Bloomsbury in 2016.[20]

See also

References

  1. ISBN 978-0-486-43040-9
    .
  2. ISBN 978-1-84520-413-6
    .
  3. ^ a b c Linda, p. 551
  4. ^ a b c d e f Yashica Dutt (July 26, 2013). "Indian fashion's greatest hits". Hindustan Times, Brunch. Archived from the original on 3 August 2013. Retrieved 28 July 2013.
  5. ^ a b "Bollywood influence on fashion trends waning? : Style File". India Today. November 23, 2012. Retrieved 28 July 2013.
  6. ^ a b "Bollywood: The fashion guru". The Economic Times. 4 Jul 2007. Retrieved 28 July 2013.
  7. ISBN 978-1-4094-9093-7
    .
  8. ^ "The West embraces Bollywood's influences more than ever". The National. Apr 10, 2012. Archived from the original on 30 December 2012. Retrieved 28 July 2013.
  9. ^ New Fashion School in India Draws From a Rich Heritage, by Barbara Crossette, The New York Times, June 21, 1989.
  10. ^ a b Linda, p. 553
  11. ^ Chitra Papnai (November 14, 2010). "Lord of the ramp". The Telegraph (India). Archived from the original on November 23, 2010. Retrieved 2014-05-29.
  12. ^ "The Couple Who Took Fashion Off The Street". Business Standard. October 18, 1997. Retrieved 2014-05-29.
  13. ^ Linda, p. 555
  14. ^ a b "Indian fashion industry going innovative to survive recession's onslaught". The Economic Times. Jul 25, 2009. Retrieved 28 July 2013.
  15. ^ "Lakme Fashion Week". Retrieved 11 August 2019.
  16. ^ "20 years of Gen Next at Lakme Fashion Week". Retrieved 10 February 2020.
  17. ^ "Jewellery trends by Poonam Soni for 2015". Mid-Day.com. Mid_Day. Retrieved 23 December 2014.
  18. ^ "Soha Ali Khan speaks about wanderlust at India Runway Week".
  19. ^ Kazmi, Nikhat (31 October 2008). "Fashion Review". The Times of India. Retrieved July 28, 2013.
  20. ISBN 9781474220934
    . Retrieved 16 February 2016.

Bibliography

External links

Media related to Fashion of India at Wikimedia Commons

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