Ramla
Ramla
| |
---|---|
Modi'in in the background, 2013 | |
Coordinates: 31°55′39″N 34°51′45″E / 31.92750°N 34.86250°E | |
Country | Israel |
District | Central |
Subdistrict | Ramla Subdistrict |
Founded | c. 705–715 |
Government | |
• Mayor | Michael Vidal |
Area | |
• Total | 9,993 dunams (9.993 km2 or 3.858 sq mi) |
Population (2022)[1] | |
• Total | 79,132 |
• Density | 7,900/km2 (21,000/sq mi) |
Website | https://ramle.org.il/ |
Ramla or Ramle (
The city was founded in the early 8th century CE by the
It lost its role as a provincial capital shortly before the arrival of the First Crusaders (c. 1099), after which it became the scene of various battles between the Crusaders and Fatimids in the first years of the 12th century. Later that century, it became the centre of a lordship in the Kingdom of Jerusalem, a Crusader state established by Godfrey of Bouillon.
Ramla had an Arab-majority population before most were expelled during the 1948 Arab–Israeli War.[5] The town was subsequently repopulated by Jewish immigrants. Today, Ramla is one of Israel's mixed cities, with a population 76% Jewish and 24% Arab (see Arab citizens of Israel).[1][3]
History
Umayyad period
The Umayyad prince and governor of Palestine, Sulayman ibn Abd al-Malik, founded Ramla as the seat of his administration,[6][7][8] replacing Lydda, the Muslims' original provincial capital.[6][7] Sulayman had been appointed governor by his father Caliph Abd al-Malik before the end of his reign in 705 and continued in office through the reign of his brother Caliph al-Walid I (r. 705–715), whom he succeeded.[6] He died as caliph in 717. Ramla remained the capital of Palestine through the Fatimid period (10th–11th centuries).[9] Its role as the principal city and district capital came to an end shortly before the arrival of the First Crusaders in 1099.[10] It received its name, the singular form of raml (sand), from the sandy area in which it sat.[11]
Sulayman's motives for founding Ramla were personal ambition and practical considerations. The location of Ramla near Lydda, a long-established and prosperous city, was logistically and economically advantageous.[12] The area's economic importance was based on its strategic location at the intersection of the two major roads linking Egypt with Syria (the so-called "Via Maris") and linking Jerusalem with the Mediterranean coast.[13] Sulayman established his city in Lydda's vicinity, avoiding Lydda proper. This was likely due to a lack of available space for wide-scale development and agreements dating to the Muslim conquest in the 630s that, at least formally, precluded him from confiscating desirable property within Lydda.[12]
In a tradition recorded by the historian Ibn Fadlallah al-Umari (died 1347), a determined local Christian cleric refused Sulayman's requests for plots in the middle of Lydda. Infuriated, he attempted to have the cleric executed, but his local adviser Raja ibn Haywa dissuaded him and instead proposed building a new city at a superior, adjacent site.[14] In choosing the site, Sulayman utilized the strategic advantages of Lydda's vicinity while avoiding the physical constraints of an already-established urban center.[15] Historian Moshe Sharon holds that Lydda was "too Christian in ethos for the taste of the Umayyad rulers", particularly following the Arabization and Islamization reforms instituted by Abd al-Malik.[16]
According to al-Jahshiyari (died 942), Sulayman sought a lasting reputation as a great builder following the example of his father and al-Walid, the respective founders of the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem and the Great Mosque of Damascus. The construction of Ramla was Sulayman's "way to immortality" and "his personal stamp on the landscape of Palestine", according to Luz.[17]
The first structure Sulayman erected in Ramla was his palatial residence,
Sulayman built an aqueduct in the city called al-Barada, which transported water to Ramla from
Abbasid period
The Abbasids toppled the Umayyads in 750, confiscating the White Mosque and all other Umayyad properties in Ramla. The Abbasids annually reviewed the high costs of maintaining the Barada canal, though starting under the reign of Caliph al-Mu'tasim it became a regular part of the state's expenditures. In the late 9th century the Muslim inhabitants were composed mainly of Arabs and Persians, while the clients of the Muslims were Samaritans.[11]
The golden age of Ramla under the Umayyads and Abbasids, when the city overtook Jerusalem as a trade center, later gave way to a period of political instability and war beginning in the late 10th century. The Egypt-based Fatimids conquered Ramla in 969 and ten years later the city was destroyed by the
Nonetheless, the 10th-century Jerusalemite geographer
Conversely, the city's disadvantages included the severe muddiness of the place during the rainy winter season and its hard, sandy grounds due to its distance from natural water sources. The limited drinking water gathered in the city's cisterns were generally inaccessible to the poorer inhabitants.[11]
By 1011–1012, the Jarrahids controlled all of Palestine, except for the coastal towns, and captured Ramla from its Fatimid garrison, making it their capital. The city and the surrounding places were plundered by the Bedouin, impoverishing much of the population. The Jarrahids brought the
Persian geographer
Ramla is a great city, with strong walls built of stone, mortared, of great height and thickness, with iron gates opening therein. From the town to the sea-coast is a distance of three leagues. The inhabitants get their water from the rainfall, and in each house is a tank for storing the same, in order that there may always be a supply. In the middle of the Friday Mosque [White Mosque], also, is a large tank: and from it, when it is filled with water, anyone who wishes may take. The area of the mosque measures two hundred paces (Gam) by three hundred. Over one of its porches (suffah) is an inscription stating that on the 15th of Muharram, of the year 425 (=10th of December, 1033 CE), there came an earthquake[36] of great violence, which threw down a large number of buildings, but that no single person sustained an injury. In the city of Ramla there is marble in plenty, and most of the buildings and private houses are of this material; and, further, the surface thereof they do most beautifully sculpture and ornament. They cut the marble here with a toothless saw, which is worked with 'Mekka sand'. They saw the marble in length, as is the case with wood, to form the columns; not in across; they also cut it into slabs. The marbles that I saw here were of all colours, some variegated, some green, red, black and white. There is, too, at Ramla, a particular kind of fig, and this they export to all the countries round. This city Ramla, throughout Syria and the West, is known under the name of Filastin.[37][38]
Crusader period
The armies of the First Crusade took the hastily evacuated town without a fight. In the early years of the Crusader
Around 1163, the rabbi and traveller Benjamin of Tudela, who also mistook it for a more ancient city, visited "Rama, or Ramleh, where there are remains of the walls from the days of our ancestors, for thus it was found written upon the stones. About 300 Jews dwell there. It was formerly a very great city; at a distance of two miles (3 km) there is a large Jewish cemetery."[41]
Late medieval period
In the 1480s, in the late Mamluk era, Felix Fabri visited Ramla and described (among other things) the hammam there; "built in a wonderous and clever fashion".[42]
In the early days of the Ottoman period, in 1548, a census was taken recording 528 Muslim families and 82 Christian families living in Ramla.[43][44][45]
On
In 1838, Edward Robinson found Ramleh to be a town of about 3000 inhabitants, surrounded by olive-groves and vegetables. It had few streets, and the houses were made of stone and were well-built. There were several mosques in the town.[48]
In 1863, Victor Guérin noted that the Latin (Catholic) population was reduced to two priests and 50 parishioners.[49] In 1869, the population was given as 3,460; 3000 Muslims, 400 Greek Orthodox and 60 Catholics.[50]
In 1882, the
In 1889, 31 Jewish worker families settled in the town, which had no Jewish population at the time.[53]
British Mandate period
In the
Less than a decade later, the population had increased nearly 25%; the 1931 census recorded 10,347 people (8,157 Muslims, 2,194 Christians, five Jews, and two Druze), in a total of 2,339 houses.[56]
Ramla was connected to wired electricity (supplied by the Zionist-owned Palestine Electric Company) towards the end of the 1920s. Economist Basim Faris noted this fact as proof of Ramla's higher standard of living than neighbouring Lydda. In Ramla, he wrote, "economic demands triumph over nationalism" while Lydda, "which is ten minutes' walk from Ramleh, is still averse to such a convenience as electric current, and so is not as yet served; perhaps the low standard of living of the poor population prevents the use of the service at the present rates, which cannot compete with petroleum for lighting".[57]
The 1938 village statistics list the population ("Ramle, Er") as 11,950.[59]
The 1945/46 survey gives 'Ramle' a population of 15,160 (11,900 Muslims and 3,260 Christians).[60]
1947–48 war
Ramla was part of the territory allotted to a proposed Arab state under the
After a number of unsuccessful raids on Ramla, the Israeli army launched
State of Israel
Ramla became a mixed Jewish–Arab town within the state of Israel. Arab homes of those who left in Ramla were given by the Israeli government to Jews, first Holocaust refugees from Europe and then immigrants from Arab and Muslim countries.[68] In February 1949, the Jewish population was over 6,000. Ramla remained economically depressed over the next two decades, although the population steadily mounted, reaching 34,000 by 1972.[68]
A 2013 Israeli police report documented that the Central District ranks fourth among Israel's seven districts in terms of drug-related arrests.[69] Today, five of Israel's prisons are located in Ramla, including the maximum-security Ayalon Prison and the country's only women's prison, called Neve Tirza.[70] In 2015, Ramla had one of Israel's highest crime rates.[71]
Landmarks
White Tower
Pool of Arches
The Pool of Arches, also known as St. Helen's Pool and Bīr al-Anezīya, is an underground water cistern built during the reign of the Abbasid caliph
Great Mosque
The Crusaders built a cathedral in the first half on the 12th century, converted into a mosque when the
Franciscan church and hospice
The Hospice of St
Ramla Museum
The Ramla Museum is housed in the former municipal headquarters of the British Mandatory authorities. The building, from 1922, incorporates elements of Arab architecture such as arched windows and patterned tiled floors. After 1948, it was the central district office of the Israeli Ministry of Finance. In 2001, the building became a museum documenting the history of Ramla.
British Commonwealth War Cemetery
The
Archaeology
Identification
A tradition reported by Ishtori Haparchi (1280–1355) and other early Jewish writers is that Ramla was the biblical Gath of the Philistines.[78][79] Initial archaeological claims seemed to indicate that Ramla was not built on the site of an ancient city,[80] although in recent years the ruins of an older city were uncovered to the south of Ramla.[81] Earlier, Benjamin Mazar had proposed that ancient Gath lay at the site of Ras Abu Hamid east of Ramla.[82] Avi-Yonah, however, considered that to be a different Gath, usually now called Gath-Gittaim.[83] This view is also supported by other scholars, those holding that there was, both, a Gath (believed to be Tell es-Safi) and Gath-rimmon or Gittaim (in or near Ramla).[84][85]
Excavation history
Archaeological excavations in Ramla conducted in 1992–1995 unearthed the remains of a dyeing industry (Dar al-Sabbaghin, House of the Dyers) near the White Mosque; hydraulic installations such as pools, subterranean reservoirs and cisterns; and abundant ceramic finds that include glass, coins and jar handles stamped with Arabic inscriptions.[86] Excavations in Ramla continued into 2010, led by Eli Haddad, Orit Segal, Vered Eshed, and Ron Toueg, on behalf of the Israel Antiquities Authority (IAA).[87]
In January 2021, archaeologists from the Hebrew University of Jerusalem and Haifa University announced the discovery of six engravings on 120,000-year-old aurochs bone near the city of Ramla in the open-air Middle Paleolithic site of Nesher Ramla. According to archaeologist Yossi Zaidner, this finding was definitely the oldest in the Levant. Three-dimensional imaging and microscopic analysis were used to examine the bone. The six lines ranged in length from 38 to 42 millimeters.[88][89][90]
Geology
Earthquakes
The city has historically suffered severe damage from several major earthquakes, including the 1033 Jordan Rift Valley earthquake, 1068 Near East earthquake, smaller earthquakes in 1070 and 1546, and the 1927 Jericho earthquake.[91]
Rare cave ecosystem
In May 2006, a naturally sealed-off underground space now known as Ayyalon Cave was discovered near Ramla, outside
One of the finds was an eyeless scorpion, given the name
Demographics
Year | Pop. | ±% p.a. |
---|---|---|
1945 | 15,300 | — |
1972 | 34,000 | +3.00% |
2001 | 62,000 | +2.09% |
2004 | 63,462 | +0.78% |
2009 | 65,800 | +0.73% |
2014 | 72,293 | +1.90% |
According to the
Most Jews from Karachi, Pakistan, have migrated to Israel and have resettled in Ramle, where they have built a synagogue named Magen Shalome, after the Magain Shalome Synagogue from Karachi.[96]
Economy
According to CBS data, there were 21,000 salaried workers and 1,700 self-employed persons in Ramla in 2000. The mean monthly wage for a salaried worker was
Nesher Israel Cement Enterprises, Israel's sole producer of cement, maintains its flagship factory in Ramla.[97] Archaeological excavations on the grounds of the Nesher quarry have discovered the remains of a large Second Temple Jewish town and the Christian Byzantine settlement established over it. Over fifty underground hiding complexes were found in the area, some used for storage and others believed to be hiding places for humans with access to water.[98]
Infrastructure
Transportation
Education
According to CBS, there are 31 schools and 12,000 students in the city. These include 22 elementary schools with a student population of 7,700 and nine high schools with a population of 3,800. In 2001, 47% of Ramla's 12th grade students graduated with a bagrut matriculation certificate. Many of the Jewish schools are run by Jewish orthodox organisations.
The Arabs, both Muslims and Christian, increasingly depend on their own private schools and not Israeli governmental schools. There are currently two Christian schools, such as Terra Santa School, the Greek Orthodox School, and there is one Islamic school in preparations.
The Owpen House in Ramla is a preschool and daycare center for Arab and Jewish children. In the afternoons, Open House runs extracurricular coexistence programs for Jewish, Christian, and Muslim children.[100]
Notable people
Alphabetical list by surname where extant. Traditional, pre-modern Arab names by ism (given name).
- Elias Abuelazam (born 1976), serial killer
- Ron Atias (born 1995), taekwondo athlete who represented Israel at the 2016 Summer Olympics
- Orna Barbivai (born 1962), army general and politician
- Arab nationalist leader of the Youth Congress Party
- Amir Hadad (born 1978), tennis player[101]
- Barno Itzhakova (1927–2001), Tajik vocalist, immigrated to Ramla in 1991
- Khayr al-Din al-Ramli, 17th-century Islamic legal scholar
- Moni Moshonov (born 1951), actor and comedian
- Yishai Oliel(born 2000), tennis player
- Khalil al-Wazir (1935–1988), a.k.a. Abu Jihad; Palestinian Arab co-founder of the Fatah organization
Twin towns—sister cities
Ramla is
See also
References
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- ^ Morris, 2004, p. 427
- ^ Many of the refugees including a large number of children died (at least 400+ according to the Arab historian 'Aref al-Aref) from thirst, hunger, and heat exhaustion after being stripped of their valuables on the way out by Israeli soldiers. Morris, "Operation Dani and the Palestinian Exodus from Lydda and Ramle in 1948", The Middle East Journal, 40 (1986) 82–109; Morris, 2004, pp. 429–430, who quotes the orders; The Rabin Memoirs (censored section, The New York Times, 23 October 1979).
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- Morris 2008, p. 408: "although an atmosphere of what would later be called ethnic cleansing prevailed during critical months, transfer never became a general or declared Zionist policy. Thus, by war's end, even though much of the country had been 'cleansed' of Arabs, other parts of the country—notably central Galilee—were left with substantial Muslim Arab populations, and towns in the heart of the Jewish coastal strip, Haifa and Jaffa, were left with an Arab minority."
- Spangler 2015, p. 156: "During the Nakba, the 1947 [sic] displacement of Palestinians, Rabin had been second in command over Operation Dani, the ethnic cleansing of the Palestinian towns of towns of Lydda and Ramle."
- Schwartzwald 2012, p. 63: "The facts do not bear out this contention [of ethnic cleansing]. To be sure, some refugees were forced to flee: fifty thousand were expelled from the strategically located towns of Lydda and Ramle ... But these were the exceptions, not the rule, and ethnic cleansing had nothing to do with it."
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- Nasir-i-Khusrau (1897). Le Strange, Guy (ed.). Vol IV. A journey through Syria and Palestine. By Nasir-i-Khusrau [1047 A.D.]. The pilgrimage of Saewulf to Jerusalem. The pilgrimage of the Russian abbot Daniel. Translated by Guy Le Strange. London: Palestine Pilgrims' Text Society.
- Palmer, E. H. (1881). The Survey of Western Palestine: Arabic and English Name Lists Collected During the Survey by Lieutenants Conder and Kitchener, R. E. Transliterated and Explained by E.H. Palmer. Committee of the Palestine Exploration Fund.
- Petersen, Andrew (2005). The Towns of Palestine Under Muslim Rule. British Archaeological Reports. ISBN 1841718211.
- Pococke, R. (1745). A description of the East, and some other countries. Vol. 2. London: Printed for the author, by W. Bowyer. (Pococke, 1745, vol 2, p. 4; cited in Robinson and Smith, vol. 3, 1841, p. 233)
- ISBN 978-1407083865.
- ISBN 0-521-39037-0.
- Robinson, E.; Smith, E. (1841). Biblical Researches in Palestine, Mount Sinai and Arabia Petraea: A Journal of Travels in the year 1838. Vol. 3. Boston: Crocker & Brewster.
- ISBN 978-90-04-07819-2.
- Taxel, Itamar (May 2013). "Rural Settlement Processes in Central Palestine, ca. 640–800 C.E.: The Ramla-Yavneh Region as a Case Study". Bulletin of the American Schools of Oriental Research. 369 (369). The American Schools of Oriental Research: 157–199. S2CID 163507411.
Further reading
- Petersen, Andrew; Pringle, Deny, eds. (2021). Ramla: City of Muslim Palestine, 715-1917: Studies in History, Archaeology and Architecture. Oxford: Archaeo Press. ISBN 978-1-78969-776-6.
External links
- Official site (in Hebrew)
- "A Dangerous Tour at Ramle", by Eitan Bronstein
- Portal Ramla
- Israel Service Corps: Ramla Community Involvement
- The Tower of Ramla, 1877
- Survey of Western Palestine, Map 13: IAA, Wikimedia commons