Suffolk

Coordinates: 52°12′N 1°00′E / 52.200°N 1.000°E / 52.200; 1.000
Source: Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.
This article is about the county in England. For other uses, see Suffolk (disambiguation).

Suffolk
Non-metropolitan and ceremonial county
The village of Orford from
33rd of 48
Density202/km2 (520/sq mi)
Ethnicity
97.2% White
Non-metropolitan county
County councilSuffolk County Council
ControlConservative
Admin HQIpswich
Area3,800 km2 (1,500 sq mi)
 • Rank4th of 21
Population 
(2022)[3]
768,555
 • Rank14th of 21
Density202/km2 (520/sq mi)
ISO 3166-2GB-SFK
GSS codeE10000029
ITLUKH14
Websitesuffolk.gov.uk
Districts

Districts of Suffolk
Districts
  1. Ipswich
  2. East Suffolk
  3. Mid Suffolk
  4. Babergh
  5. West Suffolk

Suffolk (

ceremonial county in the East of England and East Anglia. It is bordered by Norfolk to the north, the North Sea to the east, Essex to the south, and Cambridgeshire to the west. Ipswich is the largest settlement and the county town
.

The county has an area of 3,798 km2 (1,466 sq mi) and a population of 758,556. After Ipswich (144,957) in the south, the largest towns are Lowestoft (73,800) in the northeast and Bury St Edmunds (40,664) in the west. Suffolk contains five local government districts, which are part of a two-tier non-metropolitan county administered by Suffolk County Council.

The Suffolk coastline, which includes parts of the Suffolk & Essex Coast & Heaths National Landscape, is a complex habitat, formed by London Clay and crag underlain by chalk and therefore susceptible to erosion. It contains several deep estuaries, including those of the rivers Blyth, Deben, Orwell, Stour, and Alde/Ore; the latter is 25.5 km (15.8 mi) long and separated from the North Sea by Orford Ness, a large spit.

Large parts of the coast are backed by heath and wetland habitats, such as Sandlings.[4] The northeast of the county contains part of the Broads, a network of rivers and lakes which is a national park. Inland, the landscape is flat and gently undulating, and contains part of Thetford Forest on the Norfolk border and Dedham Vale National Landscape on the Essex border.

It is also known for its extensive

farming and has largely arable land. Newmarket is known for horse racing, and Felixstowe is one of the largest container ports in Europe.[5]

History

Main article: History of Suffolk

Administration

The Anglo-Saxon settlement of Suffolk, and East Anglia generally, occurred on a large scale,[6] possibly following a period of depopulation by the previous inhabitants, the Romanised descendants of the Iceni.[7] By the fifth century, they had established control of the region. The Anglo-Saxon inhabitants later became the "north folk" and the "south folk", from which developed the names "Norfolk" and "Suffolk".[8]

Suffolk was divided into four separate

Quarter Sessions divisions, which met at Beccles, Bury St Edmunds, Ipswich and Woodbridge.[9] In 1860, the number of divisions was reduced to two, when the Beccles, Ipswich and Woodbridge divisions merged into an East Suffolk division, administered from Ipswich, and the old Bury St Edmunds division became the West Suffolk division.[10] Under the Local Government Act 1888, the two divisions were made the separate administrative counties of East Suffolk and West Suffolk;[11]

On 1 April 1974, under the

East Suffolk district.[14]

Archaeology

Excavation of the Sutton Hoo burial ship in 1939

West Suffolk, like nearby East Cambridgeshire, is renowned for archaeological finds from the Stone Age, the Bronze Age, and the Iron Age. Bronze Age artefacts have been found in the area between Mildenhall and West Row, in Eriswell and in Lakenheath.[15]

In the east of the county is

Anglo-Saxon archaeological finds, a ship burial containing a collection of treasures including a sword of state, helmet, gold and silver bowls, jewellery and a lyre.[16]

The Hoxne Hoard, to date the largest assembly of late Roman silver and gold discovered in Britain, was found near the village of Hoxne in 1992.

While carrying out surveys before installing a pipeline in 2014, archaeologists for

Post-Roman Britain. Experts said the five-month project had recovered enough artefacts to fill half a shipping container, and that the discoveries had shed new light on their understanding of the development of small rural communities.[17]

In 2019 an excavation of a 4th-century

decapitated, which archaeologists claimed gave new insight into Roman traditions. The burial ground includes the remains of men, women and children who likely lived in a nearby settlement. The fact that up to 40% of the bodies were decapitated represents "quite a rare find".[18]

A survey in 2020 named Suffolk the third best place in the UK for aspiring archaeologists, and showed that the area was especially rich in finds from the Roman period, with over 1500 objects found in the preceding year.[19]

In July 2020, metal detectorist Luke Mahoney found 1,061 silver hammered coins, estimated to be worth £100,000, in Ipswich. The coins dated back to the 15th–17th century, according to experts.[20]

In 2020, archaeologists discovered a 7th century Anglo-Saxon cemetery with 17 cremations and 191 burials in Oulton, near Lowestoft. The graves contained the remains of men, women and children, as well as artefacts including small iron knives, silver pennies, wrist clasps, strings of amber and glass beads. According to Andrew Peachey, who carried out the excavations, the skeletons had mostly vanished because of the highly acidic soil. They were preserved as brittle shapes and "sand silhouettes".[21][22]

Suffolk Pink

16th century cottage in Ixworth, with pargetting and traditional Suffolk Pink limewash

Villages and towns in Suffolk are renowned for historic, pink-washed halls and cottages, which has become known far and wide as "Suffolk Pink". Decorative paint colours found in the county can range from a pale shell shade, to a deep blush brick colour.[23]

According to research, Suffolk Pink dates back to the 14th century, when these shades were developed by local dyers by adding natural substances to a traditional

sloe
juice.

Locals and historians often state that a true Suffolk Pink should be a "deep dusky terracotta shade",[24] rather than the more popular pastel hue of modern times. This has caused controversy in the past when home and business-owners alike have been reprimanded for using colours deemed incorrect, with some being forced to repaint to an acceptable shade. In 2013, famous chef Marco Pierre White had his 15th-century hotel, The Angel, in Lavenham, decorated a shade of pink that was not traditional Suffolk Pink. He was required by local authorities to repaint.[25][26]

In another example of Suffolk taking its colours seriously, a homeowner in Lavenham was obligated to paint their Grade I listed cottage Suffolk Pink, to make it match a neighbouring property. The local council said it wanted all of the cottages on that particular part of the road to be the same colour, because they were a single building historically (300 years earlier).[27]

The historic Suffolk Pink colour has also inspired the name of a British apple.[28]

Geography

River Stour at Dedham Vale National Landscape
Hand-drawn map of Suffolk by Christopher Saxton from 1573

Suffolk is also home to nature reserves, such as the

RSPB site at Minsmere, and Trimley Marshes, a wetland under the protection of Suffolk Wildlife Trust. The clay plateau inland, deeply intercut by rivers, is often referred to as 'High Suffolk'.[29]

The west of the county lies on more resistant Cretaceous chalk. This chalk is responsible for a sweeping tract of largely downland landscapes that stretches from Dorset in the south west to Dover in the south east and north through East Anglia to the Yorkshire Wolds. The chalk is less easily eroded so forms the only significant hills in the county. The highest point in the county is Great Wood Hill, with an elevation of 128 metres (420 ft).[30]

The county flower is the

oxlip.[31]

Demography

See also: List of places in Suffolk
Ickworth House close to Bury St Edmunds

According to estimates by the Office for National Statistics, the population of Suffolk in 2014 was 738,512, split almost evenly between males and females. Roughly 22% of the population was aged 65 or older, and 90.84% were White British.[32]

Historically, the county's population has mostly been employed as agricultural workers. An 1835 survey showed Suffolk to have 4,526 occupiers of land employing labourers, 1,121 occupiers not employing labourers, 33,040 labourers employed in agriculture, 676 employed in manufacture, 18,167 employed in retail trade or handicraft, 2,228 'capitalists, bankers etc.', 5,336 labourers (non-agricultural), 4,940 other males aged over 20, 2,032 male servants and 11,483 female servants.[33]

A traditional nickname for people from Suffolk is "Suffolk Fair-Maids", referring to the supposed beauty of its female inhabitants in the Middle Ages.[34] Another is "Silly Suffolk", often assumed to be derived from the Old English word sælig in the meaning "blessed", referring to the long history of Christianity in the county.[35] However, use of the term "Silly Suffolk" can actually be dated to no earlier than 1819, and its alleged medieval origins have been shown to be mythical.[36]

Rank Town Population
(2011)		 Borough/District council
1 Ipswich 133,384 Ipswich Borough Council
2 Lowestoft 71,000 East Suffolk Council
3 Bury St Edmunds 42,000 West Suffolk Council
4 Haverhill 27,041 West Suffolk Council
5 Felixstowe 23,689 East Suffolk Council
6 Newmarket 20,384 West Suffolk Council

Economy

Willis Building
in Ipswich, a landmark office building in the town

The majority of agriculture in Suffolk is either

linseed, although smaller areas of rye and oats can be found growing in areas with lighter soils along with a variety of vegetables.[37]

The continuing importance of agriculture in the county is reflected in the Suffolk Show, which is held annually in May at Ipswich. Although latterly somewhat changed in nature, this remains primarily an agricultural show.[38]

Companies based in Suffolk include

BT Group plc has its main research and development facility at Martlesham Heath
.

Regional gross value added of Suffolk at basic prices with figures in millions of British Pounds Sterling.[39]
Year Regional gross value added[fn 1] Agriculture[fn 2] Industry[fn 3] Services[fn 4]
1995 7,113 391 2,449 4,273
2000 8,096 259 2,589 5,248
2003 9,456 270 2,602 6,583

Education

See also: List of schools in Suffolk

Primary, secondary and further education

Suffolk has a

middle schools (ages 9–13) and upper schools (ages 13–16). However, a 2006 Suffolk County Council study concluded that Suffolk should move to the two-tier school system used in the majority of the UK.[40] For the purpose of conversion to two-tier, the three-tier system was divided into four geographical area groupings and corresponding phases. The first phase was the conversion of schools in Lowestoft and Haverhill in 2011, followed by schools in north and west Suffolk in 2012. The remainder of the changeovers to two-tier took place from 2013, for those schools that stayed within local government control, and did not become Academies and/or free schools
. The majority of schools thus now (2019) operate the more common primary to high school (11–16).

Many of the county's upper schools have a sixth form and most further education colleges in the county offer A-level courses. In terms of school population, Suffolk's individual schools are large with the Ipswich district with the largest school population and Forest Heath the smallest, with just two schools. In 2013, a letter said that "...nearly a fifth of the schools inspected were judged inadequate. This is unacceptable and now means that Suffolk has a higher proportion of pupils educated in inadequate schools than both the regional and national averages."[41]

The Royal Hospital School near Ipswich is the largest independent boarding school in Suffolk. Other boarding schools within Suffolk include Barnardiston Hall Preparatory School, Culford School, Finborough School, Framlingham College, Ipswich High School, Ipswich School, Orwell Park School, Saint Felix School and Woodbridge School
.

The Castle Partnership Academy Trust in Haverhill is the county's only All-through Academy Chain. Comprising Castle Manor Academy and Place Farm Primary Academy, the Academy Trust supports all-through education and provides opportunities for young people aged 3 to 18.

Easton & Otley College, Suffolk New College and Northgate Sixth Form (Ipswich), Abbeygate Sixth Form, Thurston Community College (Beyton Campus) and West Suffolk College
(Bury St Edmunds).

Tertiary education

The county has one university, the University of Suffolk, which became an independent institution with degree awarding powers and university status in 2016.[42] The university operates at five sites, with its central hub in Ipswich. Others include Lowestoft, Bury St. Edmunds, and Great Yarmouth in Norfolk.[43] The university is organised in four academic schools[44] and in 2022/23 had 13,700 students. 88% of the student body are aged over 21 and 46% of university students are male.[45]

Culture

Arts

maltings
, now converted into a world-famous concert venue

Founded in 1948 by

Snape Maltings since 1967.[46] Since 2006, Henham Park, has been home to the annual Latitude Festival
. This mainly open-air festival, which has grown considerably in size and scope, includes popular music, comedy, poetry and literary events.

The FolkEast festival is held at Glemham Hall in August[47] and attracts international acoustic, folk and roots musicians whilst also championing local businesses, heritage and crafts. In 2015 it was also home to the first instrumental festival of musical instruments and makers.[48] More recently, LeeStock Music Festival has been held in Sudbury.[49] A celebration of the county, "Suffolk Day", was instigated in 2017.[50]

Dialect

The

yod-dropping is common, along with non-conjugation of verbs.[51]

Sport

Football

The county's sole professional

draught horse native to the county. The next highest ranked team in Suffolk is Needham Market
, who participate in the National League North, the sixth tier of English football.

Horse racing

The town of

Point to point racing takes place at Higham and Ampton.[56]

Speedway

National League team Mildenhall Fen Tigers are also from Suffolk.[58]

Cricket

MCCA Knockout Trophy once.[60] Home games are played in Bury St Edmunds, Copdock, Exning, Framlingham, Ipswich and Mildenhall.[61]

Flag

Flag of Suffolk
Main article: Flag of Suffolk

The Suffolk flag is a

king of East Anglia
. It consists of two gold arrows passing through a gold crown or with heraldic description as Azure two Arrows in saltire, points downwards, enfiled with an ancient Crown Or.

Bank of the River Orwell
Framingham Castle, the setting which inspired Ed Sheeran's "Castle on the Hill" song

Novels set in Suffolk include parts of

"The Mildenhall Treasure" is set in Mildenhall.[63]

A TV series about a British antiques dealer,

Space Cadets was filmed in Rendlesham Forest, although the producers fooled participants into believing that they were in Russia.[65] Several towns and villages in the county have been used for location filming of other television programmes and cinema films. These include the BBC Four TV series Detectorists,[66] an episode of Kavanagh QC, and the films Iris and Drowning by Numbers. During the period 2017–2018, a total of £3.8million was spent by film crews in Suffolk.[67]

The

Roswell".[68]

The song "Castle on the Hill" by Ed Sheeran was referred to by him as "a love letter to Suffolk", with lyrical references to his hometown of Framlingham and Framlingham Castle.[69][70]

Knype Hill is the fictional name for Southwold in George Orwell's 1935 novel A Clergyman's Daughter, while the character of Dorothy Hare is modelled on Brenda Salkeld, the gym mistress at St Felix School in the early 1930s.[71]

Richard Curtis and Danny Boyle's 2019 romantic comedy Yesterday was filmed throughout Suffolk, using Halesworth, Dunwich, Shingle Street and Latitude Festival as locations.[72] The television series of Anthony Horowitz's Magpie Murders was filmed extensively in Suffolk during 2021.

The 2021 film The Dig, based on the excavation of Sutton Hoo in the 1930s and starring Ralph Fiennes and Carey Mulligan was mostly shot on location.

The 2022 series

witch trials of the English Civil War
.

Media

The county is covered by the BBC East and ITV Anglia television regions.

The BBC local radio station for the county is BBC Radio Suffolk, broadcast from its studios in Ipswich. Local commercial radio stations serving the county include Heart East, Nation Radio Suffolk, Greatest Hits Radio East and Star Radio (only covering Haverhill). Community radio stations include RWSfm 103.3 in Bury St Edmunds; Ipswich Community Radio; Zack FM in Mildenhall; Park Radio in Diss and Eye; and Felixstowe Radio.

Local newspapers include the Suffolk Chronicle, East Anglian Daily Times and Eastern Daily Press.

Notable people

National Gallery
in London, depicts the Suffolk landscape of his time

In the arts, Suffolk is noted for having been home to two of England's best regarded painters,

Dame Elizabeth Frink, Cedric Morris who ran the East Anglian School, Philip Wilson Steer, and the cartoonist Carl Giles (a bronze statue of his character "Grandma" is located in Ipswich town centre); the poets George Crabbe[76] and Robert Bloomfield were both born in Suffolk;[77] farmer and writer Adrian Bell, writer and literary editor Ronald Blythe, V. S. Pritchett, the authors Ralph Hammond Innes and Ruth Rendell
all lived in the county.

The writer

Brit Award winners the Darkness
hail from Lowestoft.

Sir John Mills spent periods of his youth in the county. The designer David Hicks lived for a number of years in Suffolk. Model Claudia Schiffer and her husband, the film director Matthew Vaughn
, have owned a house in Suffolk since 2002.

Suffolk's contributions to sport include

MMA fighter Arnold Allen was born in Suffolk. Fabio Wardley
English heavyweight champion is also from Suffolk.

Significant ecclesiastical figures from Suffolk include Simon Sudbury, a former archbishop of Canterbury;[82] former Lord Chancellor Thomas Wolsey hailed from Ipswich;[83] and author, poet and Benedictine monk John Lydgate.[84] Richard Hakluyt the great recorder of exploration and voyages was a clergyman in Wetheringsett. Edward FitzGerald, the first translator of the Rubaiyat of Omar Khayyam, was born in Bredfield. The abolitionists Thomas Clarkson and Richard Dykes Alexander both lived near Ipswich. The agriculturist Arthur Young had a long-standing association with the county.

Other significant persons from Suffolk include the great

Jane Walker ran the East Anglian Sanatorium above the banks of the River Stour, and charity leader Sue Ryder settled in Suffolk and based her charity in Cavendish
.

The popular Victorian novelist

wild swimmer and environmentalist Roger Deakin
.

Edmund of East Anglia

King of

St George in the 13th century. 2006 saw the failure of a campaign to have St Edmund named the patron saint of England. In 2007 he was named the patron saint of Suffolk, with St Edmund's Day falling on 20 November. His flag
is flown in Suffolk on that day.

See also

Notes

  1. ^ Components may not sum to totals due to rounding
  2. ^ includes hunting and forestry
  3. ^ includes energy and construction
  4. ^ includes financial intermediation services indirectly measured

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