Isle of Mull: Difference between revisions
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Throughout all this time, the descendants of the Cenél Loairn had retained their identity; they were now the [[Clan MacLean|MacLeans]]. Now that John MacDonald was exiled, James IV restored the authority of the MacLeans over Mull. An earlier chief of the MacLeans had married the daughter of the first Lord of the Isles, and received [[Duart Castle]] as the dowry; this now became the stronghold of MacLean control of Mull. The senior branch of the family constructed [[Moy Castle|a tower house at Moy]], on the southern side of Mull, while the cadet branch retained Duart Castle. |
Throughout all this time, the descendants of the Cenél Loairn had retained their identity; they were now the [[Clan MacLean|MacLeans]]. Now that John MacDonald was exiled, James IV restored the authority of the MacLeans over Mull. An earlier chief of the MacLeans had married the daughter of the first Lord of the Isles, and received [[Duart Castle]] as the dowry; this now became the stronghold of MacLean control of Mull. The senior branch of the family constructed [[Moy Castle|a tower house at Moy]], on the southern side of Mull, while the cadet branch retained Duart Castle. |
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Legend has it that the wreck of a Spanish galleon, laden with gold, lies somewhere in the mud at the bottom of Tobermory Bay, although the ship's identity and cargo are disputed. By some accounts, the ''Florencia'' (or ''Florida'', or ''San Francisco''), a ship of the defeated [[Spanish Armada]] fleeing the English fleet in 1588, anchored in Tobermory to take on provisions. After a dispute over payment, the ship caught fire and the gunpowder magazine exploded, sinking the vessel. In her hold, reputedly, was £300,000 in [[gold bullion]].<ref>A Clan Feud, a Spanish Galleon, and a Big Bang. [http://lostfort.blogspot.com/2010/02/clan-feud-spanish-galleon-and-big-bang.html lostfort.blogspot.com] Retrieved 10 July 2010.</ref> Other sources claim the vessel was the ''San Juan de Sicilia'' (or ''San Juan de Baptista''), which, records indicate, carried troops, not treasure.<ref>The Galleon San Francisco. [https://web.archive.org/web/20110724063137/http://shipmodeling.net/vb_forum/thread1722-Galleon-San-Francisco-information-.html shipmodeling.net] Retrieved 2010-07-10.</ref><ref>The Tobermory Wreck. [http://news.scotsman.com/iainlundy/The-Tobermory-wreck-that-promises.2765124.jp news.scotsman.com] Retrieved 2010-07-10.</ref> According to that account, the island's chief, [[Sir Lachlan Mor Maclean|Lachlan Mor Maclean]], struck a deal with the Spanish commander to re-provision and refit the ship in return for military intervention on the side of the MacLeans in their feud with enemies on nearby islands.<ref name="Martin">{{citation | title=The Spanish Armada | last1=Martin |first1=Colin |last2=Parker |first2=Geoffrey |publisher=W. W. Norton & Company |location=New York |year=1988 |isbn=0-393-02607-8 |page=244 }}</ref><ref>{{Citation |last=Campbell of Airds |first=Alastair |authorlink=Alastair Campbell of Airds |title=A History of Clan Campbell; Volume 2; From Flodden to the Restoration |publisher=[[Edinburgh University Press]] |location=[[Edinburgh]] |year=2002 |isbn=1-902930-18-5 |page=95 }}</ref><ref>{{citation | title=The Spanish Armada | last1=Lewis |first1=Michael |publisher=B. T. Batsford Ltd |location=London |year=1960 |page= }}</ref> Whatever the true story, there have been numerous searches for the wreck, and its rumoured treasure, from the mid-17th century to the end of the 20th century.<ref>{{citation | title=Full Fathom Five: Wrecks of the Spanish Armada | last1=Martin |first1=Colin |publisher=The Viking Press |location=New York |year=1975 |isbn=0-670-33193-7 |page=58 }}</ref> No significant treasure has yet been recovered in Tobermory Bay.<ref>Tobermory Bay. [http://www.reese.org/duneroller/content/treasure/buried_treasure/tobermory_bay.htm reese.org] Retrieved 2010-07-10.</ref> |
Legend has it that the wreck of a Spanish galleon, laden with gold, lies somewhere in the mud at the bottom of Tobermory Bay, although the ship's identity and cargo are disputed. By some accounts, the ''Florencia'' (or ''Florida'', or ''San Francisco''), a ship of the defeated [[Spanish Armada]] fleeing the English fleet in 1588, anchored in Tobermory to take on provisions. After a dispute over payment, the ship caught fire and the gunpowder magazine exploded, sinking the vessel. In her hold, reputedly, was £300,000 in [[gold bullion]].<ref>A Clan Feud, a Spanish Galleon, and a Big Bang. [http://lostfort.blogspot.com/2010/02/clan-feud-spanish-galleon-and-big-bang.html lostfort.blogspot.com] Retrieved 10 July 2010.</ref> Other sources claim the vessel was the ''San Juan de Sicilia'' (or ''San Juan de Baptista''), which, records indicate, carried troops, not treasure.<ref>The Galleon San Francisco. [https://web.archive.org/web/20110724063137/http://shipmodeling.net/vb_forum/thread1722-Galleon-San-Francisco-information-.html shipmodeling.net] Retrieved 2010-07-10.</ref><ref>The Tobermory Wreck. [http://news.scotsman.com/iainlundy/The-Tobermory-wreck-that-promises.2765124.jp news.scotsman.com] Retrieved 2010-07-10.</ref> According to that account, the island's chief, [[Sir Lachlan Mor Maclean|Lachlan Mor Maclean]], struck a deal with the Spanish commander to re-provision and refit the ship in return for military intervention on the side of the MacLeans in their feud with enemies on nearby islands.<ref name="Martin">{{citation | title=The Spanish Armada | last1=Martin |first1=Colin |last2=Parker |first2=Geoffrey |publisher=W. W. Norton & Company |location=New York |year=1988 |isbn=0-393-02607-8 |page=244 }}</ref><ref>{{Citation |last=Campbell of Airds |first=Alastair |authorlink=Alastair Campbell of Airds |title=A History of Clan Campbell; Volume 2; From Flodden to the Restoration |publisher=[[Edinburgh University Press]] |location=[[Edinburgh]] |year=2002 |isbn=1-902930-18-5 |page=95 }}</ref><ref>{{citation | title=The Spanish Armada | last1=Lewis |first1=Michael |publisher=B. T. Batsford Ltd |location=London |year=1960 |page= }}</ref> Whatever the true story, there have been numerous searches for the wreck, and its rumoured treasure, from the mid-17th century to the end of the 20th century.<ref>{{citation | title=Full Fathom Five: Wrecks of the Spanish Armada | last1=Martin |first1=Colin |publisher=The Viking Press |location=New York |year=1975 |isbn=0-670-33193-7 |page=58 }}</ref> No significant treasure has yet been recovered in Tobermory Bay.<ref>Tobermory Bay. [http://www.reese.org/duneroller/content/treasure/buried_treasure/tobermory_bay.htm reese.org] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110721114950/http://www.reese.org/duneroller/content/treasure/buried_treasure/tobermory_bay.htm |date=21 July 2011 }} Retrieved 2010-07-10.</ref> |
||
[[File:Moy Castle on Mull - geograph.org.uk - 33674.jpg|thumb|left|Moy Castle, a tower house of the MacLeans]] |
[[File:Moy Castle on Mull - geograph.org.uk - 33674.jpg|thumb|left|Moy Castle, a tower house of the MacLeans]] |
Revision as of 00:43, 8 February 2018
Scottish Gaelic name | |
---|---|
Old Norse name | Myl |
Meaning of name | pre-Gaelic |
Tobermory waterfront | |
Location | |
OS grid reference | NM590354 |
Coordinates | 56°27′N 6°00′W / 56.45°N 6°W |
Physical geography | |
Island group | Mull |
Area | 875.35 square kilometres (337.97 sq mi) |
Area rank | 4 [1] |
Highest elevation | Ben More 966 m |
Administration | |
Sovereign state | United Kingdom |
Country | Scotland |
Council area | Argyll and Bute |
Demographics | |
Population | 2990 (2011 Census) |
Population rank | 8 [1] |
Population density | 3.2 people/km2[2][3] |
Largest settlement | Tobermory |
References | [3][4][5] |
Mull (
With an area of 875.35 square kilometres (337.97 sq mi) Mull is the fourth largest Scottish island and the fourth largest island surrounding Great Britain (excluding Ireland). In the
Tobermory is also home to Mull's only
History
Early history
It is widely believed that Mull was inhabited from shortly after the end of the
Between 600 BC and AD 400,
In the 6th century, Irish migrants invaded Mull and the surrounding coast, establishing the Gaelic kingdom of Dál Riata. The kingdom was divided into a number of regions, each controlled by a kin group, of which the Cenél Loairn controlled Mull and the adjacent mainland to the east. Dál Riata was a springboard for the Christianisation of the mainland; the pivotal point was AD 563, when Columba, an Irish missionary, arrived at Iona (just off the south-west point of Mull) and founded a monastery, from which to start evangelising the local population.[8][9][10]
Norway
In the 9th century, Viking invasions led to the destruction of Dál Riata, and its replacement by the
In the late 11th century,
Meanwhile, the Crovan Dynasty had retained the title king of the Isles, and control of the
Throughout the early 13th century, the Scottish King,
Lords of the Isles
At the end of the century, a dispute arose over the Scottish kingship between King
In 1354, though in exile and without control of his ancestral lands,
In 1437, the Lordship was substantially expanded when Alexander, the Lord of the Isles, inherited the rule of Ross maternally. The expansion led the MacDonalds to move their centre of power from Islay to the twin castles of Aros and Ardtornish.
In 1462, the most ambitious of the Lords of the Isles,
MacLeans
Throughout all this time, the descendants of the Cenél Loairn had retained their identity; they were now the
Legend has it that the wreck of a Spanish galleon, laden with gold, lies somewhere in the mud at the bottom of Tobermory Bay, although the ship's identity and cargo are disputed. By some accounts, the Florencia (or Florida, or San Francisco), a ship of the defeated
Following the Scottish Reformation, the MacLeans became supporters of Protestantism. By the mid-17th century, they had become promoters of conventicles, opposed to king Charles II's repudiation of the Solemn League and Covenant, and supporting acts of civil disobedience. Though personally opposed to persecution of such people, Archibald Campbell, the Earl of Argyll, was specifically ordered by the Scottish privy council to suppress conventicles within his lands, which included Lorn. The atmosphere of hostility soon spread to Mull, where opponents of the conventicles now felt emboldened, leading to outbreaks of violence between the two religious factions.
In 1678, Campbell was specifically instructed to seize Mull, and suppress both the violence and conventicles. It took him until 1680 to gain possession of the whole island. Campbell took charge of Duart Castle, and ejected the MacLean leadership from Mull; they moved to
Later history
Following Jacobite insurrections, the Heritable Jurisdictions Act abolished comital authority in Mull, and Campbell control of the Argyll sheriffdom; the Campbells could now only assert influence as Landlords. Many castles which had been in the hands of the MacLeans (such as Moy) had been slighted by the Campbells, or fallen into disrepair, but more comfortable homes were built nearby.
In 1773 the island was visited by
In 1889, counties were formally created in Scotland, on shrieval boundaries, by
The whole island became a Restricted Area during
Schooling
There is one secondary school on the island (
Geography
Mull has a coastline of 480 kilometres (300 mi) and its climate is moderated by the Gulf Stream. The island has a mountainous core; the highest peak on the island is Ben More, which reaches 966 metres (3,169 ft). Various peninsulas, which are predominantly moorland, radiate from the centre.
The Aros peninsula to the north includes the main town of
Numerous islands lie off the west coast of Mull, including Erraid, Inch Kenneth, Iona, Gometra, and Ulva. Smaller uninhabited islands include Eorsa, Little Colonsay, the Treshnish Isles and Staffa (of Fingal's Cave fame). Calve Island is an uninhabited island in Tobermory Bay. Two outlying rock
Part of the indented west coast of Mull and some of the offshore islands there are part of the
Economy
The economy began to revive when the construction of Craignure Pier in 1964 started to bring tourists. Tourism is now the mainstay of the island's economy. Ecotourism became popular from the 1990s, and the reintroduction of white-tailed eagles in 2005 became a particular ecotourist attraction.[22]
There is a small amount of farming,
Isle of Mull cheese is Scottish Cheddar cheese made from raw cow milk produced on the Isle of Mull.[24]
Transport
Ferry links to Mull from the mainland include the most used ferry, from
There are ferry links from
The Isle of Mull Railway ran from Craignure to Torosay Castle, but closed in 2011.
One can fly to Mull in a private light aircraft using a landing strip near Salen.
Buses are operated by West Coast Tours Ltd. There are routes from Tobermory to Calgary via Dervaig (Service 494), Tobermory to Craignure via Salen (Service 495), and Craignure to Fionnphort via Bunessan (Service 496). Limited services operate to Lochbuie and Gruline.[26] West Coast Tours also provide guided tours around Mull, Iona and Staffa, including boat transfers. A minibus service also operates seasonally from Craignure to Duart Castle.[27]
Communications
Mull was connected to the mainland by a submarine telegraph cable between Oban and Grass Point in 1871. There were telegraph offices at Tobermory, Dervaig, Calgary, Craignure, Pennyghael, Tiroran, Fionnphort, Bunessan and Iona.[28]
The Post Office built an experimental wireless telegraph station on Meall an Inbhire near Tobermory in 1892.[29]
In 2014 fibre optic cables for support of high speed internet were laid between Kilchoan (in Ardnamurchan) and Tobermory, and between Dunstaffnage (near Oban) and Torosay. In February 2015 additional cables were laid underground between Tobermory and Torosay to provide a complete link.
Media and the arts
Mull has been used as a location in a number of feature films over the years. These include
The BBC children's TV series Balamory features the town of Tobermory on the island. This provided an additional tourist attraction on the island. Grand Tours of Scotland, a TV series featured Mull as one of the islands visited in the series.
An Tobar ("The Well"), based in Tobermory, is the only publicly funded multidisciplinary arts centre in Argyll. Established in 1997, it is a centre for visual arts, crafts and music.[34] With effect from 1 April 2013, An Tobar and the Mull Theatre were brought together as Comar
Wildlife film-maker
The singer-songwriter Colin MacIntyre famously uses the name Mull Historical Society as a pseudonym. Born on the island, he took the name from the actual Historical Society, which has since changed its name to Mull Historical and Archaeological Society.
Whilst part of the Argyll and Bute council area, Mull should not be confused with
Natural history
The Isle of Mull is a popular destination for naturalists and photographers as it is one of the primary spots in the UK for seeing some of Britain's more elusive species. Information about the island's wildlife (including species lists, photographs and distribution data) is being compiled on a website called Wild Mull.[36]
Mull has over 800 species of vascular plant (684 native and 171 naturalised) including 33 species of fern,[36] at least 18 species of orchid and 22 native species of tree. There are about 700 species of lichen, 571 liverworts and mosses and 247 marine algae (seaweeds), making a total of 2,388 species of plant recorded from the island. In addition, more than 2,000 species of fungi have been recorded on Mull: in their 1983 paper about the fungi of the Inner Hebrides, Dennis and Watling say, "When one speaks of the Inner Hebridean fungi one is referring to the floras of Mull and Rhum".[37]
The island has 261 different bird species, including the
The island is home to a thriving population of otters that live in coastal habitat, hunting during the day.[38] The Mull Otter Group has been established to create positive awareness regarding the conservation needs of otters on the Isle of Mull.[39]
The island also has several birds of prey, such as hen harriers,[40] golden eagles,[41] and short eared owls:[42] all difficult species to see throughout the rest of the UK. Pine martens have also recently become established on Mull.[43] According to a paper by Scottish Natural Heritage [44] it is unlikely that pine martens have ever been native to the Isle of Mull. Based on sighting records, and from resulting modelling exercises, it is believed the species arrived in 2004 through accidental transportation on timber boats from the mainland.
The Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Trust was established in 1994 as a registered charity to pioneer practical, locally based education and monitoring programmes on cetaceans (whales, dolphins and porpoises) in the Hebrides.[45] The Trust is based at Tobermory, where it has its main, education and research offices and a visitor centre.
There are also a number of invasive non-native species that occur on the island, including invasive plant species such as Japanese knotweed,[46] and invasive animals such as feral cats and American mink[47] that are believed to be causing damage to the indigenous species populations through competition and predation.[36]
Sport
The Tour of Mull is a closed road rally event held on the island every October. While some well off competitors benefit from superior cars, the locals benefit from their knowledge of the roads and thus anyone can win. "The Best Rally In The World" is the title of a book written by the founder of the event, Brian Molyneux. Previously sponsored by Philips, it has been sponsored since 2005 by Tunnock's, the Lanarkshire biscuit manufacturer.[48][49]
There are several shipwrecks around the shores which offer scuba diving.
There is an Isle of Mull Cycling Club.
The Cross at the Castle
Mull Runners organise a half marathon and 10K run each August. It is run between Craignure and Salen.
Rugby is played at Garmony (beside the Craignure to Salen road 6.5 miles north of Craignure). The Mull Rugby 7s Competition takes place annually in May at The Isle of Mull R.F.C's rugby club.
There are golf courses at Tobermory (Erray Park), Craignure (beside the Craignure to Salen road a mile north of Craignure) and on the Isle of Iona.
Mull Highland Games are held each July in the grounds of Tobermory Golf Club (Erray Park). Events include Heavy Weights, Light Field, and Highland Dance. See the Scottish Highland Games Association website for dates.
There is a swimming pool at the Isle of Mull Hotel, Craignure open to the general public at advertised times.
There are tennis courts in Tobermory. Apply at the Argyll and Bute Council Offices, Breadalbane Street, Tobermory for details.
Community initiatives
Following research and community consultation in 1996/7, a development trust was created to identify key goals for the communities of Mull and Iona. Mull & Iona Community Trust (MICT)[50] was formed in 1997 and published a comprehensive "Community Regeneration Strategy" for the islands. They have purchased the only butcher's shop on the island (closed February 2010), created a community-run Countryside Ranger service, instigated various recycling initiatives and provide a fundraising and training consultancy.[51]
Notable residents
- Mary Macleod (Mairi Nighean Alasdair Ruaidh), a 17th-century poet, is said to have been banished to Mull.[52]
- Lachlan Macquarie, (1762-1824) was born on the nearby island of Ulva.[53] He became Governor of New South Wales from 1809 to 1822, and is known as "The Father of Australia".[54] His mausoleum can be found near his old patrimonial estate near Gruline and is maintained at the expense of the National Trust of Australia.[55]
- Mary MacDonald (1789–1872) from Morning has Broken.[56]
See also
References
- Baird, Bob (1995) Shipwrecks of the West of Scotland. Glasgow. Nekton Books. ISBN 1-897995-02-4
- Currie, Jo. (2001) Mull: The Island and Its People. Birlinn Ltd.
- Jermy, A.C. and Crabbe, J.A. (Ed) (1978) The Island of Mull a Survey of its Flora and Environment. London. British Museum (Natural History).
- Mull Theatre
Footnotes
- ^ 2011 census.
- ^ a b National Records of Scotland (15 August 2013). "Appendix 2: Population and households on Scotland's Inhabited Islands" (PDF). Statistical Bulletin: 2011 Census: First Results on Population and Household Estimates for Scotland Release 1C (Part Two) (PDF) (Report). SG/2013/126. Retrieved 14 August 2020.
- ^ ISBN 978-1-84195-454-7.
- ^ Ordnance Survey. OS Maps Online (Map). 1:25,000. Leisure.
- ISBN 0-901824-25-9
- ^ General Register Office for Scotland (28 November 2003) Scotland's Census 2001 – Occasional Paper No 10: Statistics for Inhabited Islands. Retrieved 26 February 2012.
- ^ Tobermory Distillery tobermory.co.uk Archived 15 May 2011 at the Wayback Machine Retrieved 2010-07-10.
- ISBN 0-8122-0630-4.
- ISBN 978-1-62040-517-8.
- ISBN 978-1-59884-654-6.
- ^ A Clan Feud, a Spanish Galleon, and a Big Bang. lostfort.blogspot.com Retrieved 10 July 2010.
- ^ The Galleon San Francisco. shipmodeling.net Retrieved 2010-07-10.
- ^ The Tobermory Wreck. news.scotsman.com Retrieved 2010-07-10.
- ISBN 0-393-02607-8
- ISBN 1-902930-18-5
- ^ Lewis, Michael (1960), The Spanish Armada, London: B. T. Batsford Ltd
- ISBN 0-670-33193-7
- ^ Tobermory Bay. reese.org Archived 21 July 2011 at the Wayback Machine Retrieved 2010-07-10.
- )
- ^ Baird (1995) p. 142
- ^ "National Scenic Areas" Archived 11 March 2017 at the Wayback Machine. SNH. Retrieved 30 Mar 2011.
- ^ "Wildlife at work: The economic impact of white-tailed eagles on the Isle of Mull" (PDF). Royal Society for the Protection of Birds. 3 March 2011.
- ^ "Isle of Mull Brewing Company". Today's Breweries. ScottishBrewing.com. Retrieved 17 August 2016.
- ^ Cheese For Dummies - Culture Magazine, Laurel Miller, Thalassa Skinner. p. 144.
- ^ "Transport Links" The Glen Forsa Hotel. Retrieved 14 July 2008.
- ^ "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 22 July 2011. Retrieved 6 March 2010.
{{cite web}}
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{{cite web}}
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suggested) (help)CS1 maint: archived copy as title (link) - ^ P. A. Macnab (1970). The Isle of Mull. David & Charles. p. 129.
- ^ "Electrical engineering". 9. 1913: 623.
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- ^ "The Sea Change" theseachange.wordpress.com. Retrieved 30 December 2008.
- ^ "The Sea Change" Archived 6 November 2008 at the Wayback Machine tailormadeproductions.com. Retrieved 30 December 2008.
- ^ "Druimfin, the new home for Mull Theatre". Mull Theatre. Retrieved 26 July 2009.
- ^ "Welcome to AN TOBAR, Tobermory, Isle of Mull" antobar.co.uk. Retrieved 21 June 2010.
- ^ "Eagle Island with Gordon Buchanan" Archived 11 October 2008 at the Wayback Machine Mike Birkhead Associates. Retrieved 21 June 2008.
- ^ a b c "Home - Wild Mull". Archived from the original on 22 December 2015.
{{cite web}}
: Unknown parameter|dead-url=
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suggested) (help) - ^ Dennis, R.W.G., Watling, R. 1983. Fungi in the Inner Hebrides. In The Natural Environment of the Inner Hebrides, Edited by John Morton Boyd and D.R. Bowes, Volume 83, January 1983, pp 415-429
- ^ "Lutra lutra". Wild Mull. Retrieved 24 October 2015.
- ^ "Mull Otter Group". Mull Otter Group. Retrieved 24 October 2015.
- ^ "Circus cyaneus". Wild Mull. Retrieved 24 October 2015.
- ^ "Aquila chrysaetos". Wild Mull. Retrieved 24 October 2015.
- ^ "Asio flammeus". Wild Mull. Retrieved 24 October 2015.
- ^ "Martes martes Wild Mull". Retrieved 24 October 2015.
- ^ Roy, S., Milborrow, J., Allan, J. and Robertson, P. 2012. Pine martens on the Isle of Mull – Assessing risks to native species. Scottish Natural Heritage Commissioned Report No.560
- ^ "Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Trust". Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Trust. Retrieved 24 October 2015.
- ^ "Reynoutria japonica". Wild Mull. Retrieved 24 October 2015.
- ^ "Neovison vison". Wild Mull. Retrieved 24 October 2015.
- ^ "Tunnock's Tour of Mull" 2300club.org. Retrieved 24 April 2011.
- ^ "Tour of Mull Rally 1969-2002" Archived 19 August 2013 at the Wayback Machine Mullcarclub.co.uk. Retrieved 27 September 2008.
- ^ "Mull and Iona Community Trust".
- ^ DTA Scotland Directory of Members Archived 3 April 2009 at the Wayback Machine
- doi:10.1093/ref:odnb/17675. (Subscription or UK public library membershiprequired.)
- OCLC 70677943. Retrieved 7 June 2009.
- ^ "GOVERNOR MACQUARIE". The Sydney Morning Herald. National Library of Australia. 1 March 1913. p. 7. Retrieved 12 November 2012.
- ^ http://www.mq.edu.au/about/about-the-university/the-macquarie-story/history/macquaries-influence
- ^ Explore Mull: Mary Macdonald’s Memorial (picture and directions)