Punjabi clothing

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Punjabi clothing of Lahore, 1890s
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In the ancient

Punjab region, people wore cotton clothing. Both men and women wore knee-length tops. A scarf was worn over the tops which would be draped over the left shoulder and under the right. A large sheet would be further draped over one shoulder which would hang loose towards the knees. Both male and female wore a dhoti around the waist.[1]
Modern Punjabi dress has retained this outfit but over its long history has added other forms of dress.

The

Punjab's rich and vibrant culture in its dresses.[3][4] Various types of dresses are worn based on different Punjabi festivals, local events
and ceremonies.

Along with different traditional dresses special types of ornaments are also very common.[5]

Suthan

Main article: Salwar

The use of the Suthan in the

Mauryan era (322–185 BCE),[10] amongst the ruling classes in North India during the Kushan Empire between the 1st and 3rd centuries C.E,[11] during the Gupta Empire between 4th and 6th centuries C.E.[12] and during Emperor Harsha's rule during the 7th century C.E.[13]

The Punjabi suthan is a direct variation of the svasthana which can either be loose to above the ankles and tight around the ankles, or loose to the knees and tight to the ankles. The suthan is a male and female garment but its use is particularly important in the Punjabi suthan suit whereby it is worn by women with a kurti or kurta. It is also a part of the Punjabi ghagra outfit.[14][15] Other variations include the choga (robe) and suthan combination.[14][15]

  • The Nawab Muhammad Bahawal Khan Abbasi V Bahadur (1883–1907) of Bahawalpur State in suthan
    The Nawab Muhammad Bahawal Khan Abbasi V Bahadur (1883–1907) of Bahawalpur State in suthan
  • Ancient svasthana and varbana outfit worn during Gupta Empire, the basis of the Punjabi suthan suit
    Ancient svasthana and varbana outfit worn during Gupta Empire, the basis of the Punjabi suthan suit
  • Men in British Punjab army in tight and loose Punjabi suthans 1895
    Men in British Punjab army in tight and loose Punjabi suthans 1895
  • Man in tight Punjabi suthan. 1896
    Man in tight Punjabi suthan. 1896
  • 1893. Men in Punjabi tight from knees suthan
    1893. Men in Punjabi tight from knees suthan
  • Men of the British Punjab army in Punjabi churidar suthans 1895 Punjab Hills
    Men of the British Punjab army in Punjabi churidar suthans 1895 Punjab Hills
  • Gupta coin depicting svasthana and angrakshaka with long jutas.
    Gupta coin depicting svasthana and angrakshaka with long jutas.
  • Women in Punjabi suthan 1890
    Women in Punjabi suthan 1890
  • 19th Century Punjabi suthan suit worn by the lady on the right
    19th Century Punjabi suthan suit worn by the lady on the right
  • Punjabi woman in Punjabi suthan and short kurta 1874
    Punjabi woman in Punjabi suthan and short kurta 1874
  • Woman on right in loose Punjabi suthan suit
    Woman on right in loose Punjabi suthan suit
  • A Punjabi woman in Kurti and suthan visiting the Attar, the pharmacist. 1852
    A Punjabi woman in Kurti and suthan visiting the Attar, the pharmacist. 1852
  • Punjab Hills 1895. Kulu woman in Punjabi churidar suthan. Himachal Pradesh.
    Punjab Hills 1895. Kulu woman in Punjabi churidar suthan. Himachal Pradesh.

Kurta

Main article: Kurta

The kurta with its side slits in the Punjabi kurta can be traced to the 11th century C.E.[16]

The straight-cut traditional kurta is known as a panjabi in

Muktsar in Punjab. This modern Punjabi kurta is famous for its slim-fitting cuts and smart fit designs. It is very popular among young politicians.[23]

  • Kurta - Men's
    Kurta - Men's
  • Man in Dhoti Kurta
    Man in Dhoti Kurta
  • Man in blue kurta
    Man in blue kurta
  • kurta
    kurta

Multani kurta

The Multani kurta is crocheted using Sajarak prints of Multan.[24]

Phulkari kurta

A

Punjab region.[25]

  • Patiala Phulkari
    Patiala Phulkari
  • Josephine Powell Collection, voor 1965: Phulkari kurta
    Josephine Powell Collection, voor 1965: Phulkari kurta

Bandhani kurta

Cholistan desert area of Punjab, Pakistan.[26]
Bandhani patterns are used on kurtas.

  • Rohi (Cholistan) woman's bandhani dress Punjab, Pakistan
    Rohi (Cholistan) woman's bandhani dress Punjab, Pakistan

Salwar Kameez

Main article:
Salwar (Punjabi)
Punjabi traditional Salwar in India

A Punjabi suit that features two items - a qameez (top), salwar (bottom) is the traditional attire of the Punjabi people.

national dress,[37] of Pakistan. When women wear the shalwar-kameez in some regions, they usually wear a long scarf or shawl called a dupatta around the head or neck.[38] The dupatta is also employed as a form of modesty—although it is made of delicate material, it obscures the upper body's contours by passing over the shoulders. For Muslim women, the dupatta is a less stringent alternative to the chador or burqa (see hijab and purdah); for Sikh and Hindu women, the dupatta is useful when the head must be covered, as in a temple or the presence of elders.[39] Everywhere in South Asia, modern versions of the attire have evolved; the shalwars are worn lower down on the waist, the kameez have shorter length, with higher splits, lower necklines and backlines, and with cropped sleeves or without sleeves.[40]

The Punjabi suit is popular in other regions of the subcontinent,[41][42] such as Mumbai and Sindh.[43] It is also popular in Afghanistan,[44] where it is called the Punjabi.[45]

Punjabi tamba and kurta

Main article: Punjabi Tamba and Kurta
Bhangra Dance performers in Punjab wearing Kurta and Tehmat.

The Punjabi version of the Dhoti is known as tehmat/tamba or laccha. Whereas the tehmat is of one colour and has no border, the laacha has a border and is variegated so that it has more than one colour.[46]

Kurti

Main article: Kurti top

In modern usage, a short kurta is referred to as the kurti. However, traditionally, the kurti refers to upper garments which sit above the waist without side slits, and are believed to have descended from the tunic of the Shunga period (2nd century B.C.).[47]

In the

Punjabi ghagra
or suthan.

Pothohari suit

Another style of the Punjabi suit is the use of the salwar which hails from the

Punjab region.[1]

Chola

See also: Sikh chola

The Sikh Chola is traditional dress worn by Sikhs.[51][52] It is a martial attire which gives freedom of movement to a Sikh warrior.[53] There are preserved chola relics and artefacts that were worn by the Sikh Gurus.[54] A particular Khilka-type Chola believed to have belonged to Guru Nanak has garnered considerable attention and study.[55] A preserved chola of Guru Hargobind linked to the tale of his release from Gwalior Fort with fifty-two fellow prisoners is believed to be preserved at Ghudani Kalan village in Amritsar district of Punjab, India.[56]

  • Nightwatchman 1878. man in Punjabi chola and Punjabi ghutanna pajama
    Nightwatchman 1878. man in Punjabi chola and Punjabi ghutanna pajama
  • Men wearing modern chola
    Men wearing modern chola
  • Group of nihangs in cholas
    Group of nihangs in cholas

Punjabi ghagra

Main article:
Punjabi ghagra

The

Punjabi ghagra was the traditional apparel for women before the advent of the Punjabi suit. In modern times, the ghagra is worn by women in parts of Haryana, rural parts of south West Punjab,[57] parts of Himachal Pradesh[58] and during performances of Giddha in East Punjab.[59]

The ghagra has its origin in the candataka, which had become a popular garment in the Gupta period.[60] The candataka was a men's half trousers[61] which eventually developed into the ghagra. The intermediate formation has been described as a shirt like dress for men and women from the neck to the thighs.[62][63] Candataka continued as a popular female dress in the seventh century.[64]

  • Statutes of women in kurta
    Statutes of women in kurta
  • Saraiki Tradition women wearing ghagra Punjab, Pakistan
    Saraiki Tradition women wearing ghagra Punjab, Pakistan
  • Punjabi kurta and lehenga
    Punjabi kurta and lehenga
  • Bridal lehenga with Gota Embroidery
    Bridal lehenga with
    Gota Embroidery

Punjabi Juti

Main article: Jutti

The Punjabi Jutti is the Punjabi version of the shoe. Local styles include designs from Patiala,[65] the Pothohari shoe with sharp pointed toes, and the Derawali shoe with silk embroidery and round tipped.[66]

  • Jutti shoes
    Jutti shoes
  • Fazilka jutti
    Fazilka jutti
  • Punjabi jutti for men with extended curved tip, or nokh
    Punjabi jutti for men with extended curved tip, or nokh

Patiala salwar

Main article: Patiala salwar

The Patiala salwar was developed in Patiala and is very popular with women.

  • School girls wearing Patiala Salwar
    School girls wearing Patiala Salwar

Saraiki shalwar suits

Main article: Saraiki shalwar suits

Saraiki shalwar suits are Punjabi outfits which include the Bahawalpuri shalwar suit and the Multani shalwar suit.

Bahawalpuri shalwar suit

The Bahawalpuri shalwar[67] originates from the Bahawalpur region of Punjab, Pakistan. The Bahawalpuri shalwar is very wide and baggy[68] with many voluminous folds.[69] The material traditionally used for the Bahawalpuri shalwar and suthan is known as Sufi which is a mixture of cotton warp mixed with silk weft and gold threads running down the material.[70] The other name for these types of mixed cloth is shuja khani.[71] The Bahawalpuri shalwar is worn with the Bahawalpur style kameez, the Punjabi kurta or chola.[72]

  • Nawab Muhammad Of Bahawalpur (1868-1900) wearing a loose Bahawalpuri shalwar.[67]
    Nawab Muhammad Of Bahawalpur (1868-1900) wearing a loose Bahawalpuri shalwar.[67]
  • Prince Suba Sadiq Abbasi, Bahawalpur
    Prince Suba Sadiq Abbasi, Bahawalpur
  • Bahawalpur kameez
    Bahawalpur kameez
  • Nawab Sadiq Khan Fifth (died 1966)[73] in the Bahawalpuri shalwar
    Nawab Sadiq Khan Fifth (died 1966)[73] in the Bahawalpuri shalwar

Multani shalwar suit

The Multani shalwar, also known as the 'ghaire wali' or 'Saraiki ghaire wali' shalwar as it is very wide around the waist, originates from the

Punjab region.[80]

Fabric prints and embroidery

Block printing on cotton and other materials is popular in

Cholistan, Bahawalpur and Multan are known for its tie-dyeing material which is popular in this region.[83]

The embroidery styles of the

Punjab region also uses mukesh embroidery: mukesh bati-hui, twisted tinsel, gokru, flattened gold wire for embroidery of a heavy kind, and waved mukesh, made by crimping mukesh batihui with iron tongs.[85]

Kangra is known for the patterns embroidered on its handkerchiefs known as Kangra rumal. The designs include representations of religious stories.[1] These rumals are also embroidered in Chamba
.

  • Saraiki Ajrak
    Saraiki Ajrak
  • Cholistan tye-dying
    Cholistan tye-dying
  • Chamba Rumal with Scenes of Gopis Adoring Krishna
    Chamba Rumal with Scenes of Gopis Adoring Krishna
  • Head Cloth (Phulkari)
    Head Cloth (Phulkari)
  • Chamba Rumal with Scenes of Sita and Hanuman
    Chamba Rumal with Scenes of Sita and Hanuman
  • Chamba Rumal with Krishna and Radha
    Chamba Rumal with Krishna and Radha

Phulkari

Main article: Phulkari

The

Punjab region. Although Phulkari means floral work, the designs include not only flowers but also cover motifs and geometrical shapes.[86]

There is reference to Phulkari in ancient texts, folk legends, and literature of Punjab. In Harishcharitra, the biography of the Emperor Harshavardhana (590-647 CE), the last ruler of great ancient Indian Vardhana empire, the seventh-century chronicler Bana wrote, "Some people were embroidering flowers and leaves on the cloth from the reverse side," which is a technical description of Phulkari embroidery.[87] However, the earliest reference to the word Phulkari is in Punjabi literature in the 18th century Waris Shah's version of Heer Ranjha (a legendary Punjabi tragic romance) which describes the wedding trousseau of the female protagonist Heer and lists various clothing items with Phulkari embroidery. The first extensive English publication on Phulkari was by Flora Annie Steel in 1880 where she describes the various styles and exhibited the varieties in picture form.[88] In its present form, Phulkari embroidery has been popular since the 15th century.[89] Pal (1960) believes that no matter its origin, Phulkari work is distinctive and uniquely Punjabi.[90]

  • Phulkari from Patiala
    Phulkari from Patiala
  • 'Phulkari' (bridal shawl), Punjab, early 20th century, cotton, silk and embroidery, Honolulu Academy of Arts
    'Phulkari' (bridal shawl), Punjab, early 20th century, cotton, silk and embroidery, Honolulu Academy of Arts
  • Phulkari from Punjab, India, 20th century, khadi, silk, plain weave, embroidery, Honolulu Museum of Art
    Phulkari from Punjab, India, 20th century, khadi, silk, plain weave, embroidery, Honolulu Museum of Art
  • Bridal shawl (phulkari) from Punjab, khadi (hand-spun, hand-woven cotton), silk, plain weave, embroidery, Honolulu Museum of Art
    Bridal shawl (phulkari) from Punjab, khadi (hand-spun, hand-woven cotton), silk, plain weave, embroidery, Honolulu Museum of Art

Luanchari

Luanchari is a full-dress made of two parts stitched together: the upper part is the choli and the lower is the lehanga.[91] It is traditional garment worn by Gaddis of Himachal Pradesh.[91]

  • Pahari painting depicting women in Luanchari. ca.1760
    Pahari painting depicting women in Luanchari. ca.1760
  • Himachal woman in Luanchari
    Himachal woman in Luanchari

Punjabi ghuttana

The Punjabi ghuttana was popular with women and men in the

Jammu
.

  • Men and boys wearing a knee length variation of the Punjabi ghuttana[93] and Dogri kurta. The full suthan is tight from the knees to the ankles
    Men and boys wearing a knee length variation of the Punjabi ghuttana[93] and Dogri kurta. The full suthan is tight from the knees to the ankles

Churidar pajama

The use of the

Punjab region however, its use was amongst the general population.[95]

The

sussi (cotton) material, in blue with vertical stripes.[98]

The churidar pajama is also known as the (full length) ghuttana.[99] When soldiers from Lucknow travelled to the British Punjab province, they saw the long ghuttana pajama and adopted its use in Lucknow during the 19th century.

  • Cotton churidar worn with silk side-opening kurta and mojari shoes
    Cotton churidar worn with silk side-opening kurta and mojari shoes
  • Portrait of Kashmiri children wearing churidar pyjamas circa 1890
    Portrait of Kashmiri children wearing churidar pyjamas circa 1890
  • Cotton churidar with cotton kurta and Khadi Nehru jacket
    Cotton churidar with cotton kurta and Khadi Nehru jacket
  • 19th century Indian women wearing transparent skirts over churidar pants
    19th century Indian women wearing transparent skirts over churidar pants

Jama

Main article:
Jama costume

The

Punjab region during the Mughal period. The phrase "jora jama" refers to the clothes given by the maternal uncle to the groom,[100] which points to the jama being part of Punjabi clothing (although grooms do not wear the jama now). A local style of shawl called the jamawar which was striped was used as a gown.[101][102]

  • The commander of the Imperial Guard of Delhi
    The commander of the Imperial Guard of Delhi
  • Ghulam Murtaza Khan The Delhi Darbar of Akbar II
    Ghulam Murtaza Khan The Delhi Darbar of Akbar II
  • Raja Ravi Varma, Maharaja Fateh Singh
    Raja Ravi Varma, Maharaja Fateh Singh
  • Akbar and Tansen visit Haridas
    Akbar and Tansen visit Haridas
  • Mughal Army artillerymen during the reign of Akbar.
    Mughal Army artillerymen during the reign of Akbar
    .
  • Officer of the Mughal Army, c.1585 (colour litho)
    Officer of the Mughal Army, c.1585 (colour litho)

Anga/Angarkha

Main article: Angarkha

The anga (robe) also known as an angarkha[103][104] and peshwaj)[105] is similar to a loose coat and wadded with cotton.[106] The anga can be worn by men and women. When worn by men, it falls to below the knees, is a loose tunic[107] and is fastened either to the right of the left.[108] An angarkha typically does not have front buttons.[109] Grooms traditionally wore the angarkha which has now been superseded by the achkan. The anga worn by women is a long robe.

  • Ranjit Singh Equestrian in Saffron Robe
    Ranjit Singh Equestrian in Saffron Robe
  • A watercolor portrait of Ranjit Singh who wore the angarkha during his reign.[110]
    A watercolor portrait of Ranjit Singh who wore the angarkha during his reign.[110]

Chamba angarkhi

The Chamba angarkhi of Himachal Pradesh is sewen tight at the torso, but below the waist it has an open fall like the modern skirt. The angarkhi is tied at the waist with a sash.[111]

Turban

See also: Dastar

Men traditionally wear the turban. In the past, large turbans were worn such as the type in Bahawalpur which could be up to 40 feet long.[1] Now the turbans are shorter of various designs.

Kalgi

  • Kalgi placed on groom's turban
    Kalgi placed on groom's turban

A sign of royalty that is placed on the turban, in place of a jeweled crown.

Khes

Main article: Khes

Khes is a stout damask cloth used for winter wraps,[112] generally weaved with coarse yarns made of cotton. It is a simple clothing item to wear loosely. Khes is a comfort object used in bedding and also as like a shawl- wrap[113] by men in Punjab, India, and Pakistan to cover upper body parts.[114][115][116][117][118] Khes was an important cloth of Punjab province.[119]

Loyi

The Loyi is a lightweight fabric draped by men and women to preserve heat in cool/chilly environments. It is often worn with other desi wear.

Paranda

Punjabi girl wearing Paranda in her hairs

Paranda or parandi is hair accessory worn by women in Punjab.[120]

Saluka

The saluka is a tight fitting waistcoat which was worn in

Punjab region.[121] It is also worn in Uttar Pradesh
.

See also

References

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  5. ^ "Traditional Dresses of Punjab | Traditional Punjabi Attire". Discoveredindia.com. Retrieved 2015-05-17.
  6. ^ Catherine Ella Blanshard Asher, Thomas R. Metcalf (1994) Perceptions of South Asia's visual past [2]
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  16. ^ Ghurye, Govind Sadashiv (1966) Indian Costume
  17. ISBN 978-1-84331-225-3
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  18. ISBN 978-0-203-09687-1
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  19. ^ Punjab District Gazetteers: Attock district, 1930. Printed 1932
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  27. ISBN 978-981-4022-33-0
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  28. ISBN 978-90-04-25524-1
    , The shalwar kamiz was worn traditionally by Muslim women and gradually adopted by many Hindu women following the Muslim conquest of northern India. Eventually, it became the regional style for parts of northern India, as in Punjab where it has been worn for centuries.
  29. ISBN 0-8014-8807-9
    , Even highly educated women pursuing careers continue to wear traditional dress in urban India, although men of similar status long ago adopted Western attire. The forms of dress most popular with urban Indian women are the sari, the long wrapped and draped dress-like garment, worn throughout India, and the salwar-kameez or kurta-pyjama, a two-piece suit garment, sometimes also called Punjabi because of its region of origin. Whereas the sari can be considered the national dress of Indian women, the salwar-kameez, though originally from the north, has been adopted all over India as more comfortable attire than the sari.
  30. ISBN 978-0-19-960110-3
    , Salwar/Shalwar: A pair of light, loose, pleated trousers, usually tapering to a tight fit around the ankles, worn by women from South Asia typically with a kameez (the two together being a salwar kameez). Origin From Persian and Urdu šalwār.
  31. ISBN 978-0-19-960110-3
    , Kameez: A long tunic worn by many people from South Asia, typically with a salwar or churidars. Origin: From Arabic qamīṣ, perhaps from late Latin camisia (see chemise).
  32. ^ Platts, John Thompson (February 2015) [1884], A dictionary of Urdu, classical Hindi, and English (online ed.), London: W. H. Allen & Co., p. 418, archived from the original on 2021-02-24, retrieved 2023-05-08
  33. ISBN 978-0-253-02121-2
    . You can buy an entire three-piece salwar suit, or a two-piece suit that consists of either a readymade kurta or a kurta cloth piece, each with a matching dupatta. For these, you must have the salwar pants stitched from cloth you buy separately. A third option would be to buy a two-piece ensemble, consisting of the top and pants, leaving you the task of buying an appropriate dupatta, or using one you already own, or buying a strip of cloth and having it dyed to your desire. The end result will always be a three-piece ensemble, but a customer may start with one piece (only the kurta) or two pieces (kurta and pants, or kurta and dupatta), and exercise her creativity and fashion sense to end up with the complete salwar kurta outfit.
  34. ISBN 978-0-8020-9257-1
    , The salwar-kameez is a form of dress that has been adopted widely in Punjab and is now known in English as the Punjabi suit; J. P. S. Uberoi suggests that the salwar-kameez is an Afghani import to Punjab (1998 personal communication). Punjabi forms of dress are therefore constructs or inventions of tradition rather than having historical veracity.
  35. ISBN 978-1-139-44837-6
    . The village's men and boys largely dress in sombre colours in the loose trousers and long shirt (shalwar kameez) worn across Pakistan. Older men often wear woollen Chitrali caps (pakol), waistcoats and long coats (chugha), made by Chitrali tailors (darzi) who skills are renowned across Pakistan.
  36. ISBN 978-1-136-44997-0
    , the shalwar kameez happens to be worn by just about everyone in Pakistan, including in all of Gilgit-Baltistan.
  37. ISBN 978-1-317-13051-2
    . What is common in all the cases is the wearing of shalwar, kameez, and dupatta, the national dress of Pakistan.
  38. ISBN 978-1-85856-353-4
    .
  39. ISBN 978-0-253-02121-2
    , Muslim and Punjabi women—whether Muslim, Sikh, or Hindu—often wear the dupatta over the head to create a modest look while framing the face with color. When entering a temple, Hindu women might comparably use their dupattas to cover their heads. Though the dupatta is often made of flimsy cloth and does not actually cover the body, its presence implies modesty, like many of the outer garments worn by Muslim women that do not cover much but do provide a symbolic extra layer, ...
  40. ISBN 978-1-351-87667-4
    , The Pakistani National dress worn by women is Shalwar Kameez. This consists of a long tunic (Kameez) teamed with a wide legged trouser (Shalwar) that skims in at the bottom accompanied by a duppata, which is a less stringent alternative to the burqa. Modern versions of this National dress have evolved into less modest versions. Shalwar have become more low cut so that the hips are visible and are worn with a shorter length of Kameez which has high splits and may have a lowcut neckline and backline as well as being sleeveless or having cropped sleeves.
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