Hanbok
Material | Diverse |
---|---|
Place of origin | Korea |
Introduced | At least since Goguryeo period |
Hanbok | |||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
North Korean name | |||||||
Chosŏn'gŭl | 조선옷 | ||||||
Hancha | 朝鮮옷 | ||||||
| |||||||
South Korean name | |||||||
Hangul | 한복 | ||||||
Hanja | 韓服 | ||||||
|
The hanbok (
Koreans have worn hanbok since antiquity. The earliest visual depictions of hanbok can be traced back to the Three Kingdoms of Korea period (57 BC to 668 AD) with roots in the Proto-Koreanic people of what is now northern Korea and Manchuria. The clothes are also depicted on tomb murals from the Goguryeo period (4th to 6th century AD), with the basic structure of the hanbok established since at latest this period.[4] The ancient hanbok consisted of a jeogori (top), baji (pants), chima (skirt), and the po (coat). The basic structure of hanbok was designed to facilitate the ease of movement and integrated many motifs of Mu-ism.[5]
For thousands of years, the hanbok most people wore was pure white with no ornamentation. More ornate hanbok was typically reserved for special occasions such as weddings. For some periods, commoners (seomin) were even forbidden from wearing colorful hanbok regularly.[6]: 104 [7][8] However, in other periods, commoners were not allowed to wear white, including during the Japanese occupation of Korea.
Modern hanbok are typically patterned after the hanbok worn in the Joseon dynasty,[5] especially those worn by the nobility and royalty.[6]: 104 [7] There is some regional variation in hanbok design between South Korea, North Korea, and Koreans in China as a result of the relative isolation from each other that these groups experienced in the late 20th century.[9]: 246 [10] Despite this, the designs have somewhat converged again since the 1990s,[11] especially due to increased cultural and economic exchange after the Chinese economic reform.[12][9]: 246 Nowadays, contemporary Koreans wear hanbok for formal or semi-formal occasions and events such as weddings, festivals, celebrations, and ceremonies. In 1996, the South Korean Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism established Hanbok Day to encourage South Korean citizens to wear the hanbok.[13]
Etymology
The term hanbok appeared relatively recently and is connected with the historical context in which it appeared. The term emerged in the late Joseon period, when the Empire of Japan and other western countries competed to place Korea under their own sphere of influence. The first known use of the term is in an 1881 document from the late Joseon period entitled Chŏngch'iilgi (《정치일기》).[14][15] There, hanbok is used to distinguish Korean clothing from Japanese- and Western-style clothing. Hanbok was again used in an 1895 document to distinguish between Korean and Japanese clothing. These two usages predate the Korean Empire's popularization of the use of the hanja character Han (Hanja: 韓) to describe the Korean people.[citation needed]
Beginning in 1900, Korean newspapers used the hanja character Han in words that described Korean clothing, such as Han'gugŭibok (한국의복), Han'gugyebok (한국예복), and Taehannyŏbok (대한녀복). Hanbok was used in a 1905 newspaper article to describe the clothing of one of the
Since the division of Korea, South Korea has preferred the term hanbok while North Korea has preferred the term Chosŏn-ot. This reflects the general trend of South Korea's preference for the term Han and North Korea's for Chosŏn.[citation needed]
Components and design
For women, traditional hanbok consist of the jeogori (top) and the chima (skirt). The ensemble is often known as 'chima jeogori'. For men, hanbok consist of jeogori and loose-fitting baji (trousers).[16]
There are also a variety of vests, jackets and coats on top of this ensemble. For women, there are Jangsam, Dansam, Wonsam, and more. For men, some examples are durumagi, dopo, Danryeong-ui, Joong-chimak, Sochang-ui, Daechang-ui, etc.
Jeogori
The jeogori is the basic upper garment of the hanbok, worn by both men and women. It covers the arms and upper part of the wearer's body.[17][18]
There are various styles and types of jeogori varying in fabric, sewing technique, and shape.[19][20] The basic form of a jeogori consists of gil, git, dongjeong, goreum and sleeves. Gil (길) is the large section of the garment on both front and back sides, and git (깃) is a band of fabric that trims the collar. Dongjeong (동정) is a removable white collar placed over the end of the git and is generally squared off. The goreum (고름) are fabric-strings that tie the jeogori.[16] Women's jeogori may have kkeutdong (끝동), a different colored cuff placed at the end of the sleeves. Contemporary jeogori are presently designed with various lengths.
Goreum
Goreum refers to the strings that fasten clothes together.
Traditionally, there are many types of goreum. Fabric goreum were potentially used since
Danchu
Danchu (buttons) can also be used as an alternative to Goreum.
There are many types of danchu. One example is the Maedeup-danchu which were often used to keep symmetrical collars together in the front and used for practical uses on military uniforms and court uniforms. They have long horizontal lines on either side like Manchurian buttons or looked like a ball and lasso. Magoja-danchu are often big decorative metal, gems or stones buttons usually on Jokki (vest).[21]
Chima
Chima refers to "skirt", and is also called sang (裳) or gun (裙) in hanja.[22][17][19] The underskirt, or petticoat layer, is called sokchima. Chima-malgi is the waistband that trims the top of the chima. Chima were typically made from rectangular panels that were pleated or gathered into the chima-malgi (waistband).[23] This waistband also had goreum strings for fastening the skirt around the body.[24] From the Goguryeo to Joseon periods, chima have been striped, pleated, patchworked, and gored.[17]
Sokchima was largely made in a traditional way until the early 20th century when shoulder straps were added,[25] later developing into a sleeveless bodice or "reformed" petticoat called Eo-Kkeh-Heo-ri-Chima.[26] By the mid-20th century, some outer chima also gained a sleeveless bodice, which was then covered by the jeogori.[27][28]
Baji
Baji refers to the bottom part of the men's hanbok. It is the term for "trousers" in Korean. Compared to western style pants, baji does not fit tightly. The roomy design is aimed at making the clothing ideal for sitting on the floor and an ethnic style that dates back to the Three kingdoms period.[29] It functions as modern trousers do and the term baji is commonly used in Korea to refer to every kind of pants.
The baji-malgi is a waistband of the baji that has a long string of goreum.
Baji can be unlined trousers, leather trousers, silk pants, or cotton pants, depending on style of dress, sewing method, embroidery and so on.
Sokgot
Sokgot (속곳) is a collective noun for various types of traditional
Deot-ot
Deot-ot refers to a category of outer layers worn on top of the jeogori. There are many varieties other than the ones listed here.
Po
Po is a generic term referring to an outer robe or overcoat. There are two general types of po, the Korean type and the Chinese type.[32] The Korean type is a common style from the Three Kingdoms of Korea period, and it is used in the modern day.[17][32] The Chinese type consist of different types of po from mainland China.[32]
Durumagi is a type of po that was worn for protection against the cold. It has been widely worn as an outer robe over jeogori and baji. It is also called jumagui, juchaui, or juui.[22][17][33]
Banbi
Banbi (Chinese: 半臂 bàn bì, literally “half sleeve”) are a type Hanfu that originated from the Tang dynasty. Banbi refers to variety of short sleeved garments worn on top of inner garments, typically the Yuanling pao (Chinese: 圓領袍, “round collar robe”). Numerous outer half-sleeved Banbi can be seen in ancient Tang-era paintings, murals, and statues.[34]
Bigap
A sleeveless outer garment that was derived from Mongolian clothing worn during the Goryeo period.[35]
Baeja and kwaeja
Baeja refers to sleeveless outer garments that are worn on top of inner garments. It can be different lengths, short to long. Kwaeja is interchangeable with baeja, but kwaeja often refers to men's clothing.
Dapho
The dapho is a short-sleeved men's outer garment, often part of military uniform or official uniform.
Jokki
Jokki (
Magoja
Magoja does not have a git, the band of fabric trimming the collar.[16] The magoja for men sometimes has seop (Korean: 섶, overlapped column on the front) and is longer than women's magoja, with both sides open at the bottom. A magoja can be made of silk and often adorned with danchu which are usually made from amber. In men's magoja, buttons are attached to the right side, as opposed to the left as in women's magoja.[33]
It was introduced to Korea after Heungseon Daewongun, the father of King Gojong, returned from his political exile in Tianjin in 1887.[33][36] Long sleeved Magoja were derived from the magwae he wore in exile because of the cold climate there. Owing to its warmth and ease of wear, magoja became popular in Korea. It is also called "deot jeogori" (literally "an outer jeogori") or magwae.[33]
Children's hanbok
Traditionally, Foreign influences in design
The clothing of Korea's rulers and aristocrats after AD 7, was influenced by both foreign and
The cultural exchange was also bilateral and
Design and social position
The choice of hanbok can also signal social position. Bright colors, for example, were generally worn by children and girls, and muted hues by middle aged men and women. Unmarried women often wore yellow jeogori and red chima while matrons wore green and red, and women with sons donned navy. The upper classes wore a variety of colours. Contrastingly, commoners were required to wear white, but dressed in shades of pale pink, light green, gray and charcoal on special occasions.
The material of the hanbok also signaled status. The upper classes dressed in hanbok of closely woven ramie cloth or other high grade lightweight materials in warmer months and of plain and patterned silks throughout the remainder of the year. Commoners, in contrast, were restricted to cotton. Patterns were embroidered on hanbok to represent the wishes of the wearer. Peonies on a wedding dress, represented a wish for honor and wealth. Lotus flowers symbolized a hope for nobility, and bats and pomegranates showed the desire for children. Dragons, phoenixes, cranes and tigers were only for royalty and high-ranking officials.[55]
In addition, special variants were made for officials and shamans.[29]
History
Three Kingdoms of Korea
The earliest visual depictions of hanbok can be traced back to the
Goguryeo
Early forms of hanbok can be seen in the art of Goguryeo tomb murals in the same period from the 4th to 6th century AD.[59][60][65][68] Trousers, long jackets and twii (a sash-like belt) were worn by both men and women. Women wore skirts on top of their trousers. These basic structural and features of hanbok remain relatively unchanged to this day,[69] except for the length and the ways the jeogori opening was closed as over the years.[58] The jeogori opening was initially closed at the center front of the clothing, similar to a kaftan or closed to the left, before closing to the right side eventually became mainstream.[58] Since the sixth century AD, the closing of the jeogori at the right became a standard practice.[58] The length of the female jeogori also varied.[58] For example, women's jeogori seen in Goguryeo paintings of the late 5th century AD are depicted shorter in length than the man's jeogori.[58]
In early Goguryeo, the jeogori jackets were hip-length Kaftan tunics belted at the waist, and the po overcoats were full body-length Kaftan robes also belted at the waist. The pants were roomy, bearing close similarities to the pants found at Xiongnu burial site of Noin Ula.[citation needed] Some Goguryeo aristocrats wore roomy pants with tighter bindings at the ankle than others, which may have been status symbols along with length, cloth material, and colour. Women sometimes wore pants or otherwise wore pleated skirts. They sometimes wore pants underneath their skirts.[70]
Two types of hwa (shoes) were used, one covering only the foot, and the other covering up to the lower knee.[citation needed]
During this period, conical hat and its similar variants, sometimes adorned with long bird feathers,[71] were worn as headgear.[63] Bird feather ornaments, and bird and tree motifs of golden crowns, are thought to be symbolic connections to the sky.[citation needed]
The Goguryeo period royal attire was known as ochaebok.[58] The precursor of what is now known as the durumagi was introduced during the Goguryeo period from a long coat worn by Northern Chinese.[58] Originally the durumagi was worn by the upper class of Goguryeo for various ceremonies and rituals. It was later modified and worn by the general population.[58] In Muyong-chong murals of Goguryeo, there are male dancers in short jeogori with long flexible sleeves and female dancers wearing long coats with long flexible sleeves, all performing a dance. This type of long sleeves, similar to the Chinese water-sleeves, was passed down to Goryeo, Joseon, and present day Korean court dances and mu-ism rituals.[citation needed]
-
A Goguryeo man in a hunting attire from Capital Cities and Tombs of the Ancient Koguryo Kingdom, 5th century A.D., Jilin province, China.
-
Goguryeo servants wearing a Chima (skirt) and a long jeogori jacket, Goguryeo mural paintings in Jilin province, China, 5th-century AD.
North-South States period
In the
United Silla
The
-
Reconstruction of Silla king's and queen's attire
-
Gold waist belt used by royalty of Silla.
-
Women figures wearing Tang-dynasty style clothing, Silla.
Balhae
Balhae (698–926 AD) imported many various kinds of silk and cotton cloth from the Tang and diverse items from Japan including silk products and ramie. In exchange, Balhae would export fur and leather. The clothing culture of Balhae was heterogeneous; it was not only influenced by the Tang dynasty but also had inherited Goguryeo and indigenous Mohe people elements.[77] Early Balhae officials wore clothing appeared to continue the Three Kingdoms period tradition.[77] However, after Mun of Balhae, Balhae started to incorporate elements from the Tang dynasty, which include the putou and round collared gown for its official attire.[77] Male everyday clothing was similar to Gogoryeo clothing in terms of its headgear; i.e. hemp or conical hats with bird feathers; they also wore leather shoes and belts.[77] Women clothing appears to have adopted clothing from Tang dynasty (i.e. upper garment with long sleeves which is partially covered by a long skirts and shoes with curled tips to facilitate walking) but also wore the ungyeon (Yunjuan; a silk shawl) which started to appear after the demise of the Tang dynasty. The Ungyeon use is unique to late Balhae period and is distinctive from the shawl which was worn by the women of the Tang dynasty.[77] People from Balhae also wore fish-skin skirts and sea leopard leather top to keep warm.[77]
Goryeo dynasty
The Chinese style imported in the Northern-South period, however, did not affect hanbok still used by the commoners,[citation needed] In the following Goryeo period, use of the Chinese Tang dynasty style of wearing the skirt over the top started to fade, and the wearing of top over skirt was revived in the aristocrat class.[78][79] The way of wearing the top under the chima (Tang-style influenced fashion) did not disappear in Goryeo and continued to coexist with the indigenous style of wearing of the top over skirt throughout the entire Goryeo dynasty; this Tang-style influenced fashion continued to be worn until the early Joseon dynasty and only disappeared in the middle and late Joseon periods.[80]
In Goryeo Buddhist paintings, the clothing and headwear of royalty and nobles typically follows the clothing system of the Song dynasty.[81] The Goryeo painting "Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara", for example, is a Buddhist painting which was derived from both Chinese and Central Asian pictorial references.[82] On the other hand, the Chinese clothing worn in Yuan dynasty rarely appeared in paintings of Goryeo.[81] The Song dynasty system was later exclusively used by Goryeo Kings and Goryeo government officials after the period when Goryeo was under Mongol rule (1270 –1356).[83] However, even in the Buddhist painting of the late Goryeo, such as the Royal Palace Mandala, the courting ladies are depicted in Tang and Song dynasty-style court dress clothing, which is a different style from the Mongol Yuan court.[83]
-
Details of the Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara painting shows a group of nobles (possibly the donors) dress in court clothing, Goryeo painting.[84]
-
Chima-jeogori, a noblewoman's attire in Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara, Goryeo dynasty painting, 1323 AD.[83]
-
Court ladies wearing the Tang and Song dynasty style clothing, from the painting Royal Palace Mandala, late Goryeo
-
Portrait of Lady Jo ban (1341-1401 AD), Goryeo dynasty.
-
Portrait of Yi Je-hyeon (1287–1367 AD) of the Goryeo dynasty, wearing simui.
Hanbok went through significant changes under Mongol rule. After the Goryeo dynasty signed a peace treaty with the Mongol Empire in the 13th century, Mongolian princesses who married into the Korean royal house brought with them Mongolian fashion which began to prevail in both formal and private life.[45][62][85][86] A total of seven women from the Yuan imperial family were married to the kings of Goryeo.[52] The Yuan dynasty princess followed the Mongol lifestyle who was instructed to not abandon the Yuan traditions in regards to clothing and precedents.[45] As a consequence, the clothing of Yuan was worn in the Goryeo court and impacted the clothing worn by the upper-class families who visited the Goryeo court.[45] The Yuan clothing culture which influenced the upper classes and in some extent the general public is called Mongolpung.[52] King Chungryeol, who was political hostage to the Yuan dynasty and pro-Yuan, married the princess of Yuan announcing a royal edict to change into Mongol clothing.[45] After the fall of the Yuan dynasty, only Mongol clothing which were beneficial and suitable to Goryeo culture were maintained while the others disappeared.[45] As a result of the Mongol influence, the chima skirt was shortened, and jeogori was hiked up above the waist and tied at the chest with a long, wide ribbon, the goreumg (an extending ribbon tied on the right side) instead of the twii (i.e. the early sash-like belt) and the sleeves were curved slightly.[citation needed]
The cultural exchange was also bilateral and Goryeo had cultural influence on the Mongols court of the Yuan dynasty (1279–1368); one example is the influence of Goryeo women's hanbok on the attire of aristocrats, queens, and concubines of the Mongol court which occurred in the capital city, Khanbaliq.[87][88][89] However, this influence on the Mongol court clothing mainly occurred in the last years of the Yuan dynasty.[90][52] Throughout the Yuan dynasty, many people from Goryeo were forced to move into the Yuan; most of them were kongnyo (literally translated as "tribute women"), eunuchs, and war prisoners.[52][91] About 2000 women from Goryeo were sent to Yuan as kongnyo against their will.[52] Although women from Goryeo were considered very beautiful and good servants, most of them lived in unfortunate situations, marked by hard labour and sexual abuse.[52] However, this fate was not reserved to all of them; and one Goryeo woman became the last Empress of the Yuan dynasty; this was Empress Gi who was elevated as empress in 1365.[52] Most of the cultural influence that Goryeo exerted on the upper class of the Yuan dynasty occurred when Empress Gi came into power as empress and started to recruit many Goryeo women as court maids.[52] The influence of Goryeo on the Mongol court's clothing during the Yuan dynasty was dubbed as Goryeoyang ("the Goryeo style") and was rhapsodized by the Late Yuan dynasty poet, Zhang Xu, in the form of a short banbi (半臂) with square collar (方領).[52][51] However, so far, the modern interpretation on the appearance of Mongol royal women's clothing influenced by Goryeo is based on authors' suggestions.[51] According to Hyunhee Park: "Like the Mongolian style, it is possible that this Koryŏ style [Koryŏ yang] continued to influence some Chinese in the Ming period after the Ming dynasty replaced the Yuan dynasty, a topic to investigate further."[92]
Joseon dynasty
This section needs additional citations for verification. (September 2019) |
Neo-Confucianism as the ruling ideology in Joseon was established by the early
Women's everyday wear
Early Joseon continued the women's fashion for baggy, loose clothing, such as those seen on the mural from the tomb of Bak Ik (1332–1398);[95] the murals from the tomb of Bak Ik are valuable resources in Korean archaeology and art history for study of life and customs in the early Joseon.[96] The women of the upper classes, the monarchy and the court wore hanbok which was inspired by the Ming dynasty clothing while simultaneously maintaining a distinctive Korean-style look; in turn, the women of the lower class generally imitated the upper-class women clothing.[97] During the Joseon dynasty, the chima or skirt adopted fuller volume, while the jeogori or blouse took more tightened and shortened form, features quite distinct from the hanbok of previous centuries, when chima was rather slim and jeogori baggy and long, reaching well below waist level.
In the 15th century, neo-confucianism was very rooted in the social life in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries which lead to the strict regulation of clothing (including fabric use, colours of fabric, motifs, and ornaments) based on status.[98] Neo-confucianism also influence women's wearing of full-pleated chima, longer jeogori, and multiple layers clothing in order to never reveal skin.[99] In the 15th century, women started wearing of full-pleated chima which completely hide the body lines and longer-length jeogori.[100][99][101] The 15th century AD chima-jeogori style was undoubtedly a clothing style introduced from China consisting of longer jeogori and pleated chima.[99]
-
15th century lady
-
15th century lady
However, by the 16th century, the jeogori had shortened to the waist and appears to have become closer fitting, although not to the extremes of the bell-shaped silhouette of the 18th and 19th centuries.
-
Women's hanbok consists of chima skirt and jeogori shirt by Shin Yunbok
-
Full skirt and tight jeogori were considered fashionable. 18th century.
-
Soksokgot, similar to a petticoat, is shown under the woman's skirt. 18th century.
-
Dancing together with two swords
At the end of the 19th century, as mentioned above, Heungseon Daewongun introduced magoja, a Manchu-style jacket, which is often worn over jeogori to this day.
A clothes reformation movement aimed at lengthening jeogori experienced wide success in the early 20th century and has continued to influence the shaping of modern hanbok. Modern jeogori are longer, although still halfway between the waistline and the breasts. Heoritti are sometimes exposed for aesthetic reasons.
Men's everyday wear
Men's hanbok saw little change compared to women's hanbok. The form and design of jeogori and baji hardly changed.
In contrast, men's lengthy outwear, the equivalent of the modern overcoat, underwent a dramatic change. Before the late 19th century, yangban men almost always wore jungchimak when traveling. Jungchimak had very lengthy sleeves, and its lower part had splits on both sides and occasionally on the back so as to create a fluttering effect in motion. To some this was fashionable, but to others, namely stoic scholars, it was nothing but pure vanity. Daewon-gun successfully banned jungchimak as a part of his clothes reformation program and jungchimak eventually disappeared.
Durumagi, which was previously worn underneath jungchimak and was basically a house dress, replaced jungchimak as the formal outwear for yangban men. Durumagi differs from its predecessor in that it has tighter sleeves and does not have splits on either sides or back. It is also slightly shorter in length. Men's hanbok has remained relatively the same since the adoption of durumagi. In 1884, the Gapsin Dress Reform took place.[106] Under the 1884's decree of King Gojong, only narrow-sleeves traditional overcoat were permitted; as such, all Koreans, regardless of their social class, their age and their gender started to wear the durumagi or chaksuui or ju-ui (周衣).[106]
Hats was an essential part formal dress and the development of official hats became even more pronounced during this era due to the emphasis of Confucian values.[107] The gat was considered an essential aspect in a man's life; however, to replace the gat in more informal setting, such as their residences, and to feel more comfortable, Joseon-era aristocrats also adopted a lot hats which were introduced from China, such as the banggwan, sabanggwan, dongpagwan, waryonggwan, jeongjagwan.[107] The popularity of those Chinese hats may have partially been due to the promulgation of Confucianism and because they were used by literary figures and scholars in China.[107] In 1895, King Gojong decreed adult Korean men to cut their hair short and western-style clothing were allowed and adopted.[106]
-
A man wearing jungchimak. 18th century.
-
The "fluttering" effect. 18th century.
-
Waryonggwan and hakchangui in 1863
-
Photograph taken in 1863
-
Photograph taken in 1863
-
Bokgeon and simui in 1880
-
Black bokgeon and blue dopo in 1880
-
Jeongjagwan on the head
-
A Korean in mourning clothes
-
Korean men, 1871
-
Young Korean man of themiddle class, 1904
-
Korean mother and daughter, 1910–1920
Material and color
The upper classes wore hanbok of closely woven ramie cloth or other high-grade lightweight materials in warm weather and of plain and patterned silks the rest of the year. Commoners were restricted by law as well as resources to cotton at best.
The upper classes wore a variety of colors, though bright colors were generally worn by children and girls and subdued colors by middle-aged men and women. Commoners were restricted by law to everyday clothes of white, but for special occasions they wore dull shades of pale pink, light green, gray, and charcoal. The color of chima showed the wearer's social position and statement. For example, a navy color indicated that a woman had son(s). Only the royal family could wear clothing with geumbak-printed patterns (gold leaf) on the bottom of the chima.
Headdresses
Both male and female wore their hair in a long braid until they were married, at which time the hair was knotted; man's hair was knotted in a topknot called sangtu (상투) on the top of the head, and the woman's hair was rolled into a ball shaped form or komeori and was set just above the nape of the neck.
A long pin, or binyeo (비녀), was worn in women's knotted hair as both a fastener and a decoration. The material and length of the binyeo varied according to the wearer's class and status. And also wore a ribbon or daenggi (댕기) to tie and to decorate braided hair. Women wore a jokduri on their wedding day and wore an ayam for protection from the cold. Men wore a gat, which varied according to class and status.
Before the 19th century, women of high social backgrounds and
Owing to the influence of Neo-Confucianism, it was compulsory for women throughout the entire society to wear headdresses (nae-oe-seugae) to avoid exposing their faces when going outside; those headdresses may include suegaechima (a headdress which looked like a chima but was narrower and shorter in style worn by the upper-class women and later by all classes of people in late Joseon), the jang-ot, and the neoul (which was only permitted for court ladies and noblewomen).[109]
In the 19th century yangban women began to wear jokduri, a small hat that replaced gache. However gache enjoyed vast popularity in kisaeng circles well into the end of the century.
Later development
Today's hanbok is the direct descendant of hanbok patterned after those worn by the aristocratic women or by the people who were at least from the middle-class in the Joseon period,[76][110] specifically the late 19th century. Hanbok had gone through various changes and fashion fads during the five hundred years under the reigns of Joseon kings and eventually evolved to what we now mostly consider typical hanbok.
Beginning in the late 19th century, hanbok was largely replaced by new Western imports like the Western
Modern usage
Hanbok has been featured in international haute couture; on the catwalk, in 2015 when Karl Lagerfield dressed Korean models for Chanel, and during Paris Fashion Week in photography by Phil Oh.[111] It has also been worn by international celebrities, such as Britney Spears and Jessica Alba, and athletes, such as tennis player Venus Williams and football player Hines Ward.[112]
Hanbok is also popular among Asian-American celebrities, such as
South Korea
The South Korean government has supported the resurgence of interest in hanbok by sponsoring fashion designers.[115] Domestically, hanbok has become trendy in street fashion and music videos. It has been worn by the prominent K-pop artists like Blackpink and BTS, notably in their music videos for "How You Like That" and "Idol."[116][117]
In Seoul, a tourist's wearing of hanbok makes their visit to the Five Grand Palaces (Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung, Deoksugung, Gyeongbokgung and Gyeonghuigung) free of charge.
North Korea
Hanbok is also worn in present-day North Korea where it is known as Joseon-ot (조선옷; 朝鮮옷; Joseon-ot).[118] The Joseon-ot thus highlights the identity of the Korean ethnic and has been more actively promoted under the rule of Kim Jong Un.[118] The Joseon-ot is currently typically worn during special occasions, e.g. weddings,[119]: 49 and when North Koreans celebrate the 60th, 70th, and 80th birthdays of their parents.[118] It is also mandated that women wear Joseon-ot when attending National events, such as Kim Jong Il's birthday (16 February), International women's day (8 March), Kim Il Sung's birthday (15 April), Foundation Day (9 September).[119]: 78 White colored hanbok is often used as the color white has been the traditionally favored by the Korean people as the symbolism of pure spirit.[118]
The chima-jeogori remains the clothing of women, including female university students who are required to wear it as part of their university school uniforms.[118] The uniform of female university students has been a black-and-white chima-jeogori since the early to mid 2000s.[118] The chima can often be found at a length of about 30 cm from the ground for practical purposes in order to facilitate movements and to ensure that women could wear it during their daily workday with ease and comfort; this decrease in skirt length also gives a sense of modern style.[119]: 75
The Joseon-ot patterns also have special meanings which are given by the North Koreans.[118] Generally, young people in North Korea like floral prints and bright colours, while the older generations favour simple styles of clothing and solid colours.[120]: 376 The chima-jeogori in North Korea is sometimes characterized by its use of floral patterns which are often added to the sleeves of the jeogori and to the chima.[118] Azaleas, in particular, are favoured in Yongbyon due to their association with the emotional poem Azaleas (《진달래꽃》) by Kim So-wol.[118] Men occasionally wear joseon-ot.[118]
However, joseon-ot are typically more expensive than ordinary clothing, and renting is available for people who cannot afford to purchase one; some are available for purchase at US$20 while the joseon-ot made in China with South Korean designs and fabrics are more expensive and can cost approximately US$3000.[118] The mid-2010s also saw the increased popularity of children dressing in joseon-ot by their parents.[118]
History
The 1950s and 1960s also saw women from the upper-class wear Joseon-ot made out of rayon while a black-and-white chima-jeogori consisting of a black long-length chima and white jeogori were used in the 1950s and 1960s where it was generally worn by women;[121] this style can, however, be traced to a typical clothing style used in the Joseon dynasty period.[118] This combination is still representative of the ideal woman and remains the official outfit for women in North Korea to this day.[119]: 77 In the 1980s, the Joseon-ot became the official attire of women when attending ceremonies while western-style clothing became the everyday, ordinary clothing.[121]
After the mid-1990s due to extreme economic contractions, women could purchase their Joseon-ot in private markers and were allowed to choose their desired colours and designs.[118]
In 2001, Lee Young-Hee, a South Korean hanbok designer visited Pyeongyang to hold a fashion show at the Pyeongyang Youth Center on 4 and 6 June;[120]: 262 and since the 2002, North Korea have held their own fashion show in Pyeongyang every spring.[121] Since 2001, there have been an increase of shops specialized in the customization of Joseon-ot in Pyeongyang which was reported by the KBCS.[120]: 261 This increase was due to a project implemented by the public service bureau of the Pyeongyang People's Committee to increase Joseon-ot tailoring shops.[120]: 262 These shops are typically found in large cities, such as Pyeongyang and Gaesong but are rarely found in small cities and villages.[120]: 262
Modern usage by Korean diaspora
China
In China, the hanbok is referred as chaoxianfu (Chinese: 朝鮮服; 조선옷; 朝鮮옷; Joseon-ot) and is recognized as being the traditional ethnic clothing of chaoxianzu (simplified Chinese: 朝鲜族; traditional Chinese: 朝鮮族; pinyin: cháoxiǎnzú; lit. 'Joseon (Korean) ethnic group') in China. The chaoxianzu is an official term and is recognized as one of the official 55 ethnic minority in China;[12] people from chaoxianzu ethnic are not recent immigrants in China but have a long history having lived in China for generations.[9]: 240 They share the same ethnic identity as the Korean ethnic in both Northern and Southern Korea but are counted as Chinese citizens by nationality under the Constitution of China. Their traditions are not entirely the same due to their unique historical experiences, geographical location and mixed identities.[12] The term chaoxianzu literally correspond to Chosonjok (조선족; 朝鮮族; Chosŏnjok), a non-official deragotory term in South Korea, to refer to Hangukgye Junggugin (lit. 'Korean-Chinese'), which is the actual legal term in South Korea.[122] In the Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture, where most chaoxianzu reside,[12] the chaoxianfu was mostly worn on special occasions in the past;[9] however, by 2019, they had regained popularity and have become fashionable.[12]
Since the Chinese economic reform of China, there have been more exchanges with both Koreas leading to both the development and changes in chaoxianzu-style Chosŏn-ot in China;[12] some of designs of the chaoxianzu-style Chosŏn-ot have been influenced and inspired by both South Korean and North Korean hanbok designs.[9]: 246
The chaoxianzu originally preferred to wear white colours as it represented cleanliness, simplicity, and purity; however, since the 20th century, the colours started to become brigher and more vivid and diverse as woven fabrics, such as polyester and nylon sateen, started to be introduced.[12] The "reform and opening up" of China also allowed for more exchanges with both Koreas, which lead to the both development and changes in the chaoxianfu of China.[12] Following the chaoxianzu tradition, the chaoxianfu has an A-line in silhouette to give it the appearance of a mountain as per the tradition, women are the host of the family, and thus, women holding the household need to be stable; the chaoxianfu also covers the entire body.[12] The chaoxianzu have developed their own style of hanbok[10] due to the isolation for about 50 years from both the North and South Koreas.[9]: 240, 246 As a result, the styles of hanbok in South Korea, North Korea, and China, worn by the Korean ethnics from these three countries have developed separately from each other. For example, Yemi Hanbok by Songok Ryu, an ethnic chaoxianzu from the Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture, is unique in both style and business model as it can operate in both South Korea and North Korea.[9]: 240, 246 In terms of chaoxianfu design, Yemi Hanbok designs are based on Chinese-style designs.[9]: 246 Over the years, the women's chaoxianfu also changed in length for the jeogori, git, and goreum and changed in width for the git, dong-jeong, sleeves, and goreum. The git and barae have evolved from straight to curve patterns. The wrinkle arrangement, length, and silhouette of the chima have also evolved; some of the skirts were sometimes decorated with gold embroidery or gold leaf at the bottom hem.[10] The colours used were also very varied; for example, feminine colours such as pink, yellow, and deep red could be used.[10] The 1990s saw the use of gold leaf, floral prints, embroidery on the women's chaoxianfu; the use of gradient colours also emerged.[10] For men, their jeogori, baji, and sleeves were made longer; their baji also became wider. The durumagi continues to be worn, and the baeja and magoja are worn frequently in present-days.[10]
On 7 June 2008, the chaoxianfu were approved by the State Council of China to be included in the second layer of national intangible cultural heritage.[12] And, in 2011, the chaoxianfu was official designated as being part of the intangible cultural heritage of China by the Chinese government; while the announcement was welcomed by the chaoxianzu ethnic in China as a proud indicator of their equal membership in a multi-ethnic and multicultuary country such as China, it received negative criticism in South Koreans who perceived it as a "scandalous appropriation of the distinctive national culture of Koreans".[123]: 239 In 2022, a girl from the chaoxianzu ethnic wore a chaoxianfu on the 2022 Beijing Winter Olympics opening ceremony leading to an uproar from South Koreans who accused China of cultural appropriation.[122]
Social status
Especially from the Goryeo dynasty, the hanbok started to determine differences in social status (from people with the highest social status (kings), to those of the lowest social status (slaves)[124]) and gender through the many types, components,[124] colours,[125]: 132 and characteristics.[126] Although the modern hanbok does not express a person's status or social position, hanbok was an important element of distinguishment especially in the Goryeo and Joseon dynasties.[126] For example, farmers and commoners were not allowed to wear colour garments in their daily lives, excluding some categories of people, such as the shamans, gisaeng, and children, who were allowed to wear colourful clothing despite their social status.[125]: 132 Occasions when all people were allowed to wear colourful clothing were for special ceremonial occasions (e.g. wedding, birthday, holidays).[125]: 132
Clothes
Hwarot
Wonsam
Dangui
Dangui or tangwi were minor ceremonial robes for the queen, a princess, or wife of a high ranking government official while it was worn during major ceremonies among the noble class in the Joseon dynasty.[128] The materials used to make dangui varied depending on the season, so upper-class women wore thick dangui in winter while they wore thinner layers in summer.[130] The dangui came in many colors, but yellow and/or green were most common. However the emperor wore purple dangui, and the queen wore red.[130] In the Joseon dynasty, ordinary women wore dangui as part of their wedding dress.[130]
Myeonbok and Jeokui
Myeonbok
Myeonbok were the king's religious and formal ceremonial robes while jeokui were the queen's equivalent during the Goryeo and Joseon dynasties.[131] Myeonbok was composed of Myeonryu-Gwan (면류관) and Gujang-bok (구장복).[131] Myonryu-Gwan had beads, which hung loose; these would prevent the king from seeing wickedness.[131] There were also wads of cotton in the left and right sides of Myeonryu-Gwan, and these were supposed to make the king oblivious to the influence of corrupt officials. Gujang-bok was black, and it bore nine symbols out of the Twelve ornaments, which all represented the king:[131]
- Dragon: A dragon's appearance paralleled how the king governed and subsequently brought balance to the world.[131]
- Fire: The king was expected to be intelligent and wise to govern the people effectively, like a guiding light represented by the fire.[131]
- Pheasant: The image of a pheasant represented magnificence.[131]
- Mountain: As a mountain is high, the king was on a par in terms of status and was deserving of respect and worship.[131]
- Tiger: A tiger represented the king's courage.[131]
- Monkey: A monkey symbolized wisdom.[131]
- Rice: As the people needed rice to live, the king was compared to this foodstuff as he had the responsibility of protecting their welfare.[131]
- Axe: This indicated that the king had the ability to save and take lives.[131]
- Water plant: Another depiction of the king's magnificence.[131]
Jeokui
Jeokui or tseogwi (Korean: 적의) was arranged through the use of different colors as a status symbol within the royal family.[132] The empress wore purple-red colored Jeokui, the queen wore pink, and the crown princess wore deep blue.[132] "Jeok" means pheasant, and so Jeokui often had depictions of pheasants embroidered onto it.[132]
Cheolique
Ayngsam
Ayngsam was the formal clothing for students during the national government exam and governmental ceremonies.[134] It was typically yellow, but for the student who scored the highest in the exam, they were rewarded with the ability to wear green Aengsam.[134] If the highest-scoring student was young, the king awarded him with red-colored Aengsam.[134] It was similar to the namsam but with a different colour.[135]
Accessories
Binyeo
Daenggi
Daenggi is a traditional Korean ribbon made of cloth to tie and to decorate braided hair.
Norigae
Norigae was a typical traditional accessory for women; it was worn by all women regardless of social ranks.[139][140] However, the social rank of the wearer determined the different sizes and materials of the norigae.[140]
Danghye
Danghye or tanghye (당혜) were shoes for married women in the Joseon dynasty.
Kunghye
Danghye for a woman in the royal family were known as kunghye (궁혜), and they were usually patterned with flowers.[142]
Onhye
Danghye for an ordinary woman were known as onhye (온혜).[142]
Characteristic
Material
In Hanbok, various cotton fabrics are used as materials, and with the entry of Western civilization, the range of fabrics such as mixed fabrics has expanded. The use of materials also varies slightly depending on the jeogori and pants, and there is a big difference in the season.[143] In the case of jeogori, there are more than 10 types of general materials such as silk, jade, and general wool, and they use ramie or hemp in summer, and silk or Gapsa, Hangra, and Guksa cloth in spring and autumn.[144][145] The material used evenly throughout the four seasons was sesame, and silk, both ends, and silk were often used in the durumagi for adult men.[146] In the case of silk, which is one of the most widely used materials due to differences in lining and outer material, most of the silk jeogori was lined with silk, and if it was not possible, only the inside of the collar, the tip, and the sap were lined with silk. If this situation did not work out like this, the fine-grained cotton was used. In fact, more than half of the materials identified in the jeogori study were silk, followed by cotton and hemp.[147] In some cases, silk and cotton were lined with a mixture. When the jeogori was torn or broken, most of them were sewn with the same fabric, and a large piece was added to the elbow and sewn.[147] Just as in the fact that silk was used a lot in jeogori, silk, cotton, and literary arts were evenly used in various clothes, ranging from red ginseng, skirt, beoseon, and pants.
See also
- List of Korean clothing
- Hanfu - a Chinese equivalent.
- Vietnamese clothing - a Vietnamese equivalent.
- Wafuku- a Japanese equivalent.
Notes
Footnotes
- OCLC 57675221.
- ^ "Minority Ethnic Clothing : Korean (Chaoxianzu) Clothing". baoku.gmu.edu. Retrieved 23 August 2022.
- ^ Korean Culture and Information Service, 2018, Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism of the Republic of Korea
- ^ The Dreams of the Living and the Hopes of the Dead-Goguryeo Tomb Murals, 2007, Ho-Tae Jeon, Seoul National University Press
- ^ OCLC 1253353500.)
{{cite book}}
: CS1 maint: others (link - ^ )
- ^ ISBN 9781621969723.
- ^ Lopez Velazquez, Laura (2021). "Hanbok during the Goryeo and Joseon dynasty". Korea.net. Retrieved 21 August 2022.
- ^ )
- ^ a b c d e f Lin, Huishun (2020). "A study on the Alteration of traditional costume of Korean Chinese (I) - Focused on the daily wear" 중국 조선족 전통복식의 변화연구 (I) - 일상복을 중심으로 -. 한국의상디자인학회지 (in Korean). 22 (4): 63–78.
- ISSN 1225-1151.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j Jin, Wenlian (2020). Chaoxianzu's Traditions of Dress: An Exploration of Identity Within Contemporary Fashion Contexts (Thesis thesis). Auckland University of Technology.
- ^ "한복데이, 전국 5개 도시서 펼쳐진다". 쿠키뉴스 (in Korean). 15 September 2014. Retrieved 11 March 2022.
- ^ a b 역사 속의 우리 옷 변천사, 2009, Chonnam National University Press
- ^ 김, 여경 (2010). "2000년 이후 인쇄매체에 나타난 한복의 조형미 연구". ScienceON (in Korean). Retrieved 24 July 2021.
- ^ KBS Global. Archived from the originalon 17 March 2008.
- ^ a b c d e f 저고리 (in Korean). Doosan Encyclopedia. Archived from the original on 15 March 2009. Retrieved 29 September 2008.
- Britannica. Retrieved 29 September 2008.
- ^ Britannica.
- ^ "Jeogori Before 1910". Gwangju Design Biennale. Archived from the original on 24 February 2021. Retrieved 27 June 2009.
- ^ "단추". Encyclopedia of Korean Culture. Retrieved 9 July 2022.
- ^ a b 치마 (in Korean). Nate / EncyKorea.
- ^ "Important Folklore Materials:117-23". Cultural Heritage Administration. Archived from the original on 27 February 2012. Retrieved 7 January 2010.
- ^ "Important Folklore Materials: 229-1-4. Skirt belonging to a Jinju Ha clan woman, who died in 1646". Cultural Heritage Administration. Archived from the original on 27 February 2012. Retrieved 7 January 2010.
- ^ "World Underwear History: Enlightenment Era". Good People Co. Ltd. Archived from the original on 7 May 2010. Retrieved 7 January 2010.
- ^ "World Underwear History: Enlightenment Era". Good People Co. Ltd. Archived from the original on 7 May 2010. Retrieved 7 January 2010.
- ^ "Recycle LACMA: Red Korean Skirt". Robert Fontenot. June 2009. Retrieved 7 January 2010.
- ^ "Recycle LACMA: Purple Korean Skirt". Robert Fontenot. June 2009. Retrieved 7 January 2010.
- ^ a b "Korea Information". Archived from the original on 6 April 2014. Retrieved 8 October 2014.
{{cite web}}
: CS1 maint: unfit URL (link) - ^ "Underwear Coming Out: No More a Taboo". Ehwa Voice. 1 September 2005. Retrieved 8 November 2013.
- ^ "About hanbok". han-style.com. Retrieved 20 September 2013.
- ^ a b c 포 (袍) (in Korean). Encyclopedia of Korean Culture. Retrieved 23 April 2015.
- ^ Britannica. Retrieved 30 September 2008.
- ^ Congwen Shen 沈從文. Research on Ancient Chinese Clothing 中國古代服飾研究.Hong Kong Publishing Company, 1981 香港:商務印書館,1981
- ^ 최, 해율 (2007). "A Study on the Design of Historical Costume for Making Movie & multimedia-Focused on rich women's costume of Goryeo-yang and Mongol-pung in Thirteenth to Fourteenth Century-". 한국복식학회. 57 (1): 176–186.
- ^ "Men's Clothing". Life in Korea. Retrieved 1 November 2008.
- ^ EncyKorea. Archived from the originalon 10 June 2011. Retrieved 30 September 2008.
- ^ "Geocities.com". Julia's Cook Korean site. Archived from the original on 27 October 2009. Retrieved 29 November 2007.
- Daum Korean-English Dictionary.[permanent dead link]
- ^ "Encyber.com". Retrieved 8 October 2014.[permanent dead link]
- ^ The Groom's Wedding Attire Archived 23 April 2009 at the Wayback Machine Academia Koreana of Keimyung University
- ^ "What are the traditional national clothes of Korea?". Archived from the original on 10 January 2016. Retrieved 8 October 2014.
- ^ "Hanboks (Traditional Clothing)". Headgear and Accessories Worn Together with Hanbok. Korea Tourism Organization. Retrieved 6 October 2008.
- ISSN 1229-6880.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m Yu, Ju-Ri; Kim, Jeong-Mee (2006). "A Study on Costume Culture Interchange Resulting from Political Factors". Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. 30 (3): 458–469.
- ^ ISSN 1226-0401.
- OCLC 1059514121.)
{{cite book}}
: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link) CS1 maint: others (link - )
- ^ McCallion, 2008, p. 221 - 228
- ISSN 0001-6446.
- ^ ISSN 1229-6880.
- ^ JSTOR 43957480.
- ^ 고려(高麗)의 원(元)에 대(對)한 공녀(貢女),유홍렬,震檀學報,1957
- Daum / Global World Encyclopedia.
- ^ Misie Lander (January 2017). Hanbok: An Introduction to South Korea's National Dress
- ISBN 978-8995609101.
- ISBN 9780761475545. Retrieved 18 October 2019.
- ^ ISBN 9781624120565. Retrieved 18 October 2019.
- ^ ISBN 9788973755714. Retrieved 18 October 2019.
- ^ ISBN 9780313336645. Retrieved 18 October 2019.
- ^ Kim, Moon Ja, 2004, 7-15
- ^ a b Lee, Kyung-Ja, 2003
- ^ .
- ^ Kim, Munja. "우리역사넷". National Institute of Korean History.
- ^ .
- ^ S2CID 219652611.)
{{cite journal}}
: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link - ^ a b c National Museum of Korea Editorial Team (Spring 2009). "National Museum of Korea Vol.07". Quarterly Magazine. Vol. 7, no. 7. Retrieved 26 June 2022.
- ^ Nelson, 1993, p.7 & p.213-214
- ^ Korea Tourism Organization (20 November 2008). "The beauty of Korean tradition - Hanbok". Korea.net.
- ^ )
- ISSN 1598-8295.
- ^ Lee, Tae-ok. Cho, Woo-hyun. Study on Danryung structure. Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference. 2003. pp. 49-49.
- ^ a b c d Nam, Min-yi; Han, Myung-Sook (2000). "A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds". The International Journal of Costume Culture. 3 (2): 100–123.
- OCLC 846696816.
- ^ OCLC 871061483.
- ^ OCLC 42675362.
- ^ )
- ^ Cho, Woo-hyun. "Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development". 9 (3). Koreana.
{{cite journal}}
: Cite journal requires|journal=
(help)[permanent dead link] - ^ 유행과 우리옷 [Fashion and Korean clothing] (in Korean). Korea the sense. Archived from the original on 2 March 2012.
- ^ 김, 남정 (2000). "조선시대 치마에 관한 연구".
{{cite journal}}
: Cite journal requires|journal=
(help) - ^ OCLC 1154853080.)
{{cite book}}
: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link) CS1 maint: others (link - )
- ^ ISSN 1225-1151.
- )
- ^ "Hanbok". Korean Overseas Information Service.
- ^ "UriCulture.com". Archived from the original on 17 July 2011. Retrieved 8 October 2014.
- ^ Kim, Ki Sun, 2005. v. 5, 81-97.
- ^ "News.Naver.com". Retrieved 8 October 2014.
- ^ "ChinaCulture.org". Archived from the original on 24 November 2014. Retrieved 8 October 2014.
- ISBN 978-1-59265-019-4.
- S2CID 144785547.
- OCLC 1198087560.)
{{cite book}}
: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link - ^ )
- ^ a b "Five Centuries of Shrinking Korean Fashions". The Chosun Ilbo. Retrieved 27 June 2009.
- Cultural Heritage Administration. Accessed 15 July 2009.
- ^ Administration, Cultural Heritage. "Mural Tomb of Bak Ik, Miryang - Heritage Search". Cultural Heritage Administration. Retrieved 21 August 2022.
- ^ OCLC 1004424828.)
{{cite book}}
: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link - )
- ^ a b c d Murray, Anne Wood (Emeritus Curator of American Costume, Division of Costume, Department of Social and Cultural History, National Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C.). "Dress - Korea". Encyclopædia Britannica. Retrieved 10 March 2021.
In the 15th century, Korean women began to wear pleated skirts (chima) and longer chŏgori, a style that was undoubtedly introduced from China.
{{cite web}}
: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link) - )
- OCLC 39614017.
- ISBN 89-301-1039-8p.43
- ^ "Contemporary Artwork of Korean Women". Retrieved 27 June 2009.
- ^ a b c d 허윤희. "조선 여인 저고리 길이 300년간 2/3나 짧아져". 조선닷컴 (in Korean). Retrieved 6 September 2019.
- ^ Han, Hee-sook (2004). "Women's Life during the Chosŏn Dynasty". International Journal of Korean History. 6 (1): 142. Retrieved 6 September 2019.
- ^ OCLC 1059514121.
- ^ )
- ^ "The Traditional Art of Beauty and Perfume in Ancient Korea {Cultural Notes} {Beauty Notes} - The Scented Salamander: Perfume & Beauty Blog & Webzine". www.mimifroufrou.com.
- S2CID 165117375.
- OCLC 680802927.
- ^ "The Story Behind Seoul's Latest Street Style Staple". Vogue. Retrieved 17 October 2018.
- ^ "8 American Celebrities Wearing Hanbok". SweetandtastyTV. Retrieved 17 October 2018.
- ^ "KIM MeHee hanbok couture". KIM MeHee hanbok couture.
- ^ "Sandra Oh's mother makes Emmys history by wearing traditional Korean hanbok to awards". Retrieved 17 October 2018.
- ^ "Designers add a modern twist to hanbok style : Government is keen to show the world the versatility of Korea's traditional attire". Korea JoongAng Daily (in Korean). Retrieved 17 October 2018.
- ^ "11 times BTS rocked traditional Korean clothing". SBS PopAsia. Retrieved 17 October 2018.
- ^ "Here's Everything You Need To Know About BLACKPINK's Korean Hanbok Outfits In "How You Like That" MV". 26 June 2020.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n "Hanbok in N. Korea". world.kbs.co.kr. Retrieved 21 August 2022.
- ^ ISBN 9789811577031.)
{{cite book}}
: CS1 maint: others (link - ^ ISBN 9780765635235.
- ^ a b c "Changes in the Clothing Culture of North Korea under the Kim Jong Un Regime". Global North Korea (in Korean). Retrieved 23 August 2022.
- ^ a b Ahn, Yeong-chun. "[Column] The hanbok belongs to the Korean diaspora, too". The Hankyoreh. Retrieved 21 August 2022.
- )
- ^ a b "Gale - Product Login". galeapps.gale.com. Retrieved 10 April 2023.
- ^ )
- ^ a b Cho, Woo-hyun, "Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development" Archived 31 December 2013 at the Wayback Machine, "Koreana", 1995
- ^ a b c d e f g h "≪C뉴스041≫ 조은아의 한복이야기 (26)". C뉴스041. Retrieved 10 April 2023.
- ^ a b "Traditional Korean Clothing". www.lifeinkorea.com. Retrieved 10 April 2023.
- ^ a b c d e "≪C뉴스041≫ 조은아의 한복이야기 (25)". C뉴스041. Retrieved 10 April 2023.
- ^ a b c "≪C뉴스041≫ 조은아의 한복이야기 (27)". C뉴스041. Retrieved 10 April 2023.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m "면복". terms.naver.com (in Korean). Retrieved 10 April 2023.
- ^ a b c "왕실 여성들의 적의". terms.naver.com (in Korean). Retrieved 10 April 2023.
- ^ a b c "철릭". terms.naver.com (in Korean). Retrieved 10 April 2023.
- ^ a b c "앵삼". terms.naver.com (in Korean). Retrieved 10 April 2023.
- ^ "난삼(襴(幱)衫)". Encyclopedia of Korean Culture. Retrieved 9 May 2021.
- ^ "비녀". terms.naver.com (in Korean). Retrieved 10 April 2023.
- ^ "≪C뉴스041≫ 조은아의 한복이야기 (21)". C뉴스041. Retrieved 10 April 2023.
- ^ "≪문화저널21≫ 기혼여성들에게 꼭 필요했던 장신구 비녀". 문화저널21. Retrieved 26 March 2019.
- ^ "노리개". terms.naver.com (in Korean). Retrieved 10 April 2023.
- ^ OCLC 71358055.
- ^ "당혜". terms.naver.com (in Korean). Retrieved 10 April 2023.
- ^ a b c "≪C뉴스041≫ 조은아의 한복이야기 (11)". C뉴스041. Retrieved 10 April 2023.
- ^ 아름다운 한복도 예절에 맞게 입어야 오마이뉴스 2002-09-20
- ^ (그여자네)한복, 강렬한 원색 곱구나 경향신문 2007-02-15
- ^ 추석 한복 멋내기 서울신문 2007-06-28
- ^ 석주선, 《우리나라옷》, 광문출판사, 1966년, 10쪽
- ^ a b 조선초기 저고리의 복원적 고찰 장인우, 숙명여자대학교 대학원 의류학과, 1985년, 72, 77, 78쪽
References
- An, Myung Sook (안명숙); Kim, Yong Ser (김용서) (in Korean) 1998. Hanʼguk poksiksa (한국복식사). Seoul. Yehaksa (예학사) ISBN 978-89-89668-11-4
- Kim, Ki Sun (김기선). (in Korean) 2005. Information about Mongolian pigtail 몽골의 辮髮에 대하여. The Institute of Asian Ethno-Forms and Culture. v. 5, 81-97
- Kim, Moon Ja (in Korean), 2004. A study on the Source of Hanbok in ancient times and the position of Hanbok on the Globalism Archived 2 January 2011 at the Wayback Machine (고대 한복의 원류 및 세계화 속의 한복의 위치), Society of Korean Traditional Costume, v. 7.1, 7-15
- Lee, Kyung-Ja (이경자) (in Korean), 2003, Uri ot ŭi chŏnt'ong yangsik (우리옷의 전통양식 The Traditional Style of Korean Clothes) ISBN 89-7300-514-6
- Levinson, David (2002). Encyclopedia of modern Asia, Volume 2. Charles Scribner's Sons. pp. 120–121. ISBN 978-0-684-80617-4.
- McCallion, Aleasha; Condra, Jill. 2008. The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through World History. ISBN 0-313-33664-4
- Nelson, Sarah. 1993. The archaeology of Korea. ISBN 0-521-40783-4
- You, Soon Lye (유순례) (in Korean) 2006, Comparative Research on the Costume Aesthetic Korean & Mongolia (몽골과 한국의 전통복식 미의식 비교에 대한 연구), Society of Korean Traditional Costume, v. 6, 183-185
External links
- Media related to Hanbok at Wikimedia Commons
- Hanbok History Evolution
- Hanbok History Infographic
- History of Hanbok (in Korean)
- Information about Hanbok (in Korean)
- Traditional Korean Clothing - Life in Korea
- Official Korea Tourism Organization - Hanbok Clothing Archived 13 October 2016 at the Wayback Machine