Architecture of Wales

Source: Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.

Architecture of Wales is an overview of

. It covers the history of domestic, commercial, and administrative architecture.

There is little evidence for domestic architecture predating the 14th century in Wales. Earliest architecture includes tower houses and first floor halls as well as early stone buildings. There are still some timber frame constructions that still exist that date back to the 12th century, the earliest being at Chepstow Castle.

 Mae Cymru yn drysorfa o adeiladu arbenig ....dim ond trwy astudio hanes pensaerniol rydym ni'n cael darllen clir osit oedd pobl yn byw o gyfnod i gyfnod
(Wales is a treasure trove of superb buildings ...only by studying Wales's architectural history do we get a clear picture of how people lived from one period to the next)

Quoted in Cyflwyno Cartrefi Cefn Gwlad/ Introducing Houses of the Welsh Countryside

Suggett R & Stevenson G, Y Lolfa 2010
The Pierhead Building, Cardiff
Hensol Castle
Nanteos Lodge by the architect R K Penson, 1857
St Giles' Church, Wrexham (geograph 4885639 cropped).jpg
St Giles' Church, Wrexham

Earliest architecture

There is little evidence of domestic architecture in Wales that predates the 14th century.

timber-framed houses can be securely dated to before 1400, but the description by the poet Iolo Goch of Owain Glyndŵr's house at Sycharth shows that houses with timber cruck framing were being built well before this date. It has been suggested that the devastation caused following Owain Glyndŵr's revolt may have caused the destruction of many earlier timber-framed houses in the Welsh Marches[3]

Peles Tower Angle

Tower houses and first floor halls

The distribution of tower houses in Wales has been discussed by both Hilling and Smith. Welsh tower houses, most of them built during the 14th and 15th centuries, were rectangular structures, consisting of two or more storeys, and are closely related to those in Ireland and Scotland. In 1976 Hilling produced a map (with listing) showing 17 examples.[4] Further houses have been added by Suggett and it is possible that new examples will be recognised as being incorporated into existing buildings, as at Sandyhaven House in Pembrokeshire.[5]

A further example is likely to be the prominent East Gate tower of

Gothic Revival battlements.[6] Also on the Welsh border, close to Welshpool is Wattlesburgh. Many of the English tower houses, such as Tattershall Castle or Buckden Palace
are slightly later and larger than the Welsh examples, and built of brick.

Apart from tower houses, there are a number of stone-built first floor hall buildings, where the hall is mounted over an

Owain Glyndŵr's Parliament House in Machynlleth. Most examples are found in southern Wales with a cluster of buildings in Pembrokeshire. The distribution of Tower and other houses in Wales with vaulted ceilings have been mapped and listed by Peter Smith.[7]

They also occur as early merchant's houses in

Medieval stone houses at East Orchard, St Athan, in Glamorgan which belonged to the de Berkerolles family in the 14th century. The group of buildings includes a first floor hall house with an outside chimney, which also had a separate kitchen block.[10]

Early stone buildings and transition from castles

Raglan Castle, Monmouthshire
Internal view of Carew castle

From the later part of the 15th century, some of the Welsh castles underwent a transformation into grand houses. Some of these such as

Sir John Perrot, who replaced the north range with a splendid frontage with a long gallery at the second floor level in the fashion of Robert Smythson.[11]

An even more impressive residence on a palatial scale was Raglan Castle. The earliest building is the freestanding hexagonal great tower, which is surrounded by a moat. It was probably built by Sir William ap Thomas before 1445. It would have served the function of a strongly defended tower house. This was followed in 1461–1469 by the enlargement of the castle by Sir William Herbert with a gatehouse to the NE and to the SW a range of sumptuously decorated state apartments. Further apartment ranges were built around the SW court. The two sets of apartments were approached by an impressive main staircase. From about 1549 to 1559 these buildings were extended, by William Somerset, 3rd Earl of Worcester, particularly around the "Pitched Stone" Court and also with the long gallery with its elaborately decorated Renaissance fireplaces. The slighting of the castle in the English Civil War and its subsequent partial demolition make it hard to appreciate Raglan as one of the major domestic buildings of Wales.[12]

Another early house connected with the Herbert family was

Breconshire. It was here that William Herbert settled his stepbrother Roger Vaughan who built a house, which was to develop around a courtyard and continued being added to until the 17th century. Recently the arched braced truss roof of the great hall has been dated by Dendrochronology to c. 1455.[13]

Timber-framed construction

Timber-framed houses in Wales are concentrated particularly in the historic counties of Montgomeryshire and Denbighshire and mainly in areas which lack good building stone but have an abundance of ancient woodland that provided the timber for construction. The Welsh Poets often provide good descriptions of these early houses from the 14th century onwards, when praising their patrons. This is the case of Iolo Goch's description of Owain Glyndŵr's house at Sycharth in the late 14th century when the poet mentioned that the house was constructed with crucks and had a slate roof.[14]

Dendrochronology and the dating of Welsh houses

Since the 1990s the availability of dates provided by tree-ring dating or dendrochronology has revolutionised the study of early buildings in Wales and is particularly relevant for timber-framed buildings. The earliest tree ring date associated with a building in Wales is a date commissioned by Cadw for a door at Chepstow Castle which was made from wood felled between 1159 and 1189.[15]

timber-framed houses were built with cruck trusses, while a few higher-status houses were constructed with aisled trusses. Change came in the mid-16th century when houses became two or more storeyed. Regional forms of houses evolved and some are now stone-built. The earliest stone-built "Snowdonia House", with an upper storey, is Tyn Llan at Gwyddelwern, which has been shown by dendrochronology to date from 1519 to 1537.[20]

Aisled hall houses

Plas Uchaf, Llangar, Corwen. Aisled hall
Althrey Hall, Bangor on Dee. Watercolour by John Ingleby 1794

Aisled-framed hall houses have one or more rows of interior posts. These interior posts typically carry more structural load than the posts in the exterior walls. Aisled Hall houses are early in the sequence of timber-framed houses and were high status dwellings. In his study of these houses Peter Smith recorded 20 examples of this construction, mainly in NE Wales and particularly in Denbighshire.[21] In some cases such as

incomplete short citation
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Tŷ Mawr, Castle Caereinion

Aisled hall houses in Wales have been dated by dendrochronology to the 15th century, though examples in England are often earlier. Some of the aisled houses such as the Upper House at

Ty Mawr, Castle Caereinion in Montgomeryshire. This house has been dated to 1460 by dendrochronology and was owned by the Alo ap Rhiwallon family (who had settled there in the 13th century), and the builder of Tŷ Mawr was probably Dafydd ap Gwilym, the great-great-grandson of Alo ap Rhiwallon.[24]

Cruck construction

Cruck Barn at Ty-coch Llangynhafal, Denbighshire. Dated to 1430.

The Vernacular Architecture Group currently has records of 1002 historic

jettied houses in the mid-15th century, the use of crucks gradually went out of fashion. At this time many cruck houses were converted into barns and evidence for fireplaces and chimney stacks stripped. A good example of a house that has been converted into a barn, possibly as late as the 18th century is at Ty-coch Llangynhafal, Denbighshire. This has recently been restored by Denbighshire County Council and it has been dated to 1430.[28] There are many instances in Montgomeryshire where more elaborate timber framed farmhouses are associated on the same site with earlier houses that were converted into barns. At Rhyd y Carw in Trefeglwys the original cruck framed hall house dated to about 1525[29] while nearby stands the impressively decorated box-framed Rhydycarw farmhouse dating from the earlier part of the 17th century.[30]

Regional types of sub-medieval houses

Kennixton Farmhouse, reconstructed at St Fagans

The idea of the Sub-Medieval House in Wales was first developed by

jettied out from the building line. Fox and Raglan considered that in Monmouthshire, the building of "Sub-Medieval" houses continued until around 1620.[32]

Llancaiach Fawr

An excellent example of a Sub Medieval house is Llancaeach-Fawr at Gelligaer in Glamorgan. John Newman comments that in contrast with other buildings of the period "it is a delight to find one so nearly perfectly preserved". It is of three storeys and largely of a single build period. It was built by either Richard ap Lewis or his son David ap Richard (Prichard), who was resident here in the 1530s. The windows emphasise the importance of the first floor rooms.[33]

The ideas of Fox and Raglan were developed by Peter Smith in his study of Houses of the Welsh Countryside, first published in 1975 and re-issued as an enlarged addition in 1988. Smith classifies five main types of "Sub-Medieval" houses based on the position of the chimney or chimneys and the position of the main entrance door.[34] These groups are:

  • Type A, Houses with Lateral Chimneys heating the hall of the house or end gable houses. These occur in northern and southern areas of Wales but rarely in the central areas.[35] The end gable houses include the Snowdonia Houses of north Wales
  • Type B. Houses with the chimney backing on the entry. The chimneys are placed centrally in the house and the entrance may lead into a screen passage at the back of the fireplace.[36]
  • Type C. The Lobby Entrance House where the fireplace is centrally placed and the entrance is by a door into a small lobby area placed against the chimney stack. Those houses are timber framed and occur mainly in Montgomeryshire, Radnorshire and Denbighshire. The Severn Valley houses of Montgomeryshire are within this grouping.[37]
  • Type D. Similar to the Lobby Entry Houses but lack the double-backed fireplaces and have an additional end gable. There are a few houses of this type in N.E. Wales, but otherwise, they occur as stone-built houses in Glamorgan.[38]
  • Type H. This is a gable entry house, similar to type B, but the entry is away from the gable fireplace. This type only occurs in Glamorgan and Monmouthshire.[39]

Long houses and the long house controversy

Cilewent farmhouse, St Fagans

A good example of a long house is Cilewent Farmhouse from Llansanffraid Cwmteuddwr, near

Tŷ Mawr and Tyddyn Llwydion in Montgomeryshire.[43]

Hendre'r Ywydd Uchaf farmhouse, St Fagans

The idea of the "Longhouse" or "Tŷ-hir" was first discussed by

Elizabethan period.[44]

Box framing

Abernodwydd Montgomeryshire, Farmhouse reconstructed at St Fagans
Plas yn Pentre near Trevor, Wrexham

A good example of box framing is of this is Plas yn Pentre at Trevor near Wrexham. On the dissolution of the abbey in 1536 it came into the possession of the High Sheriff of Denbighshire, Ieuan Edwards. His grandson partially re-built the house in 1634. His initials and the date can be seen carved into the exterior of the west gable.[45]

The largest and most impressive of these houses was

close-studded frontage, with an open three-bay Renaissance loggia on the ground floor, six gables (later reduced to three), and, rising from the centre, a pyramid-roofed look-out tower or Belvedere. While the main house was built in timber, there was extensive use of brick for the inner courtyard and service wings. The hall was not used as the family seat for long, and for most of its existence it was either unoccupied or used by agents of the estate. It was, however, kept in good order and in 1909 the Prince of Wales, who was shooting in the surrounding parkland, was entertained here. In August 1921 the floor collapsed during a Bazaar Sale, and the hall was finally demolished in 1931.[46]

Pembrokeshire houses with round chimney stacks

Old Farmhouse at Pwllcaerog, Pembrokeshire
Rhosson Uchaf Farm, on the lane to St Justinian's, West of St David's

These form an unusual group of Sub-Medieval Houses which were studied by

J Romilly Allen in 1902.[48] Characteristically these are a form of Hall house with a lateral chimney stack, which may be either round or conical. Typically these chimneys have a lean-to outshoot on either side of the stack, with one of these outshoots acting as a porch. Cottages and houses with these chimneys were mapped by Peter Smith and he showed that they form two groups, one around St Davids and the other to the south of Pembroke. There is a good example of one of these chimneys on the Merchants House, Tenby. Houses with very similar plans and lateral outshoots, but with square chimneys, also cluster on the Gower Peninsula[49]

Lobby entrance and Severn Valley houses

Penarth, a black and white house near Newtown (geograph 2980737)
Talgarth front

The timber-framed lobby entrance house emerged in the mid-16th century in Mid Wales. The majority of these houses occur in Montgomeryshire with outliers in Radnorshire and Denbighshire. The chimney in these houses is generally in the middle of the house. There is no cross passage, unlike the Longhouses and the Snowdonia Houses and instead, the main doorway opens into a small lobby on the side of the fireplace. The chimney generally stands between the kitchen and the parlour. The key feature of these houses is the emphasis placed on the parlour, which takes the place of a hall.[50]

A development of this are the Severn Valley Houses, which particularly congregate along the

Severn Valley in Montgomeryshire, especially between Newtown and Welshpool.[51] A typical feature of the Severn Valley houses are the elaborate entry porches to the houses which often have decorative scroll brackets supporting a jettied upper story. These porches often are added features to an earlier timber-framed house and lead directly into a lobby entrance. A well-known example of the Severn Valley type, which has added timber framed wings to the house is Trewern Hall near Welshpool. A house which has been dated by dendrochronology is Lower Cil on the outskirts of Berriew. This is a well-preserved farmhouse. Its left side is 16th-century (the square framing under the render was felled in 1583), probably a hall-house enlarged when the close-studded taller right end was rebuilt in the early 17th century to provide a new parlour and porch, both slightly jettied. The porch has open sides with turned rails, and the original inner door. The remodelling included the typical Severn Valley lobby-entry central chimney, with its triple-moulded brick stacks.[52]

Snowdonia houses

Tŷ Mawr Wybrnant
Y Garreg Fawr from Waunfawr, Gwynedd, at St Fagans

Snowdonia houses have recently been the subject of considerable study by the

St Fagans and has been dated to 1544[54]
The earliest example of a Snowdonia House dated by dendrochronology is Dugoed at Penmachno. This has been dated to 1516–1517.[55] The nearby Tŷ Mawr Wybrnant, the birthplace of William Morgan, translator of the bible into Welsh, has been dated to 1565, but there is evidence that this was the re-building of an earlier cruck hall house of around 1500.[56] The construction of the typical Snowdonia Houses continued into the 17th century, as at Cymbrychan at Llanfair which is dated 1612.[57]

The distribution of Snowdonia-type houses extends into Aberconwy and Caernarfonshire. A good example of this type of house is the smaller house which stands immediately next to the mansion at Faenol Fawr near St Asaph. This is likely to be early 16th century in date.[58] It appears to have been a two storied, hall house, with cruck framing and stone walls. The evidence for the cruck roof is from a photograph by the Rev N W Watson,[59] and this roof may still be in place. Cyclopean doorways have been studied by Peter Smith.[60]

Faenol Fawr, Bodelwyddan Cyclopean lintel to blocked door
Gilar in Pentrevoelas

These massive arched stone door lintels were introduced at a time, probably around 1600, when stone walling was replacing timber framing and may encase an earlier timber structure. A much altered "post and panel" screens passage with three entrances,[61] now in the hall area of the main house, is likely to have been removed from the hall in the older house. This screens passage would have been associated with the finely moulded beams in the older house. These moulded beams can be compared with similar beams at Maesycastell in Caernarvonshire and Perthywig in Denbighshire which are illustrated by Smith[62]

Another example is Gilar in Pentrefoelas, presumably built by Cadwaladr ap Maurice after receiving a substantial grant of land from Henry VIII in 1545–1546[63][64]

Renaissance houses

Old Beaupre, Cowbridge, detail on Courtyard Porch c. 1600
Ruperra Castle in 2011
Brymbo Hall, Wrexham
Treowen House

Renaissance architectural styles and influences start appearing in the eastern corners of Wales during the reign of Queen Elizabeth. In Glamorgan, an early example of Renaissance alteration was made to the facade of the outer gatehouse of the now ruined Old Beaupre, near Cowbridge in 1580. This was followed by the more striking Porch in the inner courtyard of 1600 at Old Beaupre.[65] A later and more developed example of Renaissance architecture is

entablatures.[68]

Major houses in north Wales

Bodysgallen
Mostyn Hall, Flintshire

The major houses built in the 16th and earlier 17th centuries are often difficult to classify on stylistic grounds. The Welsh families who built them often were less interested in the outside display of architectural features and more interested in the interior decoration, particularly elaborate plasterwork, painted walls and elaborately carved woodwork with armorials commemorating their family descent. Many of these houses such as Bodysgallen, which was started in 1620 and Mostyn Hall are an amalgamation of different styles of architecture over many years. The front is of 1631–1632.[69] In the case of Nercwys Hall near Mold it is known that the contractor who built the Hall was Raffe Booth of Chester and the plans for the house were drawn up by his carpenter Evan Jones. The contract for the building is 1637 and the datestone on the building is 1637.[70]

The influence of English architectural fashion can also be seen in Hen Blas, at Llanasa in Flintshire. Built in 1645 at the start of the Civil War it is built of the local stone with ashlar facing. As Edward Hubbard remarks[71]

Another notable house is Gloddaeth near Llandudno, which retains its hall still up the original hammer-beam roof and also a painted dais above the high table at the end of the hall.[72]

Plas Mawr, Conwy

The Old Hall at Y Faenol (Y Vaynol),

crow stepped gable.[73]

Plas Mawr in Conwy is one of the most impressive surviving courtyard houses of this period, which has recently[when?] been restored by Cadw. An Elizabethan townhouse, dating from the 16th century. The property was built by Robert Wynn, a member of the local gentry, following his marriage to his first wife, Dorothy Griffith. Plas Mawr occupied a plot of land off Conwy's High Street and was constructed in three phases between 1576 and 1585 at a total cost of around £800.[74] These three phases of house construction – 1576–77, 1580 and 1585 – were probably overseen by several different senior craftsmen, possibly working to an original plan determined by a surveyor or mason working at the English royal court.[75] Judging by the details of the roof design, a single master carpenter may have been used for all three parts of the build.[76]

Plasterwork, painted interiors and woodwork

Faenol Fawr, Bodelwyddan. South wing interior. Lloyd Armorials of 1597 over fireplace

At

royal arms, as do the great chamber and the parlour, probably because they were intended to host senior guests.[78] The badges of numerous monarchs are included throughout the house, including those of Richard II, Richard III, Henry IV and Henry VII.[79] The badges of other prominent nobles, such as Robert Dudley, are also featured in the house.[80]

The plasterwork in the parlour displays the arms of Robert Wynn himself, and the brewhouse shows the combined arms of the Wynn and Griffith families, which are generally given equal prominence throughout the house.[81] Robert Wynn's arms are most prominent in the hall and the bedchambers, where the royal arms are smaller and less prominent.[78] In the 16th century, Wynn's heraldry would probably have been echoed in the furnishings of the house, including the fabrics, cups and silverware.[82] The plasterwork also incorporates a number of classical themes, but these are not as well executed as the badges and other emblems: Turner describes them as "rather token additions", and Smith considers this part of the decoration to be "naive".[83] At Maenan Hall near

Maelor Gymraeg.[85]

Earlier brick-built houses of the late 16th and 17th centuries

Brynkinalt Hall, Chirk, 1612

Sir Richard Clough built Bachegraig [cy], one of the earliest brick buildings in Wales in 1567, heavily influenced by Flemish brick builders.[86][87] Slowly, brick building in Wales became fashionable, but in some areas of Western and southwestern Wales only starts to appear in the 19th century. Brick makers tended to be itinerant until the mid-19th century, digging clay and firing bricks took place close to the building that was to be constructed.[88] One of the more permanent brickyards was the Herbert's (Earls of Chirbury) brickyard at Stalloe near Montgomery, which would have been the likely source for the impressive New Build at Montgomery Castle and for large quantities of bricks used in building of the service wings at Lymore near Montgomery 1664–67 and also for 17th-century brick-faced town houses in Montgomery and possibly Welshpool. The earliest use of brick in the 16th century was for the construction of massive chimney stacks of Stellar form with multiple flues within timber-framed houses. These stacks would have greatly reduced the risk of fire, and the study by Peter Smith of the distribution of these stacks shows them to be clustered along the Welsh border from Montgomeryshire northwards.[89]

While brick making may have started by Flemish brick makers working for Sir Richard Clough, building in brick was also becoming established in Shropshire[90] and in Cheshire. The earliest of the typical Elizabethan Houses using brick with stone dressing was Trevalyn Hall built for John Trevor in 1576[91] Brick with stone dressing was used for the construction of Brynkinalt at Chirk, near to the Welsh border with England. This is an E-plan house of Elizabethan or Jacobean appearance that was built for Sir Edward Trevor in 1612[92]

Bodwrda, Aberdaron
Castle Farm, Raglan

It has been noted that Brymbo Hall (1625) was largely brick, but the Cheshire influence of brick building is also apparent in Halghton Hall in Maelor Gymraeg of 1662[93] In Montgomeryshire the earliest brick house was the New Build at Montgomery Castle, which was built for Edward Herbert by Scampion between 1622 and 1625.[94] Bodwrdda, near Aberdaron on the Llyn peninsular provides an example of an earlier house that was re-fronted in brick in 1621.[95] In Monmouthshire the establishment of brick building is shown by the massive brick service block (now Castle Farmhouse, Raglan) that was built for the older branch of the Herbert family for Raglan Castle, probably just before the English Civil War.[96]

Earlier housing in towns

The Buck Inn, Newtown
Thatched Horse and Jockey in Wrexham

Timber-framed houses of the 15th to 18th century are present in many of the Welsh towns in North, Central and SE Wales. The distribution of these houses has been mapped by Peter Smith[97] who shows that in some areas in Wales such as Glamorgan and Anglesey, timber-framed houses were being built in towns, but not in the countryside, where stone would have been the usual building material. Modern commercial development has tended to remove most of the timber-framed houses from the high streets of Welsh towns, leaving the occasional examples, often public houses such as the Buck in Newtown and the thatched Horse and Jockey in Wrexham. Many more examples of timber-framed houses exist behind brick facades of the 18th and 19th centuries. This is particularly the case in the small market town of Montgomery, where the Herbert family encouraged the inhabitants to rebuild the houses with brick frontages from the 1670s onward.[98]

Royal House, Machynlleth 1559–61
Tudor Merchant's House on Quay Hill, Tenby.

The

Dendrochronological or Tree ring dates indicate it was built between 1559 and 1561. It was said that Owain Glyndŵr imprisoned David Gam there, and it was also said that King Charles I stayed at the house when travelling to Chester – hence the origin of the name 'Royal House'.[99] It occupies one of the original Medieval burgage plots laid out around 1291. The long range has three parts with a house set between an upper shop and a lower store.[100]

Another early trading house was Aberconwy House in Castle Street, Conwy, now in the care of the National Trust.[101] It is the one survivor of a group of merchant cum warehouses of the English merchants who traded in Conwy. It is a three-storey building, the first two storeys of which have stone rubble walls and the upper is a jettied out timber-framed construction. It has been tree ring dated to about 1420.[102] In Tenby, there is the Tudor Merchants House on Quay Hill, also in the care of the

corbelled out and there is a large cylindrical chimney stack to the north. There is some painted decoration inside.[103] The house appears to have been part of a larger merchant's complex.[104]

Market malls and town halls

Llanidloes Market hall
The Old Court House Ruthin Wales dated to 1421

Many shire halls were timber framed, but the only surviving example of this type is at

Dendrochronological dating has recently shown that this building is earlier and the timbers used for its construction were felled in 1421[105] The Old Market Hall in Llanidloes is known to have been constructed from trees felled between 1611 and 1622[106]
A slightly earlier town built of stone is the Shire Hall at
fenestration, including Venetian windows were added. The colonnades have been enclosed[107]

In the Georgian period, much more impressive town halls started to be built and the Shire Hall at Monmouth is a particularly good example. It is in a classical style of Bath stone by Fisher of Bristol with giant Ionic pilasters[108]

Market Hall at Monmouth 1837-9
Carmarthen Guildhall 1767–77

An important building, although altered, in

Sir Robert Taylor's Guildhall at Carmarthen, built between 1767 and 1777. This has a trio of giant first floor windows which are over-arched over large Palladian windows with Ionic columns and with blind panels above. Taylor used similar windows to light the Court Room of the Bank of England[109]
In the 19th century, the design of Market Halls changed, they were now single-storied and larger areas were made available for trading. A particularly notable example now houses the Nelson Museum and local history centre in Monmouth. This was built in Bath stone in the Greek Doric style by the architect George Vaughan Maddox of Monmouth in 1837–1839[110]

Bridges

Holt over the River Dee, dated to 1254,[112]' which is still in use. This bridge is commemorated by a famous painting by Richard Wilson, now in the National Gallery, which also shows the gatehouse chapel which stood at the east end. Another early bridge which still has a standing gatehouse is Monnow Bridge at Monmouth which was constructed as part of the town defences during the period 1297–1315.[113]

The Old Bridge, Pontypridd.

In south Wales a notable bridge architect and engineer was William Edwards (1719–1789), who in 1746 was contracted to build a new bridge over the River Taff at Pontypridd. The first bridge was washed away and the second bridge collapsed, but his third bridge was a single arch bridge of 140 feet, then the largest of the type in the world, which he completed in 1756, which is still standing, now known as the Old Bridge. In order to reduce the weight of the bridge he pierced large cylindrical holes through the spandrels of the bridge, which solved a constructional problem and gives it its elegant appearance.[114]

A number of fine bridges were built in

voussoirs.[115] Another impressive bridge is the single arched bridge at Dolanog over the Vyrnwy, which was portrayed by the artist Edward Pugh in 1813.[116]

Menai Suspension Bridge

The construction of the Holyhead Road and other work by Thomas Telford resulted in a number major bridges. At Betws-y-Coed Telford constructed the early iron Waterloo Bridge across the Llugwy. This bridge with a span of over 30 metres, was cast at William Hazledine's foundry. This bridge has the inscription "This arch was constructed in the same year as the battle of Waterloo was fought", but it was completed in 1816.[117]

Another iron bridge to be completed in 1816 was John Rennie's elegant bridge over the river Wye at Chepstow which was also produced at Hazeldine's foundry. In 1819

Severn, including those at Garthmyl at Berriew, Brynderwen at Abermule and Llandinam. The inscription of the Brynderwyn, Penson copies Telford with an inscription over the arch "This is the second iron bridge constructed in the county of Montgomery, was erected in the year 1852. Thomas Penson, County Surveyor : Brymbo Company Ironfounders".[118]

Labourer and peasant cottages

Nant Wallter Cottage St Fagans

Tŷ unnos (plural Tai unnos) (one night house), is a traditional Welsh folklore from the 17th to 19th centuries that if a person could build a house on common land in one night, the land then belonged to them as a freehold. It is said that smoke had to be coming from the chimney before dawn and in Denbighshire the builder was able to claim land within the distance they could throw an axe from the corners of the house.[119]

Great houses of the later Stuart period

Tredegar House, Newport
Great Castle House, Monmouth, 1673

In the Restoration period following the Civil War a number of major larger houses were built, particularly in southern Wales. The first and most impressive of these was rebuilding of Tredegar House at Newport by William Morgan in the mid-1660s.[120] This was probably the work of two carpenter architects, Roger and William Hurlbutt from Warwick. A brick house that is richly decorated with stone dressings and the principal doorway with foliage clad twisted columns that support a pediment. Tredegar House was to be followed by Great Castle House at Monmouth in 1673 for Henry Somerset, who became the 1st Duke of Beaufort in 1682 and was also Lord President of the Marches.[121] Another house of this period was Penpont in Breconshire built around 1666. A double-pile house It has been much altered. It was encased in Bath stone in 1828–1835, when a ground floor colonnade was added to the front of the house.[122]

Following the construction of Castle House in Monmouth, the Duke of Beaufort had a country house, Troy House at Michels Troy built in 1681–1684, but incorporating an earlier 17th-century house.[123]

In 1683 work was begun on the construction of Erddig, on the outskirts of Wrexham. Erddig was a similar house to Troy House. The architect was a Thomas Webb, who is described as a 'freemason".[124]

At Trawsgoed (Crosswood) in

Thomas Dineley. There was a three bay central house with dormers and a classical doorway with earlier side wings forming an inner courtyard, and outer gated garden courtyard.[125]

Georgian architecture

Nanteos Ceredigion
Llanelly House as restored 2014

Architecture of the Georgian period in Wales may be considered to start with houses such as the recently restored Llanelly House. This was built in 1714 by Sir Thomas Stepney in Llanelli. At the time Llanelli was only a village and this should be considered a Country House rather than a town house[126] The House has its original lead downspouts which are dated 1714, but there is no evidence as to whom the architect was. It is of seven bays with sash windows and a parapet with big gadrooned urns.[126] Similar large block-like houses continued to be built during the reigns of George I and George II. Nanteos near Aberystwyth has a foundation stone of 1739 and completion date on the rainwater head of 1757.[127]

Taliaris in Carmarthenshire is another house of this form with a facade of Bath stone. It was probably built shortly after the marriage of Richard Gywnne to Ann Rudd in 1722–1723. Taliaris is by an unknown, but on stylistic grounds it has been suggested that it is the work of a Bristol or Somerset mason or architect[128] A further example of this type of house was the early 18th-century Glanbran, Cynhordy, Carmarthenshire which is described as

Mannerist touches. There was an ornamented Venetian window and a top window with paired pilasters. It was finally demolished in 1987.[129]

Houses with the typical

Palladian arrangement of a central block attached wings or flanking pavilions were built at Dyffryn Aled in Llansannan in Denbighshire[130] and Trawscoed at Guilsfield in Montgomeryshire. Dyffryn Alyn was built to designs by Joseph Turner in 1777, and the pavilions were added in a matching design by James Wolfe. Thomas Pennant records that the house replaced an old house of the Wynne family and Dianna Wynne built a new house "in a most elegant and magnificent manner, on the side of the hill opposite the antient mansion" and cased it in Bath stone. "The very day after the workmen had finished their work, almost the whole casing fell down: which occasioned a vast expense in the repair."[131] The house was demolished around 1920, but Pennant provided an excellent picture of this grand house in his extra-illustrated volumes of the tour, now in the National Library of Wales[132]

A development of the Palladian style was Pengwern Place (or Hall) near Rhuddlan of 1778. This was a Mostyn family house and today is much altered from its original appearance, which is shown in its original form in an engraving in Neale's Seats of 1818. The main block is of two and a half storeys and five bays with octagonal wings in brick with stone dressings. The central pediment over three bays on a giant order of Ionic pilasters. On either side at first floor level are two Venetian Windows. An impressive composition which is already starting to show the influence of Robert Adam[133]

An important architect who established himself at

Regency terraces in Swansea which have now largely disappeared, the Assembly Rooms of 1810[135] and produced plans for the Swansea Copper works. In the area around Swansea he was responsible for the Marino, which was incorporated into Singleton Abbey, the re-modelled Kilvrough in c. 1785, Stouthall, Reynollston, 1787–9, and Sketty Hall and Sketty Park House. He was responsible for the Mumbles Lighthouse in 1793. He is also thought to have been involved in the design and layout of Milford Haven in Pembrokeshire.[136]

Prisons and workhouses

The Roundhouse (village lock-up), Ruabon

In the latter part of the 18th century, as the result of

Penitentiary Act which was passed in 1779. This act was in implemented in each Welsh county by the Court of Great Sessions and which led to the building of many new prisons across Wales. These included the gaols built in Carmarthen and Cardigan by John Nash and the gaols at Caernarfon (1793), Ruthin (1785) and Flint (1775) by Joseph Turner.[138] Most of these prisons were closed in the 1870s, but the Ruthin gaol, now used as the Denbighshire County Record Office is remarkably well preserved. The Anglesey Gaol at Beaumaris came later in 1828–1829 by the architects Hansom and Welch. This incorporates many of the innovations of the Milbank Penitentiary in London of 1812–1821 with wings, a massive curtilage wall and a central glass cupola for the oversight of the prison complex.[139]

Montgomery Gaol Gateway

This plan was developed for the Montgomeryshire County gaol at Montgomery by the County Surveyor Thomas Penson, c. 1830–32. Brick faced with stone. The tall octagonal governor's house with the chapel above, was at the centre of four radiating three- and two-storey wings. One of the yards was fitted with a tread-mill. The gatehouse was built into the wall to face a new approach in 1866 by J.W. Poundley. Powerful ashlar triumphal arch, with four giant semi-rusticated pilasters. The Gaol was closed in 1878 and all that now remains, apart from the gatehouse, is the Governor's House and the high wall of one cell block.[140]

Neoclassicism and Greek revival architecture

North Wales

Baron Hill, Beaumaris by Samuel Wyatt 1776-9
Kinmel Park, St Asaph, watercolour by John Ingleby 1794

Neoclassical architecture came to north Wales mainly as a result of the influence of

Mrs Thrale. Bryn Bella was built between 1792 and 1795 with an ashlar facade and double bays and wings with pediments on either side.[144]

South Wales

In south Wales Neo-classicism was introduced by the Gloucestershire architect

vermiculated rustication to the more formal swags and arched windows.[146]

The ruined Piercefield House, Monmouthshire

A house of considerable importance was

Palladian appearance with a massive central block and side pavilions. The side pavilions and curved colonnade of Tuscan columns were the additions made by Bononi after 1795. The house to-day is in a ruinous state.[147]

Greek revival architecture

A house which bridged the gap between late Palladian forms and Neo-classism was Middleton Hall in Carmarthenshire, built for

Sir Robert Taylor for Carmarthen Town Hall. Cockerell had served his pupillage under Sir Robert Taylor, as had also John Nash and these windows are also seen on Nash's Villa type houses in Wales, as at Llanerchaeron. Middleton Hall was burnt down in 1931, and its gardens, are now the site of the National Botanic Garden of Wales. Cockerell was also responsible for the design of the nearby Paxton's Tower, a Gothic folly built in 1805 in commemoration of Lord Nelson. 1n 1810 Cockerell was responsible to Sir William Paxton for building the sea water Baths and Assembly Rooms at Tenby. Over the enclosed bow porch is a Greek inscription taken from Euripides "The sea washes away all the ills of men."[149]

Court House in Ruthin by Joseph Turner 1785–90

A Chester architect showing considerable competence in classical revival architecture was

tetrastyle pedimented portico with Greek Doric capitals and the courtroom has Venetian windows on either side[150]
The use Greek revival
tetrastyle portico occurs again at Llanphey Court in Pembrokeshire which was completed in 1823 by Charles Fowler who was also the architect for the Covent Garden Market in London.[151]

An architect who worked very competently in the Classical style was George Vaughan Maddox (1802–1864), a Monmouth architect whose work is restricted to Monmouth and the area immediately around. Maddox has been noted above as the architect for New Market in Monmouth which opened in 1837. This was part of a new street which was built on arches overlooking the river Monnow, which now forms a handsome entrance to the town from the North.[152]

Developed Classicism

Admiralty arch Holyhead

This is comparatively well represented in Wales. As a style it is more severe and modeled more closely on Greek Architecture.

Llanfairpwll on Anglesey in 1816–1817, to commemorate the feats of Marquess of Anglesey in the Napoleonic Wars.[154]

pilasters and surmounted with a pediment. The house was sold in 1953 and partially demolished in 1956.[156]

Public buildings

Swansea Museum

The Greek revival style was chosen for many public buildings in Wales. Swansea Museum of 1839–1841, originally the Royal Institution of South Wales is a finely detailed and well balanced example with a three bay portico supported on Ionic columns. It is faced in Bath ashlar stone. It was built to designs by Frederick Long, a Liverpool architect.[157]

Swansea Old Town Hall

A rather later use of Greek revival is the Shire Hall at Caernarfon of almost oversized proportions and facing

in antis.[159]

An early and unusual combination of Grecian and Italianate architecture is Swansea Old Town Hall. It is described by Newman as "the noblest classical building in Swansea ......a grandiose Corinthian Palazzo." It was built to designs by Thomas Taylor of London between 1848 and 1852 which incorporated the earlier Town Hall of 1825– 27 by Thomas Bowen. The interior of the building, which is now the Dylan Thomas Centre, was extensively rebuilt in 1993–1994[160]

Gothic Revivalism and Historicism of the 18th and 19th Centuries.

Romanesque or Norman revival architecture

Penrhyn Castle

The derivation of Romanesque Revival architecture or Norman Revival architecture can be traced back to the late 17th century, but only became a recognisable architectural style around 1820. In 1817 Thomas Rickman published his An Attempt to Discriminate the Styles of English Architecture from the Conquest To the Reformation. It was now realised that "round-arch architecture" was largely Romanesque in the British Isles and came to be described as Norman rather than Saxon.[161] The start of an "archaeologically correct" Norman Revival can be recognised in the architecture of Thomas Hopper. His first attempt at this style was at Gosford Castle in Armagh in Ireland, but far more successful was his Penrhyn Castle near Bangor. This was built for the Pennant family, between 1820 and 1837. The style did not catch on for domestic buildings, though many country houses and mock castles were built in the Castle Gothic or Castellated style during the Victorian period, which was a mixed Gothic style.[162]

Strawberry Hill and the earlier
Gothic Revival

Bodelwyddan Castle Central Gothic extension 1802-8
Plas Newydd
Bodelwyddan Castle Gothic window alcove at Boddelwddan 1802-8

A surprisingly early example of

Roger Morris[164] who also designed Clearwell Castle[165] in Gloucestershire about 1728.[166]

Another example of the simple Gothic revival style was Gnoll near Neath. This was a remodelling, starting in 1776, of an existing house for Sir Herbert Mackworth, owner of a local copper works. It had a crenulated parapet and round towers at the two corners of the frontage. The architect was John Johnson an Essex architect who had been associated with Mackworth's banking interests in London. Following this, examples of

Hafod. The first stage of Hafod was started 1786 by Thomas Baldwin of Bath for Thomas Johnes, in a Gothic revival style with gothic window, battlements and pinnacles and then in 1793–1794 John Nash added a top-lit galleried library and a 300 ft long conservatory.[167]

Another early pioneer of the Gothic style was

Beaudesert in Staffordshire in the Gothic style in 1771–1772. The Earl was to employ him again at Plas Newydd on Anglesey to rebuild the West front and the interior in a Gothic style from 1793 to 1799[168]
Wyatt worked with the Lichfield architect James Potter and the style of plasterwork lacks the lightness of Strawberry Hill gothic. Plas Newydd was followed by the more remarkable Gothic mansion at Garth at Guilsfield in Montgomeryshire, built for Devereux Mytton, probably in the late 1790s.[169]

Another house with Strawberry Hill Gothic features was

machicolations, towers and turrets were added. A west wing was added with gothic windows.[171] At Rhiwlas, near Bala the ancient house was re-cased as a Gothic castle in 1809 with three storeys and three polygonal towers, but the house was largely replaced by new house in 1954. The Gate arch by Thomas Rickman of 1813 still exists.[172]

Folly Gothic

PaxtonsTower

In the 1780s there was another style evolving which sometimes is referred to as a 'Folly Gothic', houses which were intended as eye-catchers. Possibly the best example of this is

Moses Griffiths, though parts of it were incorporated into Thomas Hopper's rebuilding of Penrhyn. While it shows the features of this evolving style, the doorway shows the influence of Strawberry Hill gothic.[174]
Folly Gothic was a style which was widely adopted for park gates and lodges and for small houses sited in picturesque positions in locations frequented by tourists. A good example is Ogwen Bank near
Severn. This was burnt down in 1906, but an engraving shows a fantastic villa with five towers fronted with a Neoclassical portico.[176]

Dol-Llys, Llanidloes

In Wales pointed Gothic windows continued to be widely used until about 1810. In Montgomeryshire iron framed Gothic windows were used to embellish vernacular houses. Grander houses such as Dol-Llys in Llanidloes, built for George Mears around 1800, by an unknown architect, but in the "villa" style of John Nash, had wooden Gothic windows.[177] One of the most eye-catching gothic follies in Wales is

Sir William Paxton (1745–1824), Paxton made his first fortune while with the HEIC in Calcutta with Charles Cockerell, brother of the architect. He purchased the Middleton Hall estate about 1790 and built this tower 1808.[178]

Castellated Gothic

Hensol Castle

Castellated Gothic was a style that emerged in Wales following the Napoleonic Wars and has been little studied, although a considerable number of Country Houses were built in this style up to about 1870. It is largely derived from the earlier Castellated Gothic Mansions built Robert Adam in Scotland

Sir Robert Smirke between 1815 and 1818.[6]

Bodelwyddan Castle, Denbighshire
Gatehouse to Brynkinalt by Joseph Bromfield

Initially older houses such as Bodelwyddan in Denbighshire or Hensol Castle had large extensions added to them. At Stanage Park in Radnorshire the design has been attributed to John Adey Repton, but he employed as the building contractor John Hiram Haycock. Haycock, from Shrewsbury, was equally competent as an architect and may have contributed to appearance of the building. This has led Thomas Lloyd to suggest that the similar appearance of Glandyfi (c. 1812) in Ceredigion, may also be the work of Haycock.[181] At Brynkinalt in Denbighshire the addition of castellated towers and other feature (now removed) on a late 17th-century house was the work of another Shrewsbury architect Joseph Bromfield.[182]

Cyfartha Castle

Castellated Gothic was the style employed by

Longmans in 1872. These volumes give the impression that both the established gentry and the Nouveau riche bankers and industrialists in Wales needed to justify a legitimacy for building in this style and the expenditure they were lavishing on them.[185]

Gwrych Castle, Flintshire

Other early castellated buildings in Wales were Gwrych Castle in Flintshire. "One of the most amazing of 19th Century castellated mansions".[186] It was designed by C A Busby and Thomas Rickman. The foundation stone was laid in 1819 and the work was probably finished in 1822.[187] Also in Flintshire, Gyrn Castle, at Llanasa, an older house was converted into a castellated mansion for the Holywell cotton manufacturer John Douglas between 1817 and 1824.[71] Nearby Halkyn Castle was designed by John Buckler c. 1827 for the second Earl Grosvenor.[188] At Stanage Park, Knighton. The house was started in 1807 to designs by John Adey Repton. The arch to the stable block is dated 1807. The bay window was added in 1833 and in 1841 the Edward Haycock took over as architect, remodelling the interior after a fire and adding a Neo-Norman porch to the rectangular tower. He continued expanding the house until 1867. The work was for the Rogers family who followed Thomas Johnes of Hafod as the owners of Stanage.[189]

Tudor Gothic

Margam Castle, grand staircase
Edward Haycock, Sr. at Margam Castle in Glamorgan which was built between 1830 and 1840.[190] This was a more ornate and flamboyant form of Tudor Gothic with a massive central lantern tower, modelled on the 16th-century prospect tower at Melbury House in Dorset. Newman sees the Hopper and Haycock deriving their designs from James Wyatt's Ashridge of 1808–1813 and William Wilkin's Dalmeny House near Edinburgh of 1814–1817. While the exterior is Tudor Gothic, there is a spectacular staircase inside the tower in a late Gothic or Perpendicular style with impressive fan-vaulting[191]

At

Medieval castle was partly rebuilt in 1826 and then transformed in 1848–1853 by the architect Henry Clutton for Frederick Richard West. Clutton demolished much of the main block of the earlier house and replaced it with a three storied castellated building in bright red sandstone and placed at the west corner a big octagonal tower.[192]

This mixed style is also seen at Llantarnam Abbey in Monmouthshire by Thomas Henry Wyatt. In Montgomeryshire between 1850 and 1856 Leighton Hall was built by the little-known Liverpool architect W. H. Gee, probably to designs by James Kellaway Colling.[193]

William and Mary and Queen Anne style

Garthmyl Hall
Cefnbryntalch, Llandyssil

An early example of the Queen Anne revival style was Garthmyl Hall, Berriew in Montgomeryshire by J K Colling. It was completed in 1859 and was a pioneering example of the use of Terracotta ornamentation.[194] A more developed example of Queen Anne revival style can be seen nearby in the

Norman Shaw at Kinmel Park in Denbighshire. It was constructed 1872–1874 incorporating parts of the earlier houses by Samuel Wyatt and Thomas Hopper. The house consists of 15 bays on the E. front with end pavilions[196]

Terracotta revival architecture in Wales

Pierhead Building Cardiff

For a short period at the start of the 16th century, Italian craftsmen introduced the art of highly fired Terracotta moulded brickwork and ornamental plaques into Tudor England. The use of terracotta was largely limited to Great Houses in Eastern England.[197]

One of the earliest architects to make use of this source was the Welsh architect Thomas Penson, who worked from offices in Oswestry. There appears to be good evidence that he sourced his terracotta from the brickyards which were associated with the Oswestry coalfield at Morda and Trefonen on the Welsh border.[198]

Offices and Gatehouse to J C Edwards Terra cotta works at Pen-y-bont
Tower above the entrance to John Summers' Building 1907

One of the most iconic Terracotta buildings in Wales is the Pierhead building at Cardiff Docks, adjacent to the Welsh Assembly building. The Grade One listed building was built in 1897 and designed by the English architect[199] William Frame. It was a replacement for the headquarters of the Bute Dock Company which burnt down in 1892. Frame's mentor was William Burges, with whom Frame worked on the rebuilding of Cardiff Castle and Castell Coch until Burges's death in 1881.[200]

The John Summers Building by the River Dee 1907

A further impressive building using and orangey terracotta with red bricks, probably from J. C Edwards at

Gothic revival architecture with some Art Nouveau detailing. A building dominating the market place in Newtown in Montgomeryshire is Barclays Bank of 1898 by Wood and Kendrick of Birmingham for Sarah Brisco of Newtown Hall. Built as an office block with the corner clock tower commemorating Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee.[202]

In small country towns such as Rhayader in Radnorshire the local architect, Richard Wellings Thomas built both the Kington and Radnor Bank of 1904 and the town's Post Office of 1903 using Ruabon Terracotta. The Bank has heavy classical mouldings while the Post Office for the upper storeys uses the local stone with terracotta dressings.[203] Terracotta was a popular material for building Post Offices, as at Denbigh and particularly the Post Office in Great Darkgate in Aberystwyth. The later was the work of T E Morgan, completed in 1901, and has an attractive mosaic fascia.[204] In Welshpool the J & M Morris's iron foundry had the Agricultural Implement Depot built in Church Street for the display of their products. This was to the designs of the work of the Borough surveyor Robert Hurst around 1904, in deep red Ruabon brickwork with arched display windows with masqued heads used as keystones. The inscription "Agricultural Implement Depot" runs along the parapet of the building.[205]

Faience glazed terracotta

Golden Cross pub, Custom House Street, Cardiff

Glazed architectural terra-cotta starts appearing in building facades in Wales around 1900. An example occurs in Longbridge Street in Llanidloes. This is a double fronted shop faced with brownish Burmantofts faience and the shops with facias with decorative tendril designs.[206]

The Golden Cross public House in Custom House Street, Cardiff, has a two-storey red faience facade with yellow pilasters. The ground floor has an elaborate tiled pub front with Venetian windows; green and gold tiling with raised lettering to fascias, tiled panelling to pilasters. The saloon bar on the ground floor has walls lined with polychrome tiles and a tiled floral frieze. Bar with hard wood top and with external covering of tiles with grotesque pattern in relief. Walls of entrance lobby, with faience tiled picture of Cardiff Castle, dated 1903 and another of Cardiff Town Hall.[207]

The use of white Doulton faience glazed terracotta is notable for the Motor Palace at

National Cycle Museum, it has a curving facade of nine bays of white-faience ware and blocked pilasters dividing the display bays, surmounted with lion finials. It is an early example of steel framed construction. The building reflects that Llandridod was the social capital of Wales at the time and Tom Norton, for whom it was built was both an early bus proprietor and also aviator, hence the fascia letting CYCLES – MOTORS- AIRCRAFT.[208]

Ruskinian Gothic & Polychrome brickwork

Town Hall, Cardigan

The influence of

Stones of Venice. Ruskin and Street advocated styles of architecture which used striking colour combinations and were modelled on Venetian and north Italian Gothic architecture. There is little evidence of Ruskinian Gothic in Wales, but with the notable exception of Cardigan Town Hall, but it did give rise to the use of Polychrome brickwork. Cardigan Town Hall was designed by Robert Jewell Withers and built in 1858–60. It was a multi-purpose civic building acting as a Town Hall, Corn Exchange, Grammar School, News-room, corn store and markets. The clock and clock tower were added in 1896.[209]

An example of Ruskin's Venetian Gothic are the block of chambers at 24–26 Queen Street Cardiff. These have been attributed to C E Barnard,apparently a Civil Engineer and were originally built alongside the Glamorgan Canal, possibly giving the inspiration to build in the Venetian Gothic style. The construction is dated to 1878, although this stylistically seem a decade or more too late.[210] The building has a four storied facade with Stucco and Portland stone and seven bays. Gothic cornice with pierced pinnacles at either end with ornamental battlements. The third floor has single windows with rounded heads and rope-moulded architraves and the second floor has ogee-headed windows with floreated stringcourses and projecting balconies to single windows, and the first floor has trefoil headed windows with capped columns arranged in Venetian manner either side of a splayed oriel window.[211]

Plas Castell Gatehouse, Denbigh

The use of patterned or polychrome brickwork, sometimes associated terracotta was popular in the towns in Montgomeryshire and North Eastern Wales in the 1870s and 1880s. A striking example is the Plas Castell Gatehouse at Denbigh, a Tudoresque

pharonic head-dress.[212]

Italianate style architecture

Llandovery Town Hall, by R K Penson, 1857-8
Penoyre House, near Brecon
Parc Howard museum 1882-6

Prompted by Queen Victoria's

Osbourne House, the Italianate style of architecture became popular in the second half of the 19th century. Features of this stye include belvedere towers and roofs with a shallow slope and wide eaves. In Wales R. K Penson was a leading exponent of the style. Penson had an extensive practice in the south of Wales, particular in church building and restoration, but examples of his use of the Italianate style include Llandovery Town Hall and the gate lodge to Nanteos. The style was popular for country houses in Carmarthenshire and include the now demolished Pant Glas at Llanfynydd and Gellideg at Llandyfaelog.[213] Pant Glas was built in 1850 and Gellideg in 1852. The architect for the latter being William Wesley Jenkins.[214] A later example of the Italianate style is the Parc Howard Museum on the outskirts of Llanelli, originally known as Bryncaerau Castle. The house, faced in Bath stone was built to designs by J. B. Wilson between 1882 and 1886.[215]

Old College, Aberystwyth

Aberystwyth Old University Building.

J.P. Seddon was a London architect who developed an extensive practice in south Wales. Initially he worked with John Prichard from 1853 to 1859 and then with John Coates Carter, who had an office in Cardiff, until 1904. Seddon was surveyor to Llandaff Cathedral and most of his work was church building and parsonages for the Llandaff Diocese.[216]

Seddon built some notable country houses such as Abermad House in

Gothic Architecture. The stone used comes from Cefn at Minera, dressed with Bath stone. He also used an artificial stone and concrete in parts of the building.[218]

William Burges in Cardiff

William Burges' contribution to Welsh architecture was notable but limited to three buildings, Cardiff Castle, Castell Coch and Park House, all three in Cardiff. His castles had little influence on other architecture in Wales. The influence of Park House was much more significant; John Newman considers the house "revolutionized Cardiff's domestic architecture"[219] and the Cadw Grade I listed building status given to the house records it as "the pattern for much housing in Cardiff in later C19. Perhaps the most important (nineteenth century) town house in Wales."[220]

Park House, Park Place, Cardiff

Park House was built between 1871 and 1875 for James McConnochie, the dock engineer to Bute Estate and mayor of Cardiff.[221] The house draws on various French Gothic elements and is reminiscent of the Town Hall of St. Antonin, restored by Viollet le Duc in 1843, with late Romanesque and a Gothic arcade, but with added 15th-century dormer windows.[222] It is built with grey Caerphilly stone and Bath stone dressings; steeply-pitched slate roofs, stone chimneys. Features of the house were imitated by other late Victorian houses in Cardiff, but similar houses such as Llanilar at Abermad (1870–1872) in Ceredigion were being built by John Pollard Seddon.[223]

Planned townscapes, rural and industrial housing

Alban Square, Aberaeron laid out Edward Haycock

During the latter part of the 18th century and during the 19th century, the laying out of towns, villages and industrial settlements gathered momentum. It was work often done by architects and land-surveyors. The layout and design of

Gregynog was to experiment in 1870 with concrete houses for his estate workers at Tregynon[226]
The following is a selection of some of the Industrial and Estate village built in this period:

Cottage Ornee Village at Marford
  • pisé or clay in 1814.[233]
Berriew, Montgomeryshire
  • bargeboards to the gables and in some cases the black and white painting on the brick work to give the impression of timber framing.[235]
    Cottages by John Gibson for the Plas Power EstateBersham
.
  • Bersham. Two pleasing groupings of estate cottages for Thomas Lloyd Fitzhugh of Plas Power by
    Sir Charles Barry on the Houses of Parliament is best known as the architect for the Marble Church, Bodelwyddan. The first group of cottages of 1859 have decorative bargeboards.[236]
  • Llandegai, the Estate village for Penrhyn Castle laid out in the mid-19th century by James Wyatt !795–1882), son of Benjamin Wyatt. Picturesque Tudor style cottages with steep gables[237]
  • Industrial and workers' housing

    Cottages from Rhyd-y-Car, now at St Fagans
    St Fagan's Folk Museum. while slate and other quarrying settlements in north Wales were often located in remote and isolated places such as Cwm [Penmachno] or Nant Gwrtheyrn. At Nant Gwertheyn, now a Welsh Language learning centre, is situated in a steep ravine and the granite was shipped out by sea. It was originally laid out c. 1878 for the granite quarry workers. There are two terraces of cottages, a Quarry manager's house and a chapel round a green. The quarry closed in 1914 and the last inhabitant left in 1959.[238] For some skilled workers very much better housing was provided. Railway workers at Railway Terrace in Ruthin were provided with rather superior accommodation by the long closed Vale of Clwyd Railway in 1864[239]

    Jacobethan & Tudorbethan

    Plas Fynnon, Nercwys, 1877

    The work of John Douglas the Chester architect, extended into Wales. Plas Fynnon, Nercwys, built as the vicarage to St. Mary's Parish Church in Tudorbethan style has been attributed to him. Built of brown brick with red brick and sandstone detailing under a steeply-pitched tiled roof with over sailing eaves and plain ridge. Asymmetrical facade with advanced, 2-storey gabled porch with moulded purlin-ends, brackets and plain finial. Tudor-arched entrance of tooled ashlar, stopped and moulded and with date 1877 carved in the spandrels.

    plinth with sandstone dressings, and a Ruabon tile roof. It has an L-shape with a main north wing and a west service wing.[241]
    The style was used by the Shrewsbury architect James Pickhard for building Fronfraith Hall in Llandyssil in Montgomeryshire in 1863.[242]

    The Hendre in Monmouthshire.

    A more important example of this style is the Neo-Tudor extensions to

    Arts and Crafts Neo-Tudor Library Wing. This created a house with a corridor from the front door to the library of no less than 75 metres. The interior was furnished with much genuine Tudor and Jacobean woodwork, which had been collected from local houses.[243]

    Arts and crafts

    Bryniargo House, Rhayader 1893
    Free Library, Newtown (now the Robert Owen Museum), Frank Shayler, 1902
    Chepstow – The Lodge on Mount Way

    Norman Shaw style" with stone, tile hanging and half-timbered gables.[245]

    Later Arts and Crafts

    Tŷ Bronna

    The Arts and Crafts movement progressed in Wales very much under the influence of

    Modernist architecture.[248]

    Architecture of this style was produced by Herbert Luck North in north Wales and on occasion by Clough Williams-Ellis in his designs for council smallholdings adapted by Montgomeryshire County Council.[249] This style was developed by the Garden City movement and was widely used on Welsh garden villages and housing schemes until after the Second World War.

    At Harlech the Glasgow architect George Henry Walton, better known for his Art Nouveau architecture, was to design Wern Fawr in 1908 and also the St David's Hotel (1907–1911); the latter burnt down in 1922.[250]

    Cardiff architecture of the Victorian and early 20th centuries

    Cardiff Old Library, South Front 1882
    Morgans Hotel, Swansea

    An architect who made a notable contribution to the public and commercial architecture of Cardiff was Edwin Seward.[251] In 1875, he became part of the James, Seward and Thomas Partnership.[252] In 1880 Seward won a competition for the design of the Cardiff Free Library, which consisted of a Library, Museum and Schools for Science and Art. The first phase was completed in 1882, but it was not finally completed until 1896.[253] In 1881 Seward enlarged the Cardiff Union Workhouse with a new entrance building on the Cowbridge Road frontage with a 3-storey tower and clock face, still in a late Gothic revival style. This building was to become the St David's Hospital.[254] This was also the style Seward adopted for the Cardiff Royal Infirmary of 1883[255]

    Seward's next building, the Cardiff Coal Exchange in Butetown was built between 1883 and 1888 and it is moving more towards a Baroque revival style, although Newman calls it a "debased French Renaissance style".[256] In 1894 Seward produced his "Dream of the Future" for Cardiff, which appeared in the Western Mail in February 1894 and also plans for Cardiff Museum.[257] This, however, was overtaken by the development of Cathays Park starting in 1905, for which he did not get a commission. In 1895 he designed the Morgan Arcade in Cardiff and the following year the Turner Gallery at Penarth. Finally in 1902–1903 he was responsible for the monumental Swansea Docks Trust Office now Morgans Hotel, Swansea.[258]

    Earlier 20th-century architecture

    Baroque Revival architecture

    National Museum of Wales, Cardiff
    Cardiff City Hall
    Barry dock offices

    Baroque Revival architecture is variously described as

    National Museum of Wales was added to this grouping in the modified American Neo-Barogue or Beaux-Arts style by the London architects Smith and Brewer[260] and later extended by the Welsh architects T. Alwyn Lloyd and Alex Gordon.[261]
    The Baroque Revival style was also used for a range of other public buildings, banks and schools and universities. A refined example of this style was used by Alfred Cross for the Edward Davies Building at Aberystwyth University, was the first purpose-built chemical laboratory in a British university. It was opened in 1907 by Lord Asquith and remained a functioning Chemistry Department until 1988. It now serves as the School of Art Building.[262]

    F Inigo Thomas also remodelled Ffynone House at Newchapel in Pembrokeshire in a neo-Baroque in 1902–1907 with massive rusticated quoining added to the facade. The house had originally been built by John Nash in 1792–1797.[263]

    Mold town hall
    Barry Town Hall

    One of the earliest examples in Wales of the

    Rhosllannerchrugog Miners' Institute, close to Wrexham, which was built much later, between 1924 and 1926, by the local architects John Owen and F A Roberts.[265] In Barry the Docks Office was followed in 1903–1908 by the town hall, which was built by the architects Charles E Hutchinson and E Harding Payne in red brick and lavish Bath Stone adjoined by a seven-bay public library with the centre three bays defined by giant Ionic pilasters.[266] Equally ambitious, but on a smaller scale, is the red brick and limestone Town Hall by F A Roberts at Mold in Flintshire.[267]

    Baroque revival was also a favoured style for bank architecture. An example is the former North and South Wales Bank, now HSBC in Aberystwyth. This was by Woodfall and Eccles of Liverpool and was built in 1908–1909. Three-bay frontage, with a recessed centre framed columns and topped by a broken curved pediment.[204]

    An example of the use of the American Beaux-Arts style is the James Howell & Co. (now House of Fraser) department store[268] in St Mary's Street. This was the work of Sir Percy Thomas in 1928–1930. It makes use of Erectheum Ionic columns with a rounded corner and a memorable relief sculpture frieze designed by Thomas which symbolises the drapery trade.[269]

    Garden villages

    Inter-war architecture

    Glamorgan Building, Cathays Park

    Hilling, writing in 1976, remarks that in Wales "the interwar period is almost devoid of significantly progressive buildings and the abstract Neo-classicism of those public building that were erected had more in common with the architecture of Albert Speer and the Nazi and Fascist architecture."[282]

    The leading Welsh architect of the inter-War years was Sir Percy Thomas.[283]

    The

    Burton menswear store in Abergavenny is a noted example of Art Deco. Built in 1937, it is a Grade II* listed building.[284]

    In Ammanford the impressive classical Miner's Welfare Hall, now the Miner's Theatre was built to the designs of J.O. Parry, around 1935. Classical front in brick with giant

    Ionic columns is mixed with modernist fenestration and detailing[285]

    Art Deco and international Modernist school of architecture

    Villa Marina Llandudno

    Examples of Art Deco buildings in Wales are limited largely to Cinemas and houses. Possibly the best example of a cinema is the recently closed Pola Cinema in Berriew Street, Welshpool, with its attractive curved frontage and good stained glass, which was completed in 1938.[286] An important house in the International Modernist style is the Villa Marina, set on the seafront at Llandudno.[287] It was designed by Harry Weedon in 1936[288] well known as a cinema architect. It restored in the 2000s.[289]

    Penarth Pier 2013
    Rear of the pavilion (Penarth Pier) December 2013

    An example of Art Deco architecture is Penarth Pier. The original cast-iron pier was designed by H. F. Edwards in 1892–1894. In 1927–1928 a pier pavilion was built in Ferro concrete to designs by L.G. Mouchel and Partners. Mouchel was founded in Briton Ferry (now in Neath Port Talbot) in 1897[290] by Louis Gustave Mouchel, who arrived in the UK from France with a licence to use the new technique of reinforcing concrete using iron bars that had been developed by François Hennebique.[290] was a pioneer in the use of re-enforced concrete, although the pavilion was built after Mouchel's death. The pavilion has topee shaped dome lets and a semicircular Tuscan colonnade.[291]

    An example of Mouchel's use of Ferro-Concrete is the White Bridge at Pontypridd. This was built in 1907, to designs by P R A Willoughby, surveyor to Pontypridd Urban District Council, in association with L G Mouchel & Partners. The contractor was Watkin Williams & Page. Its river span, of 35 metres, was when built, the longest reinforced concrete arch in Britain.[292]

    The architecture of Clough Williams-Ellis

    Llangoed Hall
    Portmeirion

    Lutyens[295] Other work in Wales by Clough Williams-Ellis includes the Festiniog Memorial Hospital of 1922, Pentrefelin Village Hall, the Conway Fall Cafe. At Aberdaron he designed the Old Post Office in a vernacular style in 1950.[296] An important later commission was the redesign and rebuilding of Nantclwyd Hall in Denbighshire
    Clough Williams- Ellis was equally capable in working in the Modernist idiom of the interwar years. This is well demonstrated by the recently restored Caffi Moranedd at Criccieth and the now demolished Snowdon Summit Station of 1934, which was demolished in 2007.[297]

    However, his more memorable creation in Wales is the

    capriccio town of Portmeirion on the coast of the Llŷn Peninsula near to Porthmadog. This is notable not only as an architectural composition, but also because Clough Williams-Ellis was able to preserve fragments from other now demolished buildings from Wales and Cheshire. These include the plaster ceiling from Emral Hall[298] The village was built in two phases, one before 1939 and the other 1954–1976, with Williams-Ellis designing most of the buildings.[299]

    Post-war architecture in Wales

    Neuadd Tysul, Llandysul, 1955

    In the years following the 2nd World War resources mainly went on the provision of housing. During these years of austerity some public buildings were constructed including the village hall or Neuadd Tysul at

    crow stepped gables and the attractive Festival of Britain lettering.[300]

    During the 1960s local Government started to commission some notable buildings. Foremost amongst these is the

    Brutalist building in Ship Street, but its position is hemmed in and led to destruction of other older buildings in the street[303]

    Swansea Crown Court

    In the Post War Period many major building projects started to be awarded to Welsh architectural firms. Leading firms were

    Capita Symonds[304]
    The first true skyscraper in Wales was the Capital Tower in Cardiff. It was completed in 1969–1970 and providing 190,000 sq ft (18,000 m2) of floor space over 25 storeys. It was originally known as Pearl House and was designed by the London firm Sir John Burnet and Partners which became Burnet Tait & Lorne.[305]

    1980–2000

    Inside the Great Glasshouse, designed by Foster and Partners.
    Great Glass House

    A notable project at the end of the 20th century was the creation of the National Botanic Garden of Wales. The most striking feature of this was the Great Glasshouse. Designed 1995–1996 by Foster and Partners and built 1997–1999. This is the largest single span glasshouse in the world 110 metres long and 60 metres wide. The roof, an "elliptical torus", is carried on twenty-four elliptical arches and covers 3,500 square metres, and provides Wales with a building of international note.[300]

    21st-century architecture

    Malator, Pembrokeshire
    Malator (known locally as "Teletubby House")

    Ushering in the 21st-century architecture in Wales was Jan Kaplicky's of

    Nolton in Pembrokeshire. The site overlooks St Bride's bay and is within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park. The house was built in 1998 and is a notable example of Eco architecture. It is excavated into the sloping ground and is turf roofed. The house appears as a low hillock with only a metal flue rising from the grassThe seaward elevation is entirely of glass. Steel framed construction with a ring beam that supports the roof.[306]

    Meridian Gate and Altolusso, Cardiff

    Tower blocks

    Currently the tallest building in Wales is The Tower, Meridian Quay at Swansea, which is 107 meters high and completed in 2010. The tower has 29 storeys, double the number of the previous tallest building in Swansea, the

    BT Tower. Most of The Tower houses residential apartments. The design was by Latitude Architects and elliptical shape of the building is reminiscent of the work of the Austrian architect Heinz Tesar. The only other high rise buildings in Wales are in Cardiff.[307]

    Millennium Centre

    Cardiff Bay Welsh Millennium Centre

    The most striking building of 21st-century Wales is the Millennium centre on Cardiff Bay. The centre was designed by Jonathan Adams, of local practice Percy Thomas Architects[308] Wales Millennium Centre (Welsh: Canolfan Mileniwm Cymru) is an arts centre located in the Cardiff Bay area of Cardiff. The site covers a total area of 4.7 acres (1.9 ha).[309]

    The Centre comprises one large theatre and two smaller halls with shops, bars and restaurants. It houses the national orchestra and opera, dance, theatre and literature companies, a total of eight arts organisations in residence.[310] It is also home to the Cardiff Bay Visitor Centre. The main theatre, the Donald Gordon Theatre, has 1,897 seats, the BBC Hoddinott Hall 350 and the Weston Studio Theatre 250.[311]

    The Senedd

    Senedd Wales gallery
    Welsh Assembly column interior

    The Senedd building houses the debating chamber and committee rooms of the Senedd (Welsh Parliament; Welsh: Senedd Cymru). It was completed in 2006. The building faces south west over Cardiff Bay, it has a glass façade around the entire building and is dominated by a steel roof and wood ceiling. It has three floors, the first and second floors are accessible is to the public and the ground floor is a private area for officials. The building was designed to be as open and accessible as possible, the architects, the

    Richard Rogers Partnership (RRP) said "The building was not to be an insular, closed edifice. Rather it would be a transparent envelope, looking outwards to Cardiff Bay and beyond, making visible the inner workings of the Assembly and encouraging public participation in the democratic process."[312] The main area in the building is the debating chamber, called the Siambr, including a public viewing gallery. Other areas of the building are the Neuadd, which is the main reception area on the first floor and the Oriel on the second floor. The three committee rooms and the Cwrt are on the ground floor.[313]

    See also

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    241. ^ Newman (2000), pp. 247–256
    242. ^ Scourfield and Haslam (2013), p. 409, fig
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    244. ^ Newman (1995), pp. 289–90 & pl.
    245. ^ Restoration by Willis Construction for the Church Army [4]
    246. ^ Pevsner N. (1940/1968) C. F. A. Voysey, Studies in Art, Architecture and design, Vol. 2, 140–151
    247. ^ Haslam (1996) p. 30, pl. 8 and particularly the design in pl. 11 of 1911, which was modified for many of the Council's smallholdings after the First World War
    248. ^ Pevsner, N. Studies Vol. 2 p. 181. and Haslam et al. (2009), pp. 615–6
    249. ^ Jacqueline Banerjee, Edwin Seward (1853–1924) and the Building of the Welsh Capital http://www.victorianweb.org/victorian/art/architecture/seward/index.html
    250. ^ Brodie (2001) Vol. 2 (L–Z), p. 581
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    Literature

    General literature

    County and Area surveys

    Interiors and individual houses

    Building materials

    Vernacular architecture

    Agricultural buildings

    • Robinson, J. M. (1983), Georgian Model Farms: A Study of Decorative and Model Farm Buildings in the Age of Improvement 1700–1846. Oxford.
    • Wade-Martins, S. (2002), The English Model Farm – Building the Agricultural Ideal, 1700–1914 English Heritage/Windgather Press.
    • Wiliam, E. (1986) Historical Farm Buildings of Wales, John Donald, Edinburgh

    Industrial buildings and transport

    • Hughes, S. (1990), The Brecon Forest Tramroad: The Archaeology of an Early Railway System,
      RCAHMW
      .
    • Hughes, S. (2000), Copperopolis: Landscapes of the Early Industrial Period in Swansea
    • Lowe, J. (1985), Welsh Industrial Workers Housing 1775–1875, National Museum of Wales.

    Architects

    • British Listed Buildings: Wales [8]
    • Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Wales, Coflein-[9]
    • VAG (Vernacular Architecture Group) – Database of Dendrochronological dates including Wales: [10]
    • Archiseek: Images of mainly Victorian and Edwardian architecture in Wales [11]
    • Description of Listed Buildings in Wrexham with excellent photographs [12][usurped]
    • Banerjee, Jacqueline Edwin Seward (1853–1924) and the Building of the Welsh Capital [13]
    • Welsh Building Stones: Welsh Stones Forum. [14]
    • Welsh Brickmaking and Brickyards. [15]