Punk fashion
Punk fashion is the
Punk fashion has long been commercialized,[2] with well-established fashion designers like Zandra Rhodes,[3][4][5] Thierry Mugler,[6][7] Jean Paul Gaultier,[8][9] Stephen Sprouse,[10][11] and Anna Sui[12][13] using punk elements in their production and the first punk-influenced fashion spreads appearing in mainstream fashion magazines as early as 1976.[14] The early, pre-fame work of designer Vivienne Westwood helped pioneer the look of early British punk with her scene-establishing clothing shops Sex and Seditionaries in the mid-1970s, co-run with Malcolm McLaren who managed the Sex Pistols. Westwood was asked by then-partner McLaren to outfit the Sex Pistols, and Westwood's designs found a canvas on Johnny Rotten and Sid Vicious.[15] Her early work with Sex and the Sex Pistols helped to establish her as one of the most influential British designers of the 20th century.[16]
History
1970s
Punk rock was an intentional rebuttal of the perceived excess and pretension found in mainstream music (or even mainstream culture as a whole), and early punk artists' fashion was defiantly anti-materialistic. Bands that had been at the forefront of the wave of rebellion, like the Rolling Stones and the Beatles, had become 'respectable', having achieved worldwide renown and subsequent wealth. Arena rock groups of the early 70's, with long, drawn out songs rooted in the psychedelic movement, were viewed as out-of-touch by fans who were much less economically successful. A desire for music to reflect their values of dissatisfaction and alienation began to develop.[17] Generally unkempt, often short hairstyles replaced the long-hair hippie look and the usually elaborate 1970s rock and disco styles. In the United States, dirty, simple clothes – ranging from the T-shirt/jeans/leather jacket Ramones look to the low-class, second-hand "dress" clothes of acts like Television or Patti Smith – were preferred over the expensive or colorful clothing popular in the disco scene.[18] With her designs for The Rocky Horror Show and The Rocky Horror Picture Show, Sue Blane is credited with creating the look that became the template for punk rock fashion.[19]
In the United Kingdom, 1970s punk fashion influenced the designs of
British punks also used fashion as a means to criticize the monarchy; Westwood's God Save the Queen shirt featured an image of Queen Elizabeth II alongside text reading "She ain't no human being", taken directly from the Sex Pistol's single of the same name. While the band has denied that the single was produced specifically in reaction to the Queen's Silver Jubilee, the song and Westwood's design were viewed as an affront to British values of patriotism and the monarchy.
Many early punks wore swastikas and used Nazi imagery in their dress. As a means to provoke people, the symbol retained great power to alarm. Key examples of punk usage of Nazi symbols can be identified in Westwood's DESTROY t-shirt which was worn by members of the Sex Pistols, or a dress shirt which featured striping similar to those on the uniforms worn by prisoners in
Other accoutrements worn by some punks included:
Punk clothing sometimes incorporated everyday objects for aesthetic effect. Many outfits were made out pieces of clothing that were readily available, either from secondhand stores or whatever kids had on hand.
Preferred footwear included military boots,
Keen designers, much like Westwood, had been able to draw inspiration from the punk style found on the streets, translating its anarchic frustration and resistance to the runways.[32] Zandra Rhodes utilized rips, tears and safety pins in her 1977 'Conceptual Chic' collection; similarly, Claude Montana presented 12 models in "black leather jackets, caps, and pants in 1977. As it gained popularity on the runway, many designers viewed its origin on the streets as 'trashy' and that it no longer served as a source of fresh inspiration.[33] Fashion designers ended up creating a standardized palette where the punk look was, more or less, essentially uniform. Spiky hair, jeans or bondage trousers, leather jackets with slogans, pins, and patches on them, T-shirts, studs and chains all became hallmarks of the look, undermining the individuality that had been essential to the movement.[34]
1980s
In the 1980s, new fashion styles developed as parallel resurgences occurred in the
Some of the following clothing items were common on both sides of the Atlantic Ocean, and some were unique to certain geographic areas. Footwear that was common in the 1980s punk scene included Dr. Martens boots, motorcycle boots and combat boots; sometimes adorned with bandanas, chains or studded leather bands. Jeans (sometimes dirty, torn or splattered with bleach) and tartan kilts or skirts were commonly worn. Leather skirts became a popular item for female punks. Heavy chains were sometimes used as belts. Bullet belts, and studded belts (sometimes more than one worn at a time) also became common.
Some punks bought T-shirts or plaid flannel shirts and wrote political slogans, band names or other punk-related phrases on them with marker pens. While this was not without precedent in the 1970s, the depth and detail of these slogans were not fully developed until the 1980s. Silkscreened T-shirts with band logos or other punk-related logos or slogans were also popular. Studded, painted and otherwise customised leather jackets or denim vests became more popular during this era, as the popularity of the earlier customized blazers waned, somewhat.
Hair was either shaved, spiked or in a crew cut or Mohawk hairstyle. Tall mohawks and spiked hair, either bleached or in bright colors, took on a more extreme character than in the 1970s. Charged hair, in which all of one's hair stands on end but is not styled into distinct spikes, also emerged. A hairstyle similar to The Misfits' devilocks was popular. This involved cutting a mohawk but leaving a longer tuft of hair at the front of the head. It is still popular to this day in the Horror-Punk scene. Body piercings and extensive tattoos became very popular during this era, as did spike bands and studded in chokers. Some hardcore punk women reacted to the earlier 1970s movement's coquettish vibe by adopting an androgynous style.
Hardcore punk fans adopted a dressed-down style of
The style of the 1980s hardcore scene contrasted with the more provocative fashion styles of late 1970s punk rockers (elaborate
Jimmy Gestapo from Murphy's Law describes his own transition from dressing in a punk style (spiked hair and a bondage belt) to adopting a hardcore style (shaved head and boots) as being based on needing more functional clothing.[36] A scholarly source states that "hardcore kids do not look like punks", since hardcore scene members wore basic clothing and short haircuts, in contrast to the "embellished leather jackets and pants" worn in the punk scene.[39] In contrast to Morris' and Rollins' views, one scholarly source claims that the standard hardcore punk clothing and styles included torn jeans, leather jackets, spiked armbands and dog collars and mohawk hairstyles and DIY ornamentation of clothes with studs, painted band names, political statements, and patches.[40] Another scholarly source describes the look that was common in the San Francisco hardcore scene as consisting of biker-style leather jackets, chains, studded wristbands, pierced noses and multiple piercings, painted or tattooed statements (e.g. an anarchy symbol) and hairstyles ranging from military-style haircuts dyed black or blonde, mohawks, and shaved heads.[41]
Different styles
Various factions of the punk subculture have different fashion styles, although there is often crossover between the subgroups. The following are descriptions of some of the most common punk styles, categorized alphabetically.
Anarcho-punk
Anarcho-punk fashion usually features all-black militaristic clothing, a style that was pioneered by the English punk band Crass.[42] A prominent feature is the heavy use of anarchist symbols and slogans on clothing items. Some who define themselves as anarcho-punks opt to wear clothing similar to traditional punk fashions or that of crust punks, but not often to the extreme of either subculture. Mohawk hairstyles and liberty spikes are seen. Tight trousers, bands T-shirts and boots are common. Hairstyling products often are used only if the company that manufactures it did not test them on animals. Leather often avoided due to veganism, may be replaced with imitation leather or cloth in a similar design as leather products.
Celtic punk
Fans of
Cowpunk
The cowpunk clothing style is a stereotypical
Crust punk
Crust punks sometimes sew articles of clothing with found or cheaply bought materials, such as dental floss. Pants are sometimes held up with
Dance-punk
Dark cabaret and Gypsy punk
Fans of
Garage punk
Glam punk
Contemporary to the garage bands of the early 1970s,
Hardcore punk
There are several styles of dress within the
Plain
.Hardcore skinheads, sometimes known as "American punk skinheads," are characterised by some of the same items as British skinhead fashion, but hardcore skinhead dress is considerably less strict than traditional skinhead or oi! skinhead style.[citation needed]
Horror punk and deathrock
Pop punk
Psychobilly
Ska punk
Skate punk
Skate punk is a derivative of hardcore fashion and is chosen with comfort and practicality in mind. Common
Street punk and Oi!
In general, contemporary
Oi! skinheads, sometimes known as skunks or punk-skinheads, fuse traditional skinhead style with street punk fashions. The look is characterised by Dr. Martens boots (or similar boots made by a different brand), braces, and tight rolled-up jeans, sometimes splattered with bleach. Other common items are T-shirts (featuring band names, political beliefs or other text and images relevant to skinhead culture) and denim jackets or flight jackets. These jackets are sometimes decorated with buttons or patches, and in the case of the denim jackets, sometimes splattered with bleach. Hair is typically shaved shorter than with traditional skinheads. Other items from traditional skinhead fashion (e.g. Fred Perry and Ben Sherman shirts) and, to a lesser extent, punk fashion items (e.g. short mohawk hairstyles, metal studs on jackets) are also sometimes worn.[57]
Droog
During the early 1980s, some
Rivethead
A "rivethead" or "rivet head" is a person associated with the
See also
References
- Dick Hebdige (1979). Subculture: The Meaning of Style (Routledge, March 10, 1981; softcover ISBN 0-8195-6310-2.
- ISBN 0-9552017-0-5)
Notes
- ^ Hudson, Alice (2016). "Understanding the Politics of Punk Clothing from 1976 to 1980 Using Surviving Objects and Oral Testimony" (PDF). University of Brighton (Dissertation). Archived from the original (PDF) on 2018-04-03. Retrieved 2019-02-12.
- ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1978-01-01). "Fashion Notes". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04.
...[P]unk...has inspired the huge trash cans with shoulder ropes being sold...as trendy carryalls at New York's Fiorucci.
- ISBN 0-670-80172-0.
1977: Rhodes presented a 'punk' collection of ripped, zipped and safety-pinned jersey evening dress...
- ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1977-10-29). "And Now 'Punk Chic'". The Washington Post.
The French are not the first to exploit punk fashion. British fashion designer Zandra Rhodes incorporated rips and tears and safety pins into $600 silk crepe dresses a season back [spring 1977]. Stores like Sakowitz in Houston sold them 'rather well,' according to Robert Sakowitz, the store owner.
- ^ Morris, Bernadine (1977-09-17). "All Around Town, a Week of Lavish Couture Openings". The New York Times: 19. Retrieved 2022-04-04.
...Zandra Rhodes, the British designer who transcribed the punk rock image into the idiom of high fashion....Zandra Rhodes...catapulted 'punk rock' to the fashion world's attention....The style is characterized by cutouts, safety pins and chains...In Miss Rhode's versions, there was not much of the aggressive, sadistic punk rock flavor.
- ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1977-10-24). "Thinking Big for Spring". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-02-07.
There is punk influence at Thierry Mugler, including a punk model with fluorescent yellow hair...
- ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1977-10-29). "And Now 'Punk Chic'". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04.
At Thierry Mugler, black leather and safety-pin jewelry showed up on the runway worn by the cool, blonde [French punk icon] Edwige.
- ISBN 0-670-80172-0.
...Jean-Paul Gaultier fused the showmanship of a couture training...with the design anarchy borrowed from London's streets...
- ISSN 0740-4921.
Jean Paul Gaultier...defines the neo-punk yuppies.
- ISSN 0740-4921.
Stephen Sprouse...continues to manipulate...the Sixties hippie and Seventies punk influences...
- ^ Goodman, Wendy (1987-09-21). "Stephen Sprouse Tries a Comeback with a Solid New Store". New York. 20 (37): 139. Retrieved 2022-08-18.
Stephen Sprouse...T-shirts printed with safety pins, skulls, and barbed wire; eleven-inch micro-skirts in...camouflage patterns;...dresses covered with gold safety pins...
- ^ Nika, Colleen (September 14, 2011). "Exclusive: Anna Sui Discusses Her Spring 2012 Show and Punk Rock Heritage". rollingstone.com. Rolling Stone. Retrieved November 2, 2016.
- ^ Drain, Kelsey (May 13, 2016). "Opening Ceremony, Anna Sui Capsule Collection Launches; Designer's '90s Pieces Reissued". fashiontimes.com. Fashion Times. Archived from the original on November 4, 2016. Retrieved November 2, 2016.
- ISBN 0-670-80172-0.
1976: The punk image began to be covered in Italian Vogue, which featured page after page of black clothing worn with aggressive accessories: low-slung, studded belts, leather knuckle-dusters, dog chains, and wrap-around sunglasses. Hair was dishevelled and tied with black lace ribbons.
- ^ Andrew, Scottie. "How Vivienne Westwood dressed the Sex Pistols and shaped punk". CNN. Retrieved 2023-04-01.
- ^ Price, Authors: Shannon. "Vivienne Westwood (born 1941) and the Postmodern Legacy of Punk Style | Essay | The Metropolitan Museum of Art | Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History". The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. Retrieved 2023-04-01.
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- ^ "The Disco Lifestyle". socialdance.stanford.edu. Retrieved 2020-10-14.
- ISBN 978-1495007477.
- ^ Kawamura, Y (2005). Fashion-ology : An Introduction to Fashion Studies. Oxford: Bloomsbury Publishing. p. 102.
- ^ Walker, John. "Malcolm McLaren & the sources of Punk".
- ^ "Rip It to Shreds: A History of Punk and Style". Pitchfork. Retrieved 2023-04-01.
- ^ "Snow White & The Disneyland Memorial Orgy". Archived from the original on 2017-08-07. Retrieved 2017-08-07.
- S2CID 143857096.
- ^ Shutler, Ali (2022-04-04). "Punk Legend Jordan – aka Pamela Rooke – Has Died". New Musical Express. Retrieved 2022-04-22.
Rooke was a model who worked with Vivienne Westwood and helped create the W10 London punk look alongside Johnny Rotten, Soo Catwoman and Siouxsie Sioux.
- ^ "Soo Catwoman". Soo Catwoman. Retrieved 2022-04-22.
- ^ Kelly, Mark (2019-08-14). "Exclusive Interview with The Adverts Iconic Bass Player Gaye Advert". Brighton and Hove News. Retrieved 2022-04-22.
- ^ "Understanding the Punk Fashion Movement on 2020's Runways - Coveteur: Inside Closets, Fashion, Beauty, Health, and Travel". coveteur.com. Retrieved 2023-04-01.
- ^ "Rip It to Shreds: A History of Punk and Style". Pitchfork. Retrieved 2023-04-01.
- ^ "The Filth and the Fury: how punk changed everything". The Independent. 2013-04-28. Retrieved 2023-04-01.
- ^ Rosato, Ashley (2022-12-01). "Vivienne Westwood and the Socio-Political Nature of Punk". Honors College Theses.
- ^ "Understanding the Punk Fashion Movement on 2020's Runways - Coveteur: Inside Closets, Fashion, Beauty, Health, and Travel". coveteur.com. Retrieved 2023-04-01.
- ISSN 0190-8286. Retrieved 2023-04-01.
- S2CID 143857096.
- ^ "80s Fashion - Vintage 80s Style and Outfits". Premium Review. 2019-01-31. Retrieved 2019-01-31.
- ^ a b Brockmeier, Siri C. (May 2009). 'Not Just Boys Fun?' The Gendered Experience of American Hardcore (PDF) (Thesis). UNIVERSITETET I OSLO Press. p. 12. Retrieved 6 July 2016.
- ^ "CITIZINE Interview - Circle Jerks' Keith Morris (Black Flag, Diabetes)". Citizinemag.com. 2003-02-17. Archived from the original on 2011-10-06. Retrieved 2011-12-04.
- ^ "29 Things You Didn't Know About Punk Style - Hardcore punk of the '80s preferred simple, utilitarian style because it was better for moshing". Complex Networks. Retrieved 6 July 2016.
- ^ Brockmeier, Siri C. (May 2009). 'Not Just Boys Fun?' The Gendered Experience of American Hardcore (PDF) (Thesis). UNIVERSITETET I OSLO Press. p. 11. Retrieved 6 July 2016.
- ^ Leblanc, Lauraine (1999). 'Pretty in Punk: Girls' Gender Resistance in a Boys' Subculture. Rutgers University Press. p. 52.
- ^ Travis, Tiffini A.; Hardy, Perry (2012). Skinheads: A Guide to an American Subculture. ABC-CLIO. p. 123.
{{cite book}}
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- ^ "Cowpunk Fashion Influence". Apparel Search Fashion Guide. Retrieved 2022-04-22.
- ^ a b Stewart-Panko, Kevin (August 2008). "I Saw Disfear Three Times in Three Days". Decibel. 46: 22.
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- ^ "Home - The Tiger Lillies". Feast Creative. Retrieved 6 July 2016.
- ^ Bovey, Seth (2006). Don't Tread on Me: The Ethos of '60s Garage Punk. Vol. 29. Routledge. pp. 451–459.
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- ^ "The Mighty Mighty Bosstones - Biography, Albums, & Streaming Radio - AllMusic". AllMusic. Retrieved 6 July 2016.
- ^ "Explore: Third WaveIJS Ska Revival - AllMusic". AllMusic. 9 December 2010. Archived from the original on December 9, 2010. Retrieved 6 July 2016.
{{cite web}}
: CS1 maint: unfit URL (link) - ^ Petridis, Alexis (18 March 2010). "Misunderstood or hateful? Oi!'s rise and fall". The Guardian. Retrieved 6 July 2016.
- ^ Rose, Steve (October 28, 2013). "A Clockwork Orange: The droog rides again". The Guardian.
- ^ "Clockwork punk top bands". Last.FM. October 28, 2013.
- ^ Forman, Bill (2011-03-03). "Viva la evolution". The Colorado Springs Independent. Archived from the original on 2016-08-14. Retrieved 2016-07-06.
- ^ Shepyer, Rob (2019-03-10). "Real Horror Show: Hat Trickers and Lower Class Brats at the Bootleg Theater". Janky Smooth. Retrieved 2020-03-27.
- ^ "Live Report of and Interview with Hat Trickers in Tokyo". JaME. 2016-07-12. Retrieved 2020-03-27.
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- ^ Goodlad & Bibby 2007, p. 69.
External links
- "DIY Punk Fashion - Photos and Instructions to make Punk DIY clothing, accessories and jewelry".
- Pauline Weston Thomas (2007). "1970s Punk Fashion History Development". Fashion-Era.com.
- "Swastica and Punk". Punk Scenes. geocities.com. Archived from the original on 2009-10-27. Retrieved 2009-10-27.
- "Punk and the Swastica". SUMMER OF HATE. Punk Rock Zine. Archived from the original on 2009-10-27. Retrieved 2009-12-05.