Berkhamsted: Difference between revisions

Berkhamsted

The earliest recorded spelling of the town's name is the 10th century

Local historian Percy Birtchnell identified over 50 different spellings and epithets for the town's name since the writing of the Domesday Book; the present spelling was adopted in 1937.^[12][13] Other spellings included: "Berkstead", "Berkampsted", "Berkhampstead", "Muche Barkhamstede", "Berkhamsted Magna", "Great Berkhamsteed" and "Berkhamstead".^[14][15] The town's local nickname is "Berko".^[16]

Prehistoric and Roman

Neolithic, Bronze Age, Iron Age and Roman artefacts show that the Berkhamsted area of the Bulbourne Valley has been settled for over 5,000 years.^[18][19][20] The discovery of a large number of worked flint chips provides Neolithic evidence of on-site flint knapping in the centre of Berkhamsted.^[21] Several settlements dating from the Neolithic to the Iron Age (about 4500–100 BC) have been discovered south of Berkhamsted. Three sections of a late Bronze Age to Iron Age (1200–100 BC) bank and ditch, sixteen feet (five metres) wide by seven to thirteen feet (two to four metres) high and known as Grim's Ditch, are found on the south side of the Bulbourne Valley.^[22][23] Another Iron Age dyke with the same name is on Berkhamsted Common, on the north side of the valley.^[24][25]

In the late Iron Age, prior to the Roman occupation, the valley would have been within Catuvellauni territory.^[22] The Bulbourne Valley was rich in timber and iron ore. In the late Iron Age, a four-square-mile (ten-square-kilometre) area around Northchurch became a major iron production centre, now considered to be one of the most important late Iron Age and Roman industrial areas in England.^[26][24] Iron production led to the settlement of a Roman town at Cow Roast,^[27] about two miles (three kilometres) northwest of Berkhamsted. Four first century iron smelting bloomeries at Dellfield (one mile (two kilometres) northwest of the town centre) provide evidence of industrial activity in Berkhamsted.^[28][29] Production ceased at the end of the Roman period. Other evidence of Roman-British occupation and activity in the Berkhamsted area, includes a pottery kiln on Bridgewater Road.^[30][25][31] The town's high street still follows the line of the Roman-engineered Akeman Street, which had been a pre-existing route from St Albans (Verulamium) to Cirencester (Corinium).

During Roman occupation the countryside close to Verulamium was subdivided into a series of farming estates.^[32] The Berkhamsted area appears to have been divided into two or three farming estates, each including one or more masonry villa buildings, with tiled roofs and underfloor heating.

• The remains of a villa were found close to the river in 1973 in the adjacent village of Northchurch. The oldest building, made of timber, was built in AD 60, rebuilt using stone in the early 2nd century, and enlarged to a ten-room building around AD 150. The house may have been empty for a period, reoccupied in the 4th century, and abandoned in the late 4th or early 5th century.^[33][34]
• A Roman-British villa, dyke, and temple were found 1.25 miles (2.01 km) NNW of the castle, near Frithesden, at the edge of the Berkhamsted Golf Course. Excavations in 1954 revealed masonry foundations and tesserae floors. Together, the villa, dyke and temple form a unique complex, suggesting occupation in the late Iron Age and Roman period.^[35]
• Two flint and tile walls from a Roman building were found north of Berkhamsted Castle in 1970. The construction of the castle's earthworks in the Middle Ages may have damaged this building.^[30][36]

Anglo-Saxon settlement

The earliest written reference to Berkhamsted is in the will of

The parish of Berkhamsted St Mary's (in Northchurch) once stretched five miles from the hamlet of Dudswell, through Northchurch and Berkhamsted to the former hamlet of Bourne End. Within Berkhamsted, the Chapel of St James, was a small church situated near St John's Well (a 'holy well' that was the town's principal source of drinking water in the Middle Ages).^[40] The parish of this church (and later that of St Peter's) was an enclave of about 4,000 acres (1,600 ha) that was carved out of the middle of Berkhamsted St Mary's.^{[Notes 2][41][14][42]} By the 14th century the adjoining village of "Berkhamsted St Mary" or "Berkhamsted Minor" name had changed to "North Church", later "Northchurch", to distinguish the village from the town of Berkhamsted.^{[41][14][33][39][43]}

1066 and the Domesday Record

The Anglo-Saxons surrendered the crown of England to

Berkhamsted Castle is a well-documented example of an 11th-century

In 1833, the castle was the first building to receive statutory protection in the United Kingdom. In 1834, construction of the railway embankment demolished the castle's gatehouse and adjacent earthworks.^[76] Since the 1930s, the castle ruins have been managed by English Heritage, under the guardianship of the Secretary of State for National Heritage, and are freely open to the public.^[72]

Medieval market town (12th to 15th centuries)

Though close to the castle, the town continued to develop on the old Akeman Street 0.4 miles (1 km) to the south of the castle and to the west of St Peter's Church; with a triangle formed by Mill Street, Castle Street and Back Lane pointing towards the castle.

The town became a trading centre on an important trade route in the 12th and 13th centuries, and Berkhamsted received more royal charters. In 1216,

In the 16th century, the town fell into decline after abandonment of the castle following the death of

Industries in the 19th century included:

· Timber: In the mid-18th century, Berkhamsted had been noted for turned wood products. Based on the extensive woodland resources of the area (principally alder and beech), the milling and turning of wood was the town's most prominent industry in the 19th century. The Crimean War contracts for supplying the army with lance poles and tent pegs led to major expansion.^[110] The largest manufacturer was East & Sons.

· Brush making: An offshoot of the timber industry. The largest employers were Goss Brushworks at the west end of the High Street (closed 1930s) and T.H. Nash in George Street (closed 1920s).^[110]

· The Canal Trade provided a considerable economic stimulus to the town, enabling the development of industries which involved bulk transport of materials. These included timber and malt.^[110]

· Boat building: Berkhamsted also became a centre for the construction of the barges needed for the canal trades.^[111] A yard for building canal barges and other boats between Castle Street and Raven's Lane wharves, was one of three important boatyards in Hertfordshire. It was owned by John Hatton until 1880 and then by William Costin until 1910 when it was taken over by Key's, the timber merchants which in 1969 was bought by another timber merchant J. Alsford before being redeveloped into flats in 1994. Located at this site, adjacent to the canal is the Berkhamsted Canadian totem pole.

· Watercress: The construction of the canal had helped to drain the marshy areas along the valley of the River Bulbourne. In 1883, the Berkhamsted Times congratulated Mr Bedford on having converted the remaining "dirty ditches and offensive marshes" into watercress beds.^[112]

· Chemical: Cooper's sheep-dip works; William Cooper was an animal doctor who arrived in Berkhamsted in the early 1840s and experimented in treatments for scab in sheep. He formulated an innovative arsenic and sulphur sheep-dip.^[110] The Cooper family firm was later inherited by his nephew, Sir Richard Cooper, 1st Baronet.

·

Nurserymen

: Henry Lane's nurseryman business, founded in 1777, became one of the largest employers in the town in the 19th century. Extensive nurseries are shown on the 1878 OS 25 inch plan, at the western end of the town.

· Iron working: Wood's Ironworks was set up in 1826 by James Wood.^[112]

Utilities in the 19th century included:

· Gasworks: The Great Berkhamsted Gas, Light & Coke Co., at the junction of Water Lane and the Wilderness, was set up to provide street lighting in 1849. In 1906, the Berkhamsted Gas Works moved to Billet Lane; it closed in 1959.^[96]

· Water and sewage: The Great Berkhamsted Waterworks Company was set up in 1864 on the high street (on the present site of W.H. Smith and Boots). Mains drainage was first supplied in 1898–99, when effective sewerage was installed.^[96]

Provision for the destitute

The Battle of Berkhamsted Common played an important part in the preservation of common land nationally.[117] After 1604 the former Ashridge Priory became the home of the Edgerton family. 1808-1814 Francis Egerton, 3rd Duke of Bridgewater, demolished the old priory, and built a stately home Ashridge House. In 1848 the estate passed to the Earls Brownlow, a strand of the Egerton family.^[118]

In 1866, Lord Brownlow of Ashridge House (in an action similar to many other large estate holders) tried to

In 1909 Sunnyside and later in 1935 Northchurch were added to Berkhamsted Urban District. Shortly after 1918 much of the extensive estate belonging to Berkhamsted Hall, at the east end of the High Street, was sold; many acres west of Swing Gate Lane were developed with Council housing. More council housing was built at Gossoms End. Development on the north side of the valley was limited until the sale of the Ashridge estate in the 1930s after which housing appeared at each end of Bridgewater Road.[128] Meanwhile, over the last century, many of the old industrial firms in Berkhamsted closed, while the numbers of commuters increased.

After the Second World War, in July 1946, the nearby town of Hemel Hempstead was designated a

Berkhamsted is situated 26 miles (42 km) northwest of London within the

alluvial soils in the valley bottom and chalk, clay and flint on the valley sides.^[26][131] The River Bulbourne, a chalk stream, runs through the valley for seven miles (11 km) in a southeast direction, starting at Dudswell and the adjoining village of Northchurch and running through Berkhamsted, Bourne End and Boxmoor, where it merges with the River Gade at Two Waters in Apsley, near Hemel Hempstead.

oak, ash and beech woodland. On the northeast side of town are the Berkhamsted and Northchurch commons, the largest in the Chilterns at 1,055 acres (427 ha), and forming a large arc running from Northchurch, through Frithsden and down to Potten End. Ownership of Berkhamsted Common is divided between the National Trust and Berkhamsted Golf Club. Beyond the common is the 5,000-acre (2,000 ha) historic wooded parkland of Ashridge; once part of Berkhamsted Castle's hunting park, it is now managed by the National Trust. Ashridge is part of the Chilterns Beechwood Special Area of Conservation (SAC), a nationally important nature conservation area, and is also designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest. Agriculture is more dominant to the south of the town; close to the Buckinghamshire border there are two former large country estates, Ashlyns and Rossway. The ancient woodland at Dickshills is also located here.^{[135][140][141]}

Neighbouring settlements

Local villages

Bourne End, Nettleden, Frithsden Potten End, Aldbury, Ringshall, Little Gaddesden, Great Gaddesden, Northchurch, Cow Roast, and Ashley Green (Buckinghamshire)

Climate

Like most of the United Kingdom, Berkhamsted has an oceanic climate (Köppen climate classification Cfb).

Climate data for Berkhamsted
Month	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec	Year
Mean daily maximum °C (°F)	6 (43)	7 (45)	10 (50)	12 (54)	16 (61)	19 (66)	21 (70)	22 (72)	18 (64)	14 (57)	9 (48)	6 (43)	13 (55)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F)	3 (37)	3 (37)	4 (39)	5 (41)	8 (46)	10 (50)	12 (54)	13 (55)	11 (52)	8 (46)	5 (41)	3 (37)	7 (45)
Average precipitation mm (inches)	69.3 (2.73)	59.4 (2.34)	46.5 (1.83)	70.1 (2.76)	58.1 (2.29)	58.9 (2.32)	46.0 (1.81)	68.9 (2.71)	51.7 (2.04)	84.3 (3.32)	93.9 (3.70)	80.9 (3.19)	788.0 (31.02)
Source: [142]

Near-real-time weather information can be retrieved from Berkhamsted Weather Station on the Met Office Weather Observation Website

Governance

town council elections the political composition of the council was Conservative 12; Liberal Democrat 3.^[144]

Until the 1997 general election, Berkhamsted was, with Hemel Hempstead, part of the former West Hertfordshire parliamentary constituency. The town is now in the

General Election 2015 he had a majority of over 23,000.^[145] The constituency seat forms a thin strip along the southwest border of Hertfordshire, from South Oxhey (near Watford) in the south, through interspersed settlements including Chipperfield, Chorleywood, Croxley Green, Moor Park and Rickmansworth to Tring in the north.^[146]

Demography

Homes

The Hertfordshire Local Information System (HertsLIS) website (based on data from the Office for National Statistics and other UK government departments) has the following data regarding the 7,363 households in Berkhamsted in 2011. Regarding housing tenure, in Berkhamsted 72% of homes were owner occupied (34% owned outright and 38% owned with a mortgage) compared to 63% for England. In Berkhamsted 26.5% of homes were rented (13% each for social rented and private rented) compared to a national figure of 34.5%. In 2011, 77 percent of household spaces in Berkhamsted were houses or bungalows and 23 percent were flats or maisonettes. 30% of Houses and Bungalows were detached compared to 22% nationally: 47% of dwellings are semi-detached or terraced, compared to 55% nationally. In third quarter of 2017 average houses and flats prices in Berkhamsted were £724,900, compared to £474,400 for Hertfordshire, and £304,500 for England (detached houses were £1,070,600 compared to £424,400 nationally).^[147]

Employment and economic wellbeing

In mid-2016, the Office for National Statistics estimated the working age population (males and females aged 16 to 64) of Berkhamsted as 11,400, (62% of the town's population). People from Berkhamsted were employed as follows: 17.5 percent worked as managers, directors and senior officials; 27.5 percent professional occupations and 8.5 percent in associate professional and technical occupations; 10 percent were employed in administrative and secretarial occupations; 7 percent in skilled trades; 6 percent Caring, leisure and other service occupations; 5 percent were in sales and customer service occupations; 3 percent were in process, plant and machine operatives; and 5.5 percent worked in elementary occupations.^[148]

According to HertsLIS in 2011, 76 percent of Berkhamsted residents between the ages of 16 and 74 were employed (including: full-time, 43 percent; part-time, 13 percent; self-employed, 14 percent) and 24 percent were economically inactive (including: retired, 13 percent; long term sick/disabled, 2 percent).^[148] 18% of Berkhamsted Households included a person with a long-term health problem or disability, while nationally this figure is 41%. In April 2013, the benefit unemployed rate in Berkhamsted's parliamentary constituency was 1.7 percent, compared to 7.8 percent for the UK.^[149]

Commuting

Of the employed residents living in both Berkhamsted and Tring, 35 percent live and work in the towns, whilst 65 percent commute to workplaces out of the towns, particularly to London.^[150] Of the 7,100 people who work in Berkhamsted, 58 percent commute to Berkhamsted to work. In 2011, 9.5 percent of Berkhamsted residents (aged 16 to 74 in employment) worked mainly at or from home; 52 percent drove to work by car (2.5 as a passenger in a car); 22.34% travelled by public transport and 12.73% cycled or walked to work. In 2011, during an average commute to work, was 21 kilometres.^[148]

Diversity

Looking at broad ethnic heritage in 2011, HertsLIS data found that 90 percent of residents were described as white British. Of the remainder, 1 percent were Irish, 4 percent were of other white origin, 1.7 percent were described as mixed or multiple ethnic, 2.1 percent were Asian or Asian British, 0.3 percent were black African/Caribbean or black British and 0.3 percent were Arab or any other ethnic group. Regarding religious beliefs in 2011, of the 92 percent of residents who stated a religious preference, 30 percent were non-religious and 59 percent were Christian; other faiths included 0.4 percent Buddhist, 0.5 percent Jewish, 0.5 percent Muslim and 0.1 percent Sikh.^[148]

Relationships and education

In 2011 the marital and civil partnership status of residents aged 16 and over were as follows 28 percent single, 56 percent married, 0.1 percent in a registered same-sex civil partnership, 2 percent separated, 8 percent divorced or legally dissolved same-sex civil partnership and 6 percent widowed or surviving partner from a same-sex civil partnership. Looking at the

qualifications table, 12 percent of residents had no qualifications, 10 percent reached level 1, 13 percent achieved level 2, 2 percent had apprenticeship qualifications, 10 percent were level 3 and 49 percent achieved level 4 or above.^[148]

Transport

strip map

showing Berkhamsted on the route of the Sparrows Herne turnpike. From Bowles's Post Chaise Companion of 1782

Road

The former Roman-engineered

King Louis XVIII of France carried on a romance with Polly Page, the innkeeper's daughter).^[151][152] The town's historic high street is now the A4251. A bypass, originally proposed in the 1930s, was opened in 1993, and the main A41 road now passes southwest of Berkhamsted. A study of car ownership in Berkhamsted, Northchurch and Tring found that 43%–45% of households had two or more cars (compared to the county average of 40% and the national average of 29%). Conversely, the proportion of households who did not own a car was 14%–20% (about 7% lower than the national average).^[153] A number of local bus routes pass through Berkhamsted town centre, providing links to Hemel Hempstead, Luton, Watford and Whipsnade Zoo. Services include the 30, 31, 62, 207, 500 (Aylesbury and Watford), 501, 502 and 532. Buses are managed by Hertfordshire County Council's Intalink transport service.^[154][155]

Canal

In 1798, the Grand Junction Canal (built by William Jessop) from the River Thames at Brentford to Berkhamsted was completed; it was extended to Birmingham in 1805.^[157] Castle Wharf (The Port of Berkhamsted), on the south side of the canal between Ravens Lane and Castle Street, was the centre of the town's canal trade, navigation and boat building activities. It was a hub of the country's inland water transport system, linking the ports and industrial centres of the country. Main activities included the transport of coal, grain, building materials and manure. Timber yards, boating wharves, breweries, boat building and chemical works flourished as a result of the canal, with over 700 workers employed locally. It is still known as the "Port of Berkhamsted". Separately, Francis Egerton, 3rd Duke of Bridgewater (the "Canal Duke" and "father of the inland waterway system"), lived in Ashridge, near Berkhamsted. The canal became part of the Grand Union Canal in 1929. Once an important trade artery, today the Grand Union Canal, Canal Fields and river provide an open space, recreational opportunities, and a wildlife corridor running east–west through the centre of the town.

Railway

Main article: Berkhamsted railway station

The next stage in the town's transport history occurred in 1834 when, after opposition from

Southern train company also runs an hourly service directly to South Croydon via Clapham Junction. Proposals to extend the new Crossrail service out of London through Berkhamsted to Milton Keynes Central were considered by the Department for Transport in 2014,^[161][162] but in 2016 it was announced that the scheme had been cancelled due to "poor overall value for money to the taxpayer".^[163]

Economy and commerce

In 1986, farming, service and light industry were characteristic local occupations.

The British Film Institute

(BFI) is an important local employer to the south of Berkhamsted.

In November 2014, the Academy of Urbanism's Urbanism Awards found Berkhamsted's High Street to be a "vibrant" and "bustling" road, that "worked extremely well as a quality high street."

Transition Town community.^[138]

Education

State schools

In the 1970s, the town adopted a three-tier state school education system, reverting to the two-tier system of primary and secondary schools in 2013. The primary stage is provided by Bridgewater, Greenway, St Thomas More, Swing Gate, Thomas Coram, Victoria (founded in 1838) and Westfield.

Royal Charter "for the Maintenance and Education of Exposed and Deserted Children" in 1739. Three years later in 1742 he established the Foundling Hospital at Lamb’s Conduit Fields in Bloomsbury, London. It was the first children's charity in the country and the precedent for incorporated associational charities everywhere.^[168] The school moved to its purpose built location in Berkhamsted in 1935. The residential home side at Berkhamsted closed following the Children Act 1948, when family centered care replaced institutional care. In 1951 Hertfordshire County Council took over running the school.^{[169][170][171]} The large school contains stained glass windows, especially around the chapel, a staircase and many monuments from the original London hospital. The school's chapel formerly housed an organ donated by George Frideric Handel.^[169] The school was used a backdrop to the 2007 comedy film, Son of Rambow.

Independent schools

Royal Charter for "one chauntry perpetual and schools for boys not exceeding 144 to be called Dean Incent’s Free School in Berkhamstedde".^[175]

Incent died

Graham Greene.^[176] The schools oldest building the Old Hall was built in 1544 and is Grade I listed, records of the time state that Incent "builded with all speed a fair schoole lartge and great all of brick very sumptuously", and "when ye said school was thus finished, ye Deane sent for ye cheafe men of ye towne into ye school where he kneeling gave thanks to Almighty God".^[177] In 1988 the school merged with Berkhamsted School for Girls (another large independent private school in the town), which had been founded in 1888.^{[178][68][69]}

The school has 1,500 fee paying pupils, aged 3 to 18.

Egerton Rothesay School, an independent school founded in 1922, has 150 pupils between the ages of 5 and 19.^[179]

Business school

think-tank and a training centre and had Arthur Bryant as its educational adviser.^[182]

In 2015 Ashridge merged with

online learning. Ashridge is the only UK specialist business school with degree awarding powers, giving it the equivalent status to a university

in awarding its degrees.

Religious sites

The oldest extant church locally is St Mary's in the adjacent village of Northchurch. Between 1087 and 1104, there is reference to a chaplain called Godfrey and to a chapel of St James with parochial status within St Mary's Berkhamsted's parish. The chapel situated close to St Johns, located close to St John's Lane, was the base for a small community of monks, the Brotherhood of St John the Baptist, in the 11th and 12th centuries.^{[184][185][Notes 9]}

During

General Fairfax as a military prison to hold soldiers captured from the Siege of Colchester.^[187] The poet William Cowper was christened in St Peter's,^[102] where his father John Cowper was rector.^[188]

The parish church of St Peter, is one of the largest churches in Hertfordshire, stands on the high street.

Big Lottery Fund from the National Lottery (United Kingdom) - as one of 12 sites across the country sharing £32m. The grant is to restored heritage features and create a new green community space in the town.^[191][192]

The town has a strong Non-conformist tradition, in 1672 a survey found that there were 400 Anglian conformists and 150 Non-conformists in Berkhamsted, when such beliefs could bring you foul of the law. The

Roman Catholic tradition from the 17th to 20th century appears to be limited, General de Gaulle worshiped at their original Church of the Sacred Heart in Park View Road, they moved to a larger modern church in 1980 on Park Street.^[196]

Culture and leisure

Literary connections

Geoffrey Chaucer was clerk of works at Berkhamsted Castle from 1389 and based his Doctor of Phisick in The Canterbury Tales on John of Gaddesden, who lived in nearby Little Gaddesden. William Cowper was born in Berkhamsted Rectory in 1731. Although he moved away when still a boy, there are frequent references to the town in his poems and letters. In the Victorian era, Cowper became a cult figure and Berkhamsted was a place of pilgrimage for his devotees. Maria Edgeworth, a prolific Anglo-Irish writer of adults' and children's literature who was a significant figure in the evolution of the novel in Europe, lived in Berkhamsted as a child in the 18th century.^[25] Between 1904 and 1907, the Llewelyn Davies boys were the inspiration for the author and playwright J. M. Barrie's Peter Pan.^[197] A little later, novelist Graham Greene was born in Berkhamsted and educated at Berkhamsted School, alongside literary contemporaries Claud Cockburn, Peter Quennell, Humphrey Trevelyan and Cecil Parrott.^[198] Children's authors H. E. Todd and Hilda van Stockum both lived in Berkhamsted. The comic character Ed Reardon from Radio 4's semi-naturalistic radio drama Ed Reardon's Week resides in Berkhamsted.

Cinema

The Rex Cinema is regarded by some, including the

cinema. The cinema was designed by architect David Evelyn Nye for the Shipman and King circuit.^[202] Closed in 1988, the cinema was extensively restored in 2004 and has become a thriving independent local cinema.^[203] The Rex frequently has sold-out houses for evening showings, the cinema is a "movie palace with all the original art deco trimmings" (its interior features decorations of sea waves and shells). Inside is a step "back into the golden age of film" when going to the movies was an experience; the cinema features luxurious seating and two licensed bars. It is managed by its owner James Hannaway, who introduces films. Sometimes there is a question and answer session with directors and actors involved in the films; these sessions have included Dame Judi Dench, Charles Dance, Mike Leigh and Terry Jones.^[204]

Prior to the cinema's construction, an Elizabethan mansion, Egerton House, had occupied the site at the east end of the high street for 350 years. The house was occupied briefly (1904–07) by Arthur and Sylvia Llewelyn Davies, whose children were J. M. Barrie's inspiration for Peter Pan.^[197]

British Film Institute National Archive at King's Hill

Rarely open to the public, the BFI National Archive's "The J. Paul Getty, Jr. Conservation Centre" in Berkhamsted is the archive of the British Film Institute.^[205] With over 275,000 feature, non-fiction and short films (dating from 1894) and 210,000 television programmes, it is one of the largest film archives in the world. Two of the archive's collections were added to the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) UK Memory of the World Register, in 2011.^[206] The archive collects, preserves, restores and shares the films and television programmes which have shaped and recorded British life and times since the development of motion picture film in the late 19th century. The majority of the collection is British-originated material, but the archive also features internationally significant holdings from around the world and films that feature key British actors and the work of British directors.

Sport

The Berkhamsted Bowmen are the oldest archery club in England.^[198] There is a sports centre off Douglas Gardens, managed by the Dacorum Sports Trust (Sportspace). The facilities comprise a large indoor multi-purpose sports hall, squash courts, swimming pool and outdoor all-weather pitch. This facility is complemented by dual use of the leisure facilities of Ashlyns School and Berkhamsted Collegiate School. A deficit in leisure space is compounded by a high level of sports participation locally and consequent heavy use of outdoor sports pitches. Founded in 1875 Berkhamsted Cricket Club competes in the Herts League and in 2015 it ran twenty-five separate teams. The nine Berkhamsted and Hemel Hempstead Hockey Club teams are based just outside the town at the Cow Roast, playing their matches at Tring School. There are two Bowls clubs, Berkhamsted and Kitcheners.^[207] Berkhamsted and the surrounding area has a variety of road cycling and mountain biking routes, including traffic-free off-road routes in Ashridge Estate.^[208] The town was visited by the Tour of Britain in 2014.^[209]

The town's football club,

FA Women's Super League Division 2. Founded in 1996, Berkhamsted Raiders C.F.C. football club was recognised as the FA Charter Standard Community Club of the Year at the English Football Association Community Awards in 2014 and awarded the UEFA Grassroots Silver Award in 2015 for their work across the local community. The club in 2015 had more than 800 affiliated players, including 90 girls and 691 boys in the youth set-up, 29 ladies, 20 seniors and 20 veterans: who are spread across 65 teams at different levels.^[210][211]

The club is based at the Berkhamsted Community Cricket and Sports Club, Kitcheners Field, Castle Hill, Berkhamsted.

Sites of interest

The majority of Berkhamsted's eighty-five listed or scheduled historical sites are on in the high street and the medieval core of the town (a significant number of them contain timber frames). Four are scheduled, one is Grade I, seven are Grade II*, the remaining 75 are Grade II.^[212][213] In addition to the sites noted in the article above (such as the castle and schools) the following structures and locations are of interest:

• jeweller or goldsmith's shop with a workshop behind, it is now believed to have been a jettied service wing to a larger aisled hall house, which has since disappeared.^[23] It represents an early example of transition in carpentry technology, from the use of passing braces to crown posts. The 13th century origin of the structure was discovered by chance in 2000 by builders who had begun work on what appeared to be a Victorian property. The shop was, from 1869, Figg's the Chemists; post-restoration (with expertise and a £250,000 grant from English Heritage), the shop is currently used as an estate agency. Dr Simon Thurley, Chief Executive of English Heritage, said "This is an amazing discovery. It gives an extraordinary insight into how Berkhamsted High Street would have looked in medieval times."^[215]
• 125 High Street, a house and shop opposite St Peter's Church, is a timber-framed building with a wing that is one bay of a 14th-century open hall. The layout suggests that it once had a second bay of similar size – a length of 26 feet (8 m) in all. This was an unusually large house; its size and central position suggests a manor house or other high status house, possibly supporting the castle. The building underwent extensive alterations in the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries.[216]
• The Swan, 139 High Street, contains the remains of a medieval open hall. Parts of the roof date from the 14th century, and the street range was extended and a chimney stack added c. 1500.^[23]
• Castle Street began life as the medieval lane from the town's high street to the drawbridge of the royal castle. The other end of the lane was the parish church of St Peters. In the 16th century next to the church, Berkhamsted school was founded, while in the 17th century there were seven public houses amongst the street's trade outlets.^[217]
• To the northwest of Berkhamsted stand the ruins of Marlin's Chapel, a 13th-century chapel standing next to a medieval fortified farm. The walls and moat surrounding the modern farm still remain and are reputed to be haunted.^[119]

• 129 High Street is the Grade II* listed house known as Dean Incent's House. (John Incent, Dean of St Paul's, founded Berkhamsted School.) A 15th century half-timbered house, the interior has original exposed timber framing and several Tudor wall paintings. The building incorporates part of an even older structure and was used as public meeting place before the Court House was built. The house is not normally open to the public.^[152][218]
• The Court House, next to the church, dates from the 16th century, and is believed to lie on the site of the medieval court where the Portmote ^{[Notes 10]} or Borough Court was held.^[23]
• Sayer's Almshouses, were the legacy of John Sayer, chief cook to Charles II, at 235–241 High Street, comprise a single-storey row of
  almshouses built in 1684.^[222]
• The Bourne School, at 222 High Street, was the legacy by Thomas Bourne (1656–1729) (Master of the Company of Framework Knitters) to build a charity school in Berkhamsted for 20 boys and 10 girls. The front was rebuilt in 1854 in Jacobean-style red brick; it is not clear if any part of the building predates 1854. In 1875, the pupils were transferred to the National School and the funds used for scholarships.^[223]
• The site now occupied by the Pennyfarthing Hotel dates from the 16th century, having been a monastic building used as accommodation for religious guests passing through Berkhamsted or going to the monastery at Ashridge.
• The
  Dacorum Borough Council (based in Hemel Hempstead), there were plans to demolish the building, these plans werer stopped by a ten-year citizens' campaign during the 1970s and 1980s, which eventually ended at the High Court.^[224]

• The Berkhamsted
  Raven, the trickster and creator deity; he sits on the head of Sunman, who has outstretched arms representing the rays of the sun and wears a copper (a type of ceremonial shield); Sunman stands on the fearsome witch-spirit Dzunukwa; at the base is the two-headed warrior sea serpent, Sisiutl, who has up-stretched wings.^[227]
• Frithsden Beeches Wood.^[229] The climbable monument to Francis Egerton, 3rd Duke of Bridgewater
  , a tall Doric column with urn (a Grade II* listed building), stands in a grove within Ashridge.

Associations with the town

Main article: List of people from Berkhamsted

Twin towns

Berkhamsted is

twinned

with:

• Beaune, Burgundy, France^[230]
• Neu Isenburg
  , Hesse, Germany (as part of Dacorum)

The town also has an informal relationship with

U.S. bicentennial

, which Berkhamsted Town Council now uses in meetings.

Footnotes

1. ^ Æthelgifu's will is one of only seventeen existing wills in Old English, and it is the most extensive of them. It gives much more detail on slave and land ownership in this period than any other document, and shows that a woman could have considerable wealth. The will is written on vellum in a minuscule hand, and the original still exists; an American consortium bought it in 1969, and it is now in New Jersey.^[37]
2. ^ This left a detached portion of the St Mary's parish, which later became the village of Bourne End, southeast of the Berkhamsted.
3. Sir Henry Chauncy, believed that the town was once an important Mercian settlement.^[47] Two medieval ditches have been excavated in recent years, both of which were discovered on Bridgewater Road, north of the river, that may have been part of a ditch that surrounded the early medieval town.^[23]
4. ^ Edmer Ator was evidently a senior landholding noble who had held 36 places over 7 counties prior to the Norman conquest, as recorded in the Domesday Book.^[52]
5. Danish settlers in the area. A monk writing about this area described it as "the Hundred of the Danes", using the word Daneis. The word was later incorrectly transcribed as "Danicorum" and subsequently shortened to "Dacorum".^[58]
6. ^ The patronymic is sometimes rendered "Fitz Piers", since he was the son of Piers de Lutegareshale, forester of Ludgershal.
7. Richard, 1st Earl of Cornwall, was elected King of Germany, or Holy Roman Emperor
   , in 1256.
8. ^ The market had been in existence since at least 1086. It was originally held on a Sunday, but by this charter it was changed to Monday, as the rector of the new St Peter's Church objected to the noise. The market is now held on a Saturday.
9. St James the Greater rather than on Petertide, which suggests that an older parish church before St Peter's was built in the 13th century.^[43]
10. ^ Also referred to as portmanmoot or portmoot. The name had Anglo-Saxon origins; the court had aspects both of court and of council meeting.^{[219][220][221]}

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Sources

• Birtchnell, Percy (1988). Short History of Berkhamsted. Berkhamsted: Book Stack.
  ISBN 978-187137200-7. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help
  )

(see also Birtchnell, Percy (1975) Bygone Berkhamsted. Luton: White Crescent Press

ISBN 0-900804-13-0

)

• Brown, Reginald Allen (1989). Castles from the Air. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press.
  ISBN 978-052132932-3. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help
  )
• Cobb, John Wolstenholme (1883). Two Lectures on the History and Antiquities of Berkhamsted (2nd ed.). London, UK: Nichols and Sons.
  OCLC 693003587. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help
  )
• Hastie, Scot (1996). A Hertfordshire Valley. Kings Langley, UK: Alpine Press.
  ISBN 0-952863103. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help
  )
• Hastie, Scot (1999). Berkhamsted, an Illustrated History. Kings Langley, UK: Alpine Press.
  ISBN 0-9528631-1-1. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help
  )
• Liddiard, Robert (2005). Castles in Context: Power, Symbolism and Landscape, 1066 to 1500. Macclesfield, UK: Windgather Press.
  ISBN 978-095455752-2. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help
  )
• Mackenzie, James Dixon (1896). Castles of England: Their Story and Structure. Vol. 1. New York: Macmillan.
  OCLC 12964492. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help
  )
• Page, William, ed. (1908). The Victoria History of the County of Hertfordshire: Volume 2. London: Constable.
  OCLC 59519149. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help
  )
• Pettifer, Adrian (1995). English Castles: a Guide by Counties. Woodbridge, UK: Boydell Press.
  ISBN 9780851156002. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help
  )
• Remfry, Paul (1998). Berkhamsted Castle. Dacorum Heritage Trust.
  ISBN 0-9510944-1-6. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help
  )
• Rowe, Anne (2007). "The Distribution of Parks in Hertfordshire: Landscape, Lordship and Woodland". In Liddiard, Robert (ed.). The Medieval Park: New Perspectives. Macclesfield, UK: Windgather Press. pp. 128–145.
  ISBN 978-1-9051-1916-5. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help
  )
• Sanecki, K.A. (1996). Ashridge – A Living History. Chichester, UK: Phillimore.
  ISBN 1-86077-020-7. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help
  )
• Sherwood, Jennifer (2008). "Influences on the Growth of Medieval and Early Modern Berkhamsted". In Wheeler, Michael (ed.). A County of Small Towns: the Development of Hertfordshire's Urban Landscape to 1800. Hatfied, UK: Hertfordshire Publications. pp. 224–248.
  ISBN 978-190531344-0. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help
  )
• Slater, T.R.; Goose, Nigel (2008). A county of small towns: the development of Hertfordshire's urban landscape to 1800. Hatfield, UK: University of Hertfordshire Press.
  ISBN 978-190531344-0. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help
  )
• Tearle, John (1998). The Berkhamsted Totem Pole. Lillydown House.
  ISBN 978-0952813118. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help
  )
• Thompson, Isobel; Bryant, Stewart (2005). Extensive Urban Surveys: Berkhamsted, Revision 2005 (PDF) (Report). Historic Environment Unit, Hertfordshire County Council. {{cite report}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)
• Whitelock, Dorothy (1968). The Will of Æthelgifu. Oxford: Roxburghe Club, Oxford. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)
• Williamson, Tom (2010). The Origins of Hertfordshire. Hatfied, UK: Hertfordshire Publications.
  ISBN 978-190531395-2. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help
  )

External links

Wikivoyage has a travel guide for Berkhamsted.

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Berkhamsted.

New International Encyclopedia article "Great Berkhampstead

".

• Berkhamsted Town Council
• Berkhamsted Local History & Museum Society
• The above society's Collection of Old Photographs of Berkhamsted and its citizens
• Dacorum Heritage Trust