Monte Rosa

Coordinates: 45°56′13″N 07°52′00″E / 45.93694°N 7.86667°E / 45.93694; 7.86667
Source: Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.
For other uses, see Monte Rosa (disambiguation).
See also: History of ascents
Monte Rosa
Monte Rosa massif
Walser)
Geography
Monte Rosa is located in Switzerland
Monte Rosa
Location of Mont Rosa
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Location in Switzerland/Italy
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Parent rangePennine Alps, Western Alps
Topo mapswisstopo: 3 – Suisse sud-ouest[1]
Climbing
First ascent1 August 1855 by Matthäus and Johannes Zumtaugwald, Ulrich Lauener, Christopher and James Smyth, Charles Hudson, John Birkbeck and Edward Stephenson.
Easiest routerock/snow/ice climb

Monte Rosa (Italian:

mountain massif in the eastern part of the Pennine Alps, on the border between Italy (Piedmont and Aosta Valley) and Switzerland (Valais). The highest peak of the massif, amongst several peaks of over 4,000 m (13,000 ft), is the Dufourspitze (4,634 m, 15,203 ft), the second highest mountain in the Alps and western Europe, after Mont Blanc.[2]
The east face of the Monte Rosa towards Italy has a height of about 2,400 metres (7,900 ft) and is the highest mountain wall of the Alps.

The group is on the watershed between the Rhône and Po basins and has a topographic prominence of 2,165 metres (7,103 ft) which is ranked fifth in the Alps.

The Monte Rosa massif has four faces. Three are in Italy: the

Valle Anzasca. The Swiss north-western face has several glaciers (with one of the largest Alpine glaciers) flowing towards the Mattertal with Zermatt.[1]

Its main summit, named

second-highest mountain in the Alps and in Europe outside of the Caucasus.[1][4][5]

The north-west side of the central Monte Rosa massif, with its enormous ice slopes and

Liskamm, a ridge on its southwestern side on the Swiss-Italian border. On the eastern side, in Italy, the mountain falls away in an almost vertical 2,400-metre-high (7,900 ft) wall of granite and ice, the biggest in Europe, overlooking Macugnaga and several smaller glaciers.[1]

Valley of Anzasca below and is the highest mountain wall of the Alps.[6]

Monte Rosa was studied by pioneering geologists and explorers, including

Horace-Bénédict de Saussure in the late eighteenth century. Following a long series of attempts beginning in the early nineteenth century, Monte Rosa's summit, then still called Höchste Spitze (lit. 'highest peak'), was first reached in 1855 from Zermatt by a party of eight climbers led by three guides. The great east wall was first climbed in 1872, from Macugnaga by Richard Pendlebury with his brother, W. M. Pendlebury, Rev. C Taylor and the guide Ferdinand Imseng.[7]

Each summer many climbers set out from the Monte Rosa Hut on the mountain's west wing for one of its summits via the normal route or for the Margherita Hut on the Signalkuppe (Italian: Punta Gnifetti), used as a research station. Many tourists and hikers also come to the Gornergrat on the northwest side of the massif to see a panorama that extends over some of the highest peaks in the Alps.

Etymology

Although Italian rosa and French rose both mean 'pink' or 'rose', the name is unrelated to these words and is instead derived from the

Walliser German,[10][unreliable source?
] later shortened to de Gorner. In standard German, the name Gorner is still used for the western ridge protruding from the main mass (Gornergrat) and the glacier that lies at its foot (Gornergletscher) but not used for the mountain itself anymore. Nowadays, in German, the Italian name Monte Rosa is used instead (Monte Rosa-Gletscher, Monte Rosa-Hütte, etc.).

Geography and climate

Geographic setting and description

See also:
List of countries by highest point and List of Swiss cantons by elevation
Monte Rosalocation in Europe
Monte Rosalocation in Europe
Monte Rosa
class=notpageimage|
Location in Europe
The Monte Rosa with Po Valley behind it, under a layer of clouds

Monte Rosa cover areas on both sides of the border between the Swiss

Valle Anzasca,11 km (6.8 mi) south-east-south Alagna Valsesia in the Valsesia and 13 km (8.1 mi) Gressoney-La-Trinité in the Val de Gressoney, respectively, away from the summit. The different sides of the mountain greatly differ from each other. The Swiss west side is almost completely covered by large glaciers, tributaries of the 57 km2 (22 sq mi) large Gorner Glacier, descending progressively with gentle slopes and forming a large uninhabited glacial valley. The Italian east side consists of a 2,400-metre-high (7,900 ft) wall overlooking Macugnaga, whose snows feed the Belvedere Glacier at its base. The southeast face, culminating at the Signalkuppe, overlooks the piedmontese Valsesia and the Val de Gressoney
in the autonomous region of Aosta Valley.

The mountain is mainly covered by eternal snows and glaciers, except for its summit which is a rocky ridge orientated west–east, near to and perpendicular to the main watershed between Switzerland and Italy (the river basins of the

Walsers
inhabited valleys.

Several perpendicular secondary ridges are connected to the central massif dividing the glaciers that descend towards the Matter Valley. The ridge called Weissgrat connecting the Nordend with the Schwarzberghorn (Italian: Corno Nero) presents a wall of formidable precipices towards the east, but falls away in a gentle slope to the west. For a breadth of a few kilometres the upper snow-fields of the Weissgrat lie almost unbroken upon this slope, but as they begin to descend towards the Matter Valley they are divided into two ice streams (the upper Gorner Glacier and the Findel Glacier) by a ridge which gradually emerges from the névé, and finally presents a rather bold front to the glaciers on either side. The highest points of this ridge, appearing insignificant by contrast with the grand objects around, is the Stockhorn (3,532 m, 11,588 ft) and the lower Gornergrat at 3,090 m (10,138 ft). On their south sides is the lower Gorner Glacier, formed by the confluence of all the major (Gornergletscher and Grenzgletscher) and minor tributaries descending from the north, west and south sides of the central Monte Rosa massif, while on the north side the Findel Glacier descends near to the hamlet of Findeln.

Monte Rosa is one of the high mountains surrounding the 40-kilometre-long (25 mi) Matter Valley south of

Dom. The Gornergrat
summit, lying 8 km (5.0 mi) on the north-west at 3,100 metres (10,200 ft), is a popular viewpoint of the massif, since it is accessible by train from Zermatt, using the highest open air railway line in Europe.

  • The east and north side with the 600-metre-high (2,000 ft) north face of the Nordend (as seen from the Strahlhorn)
    The east and north side with the 600-metre-high (2,000 ft) north face of the Nordend (as seen from the Strahlhorn)
  • Monte Rosa's 2,400-metre-high (7,900 ft) east face, as seen from upper end of Valle Anzasca (Piedmont, Italy)
    Monte Rosa's 2,400-metre-high (7,900 ft) east face, as seen from upper end of Valle Anzasca (Piedmont, Italy)
  • The west side as seen at a distance of 15 km (9.3 mi) from Hörnlihütte, at the foot of the Matterhorn, 3,260 m (10,700 ft) (in the back from left to right): Rimpfischhorn, Strahlhorn, Findelgletscher, Stockhorn (and Gornergrat below it), upper (on the north side) and lower (on the west side) Gornergletscher – the central Monte Rosa massif – Grenzgletscher, Liskamm and several Breithorn peaks on the south side (2008)
    The west side as seen at a distance of 15 km (9.3 mi) from Hörnlihütte, at the foot of the Matterhorn, 3,260 m (10,700 ft) (in the back from left to right): Rimpfischhorn, Strahlhorn, Findelgletscher, Stockhorn (and Gornergrat below it), upper (on the north side) and lower (on the west side) Gornergletscher – the central Monte Rosa massif – Grenzgletscher, Liskamm and several Breithorn peaks on the south side (2008)
  • Monte Rosa viewed from the summit of the Matterhorn (centre), with the valleys of Mattertal (left) and Valtournenche (right) alongside it
    Monte Rosa viewed from the summit of the Matterhorn (centre), with the valleys of Mattertal (left) and Valtournenche (right) alongside it
  • Aerial photo of Monte Rosa massif with Gornergletscher on the left and Grenzgletscher on the right. The green spot in the middle is the glacier lake Gornersee (2.599 m)[11]
    Aerial photo of Monte Rosa massif with Gornergletscher on the left and Grenzgletscher on the right. The green spot in the middle is the glacier lake Gornersee (2.599 m)[11]

Geography

The extended range of Monte Rosa, which appears to originate in the intersection of two axes of great elevation, throws out a number of ridges that radiate afar and gradually subside into the plain of northern Italy, covering a relatively large area. There is no convenient mode of subdividing the range. However, the natural limits of the district can be defined on the north side by the two branches of the Visp torrent. Following the west branch through the

Arona, along Lake Maggiore, and up the valley of the Toce, to Vogogna, then ascending by the Val Anzasca to the Monte Moro Pass, the circuit is completed by the descent through the Saastal to Stalden. Within the line so traced, exceeding 450 km (280 mi) in length, all the ranges properly belonging to this group are included.[2]

View from the valley of Gressoney

The direction of the ranges and the depressions offers a marked contrast to that prevailing throughout the adjoining regions of the Alps. Unless in a small part of the Italian valleys, the direction here is either parallel or perpendicular to the meridian. Monte Rosa itself lies near the intersection of a great north and south ridge, extending from the

Dent d'Herens and the Pizzo Bianco near Macugnaga. The minor ridges on the north side of the border are parallel to this latter range, with their corresponding depressions occupied by the glaciers of Gorner and Findelen.[2]

On clear days the mountainous massif of Monte Rosa provides a striking view from the

Po plain, particularly its upper reaches in western Lombardy and eastern Piedmont. It dominates the horizon, towering between other lesser Alpine
peaks as a prominent, multi-pointed, razor-sharp bulge, its permanent glaciers shining under the sun.

"It is the opinion of many of the most competent judges, that for grandeur, beauty, and variety, the valleys descending from Monte Rosa are entitled to preeminence over every other portion of the Alps, and perhaps, if we regard the union of those three elements, over every other mountain region in the world." – John Ball (first president of the Alpine Club)[2]

The massif is the border between Switzerland and Italy, though glacial melt has caused some alterations to the border. These changes were ratified by the two countries in 2009 and will continue to be subject to change as melting continues.

Geology

The entire massif consists mainly of

Briançonnais microcontinent zone, although its paleographic origin is controversial and is sometimes assigned to the Sub-Penninic nappes. Rocks in the paragneiss of the Monte Rosa Nappe record eclogite-facies metamorphism.[12] The deformation of the Monte Rosa granites indicates a depth of subduction of about 60 km (40 mi). They were brought to the surface by tectonic uplift
, which still continues today. The summit is a sharp, jagged edge of mica schist connected by an arête with the Nordend, but cut off from the Zumsteinspitze to the south by nearly vertical rocks about 120 m (390 ft) in height.

Climate

Being the highest point in Switzerland, Monte Rosa is also one of the most extreme places. The average air pressure is about half of that of the sea level (56%) and the temperature can reach as low as −40 °C (−40 °F).[13] Owing to the frequent prevalence of a high wind from the east or north-east, and the slow pace at which it is possible to move when near the top, precautions against cold are particularly necessary when climbing Monte Rosa.[14] The snow line is located at about 3,000 m (9,800 ft).

Tourism

See also: About huts and routes to the Dufourspitze
Regina Margherita Hut on Signalkuppe in August 2002.

The Monte Rosa massif is popular for mountaineering, hiking, skiing and snowboarding. It hosts several

crevasses in its extensive glaciers – one of the major glaciated areas in the Alps. Many alpinists who died climbing Monte Rosa are buried in the Old Church
cemetery in Macugnaga.

Trekking

The

Arpitan/French-speaking Aosta Valley, and the valleys of Lombardy and Piedmont.[citation needed
]

The Monte Rosa massif

Peaks

Usually these peaks are considered to be part of the Monte Rosa massif:

Peak Elevation (m/ft)
Dufourspitze 4,634 metres (15,203 ft)
Dunantspitze 4,632 metres (15,197 ft)
Grenzgipfel 4,618 metres (15,151 ft)
Nordend 4,609 metres (15,121 ft)
Zumsteinspitze 4,563 metres (14,970 ft)
Signalkuppe 4,554 metres (14,941 ft)
Parrotspitze 4,432 metres (14,541 ft)
Ludwigshöhe
 4,341 metres (14,242 ft)
Corno Nero (Schwarzhorn) 4,322 metres (14,180 ft)
Vincentpiramid
 4,215 metres (13,829 ft)
Balmenhorn 4,167 metres (13,671 ft)
Giordanispétz
 4,046 metres (13,274 ft)
Jägerhorn 3,970 metres (13,020 ft)
Roccia Sesia 3,570 metres (11,710 ft)
Punta delle Locie/Punta Grober 3,497 metres (11,473 ft)
Punta Vittoria 3,435 metres (11,270 ft)
Punta Tre Amici 3,426 metres (11,240 ft)
Stolemberg 3,202 metres (10,505 ft)
Corno del Camoscio/Gemschhòre 3,026 metres (9,928 ft)

Glaciers

Usually these glaciers are considered to be part of the Monte Rosa massif:

  • Gornergletscher
    (English: Gorner Glacier)
  • Monte-Rosa-Gletscher (English: Monte Rosa Glacier)
  • Grenzgletscher
    (English: Border Glacier)
  • Findelgletscher
    (English: Findel Glacier)
  • Lysgletscher (English: Lys Glacier)
  • Endregletscher (English: Endre Glacier)
  • Ghiacciaio di Bors (English: Bors Glacier)
  • Ghiacciaio delle Piode (English: Piode Glacier)
  • Ghiacciaio della Sesia (English: Sesia Glacier)
  • Ghiacciaio delle Vigne (English: Vigne Glacier)
  • Ghiacciaio Sud delle Loccie (English: South Glacier of Loccie)
  • Ghiacciaio Nord delle Loccie (English: North Glacier of Loccie)
  • Ghiacciaio del Signal (English: Signal Glacier)
  • Ghiacciaio del M. Rosa (English: M. Rosa Glacier)
  • Ghiacciaio del Nordend (English: Nordend Glacier)
  • Ghiacciaio del Belvedere
    (English: Belvedere Glacier)

Panorama

The south-east side of Monte Rosa from near Lake Maggiore, rising about 4,500 metres (14,800 ft) above the plains of Lombardy

See also

References

  1. ^
    ISBN 978-3-302-00003-9
    . Retrieved 2019-04-20 – via map.geo.admin.ch.
  2. ^ a b c d John Ball, A Guide to the Western Alps, pp. 308-314
  3. ^ "Dufourspitze | mountain, Switzerland". Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved 2020-01-06.
  4. ^ Reinhold Messner, The big walls: from the North Face of the Eiger to the South Face of Dhaulagiri, p. 23
  5. Europe–Asia border is defined north of the Caucasus, Monte Rosa is the second-highest summit in Europe after Mont Blanc (or third if Mont Blanc de Courmayeur
    is considered as a summit).
  6. ^ Steffen Kern: Die fünf gewaltigsten Wände der Welt. outdoor-magazin.com, 30. September 2014 (in German)
  7. ^ Taylor, Rev. C. (1873). "Monte Rosa from Macugnaga" (PDF). Alpine Journal. 6: 232–244. Retrieved 10 March 2025.
  8. ^ Monte Rosa on the official website of the Aosta Valley. Archived 2012-09-30 at the Wayback Machine Retrieved on 11 September 2009
  9. ISBN 0-472-11111-6
  10. ^ Alpenwelt Monte Rosa www.brauchtumschweiz.ch Retrieved on 11 September 2009
  11. ^ Gornersee, hikr.org, retrieved 27 June 2023
  12. ^ Tom McCann, The Geology of Central Europe: Mesozoic and Cenozoic, p. 1152
  13. ^ There is no weather station on the summit but there is one on the nearby Signalkuppe (see Capanna Margherita Archived 2013-11-02 at the Wayback Machine meteogiornale.it)
  14. ^ John Ball, A guide to the western Alps, p. 317
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