Traditional Thai clothing

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Thai traditional costumes, Bangkok National Museum

Traditional Thai clothing (

khian hua. In formal occasions, people may choose to wear a so-called formal Thai national costume
.

History

See also: History of Thai clothing
Portrait of Siamese State Official, one of portrait paintings collection in The Portraits of Periodical Offering of Imperial Qing by Xie Sui, 18th century painting in the National Palace Museum in Taipei.
chong kraben and a traditional Thai house

In the 7th century, Thai clothing was influenced by the

Ayutthaya era from 1351 to 1767, shaping the costumes of the era.[2] Among men, the tradition of wearing a loincloth over pants emerged during this period and was influenced by Khmer clothing.[3]

Historically, both Thai males and females dressed themselves with a loincloth wrap called

chong kraben,[4]: Note 10  which was adopted from Cambodia.[5] Men wore their chong kraben to cover the waist to halfway down the thigh, whilst women wore their chong kraben down the waist to well below the knee.[6] Members of the nobility wore silk robes called khrui and a tall, pointed hat called lomphok in attendance of royal affairs. Bare chests and bare feet were accepted as part of the Thai formal dress code, and are observed in murals, illustrated manuscripts, and early photographs up to the middle–1800s.[6] Prior to the 20th century, the primary markers that distinguished class in Thai clothing were the use of cotton and silk cloths with printed or woven motifs, but both commoners and royals alike wore wrapped, not stitched clothing.[7]

Prior to the 1700s, Thai men and women both kept their hair long. However, following the

crew-cut short style, which remained the national hairstyle until the 1900s.[8]

From the 1860s onward, Thai royals "selectively adopted Victorian corporeal and sartorial etiquette to fashion modern personas that were publicized domestically and internationally by means of mechanically reproduced images."[7] Stitched clothing, including court attire and ceremonial uniforms, were invented during the reign of King Chulalongkorn.[7] Western forms of dress became popular among urbanites in Bangkok during this period.[7] During the early–1900s, King Chulalongkorn encouraged Thai women to wear long hair instead of traditional short hair which later became a trend during the reign of King Vajiravudh along with wearing pha sin (ผ้าซิ่น), a tubular skirt, instead of the chong kraben (โจงกระเบน), a cloth wrap.[9]

On 15 January 1941,

Plaek Pibulsonggram issued a Thai cultural mandate to modernize and Westernize Thai dress, by deeming the long-practiced customs of wearing underpants, wearing no shirt, or wearing a wraparound cloth, as forms of inappropriate public attire.[10]

Traditional costumes

Chong kraben

Main article: Sompot Chong Kben

Chong kraben (Thai: โจงกระเบน Thai pronunciation: [tɕoːŋ.kra.beːn]) is a lower-body, wraparound cloth adopted from Cambodia.[5] The traditional dress is similar to the dhoti of South Asia. The chong kraben resembles pants more than skirts. It is a rectangular piece of cloth measuring three meters long and one meter wide. It is worn by wrapping around the waist, stretching it away from the body, twisting the ends together then pulling the twisted fabric between the legs and tucking it in the back of the waist.

Pha nung

Main article:
pha nung
Thai women wearing pha sin dress for Rocket Festival, Roi Et

The pha nung (Thai: ผ้านุ่ง), also known as pha sin (Thai: ผ้าซิ่น) or pha thung (Thai: ผ้าถุง), is a long fabric worn around the waist that resembles a long skirt.[11] [12]

Thai girls wearing northern Thai pha sin

Sabai

Main article:
Sabai
Thai women wearing sabai, Jim Thompson House

Sabai (

Plaek Pibulsonggram
during Thailand's clothing reform.

Suea pat

Main article: Suea pat

Suea pat (Thai: เสื้อปัด Thai pronunciation: [sɯ̂a.pàt]) is a long-sleeved shirt with no buttons. It is worn by wrapping the right side of the front panel of the shirt over the left side of the front panel, and the two panels are tied together via strings. Suea pats are typically worn by northern Thai women

Raj pattern

Main article: Raj pattern
chong kraben
.

Raj pattern refers either to a

national costume
.

Pha khao ma

Pha khao ma (Thai: ผ้าขาวม้า Thai pronunciation: [pʰâː kʰǎw máː])) is a versatile plaid fabric woven for centuries in Thailand. It serves numerous purposes, including being worn as a waistband by Thai men, used as a handkerchief, fan, or head covering to protect against the sun, and even used as a makeshift cradle or to carry goods. The cloth's practicality and sustainability have attracted the attention of designers in the fashion and interior design industries.[15] The word Khao ma is derived from the Persian word Kamarband, meaning waistband or belt.[16] This cloth has become an omnipresent item in Thai society. Its recognition as a national cultural heritage in Thailand and nomination for UNESCO World Heritage status in 2027.[17]

Tabengman

Tabengman (

Disney film Raya and the Last Dragon, which is inspired by traditional Southeast Asian cloth including Tabengman.[20]

Banong

Banong (

Java Island, Indonesia. While Banong is popular among Thai Muslims in the southern border provinces, it is also worn by Thai Buddhists and Thai Chinese in the region.[22][23]

Formal costume

Main article: Formal Thai national costume
This is an example of the formal Thai national costume.

The formal Thai costume, ชุดไทยพระราชนิยม (

national costume
at formal occasions. Although described and intended for use as national costume, it is of relatively modern origins, having been conceived in the second half of the 20th century.

See also

References

  1. ^ "Everything You Need to Know About Traditional Thai Dresses". Amazing Thailand. During the 7th century, fashion in Thailand was influenced by the Khmer, with clothing styles such as shorter dresses.
  2. ^ Varasarin, Uraisi (1984). Les éléments khmers dans la formation de la langue siamoise (in French). p. 26. Nous apercevons aussi des éléments khmers dans les costumes de la période d'Ayudhyã et dans les motifs décoratifs de l'art siamois.
  3. ^ "Ayutthaya's Era Apparel". Thai style studio. They usually wore short pants that went dow to the shins, on top of the pants was a loincloth hiked up to their hips – which was influenced by Khmer clothing style.
  4. doi:10.1353/sen.2019.0003
    . Retrieved 18 February 2020.
  5. ^ a b "Everything You Need to Know About Traditional Thai Dresses". Amazing Thailand. Men and women alike wear Chong Kben, a lower-body silk wrap-around garment adopted from Cambodia.
  6. ^
    doi:10.1163/26659077-01004003
    .
  7. ^
    ISBN 9781845193997
    .
  8. ^ Jotisalikorn, Chami (2013). Thailand's Luxury Spas: Pampering Yourself in Paradise. Tuttle Publishing. p. 183.
  9. ^ Saruta (10 September 2002). "Women's Status in Thai Society". Thaiways Magazine. Archived from the original on 31 October 2016. Retrieved 7 November 2016.
  10. ^ The Royal Gazette, Vol. 58, Page 113. January 21, B.E. 2484 (C.E. 1941). Retrieved on June 4, 2010.
  11. ^ James C. Ingram. Economic change in Thailand 1850-1970. Stanford University Press, 1971, p. 10 By
  12. ^ Thepthong, Phitsanu (17 February 2020). "Pushing 'phasin' to the fore". Bangkok Post. Retrieved 17 February 2020.
  13. ^ "สไบ - Thai / English dictionary meaning - สไบ ภาษาอังกฤษ แปล ความหมาย". www.thai2english.com. Retrieved 2020-03-09.
  14. ^ Varasarin, Uraisi (1984). Les éléments khmers dans la formation de la langue siamoise (in French). p. 113.
  15. ^ Multi-Purpose of Thai Loincloth "Pha-Khao-Ma" (PDF), October 31, 2017
  16. ^ Pha Khao Ma, the Multi-Purpose Loincloth, December 22, 2015
  17. ^ Pha Khao Ma: The checkered cloth woven into Thai culture, March 10, 2023
  18. ^ Saharat Techanubal (2018), THAILAND FASHION CENTER (PDF) (in Thai), p. 14
  19. ^ "นิโคลีน" นุ่งโจงห่มตะเบงมาน โชว์ความฮึกเหิมก่อนบินประกวด "มิสเวิลด์ 2018" (in Thai), November 2, 2018
  20. ^ The Rise of Ethnic Minorities in Films, August 15, 2022
  21. ^ Banong บานง อัตลักษณ์ความเป็นพื้นถิ่นในวิถีมลายูสู่วิถีแบรนด์บานงจังหวัดยะลา (in Thai), September 2, 2022
  22. ^ "บานง" เครื่องแต่งกายของสตรีไทยมุสลิมชายแดนใต้ (in Thai), retrieved March 30, 2023
  23. ^ การแต่งกายสตรีภาคใต้ชายแดน บานง (PDF) (in Thai), retrieved March 30, 2023

Further reading

  • Conway, Susan, and Mūnnithi Čhēm ʻĒt Dapbœ̄nyū Thō̜msan. Power dressing: Lanna Shan Siam 19th century court dress. Bangkok: James H.W. Thompson Foundation, 2003.
  • Conway, Susan. Thai Textiles. London: British Museum Press, 1992.
  • Lu, Sylvia. Handwoven Textiles of South-East Asia. Singapore: Oxford University Press, 1988.
  • Meanmas, Chavalit. Costumes in ASEAN. Thailand: The National ASEAN Committee on Culture and Information of Thailand, 2000.
  • Wee, C. J. Wan. Local cultures and the "new Asia": The State, Culture, and Capitalism in Southeast Asia. Singapore: Institute of Southeast Asian Studies, 2002.


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