Beaujolais: Difference between revisions

Coordinates: 46°09′N 4°39′E / 46.15°N 4.65°E / 46.15; 4.65
Source: Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.
Content deleted Content added
link syntax and minor changes
Rescuing 1 sources and tagging 0 as dead. #IABot (v1.6.1) (Balon Greyjoy)
Line 33: Line 33:
Rather than sue for [[libel]], the producers sued under an obscure French law that punishes the denigration of French products. In January 2003, the court in Villefranche-sur-Saône found in favor of the Beaujolais producers and awarded [[USD]]$350,000 which would put the small, employee owned publication out of business.<ref name="Sotheby pg 165-168"/> The bad publicity garnered from the "Shit wine case" was extensive, with several publications such as ''[[Le Monde]]'', ''[[The Times]]'', ''[[The New York Times]]'' and the ''[[International Herald Tribune|Herald Tribune]]'' running critical or satirical articles on the court's decision.<ref name=deca605/> In 2005, the highest court of appeal found that there was no case for defamation and Representatives of the Beaujolais winemakers were ordered to pay [[Euro|€]]2,000 (US$2,442) in court costs to ''Lyon Mag''.<ref name=deca605/>
Rather than sue for [[libel]], the producers sued under an obscure French law that punishes the denigration of French products. In January 2003, the court in Villefranche-sur-Saône found in favor of the Beaujolais producers and awarded [[USD]]$350,000 which would put the small, employee owned publication out of business.<ref name="Sotheby pg 165-168"/> The bad publicity garnered from the "Shit wine case" was extensive, with several publications such as ''[[Le Monde]]'', ''[[The Times]]'', ''[[The New York Times]]'' and the ''[[International Herald Tribune|Herald Tribune]]'' running critical or satirical articles on the court's decision.<ref name=deca605/> In 2005, the highest court of appeal found that there was no case for defamation and Representatives of the Beaujolais winemakers were ordered to pay [[Euro|€]]2,000 (US$2,442) in court costs to ''Lyon Mag''.<ref name=deca605/>


In 2005, the Vins Georges Duboeuf company was charged with mixing low-grade wine with better vintages after a patchy 2004 harvest.<ref name="samuel2006">Samuel, Henry. (2006-07-05.) [http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/main.jhtml?xml=/news/2006/07/05/wine05.xml&sSheet=/news/2006/07/05/ixnews.html "King of Beaujolais is convicted over adulterated wines."] (News website.) ''Telegraph.co.uk''. Retrieved on 2007-10-04.</ref> Georges Duboeuf denied wrongdoing, blaming human error and pointing out that none of the affected wine was released to consumers.<ref name="samuel2006" /> The production manager directly responsible admitted his actions and resigned, and a court found that both "fraud and attempted fraud concerning the origin and quality of wines" had been committed.<ref name="samuel2006" /> Fewer than 200,000 liters of the company's annual 270 million liter production were implicated, but L'Affaire Duboeuf, as it was called, was considered a serious scandal.<ref>Walt, Vivienne. (2005-10-03.) [http://money.cnn.com/magazines/fortune/fortune_archive/2005/10/03/8356731/ "The grapes of wrath."] (News website.) ''CNN.com''. Retrieved on 2007-10-04.</ref>
In 2005, the Vins Georges Duboeuf company was charged with mixing low-grade wine with better vintages after a patchy 2004 harvest.<ref name="samuel2006">Samuel, Henry. (2006-07-05.) [http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/main.jhtml?xml=/news/2006/07/05/wine05.xml&sSheet=/news/2006/07/05/ixnews.html "King of Beaujolais is convicted over adulterated wines."] (News website.) ''Telegraph.co.uk''. Retrieved on 2007-10-04.</ref> Georges Duboeuf denied wrongdoing, blaming human error and pointing out that none of the affected wine was released to consumers.<ref name="samuel2006" /> The production manager directly responsible admitted his actions and resigned, and a court found that both "fraud and attempted fraud concerning the origin and quality of wines" had been committed.<ref name="samuel2006" /> Fewer than 200,000 liters of the company's annual 270 million liter production were implicated, but L'Affaire Duboeuf, as it was called, was considered a serious scandal.<ref>Walt, Vivienne. (2005-10-03.) [http://money.cnn.com/magazines/fortune/fortune_archive/2005/10/03/8356731/ "The grapes of wrath."] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080422211958/http://money.cnn.com/magazines/fortune/fortune_archive/2005/10/03/8356731/ |date=2008-04-22 }} (News website.) ''CNN.com''. Retrieved on 2007-10-04.</ref>


In December 2007, five people were arrested after reportedly selling nearly 600 [[tonnes]] of sugar to growers in Beaujolais. Up to 100 growers were accused of using the sugar for illegal [[chaptalization]] and also of exceeding volume quotas between 2004 and 2006.<ref>[http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/main.jhtml?xml=/news/2007/12/19/wfra119.xml ''Trouble ferments in Beaujolais country''] Daily Telegraph 19 December 2007</ref>
In December 2007, five people were arrested after reportedly selling nearly 600 [[tonnes]] of sugar to growers in Beaujolais. Up to 100 growers were accused of using the sugar for illegal [[chaptalization]] and also of exceeding volume quotas between 2004 and 2006.<ref>[http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/main.jhtml?xml=/news/2007/12/19/wfra119.xml ''Trouble ferments in Beaujolais country''] Daily Telegraph 19 December 2007</ref>

Revision as of 21:51, 9 December 2017

Beaujolais
Wine region
TypeAppellation d'origine contrôlée
Year established1936
CountryFrance
Part ofBurgundy
Soil conditionsGranite, Schist, Clay and Sandstone
Total area10,500ha
Grapes producedGamay with a little Pinot noir (and the local variation of Pinot Liébault), Chardonnay, Aligoté, Pinot gris (known locally as Pinot Beurot), Pinot blanc and Melon de Bourgogne
Wine producedBeaujolais, Beaujolais Villages, cru Beaujolais, Beaujolais Nouveau

Beaujolais (French pronunciation:

Chablis, Côte d'Or, Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais put together.[1]

The wine takes its name from the historical

département of the Rhône-Alpes region and southern areas of the Saône-et-Loire département of Burgundy. While administratively considered part of the Burgundy wine region, the climate is closer to the Rhône and the wine is sufficiently individual in character to be considered separately from Burgundy and Rhône. The region is known internationally for its long tradition of winemaking, for the use of carbonic maceration, and more recently for the popular Beaujolais nouveau
.

History

The region of Beaujolais was first cultivated by the

Saint-Amour as being low priced and best consumed young.[1]

In the 1980s, Beaujolais hit a peak of popularity in the world's wine market with its

négociants like Georges Duboeuf, demand outpaced supply for the easy drinking, fruity wines. As more Beaujolais producers tried to capitalize on the "Nouveau craze", production of regular Beaujolais dropped and an eventual backlash occurred in the late 1990s and early 21st century. By this point, the whole of Beaujolais wine had developed a negative reputation among consumers who associated Gamay based wines with the slightly sweet, simple light bodied wines that characterized Beaujolais Nouveau. Producers were left with a wine lake surplus that French authorities compelled them to reduce through mandatory distillation. In response, there has been renewed emphasis on the production of more complex wines that are aged longer in oak barrels prior to release. Recent years have seen a rise in the number of terroir driven estate-bottled wines made from single vineyards or in one of the Cru Beaujolais communes, where the name of the commune is allowed to be displayed on the label.[1]

Gamay grape

When Philippe the Bold outlawed the cultivation of Gamay in Burgundy, it pushed the grape south to the Beaujolais region.

Gamay noir is now known to be a cross of Pinot noir and the ancient white variety Gouais, the latter a Central European variety that was probably introduced to northeastern France by the Romans. The grape brought relief to the village growers following the decline of the

Philippe the Good issued another edict against Gamay, in which he stated the reason for the ban was that "The Dukes of Burgundy are known as the lords of the best wines in Christendom. We will maintain our reputation".[2] The edicts had the effect of pushing Gamay plantings southward, out of the main region of Burgundy and into the granite based soils of Beaujolais where the grape thrived.[1]

Scandals

Following the 2001 vintage, over 1.1 million cases of Beaujolais wine (most of it Beaujolais Nouveau) had to be destroyed or distilled due to lackluster sale as part of a consumer backlash against the popularity of Beaujolais Nouveau. French wine critic

François Mauss claimed, in an interview given to a local newspaper Lyon Mag, that the reason for the backlash was the poor quality of Beaujolais Nouveau that had flooded the market in recent decades. He claimed that Beaujolais producers had long ignored the warning signs that such a backlash was coming and continued to produce what Mauss termed vin de merde (shit wine).[3]
This triggered an outcry among Beaujolais producers followed by an association of 56 cooperative producers filing a lawsuit against the Lyon Mag for publishing Mauss' comments.

Rather than sue for

USD$350,000 which would put the small, employee owned publication out of business.[4] The bad publicity garnered from the "Shit wine case" was extensive, with several publications such as Le Monde, The Times, The New York Times and the Herald Tribune running critical or satirical articles on the court's decision.[3] In 2005, the highest court of appeal found that there was no case for defamation and Representatives of the Beaujolais winemakers were ordered to pay 2,000 (US$2,442) in court costs to Lyon Mag.[3]

In 2005, the Vins Georges Duboeuf company was charged with mixing low-grade wine with better vintages after a patchy 2004 harvest.[5] Georges Duboeuf denied wrongdoing, blaming human error and pointing out that none of the affected wine was released to consumers.[5] The production manager directly responsible admitted his actions and resigned, and a court found that both "fraud and attempted fraud concerning the origin and quality of wines" had been committed.[5] Fewer than 200,000 liters of the company's annual 270 million liter production were implicated, but L'Affaire Duboeuf, as it was called, was considered a serious scandal.[6]

In December 2007, five people were arrested after reportedly selling nearly 600

tonnes of sugar to growers in Beaujolais. Up to 100 growers were accused of using the sugar for illegal chaptalization and also of exceeding volume quotas between 2004 and 2006.[7]

Climate and geography

Cru Beaujolais region of Régnié

Beaujolais is a large wine producing region, larger than any single district of Burgundy. There are over 18,000

Arpitan) and the economic capital of the area is Villefranche-sur-Saône (Velafranche). Many of Beaujolais vineyards are found in the hillside on the outskirt of Lyons in the eastern portion of the region along the Saône valley. The Massif Central is located to the west and has a tempering influence on Beaujolais' climate. The region is located south of the Burgundy wine region Mâconnais with nearly 100 communes in the northern region of Beaujolais overlapping between the AOC boundaries Beaujolais and the Maconnais region of Saint-Véran.[1]

The climate of Beaujolais is

Mediterranean influence on the climate. The region is overall, warmer than Burgundy with vines that consistently fully ripen grapes. By the time that the Beaujolais Nouveau is released in late November, the foothills in the western regions will have normally seen snow. A common viticultural hazard is spring time frost.[1]

The

soils of Beaujolais divide the region into a northern and southern half, with the town of Villefranche serving as a near dividing point. The northern half of Beaujolais, where most of the Cru Beaujolais communes are located, includes rolling hills of schist and granite based soils with some limestone. On hillsides, most of the granite and schist is found in the upper slopes with the lower slopes having more stone and clay composition. The southern half of the region, also known as the Bas Beaujolais, has flatter terrain with richer, sandstone and clay based soils with some limestone patches. The Gamay grape fares differently in both regions-producing more structured, complex wines in the north and more lighter, fruity wines in the south. The angle of the hillside vineyards in the north exposes the grapes to more sunshine which leads to harvest at an earlier time than the vineyards in the south.[1]

Appellations

The new rules for Beaujolais appellations were issued by

INAO in 2011[10]
There are twelve main appellations of Beaujolais wines covering the production of more than 96 villages in the Beaujolais region.
alcohol level for the grapes is 10,5%,[10] and the maximum yield is 58 hl/ha (63 hl/ha for a bumper crop).[10] Exactly the same limits are effective for Beaujolais-Villages. Maximum chaptalization levels are established at 3 g/l (glucose + fructose).[10]

Cru Beaujolais from Brouilly.

Beaujolais Crus

Bottle of Côte de Brouilly wine.

The ten Beaujolais Crus differ in character. The following three crus produce the lightest bodied Cru Beaujolais and are typically meant to be consumed within three years of the vintage.[9]

The next three crus produce more medium bodied Cru Beaujolais that Master of Wine Mary Ewing-Mulligan recommend needs at least a year aging in the bottle and to be consumed within four years of the vintage.[9]

The last four crus produce the fullest bodied examples of Cru Beaujolais that need the most time aging in the bottle and are usually meant to be consumed between four and ten years after harvest.[9]

  • Chénas - Once contained many of the vineyards that are now sold under the Moulin-à-Vent designation. It is now the smallest Cru Beaujolais with wines that are noted for their aroma of wild roses.[11] In ideal vintages, a vin de garde is produced that is meant to age at least five years before consuming and last up to 15. The area named is derived from the forest of French oak trees (chêne) that used to dot the hillside.[4]
  • Juliénas-This cru is based around the village named after
    peonies.[11] In contrast to the claims of Régnié, Juliénas growers believe that this area was the site of the first vineyards planted in Beaujolais by the Romans during this conquest of Gaul.[4]
  • Morgon - Produces earthy wines that can take on a Burgundian character of silky texture after five years aging. These wines are generally the deepest color and most rich Cru Beaujolais with aromas of apricots and peaches.[11] Within this Cru there is a particular hillside, known as Cote du Py, in the center of Morgon that produces the most powerful examples of Morgon wines.[4]
  • Moulin-à-Vent - Wines are very similar to the nearby Chénas Cru Beaujolais. This region produces some of the longest-lasting examples of Beaujolais wine, with some wines lasting up to ten years. Some producers will age their Moulin-à-Vent in
    aging and can last up to 20 years.[4]

Beaujolais Nouveau

A glass and bottle of Beaujolais Nouveau from the 2013 vintage.

The early history of Beaujolais Nouveau can trace its roots to 19th century when the first wines of the vintage were sent down the Saône to the early bistros of Lyon. Upon their arrival signs would be put out proclaiming "Le Beaujolais Est Arrivé!" and its consumption was seen as a celebration of another successful harvest. In the 1960s, this style of simple Beaujolais became increasingly popular worldwide with more than half a million cases of being sold. In 1985 the

bonded warehouse till 12:01am when the wines can be first opened and consumed.[11]

Today, about a third of the region's production is sold as Beaujolais Nouveau, a marketing name created by George Duboeuf for the local vin de l'année. It is the lightest, fruitiest style of Beaujolais and meant for simple quaffing. Any Beaujolais or Beaujolais-Villages AOC vineyard can produce Beaujolais Nouveau. The grapes are harvested between late August and early September. It is fermented for just a few days and released to the public on the third Thursday of November - "Beaujolais Nouveau Day". It is the first French wine to be released for each vintage year. In 1992, at its peak, more than half of all Beaujolais wine was sold as "Beaujolais Nouveau".[1] The wines are meant to be drunk as young as possible, when they are at their freshest and fruitiest. They can last up to one or two years but will have lost most of their characteristic flavors by that point.[9]

Viticulture and grape varieties

The Beaujolais region has one of the highest vine density ratios of any major worldwide wine region, with anywhere from 9000 to 13,000 vines per hectare. Most vines are trained in the traditional

chalice. This method has its roots in the Roman style of vine training and has only recently begun to fall out of favor for the guyot method which involves taking a single or double spur and training it out horizontally. Harvest usually occurs in late September and is almost universally done by hand rather than with the use of mechanical harvesters. This is because the Beaujolais wine-making style of carbonic maceration utilizes whole bunches of grape clusters that normally get broken and separated by a mechanical harvester.[1]

The Gamay grape, more accurately known as Gamay noir à Jus blanc to distinguish it from the Gamay

body. The aroma associated with the grape itself is typically red berries.[9]

Since the 1960s, more focus has been placed on the choice of

rootstocks and clonal selection, with six approved clones of Gamay for the wine region. In recent years the rootstock Vialla has gained popularity due to its propensity to produce well in granite soils. The SO4 and 3309 rootstocks also account for significant plantings. Clonal selection of the Gamay grape has shifted towards an emphasis on smaller, thicker-skinned berries.[1]

Winemaking and style

Beaujolais nouveau

Beaujolais wines are produced by the winemaking technique of semi-carbonic maceration. Whole grape clusters are put in cement or stainless steel tanks with capacities between 4,000–30,000 litres (1,100–7,900 US gal). The bottom third of the grapes gets crushed under the weight of gravity and resulting must begins normal

intracellular level. This is caused, in part, by the absence of oxygen in the winemaking environment.[9] This results in a fruity wine without much tannin. In the case of Beaujolais nouveau, this process is completed in as little as four days, with the other AOCs being allowed longer time to ferment. As the grapes ferment longer, they develop more tannins and a fuller body.[1] Maximum length of the cuvaison for Nouveau wines is limited to 10 days.[10]

After fermentation, the must is normally high in

stabilize it is practiced to varying degrees by Beaujolais winemakers. Some producers who make Beaujolais on a large commercial scale will filter the wine aggressively to avoid any impurity or future chemical reactions. This can have the negative side effect of diminishing some of the wine's unique fruit character and leave a flavor that critics have described as Jell-O-like.[11]

Basic Beaujolais is the classic

pear drops. Basic Beaujolais and Beaujolais nouveau are meant to be drunk within a year of their harvest. Beaujolais-Villages are generally consumed within 2–3 years and Cru Beaujolais has the potential to age longer, some not even fully developing till at least 3 years after harvest. Premium examples from Chénas, Juliénas, Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent can spend up to 10 years continuing to develop in the bottle and in very good vintages can take on Burgundian qualities of structure and complexity.[1]

Wine industry

Wine yard in Beaujolais

The Beaujolais wine industry is dominated by the more than 30 négociants who produce nearly 90% of the wine sold outside the Beaujolais region. Many of these négociants are based in Burgundy-such as

co-operatives with a growing amount being estate bottled. Very little of the estate bottled Beaujolais wines are exported into the United States or United Kingdom though a few exporters specialize in this small niche-the most notable being Kermit Lynch and Alain Jugenet.[11]

Serving and food pairing

Light bodied Beaujolais wine, such as Beaujolais-Villages pair well with lighter fare like salads.

Wine expert

served slightly chilled to a lower temperature, the lighter the style. Beaujolais Nouveau, being the lightest style, is served at about 52 °F (11 °C). Beaujolais AOC and Beaujolais-Villages are generally served between 56–57 °F (13–14 °C). Cru Beaujolais, especially the fuller bodied examples, can be treated like red Burgundy wine and served at 60–62 °F (16–17 °C). The wines rarely need to be decanted.[9] In Beaujolais, it is traditional to soak the bottles in buckets of ice water and bring them out to the center villages for picnics and games of boules.[11]

Beaujolais wine can

apéritif with basic Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages doing well with light fare, like picnics and salads. The lighter Cru Beaujolais pair well with poultry and the heavier Crus pairing better with red meats and hearty dishes like stews.[9] In Norway, Beaujolais is a favorite with cod and bacalhau dishes. According to Lyon chef Paul Bocuse, Beaujolais wine is used to make a traditional regional dessert involving a glass of sliced peaches, topped with blackcurrants and drenched in chilled Beaujolais wine.[11]

See also

  • List of Vins de Primeur

References

  1. ^
  2. ^ a b c Styles, Oliver, Decanter.com (June 20, 2005). "'Vin de merde' case closes in favour of freedom of speech".{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
  3. ^
  4. ^ a b c Samuel, Henry. (2006-07-05.) "King of Beaujolais is convicted over adulterated wines." (News website.) Telegraph.co.uk. Retrieved on 2007-10-04.
  5. ^ Walt, Vivienne. (2005-10-03.) "The grapes of wrath." Archived 2008-04-22 at the Wayback Machine (News website.) CNN.com. Retrieved on 2007-10-04.
  6. ^ Trouble ferments in Beaujolais country Daily Telegraph 19 December 2007
  7. ^ https://www.inao.gouv.fr/fichier/Copie-de-SUPERFICIE-ET-RECOLTE-REVENDIQUEE-2010.pdf
  8. ^
  9. ^ a b c d e f g h CAHIER DES CHARGES DE L’APPELLATION D’ORIGINE CONTRÔLÉE BEAUJOLAIS
  10. ^

External links

46°09′N 4°39′E / 46.15°N 4.65°E / 46.15; 4.65