Academic dress
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Academic dress is a traditional form of
Contemporarily, it is commonly seen only at
Overview and history
The academic dress found in most universities in the Commonwealth of Nations and the United States is derived from that of the universities of Oxford and Cambridge, which was a development of academic and clerical dress common throughout the medieval universities of Europe.[5] This overgarment had the practical purpose of keeping a scholar warm while they were sitting, immobile, studying.
Formal or sober clothing is typically worn beneath the gown so, for example, men would often wear a dark
Materials
In general, the materials used for academic dress are heavily influenced by the climate where the academic institution is located, or the climate where the graduate will usually be wearing the costume (as a faculty member at another institution, for example). In either case, the American Council of Education (ACE) allows for the comfort of the wearer, and concedes that lighter materials be used in tropical climates, and heavier materials elsewhere.[7] In addition, it acknowledges cotton poplin, broadcloth, rayon, or silk as appropriate.[8]
The materials used for academic dress vary and range from the extremely economical to the very expensive. In the United States, most Bachelor and master's degree candidates are often only presented the "souvenir" version of regalia by their institutions or authorized vendor, which are generally intended for very few wearings and are comparatively very inexpensive. For some doctoral graduates, commencement will be the only time they wear academic regalia, and so they rent their gowns instead of buying them. These rented (or hired)[9] gowns are often made of inexpensive polyester or other human-made synthetic fibre. In Britain, rented gowns are almost always polyester while Russell cord, silk, or artificial silk gowns are only available when bought. Undergraduate gowns are usually made from cotton or cotton and polyester mix and are relatively inexpensive to encourage students to own them.
People who choose to buy their dress may opt for finer fabrics, such as poplin, grosgrain, percale, cotton, wool, cassimere, broadcloth, Russell cord, or corded/ribbed material. For silk, there are a range of types including artificial silk/rayon, Ottoman (i.e. ribbed or corded silk), taffeta, satin, alpaca, true silk, shot silk, or a mixture. Pure Ottoman silk is rarely used except for official gowns, as it is very expensive.[10] Some gowns may be trimmed with gimp lace, cords, buttons, or other forms of decoration.
In the past,
Doctor's robes usually use wool flannel, panama (worsted), superfine cloth, damask, or brocade, and are brightly coloured (or black, but faced with a bright colour) to distinguish them from lower degrees. They tend to be the most expensive because they must be dyed in a specific colour and/or be trimmed in coloured silks. Many doctoral gowns have a special undress version so adding to the cost of a full set.
A full set may cost about US$360 (£180) for cheap materials to as much as $5800 (£2900) for high-quality materials.[12] Usually, ex-hire gowns are available for purchase at cheaper prices, though the quality may be lower.[13]
Many institutions whose dress includes gowns of varying lengths prescribe the appropriate length of each gown with reference to parts of the wearer's body (undergraduate gowns at Cambridge, for example, must not reach the knees, whereas BA gowns should reach just beyond them, according to the university's statutes)[citation needed]. As such, suppliers of academic dress produce gowns in many different sizes to fit persons of different heights.
By country or district
Canada
In
Most Canadian universities follow or adopted either the British University academic dress at Oxford or Cambridge universities,[15][16] or the Intercollegiate Code of Academic Costume ratified by most American universities in the late 1890s.[17] Other universities contain elements of the British and American patterns for some or all of their academic costumes. A classic example is the academic dress of McGill University, whose British origins are evident in the regalia of its degree holders. The distinctive ceremonial regalia of McGill University officials, though, are closer to the American pattern for the master's robe with above-the-elbow, square, slit-cut sleeves. The scarlet, doctor of philosophy (PhD) regalia of McGill can now be worn closed-front, unlike the open-front only gown of the University of Cambridge higher doctoral full dress, from which it evolved. Gold strand tassels used in American doctoral regalia are wrapped around McGill's otherwise Tudor-style bonnet or tam.
France
In
- A long gown (a bit similar to a cassock) with a long row of buttons (traditionally, 33, but nowadays usually fewer) in front and a train at the back (which in the current costume is not visible but attached with a button in the inner side of the gown). The gown is in two colours: black and the standard colour of the academic field in which the wearer graduated (see below), with simars (two vertical bands in the front of the gown).
- An épitoge (epitoga): A piece of cloth with white fur stripes (three for doctors) attached by a button on the left shoulder, with a rectangular, long, thin tail in the front and a triangular, shorter, broad tail in the back (both tails carry the fur stripes); its colour is that of the relevant academic field. The epitoga has evolved from the academic hood, which explains why the French academic dress does not include a hood.
- A long, wide belt or sash, either black or of the colour of the relevant academic field, ended by fringes (which may be golden or of the same colour as the belt), and attached with a broad, ornamental knot.
- A white rabat (jabot), over which a white tie may be worn for ceremonial occasions: It is made of lace for the dean of the faculty, the president of the university, and a few other officials, of plain cotton for others.
- Traditionally only for men, a mortarboard of the colour of the relevant academic field with a golden stripe, which is usually not worn but carried (since the academic dress in France is rarely worn outdoors, and men are not supposed to wear hats indoors), and often even omitted. Nowadays the practice is more relaxed, and the mortarboard is sometimes seen worn by women or worn indoor by men.
- In principle, a white bow tie (for men only ; quite rarely seen) and white gloves (nowadays never used).
Professors who served 20 years are sometimes presented with a sword (identical model to that of French police commissars).[citation needed]
The colours of the various academic fields are daffodil (yellow) for literature and arts, amaranth (purplish red) for science, redcurrant (reddish pink) for medicine, scarlet red for law, and violet (purple) for theology. University rectors, chancellors or presidents wear also specific costumes, which are violet regardless of the academic field in which they graduated.
Field of graduation | Colour name | Colour aspect |
---|---|---|
Divinity (and all high officials regardless of the field) | Violet (Purple, specifically the Royal Purple shade) | |
Law (colour also worn by high magistrates) | Écarlate (Scarlet) | |
Medicine (and health-related fields) | Groseille (Redcurrant, a reddish shade of pink) | |
Science (exact and experimental) | Amaranthe (Amaranth) | |
Arts, literature, philosophy, humanities | Jonquille (Daffodil, a shade of yellow) |
The dress exists in two versions: the petit costume ("small costume") and the grand costume ("great costume"). Both are identical in form, and differ only in the presence or absence of the mortarboard and the repartition of colours on the gown and sash (the other elements of the dress, especially the epitoga, being identical for both):
- for the petit costume, the gown is all black, except the simarras which are of the colour of the academic field; the buttons are black; the sash and its fringes moiré black; the mortarboard is usually not worn;
- for the grand costume, the gown is black between the simarras, which are moiré black, and of the colour of the academic field on the sides and on the sleeves, except their turn-ups, which are black; the buttons are of the colour of the academic field; the sash is of the colour of the academic field, its fringes may be either the same colour or gold.
In formal occasions, the grand costume is equivalent to white tie, whereas the petit costume is equivalent to black tie.
Germany
German academic dress generally consists of gown and cap. Nowadays, if in use at all, it is only found at special occasions, such as public processions, inaugurations of rectors, and graduation ceremonies. Historically, only the rectors, deans, professors, and lecturers wore academic dress—not students or graduates. Each German university had its own system of colours and drapings to signify faculty membership and position in the university hierarchy.
The gown of the German academic dress is called "Talar" (with the accent on the second "a": talár; from Latin talare which means to the ankles). It can be traced back to the everyday clothes of the scholars in the Middle Ages. The same word Talar is also used for the robes of Protestant (Lutheran) pastors and rabbis (not for judges or lawyers, their gowns are called "Robe"), although these gowns often differ more or less in cut, length, drapings, and sometimes even in colour (the gowns of the
The professorial Talar can be described as a long black gown with wide sleeves, often with lapels in faculty colour, while deans wear a Talar completely in faculty colour. Rectors typically have a distinguished, more elaborate Talar, e.g., made of velvet, coloured in red, or with gold embroidery.
After the
Since 2005, some universities introduced centrally organized graduation ceremonies for students of all faculties where academic dress is worn, most notably University of Bonn,[28] Chemnitz University of Technology,[29] and RWTH Aachen (only cap and stole).[30] The graduates' dress usually consists of a simple black gown, a square academic cap, and possibly a stole in faculty colour. At most other universities, faculties are responsible for organizing graduation ceremonies individually. Some faculties have decided for wearing academic dress at their ceremonies as well, e.g., the Faculty of Law at University of Marburg[31] and the Faculty of Economics and Business Administration at Goethe University Frankfurt.[32] This practice is commonly understood as following Anglo-American examples rather than reviving old traditions.
India
Indian universities followed
Indian universities today prescribe
Indonesia
This section needs additional citations for verification. (November 2017) |
In Indonesia, academic regalia, also called a toga is only worn in graduation ceremonies. An Indonesian toga generally comes in three pieces of clothing: a gown, a cape or a hood, and a cap with tassel (pentagon-shaped mortarboard/bonnet). Other items are also worn during graduation ceremony such as a medallion, tippet or academic stole.
There are four elements in Indonesian academic regalia:
- Gown – Indonesian academic gowns commonly come in black with a different color of trimming according to the field of study/faculty. In general they are long gowns with bell sleeves. There are some distinctive differences for each academic degree: for example, the length of undergraduate gown is usually below knee; for master's degrees, the gown is longer than undergraduate; and for doctoral degrees, the gown has a velvet panel (or velour for fabric substitution) on the front and sleeve.
- Cape or Hood – In most universities capes are commonly used for undergraduates/bachelor's degree students, meanwhile hoods are commonly used for graduate students (master/doctoral) and academic staff. A cape/hood is also colour-coded according to the field of study/faculty.
- Cap – For undergraduate and master's degrees a mortarboard is worn. Unlike most academic caps, which are square in shape, the Indonesian cap is usually pentagonal. Another type of cap like Tudor bonnet is generally worn by doctoral students, although in some universities like Padjadjaran University[37] the bonnet is worn for all academic degrees.
- Tassel – In most universities, before the commencement ceremony, undergraduates' tassel are placed on the left position, and during the graduation procession students receive their degree scroll/diploma and then move their tassel to the right. Tassels are also color-coded.
Italy
In
Faculty | Colour | Sample |
---|---|---|
Humanities | White | |
Architecture and Engineering | Black | |
Economics | Yellow | |
Law | Blue | |
Pharmacy | Maroon | |
Political science | Lilac
|
|
Education | Pink | |
Medicine and Surgery | Red | |
Veterinary medicine | Violet | |
Natural science | Green | |
Psychology | Grey | |
Sociology | Orange |
Malaysia
In Malaysia, most public university academic gowns incorporate Songket motifs.
Netherlands
At Dutch universities, academic dress does not come with a degree but with the incumbency of a professorial chair: only full, chaired professors wear the toga with bib and beret. The beret is usually a soft cap, square or round and made of velvet; the gown (ankle-length, open in the front), is made of wool trimmed with velvet or silk It is traditionally black, as in the robes of early-modern humanists; some universities have gowns with wide slashed sleeves edged in faculty-specific colours, others have a decorated sleeve but without specific faculty colours. Recently established universities may show a greater variety of colours.
Academic dress is only worn on ceremonial occasions: the university anniversary or dies natalis, inaugural lectures, and the public defence of a doctoral thesis. On such occasions, the assembled professors line up as a cortège headed by the university beadle, who also wears an academic gown and carries the university's mace. Male professors remove their beret when sitting down and put it on when standing up (e.g. to lecture or to address a doctoral candidate during the thesis defence). Female professors may keep the beret on at all times.
Academic dress may be completed by a chain of office (for the presiding Rector or Dean) or the insignia of honorary doctorates or royal orders (only worn at the dies natalis).
New Zealand
University graduates in New Zealand wear an academic gown identical to those of the University of Cambridge[55] and either a hood or scarf, depending on whether the graduate is receiving a degree or diploma. If the graduate is receiving a degree, a hood[55] will be worn throughout the ceremony. If a diploma is received, the graduate will wear a diploma scarf.[56]
The hood, like the gown, is identical to that of the hood for the Cambridge Master of Arts. A Bachelor's degree hood is lined with coloured satin and bordered with white fur (the exception to this are Canterbury and Waikato University which do not line their hoods with fur). The bachelor's degree with Honours hood is lined with coloured satin and bordered with white satin. The master's degree hood has no edging. A doctoral degree recipient wears the same as a graduate receiving a master's degree, except the gown is completely silk, either black or scarlet, with the option to wear a cloth gown. A Doctoral hood is completely silk and the headdress is a black Tudor bonnet, in place of the flat-topped mortarboard worn with bachelor's and master's gowns.
Academic dress is rarely worn in New Zealand other than at formal academic events, such as by graduates and faculty at graduation ceremonies and teaching faculty at school prizegivings. Some traditional boys' high schools retain the tradition of the headmaster wearing a gown while leading assemblies. Undergraduates who live at College House at the University of Canterbury must wear academic dress to dinner.
It is common for graduands to wear clothing or adornments significant to their culture at their graduation ceremony. For example, it is common to see
Below is a list of the general hood colours of graduates:
Faculty | Colour | Sample |
---|---|---|
Architecture | Lemon
|
|
Arts
|
Pink | |
BBIM
|
Apricot
|
|
MBA
|
Burgundy | |
Commerce | Orange | |
Dentistry | Violet | |
Economics | Copper
|
|
Education | Coral[57]
|
|
Engineering | Dark Violet | |
Fine Arts | Gold
|
|
Human Biology | Crimson | |
Law | Light Blue
|
|
Medicine | Lilac
|
|
Music | White | |
Nursing | Navy
|
|
Optometry | Blue Green
|
|
Performing Arts
|
Pink | |
Pharmacy | Grey Green | |
Philosophy | Dark Blue
|
|
Physical Education | Sage Green | |
Planning | Green | |
Property | Silver
|
|
Science | Dark Blue
|
|
Theology, Divinity | Forest Green , Violet Grey
|
Philippines
Most colleges and universities in the Philippines follow the traditional
In some schools of the country, the colour of the gown corresponds to the school colour (Blue for Colegio de San Juan de Letran and Ateneo de Manila University, Green for Far Eastern University, and Red for San Beda University).
Some schools, like the
A unique graduation garb worn at member universities of the
Elementary and high school students also wear a certain kind of academic dress upon their graduation, usually a white gown and mortarboard for public schools. For private schools, the gown and mortarboard's color is at the discretion of the administration. There are several schools which make use of a hood-like design on top of their gowns which bears the school colors.
-
UP Diliman graduates preparing for the march
-
UP Diliman graduation ceremonies
-
Themozettaover the Dominican habit
Poland
The wearing of traditional academic dress is an important feature of Polish educational ceremonies.
Portugal
Academic dress varies from university to university. In some situations, such as in doctoral exams, the hat is not used.
In Portugal, following an ancient tradition, university regular students also use a specific dressing. The "traje académico", as it is known in Portuguese, is recognized by its almost totally black color and cape. But other student dresses did exist, including the unique blue attire of the students of the University of Algarve (UAlg) in use until at least to the 2010s.[59]
Singapore
South Africa
Academic dress in South Africa varies from one institution to another, but generally follow UK patterns. A common distinction is for graduands in all degrees up to and including the master's degree to have black gowns, while the PhD candidate wears a scarlet gown. These days, academic dress is only used at graduation ceremonies. The wearing of traditional African attire, or modern clothes inspired by traditional attire, beneath the academic dress has been a distinct trend in recent years.
Spain
The typical Spanish academic dress has Latin origin. It has been regulated since 1850, when Queen
- A black long gown (toga) with a long row of buttons, made of satin and wool. It is worn over a black suit.
- A mozzetta (muceta), whose colour depends on the academic field.
- Long cuffs (puñetas) of the same fabric and color than the mozetta, covered by white cotton lace. Those of the Rector (University president) are bright red or pink, and the lace is usually silken. The buttons are made of gold for the Rector and made of silver for the Deans.
- An octagonal, tasseled biretta (birrete), whose colour depends on the academic field. Tassels of doctors holding more than one degree in separate fields alternate the corresponding colors.
- White gloves.
- A ring is usually worn by doctors.
- A staff or scepter (bastón) made of American reed is carried by the university rector.
- Medallions are often worn by postgraduates, doctors, professors, deans and the university rector.
However, this academic dress is only used for the opening of the academic year and for PhD graduations or for doctorates
The colours used in Spain for the various academic fields are:
Academic field | Colour name | Sample |
---|---|---|
Psychology | Lilac
|
|
Pharmacy | Purple | |
Odontology
|
Fuchsia | |
Law | Red | |
Architecture, Engineering | Brown | |
Political Sciences, Sociology
|
Orange | |
Medicine | Gold | |
Art, Theology | White | |
Veterinary Medicine
|
Green | |
Sport Sciences
|
Light green
|
|
Interpreting
|
Teal | |
Philosophy, Literature | Sky blue | |
Learning Sciences
|
Light Blue
|
|
Natural Sciences , Exact Sciences
|
Dark ("Turk") blue | |
Nursing | Grey | |
Journalism | Lead grey | |
Rector | Black |
Sri Lanka
In Sri Lanka, the academic dress consists of gown, hood (post-graduate) and a garland (on graduation day). Universities that were affiliated to the former University of Ceylon issue black gowns for graduates and post graduates; red gowns for masters and Phd graduates; crimson gowns for chancellors with a different colour gowns for senior academic faculty. These universities only issue garland on the graduation day to new graduates and only issue mortar boards to chancellor, vice chancellor and registrars. Private universities issue mortar boards to graduates along with a hood in place of garland.
Sweden and Finland
Finland and Sweden have similar traditions when it comes to academic clothing. For important academic ceremonies white tie is usually worn, however, often with traditional headwear and gowns. Gowns are not generally used except by the rector as a symbol of office, if anyone.
The regular
In both countries many universities have
Taiwan
Academic dress varies from university to university in Taiwan, generally consisting of cap and gown. Its use is limited to such special occasions as
Thailand
In Thailand, there are five different styles of academic dress: (1) traditional Thai, (2) traditional American, (3) French (Paris), (4) modified American, and (5) modified British.
Some universities prefer a traditional robe originated in the royal court, known as
Other universities in Thailand that use a traditional robe include
- Mae Fah Luang University, Chiang Rai;[63]
- Sukhothai Thammathirat Open University, Nonthaburi;[64]
- Khon Kaen University;[65]
- Naresuan University, Phitsanulok;[66]
- Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya;[citation needed]
- Mahamakut Buddhist University, Nakhon Pathom;[67]
- All King Mongkut's Universities of Technology;
- Most Rajabhat Universities and all Rajamangala universities of technology.
As a note, Mahachulalongkorn and Mahamakut Buddhist universities do not prescribe an academic dress for monks, nuns and clergymen. It is also customary that monks and ministers of religion do not wear a dress, when they are being admitted to the degree at other Thai universities.
Other universities employs academic dress of the modified American pattern, with the exception at Thammasat University and Kasetsart University. Thammasat University employs a plain black gown with different epitoge, a strip of cloth worn over the left shoulder, for distinct degrees. The number of fur bands upon the epitoge indicates the degree (i.e. 3 for doctors, 2 for masters and 1 for bachelors). The hat is not worn.[68] Kasetsart University, on the other hand, retains the original American academic dress style.[69] For bachelors, the dress comprises a plain sleeve gown with a coloured cord around the neck. This is different from many American universities, at which a scarf is used instead of a cord. Masters' gown exactly follows the American design. The sleeve is sewn shut at the end, with a slit to free the arm. Doctors' gown also follows the American tradition. The sleeve has three velvet bars to denote the seniority. The hat is included.
Since most Thai universities do not fully understand the original American tradition, they usually use an American doctoral gown for their doctoral degree. By reducing the number of velvet bars on the sleeve, it is possible to get gowns for masters (2 bars) and bachelors (1 bar or none). Notable examples of this deviation include Ramkhamhaeng University, Burapha University, Mahidol University and the University of Phayao. Some universities even incorporate the hood into a pattern on the gown, including Suranaree University of Technology and Walailak University. This eliminates the need of additional hood.
Tunisia
In
Turkey
Academic regalia in Turkey has many similarities with the academic dress traditions of the United States.
United Kingdom and Ireland
There is a distinction between different types of academical dress. Most recently, gowns, hoods and caps are categorised into their shape and patterns by the
The Burgon Society was founded in 2000 to promote the study of academic dress.[72] Its publications and activities examine the history and current use of academic dress. In 2011 it published the third edition of Shaw's reference book on British and Irish academical dress.[73] The Society hosts a conference each spring at which recent research is presented.[74]
The modern gown is derived from the roba worn under the cappa clausa, a garment resembling a long black cape. In early medieval times, all students at the universities were in at least minor orders, and were required to wear the cappa or other clerical dress, and restricted to clothes of black or other dark colour. The gowns most commonly worn, that of the clerical type gowns of bachelor's degrees (BA and BS) and master's degrees (MA and MS), are substantially the same throughout the English-speaking world. All are traditionally made of black cloth, (although occasionally the gown is dyed in one of the university's colours) and the material at the back of the gown is gathered into a yoke. The Bachelor's gown has bell-shaped sleeves, while the Master's gown has long sleeves closed at the end, with the arm passing through a slit above the elbow.[75]
There are two distinctive shapes used in the UK for doctor's gowns; the Oxford doctor's shape and the Cambridge doctor's shape. The former has bell-shaped sleeves, the latter has long open sleeves. Another rarer form is the Cambridge Doctor of Music dress gown which is a pattern between the two. The other form of doctor's gown is the undress gown. This is a black gown worn for less formal occasions such as lectures. This type of gown is rarely seen or worn nowadays as many wear the dress gown instead; however, the undress gown still plays a part in the older universities where academic dress is usually worn.
Undergraduates at many older universities also wear gowns;[76] the most common essentially a smaller knee-length version of the Bachelor's gown, or the Oxford Commoners gown which is a sleeveless lay type gown and has two streamers at the back at Oxford.[77] At Cambridge, most colleges have their own distinctive design of gown.[78] Undergraduates at St Andrews, with the exception of theology students, commonly wear scarlet woollen gowns with velvet collars.[79] Undergraduate gowns are seldom worn (even in institutions that prescribe them) nowadays except in the older universities.
Another form of dress, now rarely seen, is the habit, which is worn over a black gown. Only Oxford, Cambridge, Durham and Newcastle use habits and mainly reserve their use for very formal ceremonial occasions and to a specific group of academics or officials.
The hood was originally a functional garment, worn to shield the head from the elements. In the English tradition, it has developed to an often bright and decorative garment worn only on special occasions. Hoods comprise two basic patterns: full shape or simple shape. The traditional full-shape hood consists of a cape, cowl, and liripipe, as is used at Cambridge. At Oxford, the bachelors' and masters' hoods use simple hoods that have lost their cape and retain only the cowl and liripipe.[80] The colour and lining of hoods in academic dress represents the rank and/or faculty of the wearer.[81] In many Commonwealth universities bachelors wear hoods edged or lined with white rabbit fur, while masters wear hoods lined with coloured silk (originally ermine or other expensive fur). Doctors' hoods are normally made of scarlet cloth and lined with coloured silk.[82] Faculty colours were introduced by the University of London and many universities followed suit.[83]
The
Officers of the universities generally wear distinctive and more elaborate dress. The
At degree ceremonies, graduands often dress in the academic dress of the degree they are about to be admitted to prior to the actual graduation ceremony. This is not the case at several of the older universities in the UK, most notably, Oxford, Cambridge and St Andrews which have their own distinct traditions.
In addition to universities and colleges, a number of British professional bodies, such as the Institute of Biology and the Institute of Physics grant academic dress to their members.[86]
United States
Academic regalia in the United States has been influenced by the academic dress traditions of Europe. There is an Inter-Collegiate code which sets out a detailed uniform scheme of academic regalia followed by most, though some institutions do not adhere to it entirely, and fewer still ignore it. Generally, academic regalia in the United States consists of a mortarboard cap affixed with a tassel, and gown worn over other clothing.[87] The ensemble can also be adorned with an academic stole - a vestment used by various organizations to denote academic achievement.
The practice of wearing academic regalia in the United States dates to the
The committee reviewed the situation and approved a code for academic costumes that has been in effect since that year. A Committee on Academic Costumes and Ceremonies, appointed by the American Council on Education in 1959, again reviewed the academic dress code and made several changes.[88]
Although academic dress is now rarely worn outside commencement ceremonies or other academic rituals such as encaenia in the U.S. graduation ceremonies have gained popularity and have expanded from high school graduations to middle school, elementary school and kindergarten graduation ceremonies.[93]
Bachelors' and master's gowns in the United States are similar to their counterparts in the United Kingdom, though bachelor's gowns are now designed to be worn closed, and all are at least mid-calf length to ankle-length.[94] The masters' gown sleeve is oblong and, though the base of the sleeve hangs down in the typical manner, it is square cut at the rear part of the oblong shape. The front part has an arc cut away, and there is a slit for the wrist opening, but the rest of the arc is closed. The shape is evocative of the square-cut liripipe incorporated into many academic hoods (see, below). The master's gown is designed to be worn open or closed.[94]
The Code calls for the shell material of the hood to match the robe, and for the colour to be black regardless of the colour of the robe being worn.
Headwear is an important component of cap-and-gown, and the academic costume is not complete without it. The headwear will vary with the level of academic achievement and, to some extent, on the individual academic institution's specifications. For caps, the mortarboard is recommended in the Code, and the material required to match the gown.
The colours allocated to the various fields of learning have been largely standardized in the United States by the Intercollegiate Bureau of Academic Costume, and accepted by the American Council on Education in its Academic Costume Code.
A number of other items such as cords, stoles, aiguillettes, etc. representing various academic achievements or other honours are also worn at the discretion of some degree-granting institutions. Technically, however, the ACE code does not allow their use on or over academic regalia.
Pontifical universities
Academic dress for
262. Doctoratus ac Scentiae effectus canonici sic recensentur can. 1378...doctoribus seu gradum academicum in una ex quatuor supradictis facultatibus <<vide 261: philosophia, theologia, ius canonicum, Sacra Scriptura>> supremum obtinentibus, rite creatis, seu promotis regulariter post examen, iuxta « statuta a Sede Apostolica probata » (can. 1376, § 2) saltem quoad usum validum « facultatis ab eadem Aplca. Sede concessae » (can. 1377, § 1), deferendi, extra sacras functiones, (quarum nomine ad hunc eflectum non-venit ex usu sacra praedicatio), nisi aliunde amplietur eis hoc ius quoad a) annulum etiam cum gemma « ipsis a iure huius canonis concessum » (can. 136, § 2), b) et biretum doctorale, (idest: cum quatuor apicibus) utpote insigne huius gradus ac diverso colore ornatum pro Facultate.[103] |
262. The canonical effects of the doctorate and of the science are listed in can. 1378...doctors or an academic diegree in one of the four above-mentioned faculties <<See 261: philosophy, theology, canon law, Sacred Scripture>> have the highest rank, duly created, or promoted regularly after the examination, according to "appointed statutes approved by the Apostolic See" (c. 1376 §2). Granted see" (c. 1377 §1), for deferring outside sacred functions (the name of which does not come from the use of sacred preaching for this effect), unless this right may be extended to them from other sources as far as: a) a ring with a jewel "to them by the right granted under this canon" (c. 136, § 2), b) and a doctoral hat (that is, with four tips) as a badge of this degree and adorned in different colors for the Faculty. |
There is no equivalent canon in the current Code of Canon Law promulgated in 1983, but the tradition remains.
The Sartoria Gammerelli as of August 2013[update] offers, in line with the updated stipulations of the Pontifical Gregorian University, birettas lined with the following assorted piping and tufts depending on which faculty one is graduated from: Green for Canon Law, Red for Sacred Theology, Blue for Philosophy, and Orange for Social Sciences. Three-horned birettas are to be used by Licentiates, four-horned for Doctors.
Academic dress for the Pontifical University of Saint Thomas Aquinas, Angelicum graduates consists of a black toga or academic gown with trim to follow the color of the faculty, and an academic ring. For the doctoral degree a four corned biretta is to be worn, and for the Licentiate degree a three corned biretta is to be worn. See: Academic regalia of the Pontifical University of St. Thomas Aquinas. The 'traditional' biretta at the Pontifical University of Saint Thomas Aquinas, Angelicum, is white, to correspond to the white Dominican habit.[104] Also, the academic senate of the Angelicum in its May 2011 meeting indicated that the black biretta may be used with trim and pom in the color of the particular faculty.[105]
A three-peaked black biretta with appropriately colored piping may be similarly used by those receiving the licentiate degree (S.T.L., Ph.L.).
See also
- Academic procession
- Academic stole
- Burgon Society
- Chinese academic dress
- Ede & Ravenscroft
- Encaenia
- Graduation
- Groves classification system
- The Central Institute London
Academic dress details for the following universities are available via these links:
Canada
United Kingdom and Ireland
- Academic dress of the University of Bristol
- Academic dress of the University of Cambridge
- Academic dress of Durham University
- Academic dress of the University of Edinburgh
- Academic dress of the University of Exeter
- Academic dress of the University of Hertfordshire
- Academic dress of Imperial College London
- Academic dress of the University of Kent
- Academic dress of King's College London
- Academic dress of the University of Leeds
- Academic dress of Liverpool John Moores University
- Academic dress of the University of London
- Academic dress of the University of Manchester
- Academic dress of the University of Nottingham
- Academic dress of the University of Oxford
- Academic dress of the University of St Andrews
- Academic dress of the University of Wales
- Academic dress of the University of Wales, Lampeter
- Academic dress of the University of Warwick
- Academic dress of the University of Dublin
- Undergraduate gowns in Scotland
- Lambeth degree academic dress protocol
Others
- Academic dress of La Trobe University
- Academic dress of the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology
- Academic dress of Columbia University
- Academic dress of Harvard University
- Academic dress of Stanford University
- Academic dress of universities in Queensland, Australia
- Academic dress of University of Melbourne
References
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Bibliography
Books
- Christianson, Bruce (2006), "Academic Dress in the University of Hertfordshire". Hertfordshire, England: University of Hertfordshire. ISBN 190531339X
- Fowler, J. T. (1904), Durham University: earlier foundations and present colleges. London: F. E. Robinson & Co.
- Goff, Philip (1999), University of London Academic Dress. London: University of London Press. ISBN 0-7187-1608-6
- ISBN 0-85033-974-X
- Groves, Nicholas (2011), Shaw's Academical Dress of Great Britain and Ireland, 3rd ed. London: Burgon Society.
- Groves, Nicholas (2002, 2003, 2008, 2010), Key to the Identification of Academic Hoods of the British Isles. London: Burgon Society.
- Groves, Nicholas; Kersey, John (2002), Academical Dress of Music Colleges and Societies of Musicians in the United Kingdom. Norfolk: Burgon Society. ISBN 0-9544110-0-5
- Hargreaves-Mawdsley, W.N. (1963), A History of Academical Dress in Europe. Oxford: Clarendon Press.
- Venables, J. (2009), Academic Dress of the University of Oxford, 9th ed. Oxford: Shepherd & Woodward. ISBN 0-9521630-0-4
- Cox, Noel, Academical Dress in New Zealand: A Study (ISBN 978-3-639-29927-4)
Journals
- Kerr, Alex (ed.) et al. (2004), The Burgon Society Annual 2003.
- Kerr, Alex (ed.) et al. (2005), The Burgon Society Annual 2004. ISBN 0-9544110-6-4
- Kerr, Alex (ed.) et al. (2006), Transactions of the Burgon Society: Volume 5. ISBN 0-9544110-7-2
- Kerr, Alex (ed.) et al. (2008), Transactions of the Burgon Society: Volume 6. ISBN 0-9544110-8-0
- Kerr, Alex (ed.) et al. (2008), Transactions of the Burgon Society: Volume 7. ISBN 978-0-9544110-5-3
- Kerr, Alex (ed.) et al. (2009), Transactions of the Burgon Society: Volume 8. ISBN 978-0-9561272-1-1
- Kerr, Alex (ed.) et al. (2012), Transactions of the Burgon Society: Volume 10. ISBN 978-0-9561272-6-6
- Powell, Michael (ed.) et al. (2002), The Burgon Society Annual 2001.
- Powell, Michael (ed.) et al. (2003), The Burgon Society Annual 2002.
- Wolgast, Stephen L., Kerr, Alex (eds) et al. (2011), Transactions of the Burgon Society: Volume 9 – Special North American issue. ISBN 978-0-9561272-4-2
- Wolgast, Stephen L. (ed.) et al. (2012), Transactions of the Burgon Society: Volume 11.
- Wolgast, Stephen L. (ed.) et al. (2013), Transactions of the Burgon Society: Volume 12.
- Wolgast, Stephen L. (ed.) et al. (2014), Transactions of the Burgon Society: Volume 13.
Electronic
- Sullivan, Eugene (ed.) An Academic Costume Code and An Academic Ceremony Guide, American Council on Education. Reprinted with permission from American Universities and Colleges, 15th Edition (1997). Walter de Gruyter, Inc.
- Smagorinsky, Margaret. The REGALIA of Princeton University: Pomp, Circumstance, and Accountrements of Academia. The Trustees of Princeton University (Printed by Office of Printing and Mailing), 1994. Accessed 26 September 2008.
Further reading
- American Council on Education staff (1997). American Universities and Colleges, 15th Edition. Walter de Gruyter, Inc. ISBN 0-275-98745-0
- Belting, Natalia Maree (1956), The History of Caps and Gowns, New York : Collegiate Cap & Gown Co. via Internet Archive
- Franklyn, C.A.H. (1970), Academical Dress from the Middle Ages to the Present Day Including Lambeth Degrees. Lewes: WE Baxter.
- Haycraft, F.W. (1948), 4th ed. rev. Stringer, E.W Scobie, The Degrees and Hoods of the World's Universities and Colleges. Cheshunt Press.
- Rashdall, H. (1895, 1936), The Universities of Europe in the Middle Ages. Oxford: Clarendon Press.
- Rogers, F.R.S., Franklyn, C.A.H., Shaw, G.W., Boyd, H.A. (1972), The Degrees and Hoods of the World's Universities and Colleges. Lewes: WE Baxter.
- Smith, H.H., Sheard, K. (1970), Academic Dress and Insignia of the World. Cape Town: A.A. Balkema.
- Wood, T.W. (1882), The Degrees, Gowns and Hoods of the British, Colonial, Indian and American Universities and Colleges. London: Thomas Pratt & Sons.
External links
- "Academic Dress" mini portal – A list of internet resources compiled by The New York Times
- Academic Costume Code and Ceremony Guide from American Universities and Colleges, 15th Edition, by Eugene Sullivan.