Isle of Lewis
Isle of Lewis
| |
---|---|
Area | 683 sq mi (1,770 km2) |
Population | 18,500 |
• Density | 27/sq mi (10/km2) |
Demonym | Leòdhasach, Lewisian |
Language | Scottish Gaelic English |
OS grid reference | NB3030 |
• Edinburgh | 276 miles (444 km) |
Council area | |
Lieutenancy area | |
Country | Scotland |
Sovereign state | United Kingdom |
Post town | STORNOWAY ISLE OF LEWIS |
Postcode district | HS1, HS2 |
Dialling code | 01851 |
Police | Scotland |
Fire | Scottish |
Ambulance | Scottish |
UK Parliament | |
Scottish Parliament | |
Official name | Lewis Peatlands |
Designated | 22 December 2000 |
Reference no. | 1046[1] |
The Isle of Lewis
Lewis is, in general, the lower-lying part of the island: the other part, Harris, is more mountainous. Due to its larger area and flatter, more fertile land, Lewis contains three-quarters of the population of the Western Isles, and the largest settlement, Stornoway. The island's diverse habitats are home to an assortment of flora and fauna, such as the golden eagle, red deer and seal, and are recognised in a number of conservation areas.
Lewis has a
Name
Pronunciation | ||
---|---|---|
Scots Gaelic : |
Eilean Leòdhais | |
Pronunciation: | [elan ˈʎɔːəʃ] ⓘ | |
Scots Gaelic : |
Eilean an Fhraoich | |
Pronunciation: | [ˈelan ən̪ˠ rˠɯːç] ⓘ |
The
History
The earliest evidence of human habitation on Lewis is found in
About 500 BC, island society moved into the
Lewis (and the rest of the Western Isles) became part of Scotland once more in 1266: under the
During the First World War, thousands of islanders served in the forces, many losing their lives, including 208 naval reservists from the island who were returning home after the war when the Admiralty yacht
In May 1918 the Isle of Lewis was purchased by the soap magnate
Historical sites
The Isle of Lewis has a variety of locations of historical and archaeological interest, including:
- Callanish Stones associated with the Clan Morrison among others
- Dun Carloway Broch
- Iron Age houses near Bostadh (Great Bernera)
- The Garenin blackhouse village in Carloway and the Black House at Arnol
- Bragar whale bone arch
- St Columba's church in Aignish
- Ness
- Clach an Truiseil monolith
- Clach an Tursa, Carloway
- Bonnie Prince Charlie's Monument, Arnish
- Lews Castle
- Butt of Lewis cliffs and Butt of Lewis Lighthouse
- Nessarea
- Ui Church, burial place of the Clan Chiefs MacLeod of Lewis and MacKenzie
There are also numerous lesser stone circles and the remains of five further brochs.
Geography and geology
Much of Lewis consists of mostly sandy beaches backed by dunes and machair on the Atlantic west coast, giving way to an expansive peat-covered plateau in the centre of the island. The eastern coastline is markedly more rugged and is mostly rocky cliffs broken by small coves and beaches. The more fertile nature of the eastern side led to the majority of the population settling there, including the largest (and only) town, Stornoway. Aside from the village of Achmore in the centre of the island, all settlements are on the coast.[9]
Compared with Harris, Lewis is relatively flat, except in the south-west, where Mealaisbhal, 574 m (1,883 ft), is the highest point, and in the south-east, where Beinn Mhor reaches 572 m (1,877 ft); but there are 16 high points exceeding 300 m (980 ft) in height.[10] Southern Lewis also has a large number of freshwater lochs compared to the north of the island.
The coastline is severely indented, creating a number of large sea lochs, such as Lochs
Geology
The geology of Lewis is dominated by the
Climate
Exposure to the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf Stream lead to a cool, moist climate on Lewis. There is relatively little temperature difference between summer and winter, both of which are moderately cloudy (although cloud and wet weather often blows over quickly in summer). Both seasons also have significant rainfall and frequent high winds, particularly during the autumn equinox. These winds have led to Lewis being designated a potential site for a significant wind-farm, which has caused much controversy amongst the population.
Climate data for Lewis | |||||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) | 7.0 (44.6) |
7.4 (45.3) |
8.7 (47.7) |
11.0 (51.8) |
12.7 (54.9) |
15.0 (59.0) |
16.7 (62.1) |
16.2 (61.2) |
14.7 (58.5) |
12.2 (54.0) |
9.5 (49.1) |
7.5 (45.5) |
11.6 (52.8) |
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) | 2.8 (37.0) |
3.0 (37.4) |
3.1 (37.6) |
4.6 (40.3) |
6.4 (43.5) |
9.1 (48.4) |
10.9 (51.6) |
10.8 (51.4) |
9.6 (49.3) |
7.4 (45.3) |
5.0 (41.0) |
2.8 (37.0) |
6.3 (43.3) |
Average rainfall mm (inches) | 118.8 (4.68) |
136.4 (5.37) |
150.4 (5.92) |
84.8 (3.34) |
124.8 (4.91) |
98.0 (3.86) |
119.0 (4.69) |
150.6 (5.93) |
141.2 (5.56) |
187.0 (7.36) |
165.0 (6.50) |
224.4 (8.83) |
1,700.4 (66.95) |
Mean monthly sunshine hours | 34.5 | 63.4 | 104.9 | 147.1 | 192.2 | 166.4 | 127.9 | 132.6 | 106.6 | 77.2 | 44.3 | 26.2 | 1,223.3 |
Source 1: Met Office (Data January 1874 – November 2006)
Temperature figures are average figures for that month; other figures are averages of monthly totals. | |||||||||||||
Source 2: Hebrides Weather[17] |
Nature
There are 15 Sites of Special Scientific Interest on Lewis in the biology category, spread across the island. Additionally, the
Birds
Many species of seabirds inhabit the coastal areas of Lewis, including
In the
Marine life
Salmon frequent several Lewis rivers after crossing the Atlantic. Many of the fresh-water lochs are home to fish such as trout. Other freshwater fish present include Arctic char, European eel, 3 and 9 spined sticklebacks, thick-lipped mullet and flounder.
Offshore, it is common to see grey seals, particularly in Stornoway harbour, and with luck, dolphins, harbour porpoises, sharks and even the occasional whale can be encountered.[20]
Land mammals
There are only two native land mammals in the Western Isles: red deer and otter. The rabbit, mountain hare, hedgehog, feral cat, polecat and both brown and black rats were introduced. The origin of mice and voles is uncertain.[19]
American mink, another introduced species (escapees from fur farms), cause problems for native ground-nesting birds, the local fishing industry and poultry farmers.[21] Mink have been successfully eradicated[22] from the Uists and Barra. The second and ongoing phase of the Hebridean Mink Project aims to rid Lewis and Harris of mink in similar fashion.[23]
There are claims that the Stornoway castle grounds are home to bats.[24] In addition, some residents keep farm animals such as Hebridean sheep, Highland cattle or kyloe and a few pigs.
Reptiles and amphibians
Insects
The island's most famous insect resident is the Scottish midge which is ever-present near water at certain times of the year.
During the summer months, several species of butterflies and dragonflies can be found, especially around Stornoway.
The richness of insect life in Lewis is evident from the abundance of carnivorous plants that thrive in parts of the island.
Flora
Lewis was once covered by woodland, but the only natural woods remaining are in small pockets on inland cliffs and on islands within lochs, away from fire and sheep. In recent years, Forestry Commission plantations of spruce and pine were planted, although most of the pines were destroyed by moth infestation. The most important mixed woods are those planted around Lews Castle in Stornoway, dating from the mid-19th century.[27]
Politics and government
Historically, while Harris was part of Inverness-shire, Lewis was part of Ross-shire or Ross and Cromarty. The Western Isles Islands Council was established in 1975. Now called Comhairle nan Eilean Siar, its remit covers the whole of the Outer Hebrides and its headquarters are in Stornoway.
Lewis is home to the majority of the Western Isles' electorate and six of the nine multi-member council wards are within Lewis and one is shared with Harris. 22 councillors are effectively elected by Lewis residents using the
The Isle of Lewis is in the Highlands electoral region and is part of the identical Na h-Eileanan an Iar Scottish Parliamentary and Na h-Eileanan an Iar Westminster constituencies, both currently represented by members of the Scottish National Party (SNP) and previously held by members of the Labour Party before the respective elections.
Current representatives
- UK Parliament: Angus MacNeil MP (SNP), first elected in 2005
- Scottish Parliament: Alasdair Allan MSP (SNP), first elected in 2007
Demographics
Lewis' main settlement, the only burgh on the Outer Hebrides, is Stornoway (Scottish Gaelic: Steòrnabhagh), from which ferries sail to Ullapool on the Scottish mainland. In the 2011 census Lewis had a population of 19,658.
The island's settlements are on or near the coasts or
Parishes and districts of Lewis
- There are four parishes: Barvas (Barabhas), Lochs (Na Lochan), Stornoway (Steòrnabhagh), and Uig on which the original civil registration districts were based. The district of Carloway (after the village of that name) which hitherto had fallen partly within the parishes of Lochs and Uig, became a separate civil registration district in 1859.
- The districts of Lewis are Point(An Rubha), Stornoway, West Side, Bernera and Uig. These designations are traditional and in use by the entire population.
- For civil registration purposes Lochs (Na Lochan) is nowadays split into North Lochs (Na Lochan a Tuath) and South Lochs (Na Lochan a Deas).
- The West Sideis a generic designation for the area covering the villages from Borve to Dalbeg (Siabost).
It is claimed that the site of the Stornoway War Memorial was chosen as it would be visible from at least one location in each of the four parishes; therefore, it may be possible to see all four parishes of Lewis from the top of the monument.[30]
Settlements
While Lewis has only one town, Stornoway, with a population of approx 8,000, there are also several large villages and groupings of villages on Lewis, such as North Tolsta, Carloway and Leurbost with significant populations. Near Stornoway, Laxdale, Sandwick and Holm, although still de facto villages, have now become quasi-suburbs of Stornoway. The population of the greater-Stornoway area including these (and other) villages would be nearer 12,000. The island of Great Bernera contains the first planned crofting township created in the Outer Hebrides, Kirkibost created in 1805. This village was subsequently 'cleared' in 1823 and re-settled in 1878 using the exact land lotting divisions from 1805.
The following is a non-exhaustive list of villages in Lewis according to their location:
- Back
- Back, Coll, Gress, North Tolsta, Tong
- Ness
- , Cross-Skigersta Road
- North Lochs
- Achmore, Grimshader, Leurbost, Ranish, Crossbost, Keose, Keose Glebe, Laxay, Balallan, Airidhbhruaich
- Park(South Lochs)
- Shieldenish, Habost, Kershader, Garyvard, Caverstay, Cromore, Marvig, Calbost, Gravir, Lemreway, Orinsay
- Point
- Upper Bayble, Eagleton
- Uig
- Breanish, Islivik, Meavag, Mangursta, Crowlista, Geishader, Carishader, Gisla, Carloway, Garynahine, Callanish, Breasclete, Breaclete, Kirkibost, Tobson, Hacklete
- West Side
- Stornoway area
- Branahuie, Holm, Laxdale, Marybank, Melbost, Newmarket, Newvalley, Parkend, Plasterfield, Sandwick, Steinish
Economy
Traditional industries on Lewis are crofting, fishing and weaving. Though historically important, they are currently in decline and crofting in particular is little more than a subsistence venture today. Over 40% of the working population is employed by the public sector (chiefly Comhairle nan Eilean Siar, the local authority; and NHS Western Isles). Tourism is the only growing commercial industry.
According to the Scottish Government, "tourism is by far and away the mainstay industry" of the Outer Hebrides, "generating £65m in economic value for the islands, sustaining around 1000 jobs". The report adds that the "islands receive 219,000 visitors per year".[31] The Outer Hebrides tourism bureau states that 10–15% of economic activity on the islands was made up of tourism in 2017. The agency states that the "exact split between islands is not possible" when calculating the number of visits, but "the approximate split is Lewis (45%), Uist (25%), Harris (20%), Barra (10%)".[32]
Despite the name, the Harris tweed industry is today focused in Lewis, with the major finishing mills in Shawbost and Stornoway. Every length of cloth produced is stamped with the official Orb symbol, trademarked by the Harris Tweed Association in 1909, when Harris Tweed was defined as "hand-spun, hand-woven and dyed by the crofters and cottars in the Outer Hebrides"; Machine-spinning and vat dyeing have since replaced hand methods, and only weaving is now conducted in the home, under the governance of the Harris Tweed Authority, established by an Act of Parliament in 1993. Harris Tweed is now defined as "hand woven by the islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides, finished in the islands of Harris, Lewis, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist and Barra and their several purtenances (The Outer Hebrides) and made from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides."[33]
Aside from the concentration of industry and services in the Stornoway area, many of the historical sites have associated visitor centres, shops or cafes.[34] There is a pharmaceutical plant near Breasclete which specialises in fatty acid research.[35]
The main fishing fleet (and associated shoreside services) in Stornoway is somewhat reduced from its heyday, but many smaller boats perform inshore creel fishing and operate from smaller, local harbours right around Lewis. There are
Commerce
Stornoway is the commercial centre of Lewis; there are several national chains with shops in the town, two national supermarket chains as well as numerous local businesses. Outwith Stornoway, many villages have an all-purpose shop (often combined with a post office). Some villages have more than one, with these usually being specialist stores such as pharmacies or petrol stations. There are almost no rural public houses (for the sale of alcohol); instead, local hotels or inns function as meeting, eating and drinking places, often with accommodation provided. Recently, Abhainn Dearg distillery at Carnish, Uig, on the Isle of Lewis is producing Scotch whisky, the first legal whisky in over 200 years.
Itinerant, travelling shops also tour the island visiting some of the more remote locations. The ease of transport to Stornoway and the advent of the internet have led to many of the village shops closing in recent times. Mobile banking services are provided to remote villages by the Royal Bank of Scotland's travelling bank.
Transport
Suggestions for the possibility of an undersea tunnel linking Lewis to the Scottish mainland were raised in early 2007. One of the possible routes, between Stornoway and Ullapool, would be over 50 miles (80 km) long and hence the longest road tunnel in the world;[36][37] however, shorter routes would be possible.
Stornoway is the public transport hub of Lewis, with bus services to Point, Ness, Back and Tolsta, Uig, the West Side, Lochs and Tarbert, Harris. These services are provided by the local authority and several private operators as well as some community-run organisations.
Peats
Peat is still cut as a fuel in many areas of Lewis. Peat is usually cut in late spring with a tool called a tairsgeir (that is, a peat iron, peat spade, peat knife or tosg; sometimes toirsgian) which has a long wooden handle with an angled blade on one end. The peat bank is first cleared of heather turfs. The peat, now exposed, is cut using the tairsgeir and the peats thrown out on the bank to dry. A good peat cutter can cut 1000 peats in a day.[38]
Once dried, the peats are carted to the croft and built into a large stack. These often resembled the shape of the croft house – broad, curved at each end and tapered to a point about 2 metres high. They varied in length from about 4 to 14 metres. Peat stacking also follows local customs and a well-built peat stack can be a work of art. Peat stacks provide additional shelter to houses. A croft can burn as many as 15,000–18,000 peats in a year.[38]
The odour of the peat-smoke, especially in wintertime, can add to the general atmosphere of the island. While peat burning still goes on, there has been a significant decline in recent years as people move to other, less labour-intensive forms of heating; however, it remains an important symbol of island life. In 2008, with the large increase in the price (and theft) of liquefied petroleum gas and heating oil, there were signs that there may be a return to peat cutting.
Religion
Religion is important in Lewis, with much of the population belonging to the
While Presbyterianism dominates Lewis, other denominations and other religions have a presence, with a
Some churches in Lewis practise
Education
School education in Lewis is under the remit of
Stornoway is home to a small campus of the
Culture and sport
Language
Lewis has a linguistic heritage rooted in
Most of the place names in Lewis and Harris come from
Media and the arts
As well as regularly playing host to the Royal National Mòd, there are annual local mòds. Stornoway Castle Green hosts the annual 3-day Hebridean Celtic Festival in July, attracting over 10,000 visitors. The festival includes events such as cèilidhs, dances and special concerts featuring storytelling, song and music with performers from all round the Isles and beyond.
The radio station
The Stornoway Gazette is the main local paper, covering Lewis and beyond and is published weekly. The Hebridean is a sister paper of the Gazette and also provides local coverage.[52] Some community organisations in the rural districts have their own publications with news and features for these particular areas, such as the Rudhach for the Point district.[53][54]
Lewis has been home to, or inspired, many writers, including bestselling contemporary author Kevin MacNeil, whose cult novel The Stornoway Way was set in the island's capital. In April 2020, the Isle of Lewis Distillery published a list of 10 recommended books that feature the Outer Hebrides.[55] Parts of the crime/mystery series by author GR Jordan are also set in this area, with the action in Water's Edge and Horror Weekend taking place primarily on the Isle.[56] [57]
Sport
There is a good provision of sporting grounds and sports centres in Lewis. Sports such as football, rugby union and golf are popular:
- Football, which grew in popularity after the first World War, is the most popular amateur sport in Lewis with Goathill Park in Stornoway hosting special matches involving select teams and visiting clubs and other organisations. Local teams currently participate in the Lewis and Harris Football League.
- Shinty which was traditionally played in the island as in the rest of the Scottish Gaelic-speaking areas of Scotland, died out by the mid-20th century at the latest. However, it was revived in the 1990s and there is now a strong local club known as Lewis Camanachd which competes in national competition.
- The village of Tong about 2 miles (3 km) from Stornoway plays host to the Highland Games and the Western Isles Strongest mancompetition each summer.
- Attached to the Nicolson Institute School is the Ionad Spors Leòdhais (Lewis Sports Centre), an all-weather pitch and running track.
- The Lews Castle Grounds is the home of Stornoway Golf Club (the only 18-hole golf course in the Outer Hebrides).
- Angling is a very popular pastime in Lewis as there are several good lochs and rivers for fishing.
- As Lewis is an island, various water sports, such as surfing are popular activities.
- Lewis has a terrain very suited to hillwalking, particularly in Uig and near the border with Harris.
Myths and legends
The Isle of Lewis has a rich folklore, including
Gastronomy
- Each year, men from gannetsknown locally as Guga, which are a local delicacy.
Notable residents
This section needs additional citations for verification. (October 2019) |
- POW, and author of the award-winning memoir Suathadh ri Iomadh Rubha.[59]
- Alistair Darling, Baron Darling of Roulanish, of Great Bernera in the county of Ross and Cromarty,[60] former Chancellor of the Exchequer and MP for Edinburgh Central, had a converted blackhouse at Breaclete and had ancestral links with Great Bernera.[61]
- Kenny Boyle, from Cromore, award winning actor, author, and playwright [62]
- Kenneth Grant Fraser, pioneer Christian missionary doctor in South Sudan
- Sheilagh M. Kesting, first woman minister to be nominated to be Moderator of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland
- Dòmhnall MacAmhlaighprofessor, scholar, and Scottish Gaelic poet
- Angus MacAskill, the tallest non-pathological giant in recorded history (7 ft 9 in, or 2.36 m) – born in Berneray and briefly lived in Stornoway before emigrating to Canada
- Murdo Stewart MacDonald from Great Bernera – Clipper Captain and Lloyds Surveyor of Shipping
- Callum Macdonald from Great Bernera – Foremost publisher of Scottish poetry in the 20th century
- Cathy MacDonald, BBC Alba television presenter; comes from Iarsiadar, Uig
- John MacKay, anchorman of STV News at 6 Central
- Alexander MacKenzie, explorer, for whom the Mackenzie River in Canada is named
- Colin Mackenzie, 1st Surveyor-General of India
- Anne MacKenzie, BBC current affairs presenter and radio presenter
- Ken MacLeod, science fiction writer
- Maighread Stiùbhart, Gaelic singer and folklorist
- Mary Anne MacLeod, mother of U.S. President Donald Trump
- Kevin MacNeil, novelist, poet and playwright
- Donald Macrae, physician, professor of neurology at University of California San Francisco School of Medicine. Awarded the Military Cross in World War II.[63][64]
- Hans Matheson, plays the title role in a television serialisation of Boris Pasternak's novel, Doctor Zhivago
- Alyth McCormack, singer
- Iain Morrison, musician
- war poet and winner of the Military Cross during World War I
- Linda Norgrove, kidnapped by the Taliban in Afghanistan, and killed in rescue effort
- Arthur Pink, Christian evangelist and Biblical scholar
- Donald Stewart, politician and former President of the Scottish National Party
- Louisa Caroline Stewart-Mackenzie(1827–1903) socialite and art collector
- Derick Thomson, Scottish Gaelic poet, from Point, and educated in Stornoway
- Alasdair White, musician (Fiddle, Whistle, Pipes, Bouzouki) plays with Battlefield Band
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- Thompson, Francis (1968) Harris and Lewis, Outer Hebrides. Newton Abbot. David & Charles. ISBN 0-7153-4260-6
External links
- Lewis travel guide from Wikivoyage
- Visitor's guide for the Isle of Lewis
- hebrides.ca Home of the Quebec-Hebridean Scots who were cleared from Lewis to Quebec 1838–1920s
- Website of the Western Isles Council with links to other resources
- Panoramas of the Island (QuickTime required)
- Wind power dilemma for Lewis
- Disabled access to Lewis for residents and visitors
- Encyclopædia Britannica. Vol. 16 (11th ed.). 1911. pp. 525–526. .
- Dedicated Isle of Lewis Chessmen Website