Ozarks

Source: Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.
"Ozark" redirects here. For the TV series, see Ozark (TV series). For other uses, see Ozark (disambiguation).

Ozarks
Ozark Highlands; Ozark Mountains; Ozark Plateaus
View of the Ozarks from the Buffalo National River, Newton County, Arkansas
Highest point
PeakWahzhazhe Summit (formerly known as Buffalo Lookout), Boston Mountains Edit this on Wikidata
Elevation2,561 ft (781 m) Edit this on Wikidata
Listing
Coordinates37°10′N 92°30′W / 37.167°N 92.500°W / 37.167; -92.500
Dimensions
Length350 km (220 mi) Edit this on Wikidata
Width400 km (250 mi) Edit this on Wikidata
Area122,000 km2 (47,000 sq mi) Edit this on Wikidata
Geography
CountryUnited States
StatesArkansas, Kansas, Missouri and Oklahoma
Geology
Age of rockPaleozoic to Proterozoic
A rural Ozarks scene. Phelps County, Missouri
The Saint Francois Mountains, viewed here from Knob Lick Mountain, are the exposed geologic core of the Ozarks.

The Ozarks, also known as the Ozark Mountains, Ozark Highlands or Ozark Plateau, is a physiographic region in the U.S. states of Missouri, Arkansas, Oklahoma and the extreme southeastern corner of Kansas. The Ozarks cover a significant portion of northern Arkansas and most of the southern half of Missouri, extending from Interstate 40 in central Arkansas to Interstate 70 in central Missouri.

There are two mountain ranges in the Ozarks: the Boston Mountains of Arkansas and Oklahoma, as well as the St. Francois Mountains of Missouri. Wahzhazhe Summit (formerly known as Buffalo Lookout), is the highest point in the Ozarks at 2,561 feet (781 m), and is located in the Boston Mountains, 3.4 miles (5.5 km) east of Pettigrew, Newton County, Arkansas. Geologically, the area is a broad dome with the exposed core in the ancient St. Francois Mountains. The Ozarks cover nearly 47,000 square miles (120,000 km2), making it the most extensive highland region between the Appalachians and Rockies. Together with the Ouachita Mountains, the area is known as the U.S. Interior Highlands.

The Salem Plateau, named after Salem, Missouri, makes up the largest geologic area of the Ozarks. The second largest is the Springfield Plateau, named after Springfield, Missouri, nicknamed the "Queen City of the Ozarks". On the northern Ozark border are the cities of St. Louis and Columbia, Missouri. Significant Ozark cities in Arkansas include Fayetteville, Bentonville, Springdale, Eureka Springs, and Fort Smith. Branson, just north of the Arkansas–Missouri border, is a tourist destination where Ozark culture is popularized.

Etymology

The

toponym Ozarks may derive from an English-language adaptation of the French abbreviation aux Arcs (short for French: aux Arcansas, meaning "of/at/to the Arkansas (Quapaw) [plural]").[1][2] In the decades prior to the French and Indian War of 1754 to 1763, aux Arkansas referred to France's trading post at Arkansas Post, located in the wooded Arkansas Delta lowland area above the confluence of the Arkansas River with the Mississippi River.[3][4][5]

Other possible etymological origins include French: aux arcs meaning "[land] of the arches",[6] in reference to the dozens of natural bridges formed by erosion and collapsed caves in the Ozark region. These include Clifty Hollow Natural Bridge (actually a series of arches) in Missouri,[7] and Alum Cove in the Ozark–St. Francis National Forest.

By the early 20th century, the term "Ozarks" had entered common parlance.[8][9][need quotation to verify]

Physiographic subregions

Elevation map of the Ozarks

The Ozarks consist of five physiographic subregions: the

Saint Francois Mountains
; and the Missouri River and Mississippi River border areas along the eastern and northeastern flanks.

Desert Southwest.[17][18]

The Boston Mountains contain the highest elevations of the Ozarks, with peaks over 2,500 feet (760 m), and form some of the greatest relief of any formation between the Appalachians and Rocky Mountains. The

Illinois River, although there also is considerable drainage from the south slopes of the Boston Mountains to the Arkansas River. Major streams of this type include Lee Creek, Frog Bayou, Mulberry River, Spadra Creek, Big Piney Creek, Little Piney Creek, Illinois Bayou, Point Remove Creek, and Cadron Creek. Many Ozark waterways have their headwaters in the uplands of the Boston formation, including the Buffalo, Kings, Mulberry, Little Red and White rivers.[20]

Topography is mostly gently rolling in the Springfield and Salem plateaus, whereas the

Saint Francois Mountains are more rugged. Although the Springfield formation's surface is primarily Mississippian limestone and chert, the Salem Plateau is made of older Ordovician dolomites, limestones, and sandstones.[21] Both are rife with karst topography and form long, flat plains. The formations are separated by steep escarpments that dramatically interrupt the rolling hills. Although much of the Springfield Plateau has been denuded of the surface layers of the Boston Mountains, large remnants of these younger layers are present throughout the southern end of the formation, possibly suggesting a peneplain process.[22] The Springfield Plateau drains through wide, mature streams ultimately feeding the White River.[23]

Geology

The

sedimentary rocks and form the basal crust of the entire region.[25]

mya nonconformally overlies reddish rhyolite
that formed close to 1500 mya in the St. Francois Mountains.

A major

Lead Belt during this time.[25]

Outcrop of Roubidoux sandstone along a bluff in Douglas County, Missouri

Sedimentation resumed in the Ordovician with the deposition of the Gunter sandstone, the Gasconade dolomite and the prominent Roubidoux sandstone and dolomite. The sandstone of the Roubidoux forms prominent bluffs along the streams eroding into the southern part of the Salem Plateau. The Roubidoux and Gunter sandstones serve as significant aquifers when present in the subsurface. The source of the sands is considered to be the emerging Wisconsin Dome to the northeast.[25] The Ozark region remained as a subsiding shallow carbonate shelf environment with a significant thickness of cherty dolomites such as the Jefferson City, Cotter and Powell formations.[25]

Portions of the Ozark Plateau, the Springfield Plateau of southwest Missouri and northern Arkansas, are underlain by Mississippian cherty limestones locally referred to as "Boone chert", consisting of limestone and chert layers. These are eroded and form steep hills, valleys and bluffs.

The Boston Mountains are a high and deeply dissected plateau. The rocks of the region are essentially little disturbed, flat-lying sedimentary layers of Paleozoic age. The highest ridges and peaks are capped by Pennsylvanian sandstone such as the basal Atoka and the "Middle Bloyd".[26] The deeply eroded valleys are cut into Mississippian limestone and below that layer Ordovician dolomite.

During the Pennsylvanian period the Ozark Plateau was uplifted as a result of the Ouachita orogeny. During the late Paleozoic the deep ocean basin that existed in central and southern Arkansas was lifted when South America collided with North America, creating the folded Ouachita Mountains and uplifting the Ozark plateau to the north.

Ecology and conservation

Formal conservation in the region began when the Ozark National Forest was created by proclamation of President Theodore Roosevelt in 1908 to preserve 917,944 acres (3,714.79 km2) across five Arkansas counties. Another 608,537 acres (2,462.66 km2) were added the following year. The initial forest included area as far south as Mount Magazine and as far east as Sylamore.[27]

In 1939, Congress established

The Wilderness Act of 1964 which designated wilderness areas "where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by men, where man himself is a visitor and does not remain", though this included second growth public forests like the Mark Twain National Forest.[28]

Land was also added to Ozark National Forest during this period, with over 544,000 acres (2,200 km2) in total additions. Some land was reclaimed by the government through the

isopod; and Ozark chinquapin
. It is a habitat of migratory birds and contains geological, archeological, historical, and paleontological resources.

Commercial farms and processing operations are known to raise levels of chemical and biological contaminants in Ozark streams, threatening water supplies, recreational use and endangered native species.[29][30][31][32][33]

Lakes and streams

Big Spring, the largest freshwater spring in the Ozarks, discharges 304 million US gallons (1,150,000 m3) of water per day into the Current River.
Canoers on the Current River in the Ozark National Scenic Riverways
Roark Bluff on the Buffalo National River
View of the Ozarks from Ha Ha Tonka State Park on Lake of the Ozarks, Camden County, Missouri

Many of the rivers and streams in the Ozarks have been dammed. Most of the dams in the region were initially built for the dual purpose of flood control and hydropower generation but have also become major economic drivers through recreational use in places such as Branson, Missouri, and Mountain Home, Arkansas.

The Army Corps of Engineers among others, operates multiple dams in the Ozarks region. Some of the largest lakes created by these dams are on the White River. Beginning in 1911 with the construction of Powersite Dam on the White River near Branson, Missouri and the impoundment of Lake Taneycomo the Ozarks rivers have been harnessed for electrical power, recreation, and flood control. After the President Franklin D, Roosevelt signed the Flood Control Act of 1938, six large flood control dams were constructed on the White River and its tributaries.

  • Beaver Dam on the White River - Beaver Lake
  • Table Rock Dam on the White River - Table Rock Lake
  • Bull Shoals Dam on the White River - Bull Shoals Lake
  • Norfork Dam on the North Fork River - Norfolk Lake
  • Greers Ferry Lake on the Little Red River - Greers Ferry Lake
  • Clearwater Dam on the Black River - Clearwater Lake

Multiple smaller lakes have been created by dams in the White River basin from 1911 through 1960. These smaller lakes include Lake Sequoyah,[34] a small recreational fishing lake east of Fayetteville, Arkansas, formed in 1961; Sequoyah is the uppermost impoundment on the White River. Below Sequoyah (northeast of Fayetteville) is Beaver Lake, formed in 1960. The White River continues northeasterly into Table Rock Lake (1958) in Missouri, which feeds directly into Lake Taneycomo, where the river zigzags southeasterly into Arkansas forming Bull Shoals Lake along the Arkansas-Missouri line. Completed in 1952, Bull Shoals is the furthest downstream lake on the White River proper. Norfork Lake was formed by damming the North Fork River, a tributary of the White River, in 1941.

Additional large lakes in the Ozarks region include

Truman Lake in the northern Ozarks. These three lakes were formed by impounding the Osage River and its tributary the Pomme de Terre River
in 1931, 1961 and 1979 respectively.

Grand Lake o' the Cherokee in northeast Oklahoma, on the western portion of the Ozark Plateau, was created in 1940 with the damming of the Grand River. Stockton Lake was formed in 1969 by damming the Sac River near the city of Stockton, Missouri, and supplements the water supply of Springfield in nearby Greene County.

The creation of the lakes significantly altered the Ozark landscape and affected traditional Ozark culture through displacement.

Jacks Fork, Eleven Point and Meramec rivers.[35]

Because of the success of the Army Corps efforts to dam the large rivers in the Ozarks, the Ozarks Society began protests to keep the other rivers in the Ozarks free flowing. The Buffalo National River was created by an Act of Congress in 1972 as the nation's first National River, administered by the National Park Service. The designation came after over a decade of battling a proposed Army Corps dam in the media, legislature, and courts to keep the Buffalo River free flowing. The Ozark Society, the main force behind the dam protest, still leads the fight to keep the Buffalo River pristine and protected. Today, the Buffalo River sees approximately 800,000 visitors camping, canoeing, floating, hiking, and tubing annually.[40] In Missouri, the Ozark National Scenic Riverways[41] was established in 1964 along the Current and Jacks Fork rivers as the first US national park based on a river system. The Eleven Point River is included in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System[42] established in 1968. These parks and rivers are a major economic driver for some of the least populated counties in Arkansas and Missouri, attracting up to 1.5 million tourists annually.

Many other waterways and streams have their headwaters in the Boston Mountains portion of the Ozarks such as the Mulberry River, the White River, War Eagle Creek, Little Mulberry Creek, Lee Creek, Big Piney Creek, and the Little Red River. To the south, the Arkansas River valley separates the Boston Mountains from the Ouachita Mountains.[43]

Missouri Ozark rivers include the Gasconade, Big Piney, and Niangua rivers in the north central region. The Meramec River and its tributaries Huzzah Creek and Courtois Creek are found in the northeastern Ozarks. The Black and St. Francis rivers mark the eastern crescent of the Ozarks. The James, Spring and North Fork rivers are in south-central Missouri. Forming the west central border of the Ozarks from Missouri through Kansas and into Oklahoma are the Spring River and its tributary, Center Creek. Grand Falls, Missouri's largest natural waterfall, a chert outcropping, includes bluffs and glades on Shoal Creek south of Joplin. All these river systems see heavy recreational use in season, including the Elk River in southwestern Missouri and its tributary Big Sugar Creek.

Ozark rivers and streams are typically clear water, with baseflows sustained by many seeps and springs, and flow through forests along limestone and dolomite bluffs. Gravel bars are common along shallow banks, while deep holes are found along bluffs.[44] Except during periods of heavy rain or snow melt – when water levels rise quite rapidly – their level of difficulty is suitable for most canoeing and tubing.

Fish hatcheries are common due to the abundance of springs and waterways.[37] The Neosho National Fish Hatchery was built in 1888; it was the first federal hatchery. The Arkansas Game and Fish Commission, Missouri Department of Conservation and U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service operate numerous warm and cold water hatcheries and trout parks;[45][46] private hatcheries such as at Rockbridge[47] are found throughout the region.

Regional economy

Traditional economic activity

The Ozarks contain ore deposits of

barite. Many of these deposits have been depleted by historic mining activities, but much remains and is currently being mined in the Lead Belt of southeastern Missouri. Historically, the lead belt around the Saint Francois Mountains and the Tri-State district lead-zinc mining area around Joplin, Missouri, have been important sources of metals. Mining practices common in the early 20th century left significant abandoned underground mine problems and heavy metal contamination in topsoil and groundwater in the Tri-State district.[48][49]

Much of the area supports

National Forests
has long been an important economic activity.

The majority of the Ozarks is forested. Oak-hickory is the predominant type; eastern junipers are common, with stands of pine often seen in the southern range. Less than a quarter of the region has been cleared for pasture and cropland.[50] Forests that were heavily logged during the early-to-mid-20th century have recovered; much of the remaining timber in the Ozarks is second-growth forest. However, deforestation of frontier forest contributed through erosion to increased gravel bars along Ozark waterways in logged areas; stream channels have become wider and shallower, and deepwater fish habitat has been lost.[15]

CCC lookout on White Rock Mountain, Franklin County, Arkansas

The numerous rivers and streams of the region saw hundreds of water-powered timber and grist mills.[51][52] Mills were important centers of culture and commerce; dispersed widely throughout the region, mills served local needs, often thriving within a few miles of another facility. Few Ozark mills relied on inefficient water wheels for power; most utilized a dam, millrace and water turbine.[53]

During the New Deal, the Civilian Conservation Corps employed hundreds in the construction of nearly 400 fire lookouts throughout the Ozarks at 121 known sites in Arkansas[54] and 257 in Missouri.[55] Of those lookouts, about half remain, and many of them are in use by the U.S. Forest Service. A 2007 report by the National Trust for Historic Preservation deemed these fire lookouts and related structures as one of America's 11 Most Endangered Historic Places.[56]

In the 1960s, federal activity promoted modernization, especially through better transportation and tourism. The Ozarks Regional Commission sponsored numerous projects.[57]

Current economic activities

Tourism is the growth industry of the Ozarks as evidenced by the growth of the Branson, Missouri, entertainment center celebrating traditional Ozark culture.[38][58] The rapidly growing Northwest Arkansas metropolitan area has also become a tourist hub, drawing nationwide attention for the Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art in Bentonville, Arkansas.[59]

ConAgra Foods each operates several hundred poultry farms and processing plants throughout the Ozarks. Schreiber Foods
has operations throughout southern Missouri.

The

Wal-Mart, Leggett & Platt, Bass Pro Shops, and O'Reilly Auto Parts
are based in the Ozarks.

The area is home to several

microbreweries throughout the region.[60]

Culture

See also:
Culture of Missouri
See also: Culture of Arkansas

"Ozark" also refers to the distinctive culture, architecture,

Scots-Irish, and German descent, and the Ozark families from which the regional culture derived[62] tend to have lived in the area since the 19th century.[63]

The first public school in Jasper County, Missouri

Early settlers relied on

wild grasses and wildflowers are plentiful, and beekeeping is common.[65]

Print and broadcast media have explored Ozark culture broadly. Books set in the Ozarks include

KYTV. The Clampett clan of The Beverly Hillbillies TV show provide a stereotypical depiction of Ozark people. Ozark musicians include Porter Wagoner and old-time fiddler Bob Holt.[70] Netflix drama series Ozark takes place in Osage Beach, Missouri and revolves around the well-to-do Byrde family as their lives are uprooted and they are forced to move from Chicago to the Ozarks after a money laundering scheme goes wrong. The series focuses on the Byrdes' dealings in the Ozarks, as well as their interactions with local Ozark crime families. The series premiered on July 21, 2017.[71]

Examples of commercial interpretations of traditional Ozark culture include the two major family theme parks in the region,

Ozark Folk Center State Park in Mountain View, Arkansas
, interpret regional culture through musical performance and exhibitions of pioneer skills and crafts.

Traditional Ozark culture includes stories and tunes passed orally between generations through community music parties and other informal gatherings.

field work, many Ozark anecdotes from the oral tradition are often bawdy, full of wild embellishments on everyday themes.[74][75] In 1941–42, commissioned by Alan Lomax of the Archive of Folk Culture, Randolph returned to the Ozarks with a portable recording machine from the Library of Congress and captured over 800 songs, ballads and instrumentals.[76] Selected from among these several hundred recordings, 35 tracks were released on Various Artists: Ozark Folksongs (Rounder Records) in 2001.[73]

Artist's Point, located along the Boston Mountains Scenic Loop in Crawford County, Arkansas

folklife and fiddle music for over four decades, donated a collection of audio recordings, fieldnotes and photographs to Missouri State University in Springfield.[80]
The collection includes more than 3,000 hours of fiddle music and interviews recorded at jam sessions, music parties, concerts and dances in the Ozarks. Selected audio recordings along with biographical sketches, photographs and tune histories were published in Drew Beisswenger and Gordon McCann's 2008 book/37-track CD set Mel Bay Presents Ozarks Fiddle Music: 308 Tunes Featuring 30 Legendary Fiddlers With Selections from 50 Other Great Ozarks Fiddlers.

From 1973 to 1983, the Bittersweet project, which began as an English class at

Lebanon High School in Missouri, collected 476 taped and transcribed interviews, published 482 stories, and took over 50,000 photographs documenting traditional Ozark culture.[81]

Population influx since the 1950s,

Northern Plains, contributes to changing cultural values in the Ozarks. Theme parks and theatres seen to reflect regional values have little in common with traditional Ozark culture. Community tradition bearers remain active, in decreasing numbers, far afield of commercial offers.[82][83]

Religion

Ozark religion, like that of

Catholics.[84][85] Religious organizations headquartered in the Ozarks include the Assemblies of God and Baptist Bible Fellowship International in Springfield and the General Association of General Baptists in Poplar Bluff
.

See also

References

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  76. ^ "Rounder Records Catalog Entry". Rounder.com. December 6, 2012. Retrieved January 6, 2013.
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  83. ^ Bob Holt: Fiddler from the Missouri Ozarks. Local Legacies project of the Library of Congress.
  84. ^ "The Association of Religion Data Archives | Maps & Reports". Thearda.com. Archived from the original on May 10, 2008. Retrieved February 19, 2010.
  85. ^ "The Association of Religion Data Archives | Maps & Reports". Thearda.com. Archived from the original on March 27, 2017. Retrieved February 19, 2010.

Further reading

  • Beisswenger, Drew & Gordon McCann, Mel Bay Presents Ozarks Fiddle Music: 308 Tunes Featuring 30 Legendary Fiddlers With Selections from 50 Other Great Ozarks Fiddlers. 2008.
  • Blevins, Brooks, A History of the Ozarks: Volume 1: The Old Ozarks. Urbana, IL: University of Illinois Press, 2018.
  • Rafferty, Milton D. The Ozarks: Land and Life. Fayetteville, AR: University of Arkansas Press, 2001.
  • Rafferty, Milton D. "Agricultural Change in the Western Ozarks" Missouri Historical Review 69 (April 1975): 299-322. online
  • Randolph, Vance. The Ozarks: An American Survival of primitive society. 1931.
  • Rossiter, Phyllis. A Living History of the Ozarks Gretna, LA: Pelican, 1992.
  • Phillips, Jared. Hipbillies: Deep Revolution in the Arkansas Ozarks Fayetteville, AR: University of Arkansas Press, 2019.

Folklore

  • Gilmore, Robert Karl. Ozark Baptizings, Hangings, and Other Diversions: Theatrical Folkways of Rural Missouri, 1885-1910 Norman, OK: University of Oklahoma Press, 1984.
  • Morrow, Lynn, and James Keefe, eds. White River Chronicles. Fayetteville, AR: University of Arkansas Press, 1994.
  • McNeil, W. K.Ozark Country. Jackson, MS: University Press of Mississippi, 1995.
  • Randolph, Vance. Ozark Folksongs. In four volumes. Columbia, MO: University of Missouri Press, 1980)

History

  • A reminiscent history of the Ozark region: comprising a condensed general history, a brief descriptive history of each county, and numerous biographical sketches of prominent citizens of such counties (1894) full text

Tourism

  • Morrow, Lynn, and Linda Myers-Phinney. Shepherd of the Hills Country: Tourism Transforms the Ozarks, 1880s–1930s. Fayetteville, AR: University of Arkansas Press, 1999.

External links

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Ozark Mountains.
Wikivoyage has a travel guide for Ozarks.
National Scenic Byways of the Ozarks
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