Significant wave height

In physical oceanography, the significant wave height (SWH, HTSGW^[1] or H_s) is defined traditionally as the mean

The symbol H_m0 is usually used for that latter definition. The significant wave height (H_s) may thus refer to H_m0 or H_1/3; the difference in magnitude between the two definitions is only a few percent. SWH is used to characterize sea state, including winds and swell.

Origin and definition

The original definition resulted from work by the oceanographer Walter Munk during World War II.^[3][4] The significant wave height was intended to mathematically express the height estimated by a "trained observer". It is commonly used as a measure of the height of ocean waves.

Time domain definition

Significant wave height H_1/3, or H_s or H_sig, as determined in the time domain, directly from the time series of the surface elevation, is defined as the average height of that one-third of the N measured waves having the greatest heights:^[5]

where H_m represents the individual wave heights, sorted into descending order of height as m increases from 1 to N. Only the highest one-third is used, since this corresponds best with visual observations of experienced mariners, whose vision apparently focuses on the higher waves.^[5]

Frequency domain definition

Significant wave height H_m0, defined in the

$${\displaystyle H_{m_{0}}=4{\sqrt {m_{0}}}=4\sigma _{\eta },}$$

where m₀, the zeroth-

integration

of the variance spectrum. In case of a measurement, the standard deviation σ_η is the easiest and most accurate statistic to be used.

• Another wave-height statistic in common usage is the
  root-mean-square (or RMS) wave height H_rms, defined as:^[5]
  $${\displaystyle H_{\text{rms}}={\sqrt {{\frac {1}{N}}\sum _{m=1}^{N}H_{m}^{2}}},}$$

  
  with H_m again denoting the individual wave heights in a certain time series.

Statistical distribution of the heights of individual waves

Significant wave height, scientifically represented as H_s or H_sig, is an important parameter for the statistical distribution of ocean waves. The most common waves are lower in height than H_s. This implies that encountering the significant wave is not too frequent. However, statistically, it is possible to encounter a wave that is much higher than the significant wave.

Generally, the statistical distribution of the individual wave heights is well approximated by a Rayleigh distribution.^[7] For example, given that H_s is 10 metres (33 feet), statistically:

• 1 in 10 will be larger than 10.7 metres (35 ft)
• 1 in 100 will be larger than 15.1 metres (50 ft)
• 1 in 1000 will be larger than 18.6 metres (61 ft)

This implies that one might encounter a wave that is roughly double the significant wave height. However, in rapidly changing conditions, the disparity between the significant wave height and the largest individual waves might be even larger.

Other statistics

Other statistical measures of the wave height are also widely used. The RMS wave height, which is defined as square root of the average of the squares of all wave heights, is approximately equal to H_s divided by 1.4.^[2][8]

For example, according to the Irish Marine Institute:^[9]

"… at midnight on 9/12/2007 a record significant wave height was recorded of 17.2m at with [sic] a period of 14 seconds."

Measurement

Although most measuring devices estimate the significant wave height from a

Weather forecasts

The

issue these forecasts.

RSMCs use wind-wave models as tools to help predict the sea conditions. In the U.S., NOAA's WAVEWATCH III^(R) model is used heavily.

Generalization to wave systems

A significant wave height is also defined similarly, from the wave spectrum, for the different systems that make up the sea. We then have a significant wave height for the wind-sea or for a particular swell.

See also

• Ocean Prediction Center
• Rogue wave: a wave of over twice the significant wave height
• Sea state

Notes

External links

• Current global map of significant wave height and period
• NOAA WAVEWATCH III^(R)
• NWS Environmental Modeling Center
• Envirtech solid state payload for directional waves measurement