Sussex
Sussex | |
---|---|
Historic county | |
Area | |
• Coordinates | 51°N 0°E / 51°N 0°E |
History | |
• Origin | Sub-Roman Britain |
• Created | 5th century (traditionally 477) |
Status | Historic county |
Chapman code | SSX |
Government | |
• HQ | Various |
• Motto | "We wunt be druv" |
Contained within | |
• Ceremonial counties | East Sussex • West Sussex |
Subdivisions | |
• Type | Rapes (largest & most notable of differing former subdivisions) |
• Units | |
Sussex (
The
The basic division of Sussex into east and west for the purposes of administration continued in subsequent local government reform. The Lord Lieutenant and Sheriff of Sussex were replaced in 1974 with separate posts for East and West Sussex, with Sussex losing its status as a ceremonial county.
Sussex is bordered by
Sussex is recognised as a single cultural region, significant in culture and sport and is used by a range of organisations as a regional unit. In 2007, Sussex Day was created to celebrate the county's culture and history.
Toponymy
The name "Sussex" is derived from the
The earliest-known usage of the term South Saxons (Latin: Australes Saxones) is in a royal charter of 689 which names them and their king, Noðhelm, although the term may well have been in use for some time before that. The monastic chronicler who wrote up the entry classifying the invasion seems to have got his dates wrong; recent scholars have suggested he might have been a quarter of a century too late.[1]
In the Domesday Book of 1086, Sussex is recorded as Sudsexe.[2]
Three United States counties (in Delaware, New Jersey and Virginia), and a former county/land division of Western Australia, are named after Sussex.
Symbols
The
The county day, called
Sussex's motto,
Geography
Landscape
- South Coast Plain
- South Downs
- Wealden Greensand
- Low Weald
- High Weald
- Pevensey Levels
- Romney Marshes
At 280 metres (920 feet),
Climate
The coastal resorts of Sussex and neighbouring Hampshire are the sunniest places in the United Kingdom.[6] The coast has consistently more sunshine than the inland areas: sea breezes, blowing off the sea, tend to clear any cloud from the coast.[7] The sunshine average is approximately 1,900 hours a year; this is much higher than the UK average of 1,340 hours a year. Most of Sussex lies in hardiness zone 8; the exception is the coastal plain west of Brighton, which lies in the milder zone 9.
Rainfall is below average with the heaviest precipitation on the South Downs with 950 mm (37 in) of rainfall per year.
The climate of the coastal districts is strongly influenced by the sea, which, because of its tendency to warm up slower than land, can result in cooler temperatures than inland in the summer. In the autumn months, the coast sometimes has higher temperatures.[7] Rainfall during the summer months is mainly from thunderstorms and thundery showers; from January to March the heavier rainfall is due to prevailing south-westerly frontal systems.[7]
In winter, the east winds can be as cold as further inland.[7] Selsey is known as a tornado hotspot, with small tornadoes hitting the town in 1986, 1998 and 2000,[6] with the 1998 tornado causing an estimated £10 million of damage to 1,000 buildings.[6]
Conurbations
Most of Sussex's population is distributed in an east–west line along the English Channel coast or on the east–west line of the
Rank | Urban area[8] | Population | Statistical localities[9] |
Comments | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
2001 Census[8] | 2011 Census[10] | ||||
1 | Brighton/Worthing/Littlehampton
|
461,181 | 474,485 | 10 | Sometimes referred to as two primary urban areas – Brighton Urban Area and Worthing Urban Area[11] |
2 | Crawley | 180,177 | 180,508 | 6 | Includes approx. 30,000 people living in Surrey. In the 2001 census this urban area included Reigate and Redhill in Surrey but in the 2011 census it did not. East Grinstead was part of this urban area for the 2011 census but it was not for previous censuses. |
3 | Hastings/Bexhill | 126,386 | 133,422 | 2 | |
4 | Eastbourne | 106,562 | 118,219 | 1 | |
5 | Bognor Regis | 62,141 | 63,885 | 1 |
Population
The combined population of Sussex as of 2021 was about 1.7 million.[nb 1] In 2021, Sussex had a population density of 451 per km2, higher than the average for England of 434 per km2.
- The earliest statement as to the population of Sussex is made by Bede, who describes the county in the year 681 as containing land for 7,000 families; allowing ten to a family (a reasonable estimate at that date), the total population would be 70,000.[12]
- In 1693 the county is said to have contained 21,537 houses.
- The 1801 census found that the population was 159,311.
The decline of the Sussex ironworks probably accounts for the small increase in population during several centuries, although after the
History
Beginnings
Finds at
Sussex is rich in remains from the Bronze and Iron Ages, in particular the Bronze Age barrows known as the Devil's Jumps and Cissbury Ring, one of Britain's largest hillforts. Towards the end of the Iron Age in 75 BC people from the Atrebates, one of the tribes of the Belgae, a mix of Celtic and German stock, invaded and occupied southern Britain.[17] This was followed by an invasion by the Roman army under Julius Caesar that temporarily occupied south-eastern Britain in 55 BC.[17] Soon after the first Roman invasion had ended, the Celtic
Roman canton
A number of archaeologists now think there is a strong possibility that the Roman invasion of Britain in AD 43 started around Fishbourne and Chichester Harbour rather than the traditional landing place of Richborough in Kent. According to this theory, the Romans were called to restore the refugee Verica, a king whose capital was in the Selsey and Chichester area,[18] who had been driven out by the Catuvellauni, a tribe based around modern Hertfordshire.[21]
Much of Sussex was a Roman canton of the Regni, probably taking a similar area to the pre-Roman tribal area and kingdom.[19] Its capital was at Noviomagus Reginorum, modern-day Chichester, close to the pre-Roman capital of the area, around Selsey. Sussex was home to the magnificent Roman Palace at Fishbourne, by far the largest Roman residence known north of the Alps. The Romans built villas, especially on the coastal plain and around Chichester, one of the best preserved being that at Bignor. Christianity first came to Sussex at this time, but faded away when the Romans left in the 5th century. The nationally important Patching hoard of Roman coins that was found in 1997 is the latest find of Roman coins found in Britain, probably deposited after 475 AD, well after the Roman departure from Britain around 410 AD.[22]
Kingdom of Sussex
The foundation legend of Sussex is provided by the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, which states that in the year AD 477
By the 7th century, South Saxon kings were ruling from sites around Selsey (the pre-Roman capital of the area) and Chichester (the Roman capital of the area) initially with similar borders to the pre-Roman kingdom and Roman canton.
Following a period of rule by King Offa of Mercia, Sussex regained its independence but was annexed by Wessex around 827 and was fully absorbed into the crown of Wessex in 860,[30][31] which later grew into the kingdom of England.
Norman Sussex
The
Sussex experienced some of the greatest changes of any English county under the Normans, for it was the heartland of King Harold and was potentially vulnerable to further invasion.[36] In the immediate aftermath of the Normans' landing at Pevensey and the Battle of Hastings and to put an end to any rebellion, the Norman army destroyed estates and other assets on their route through Sussex, leading to a 40 per cent reduction in Sussex's wealth, a situation worse than any other southern or midland county. By 1086 wealth in Sussex was still 10 to 25 per cent lower than it had been in 1066.[37]
It was also during the Norman period that Sussex achieved its greatest importance in comparison with other English counties.[38] Sussex was on the main route between England and Normandy, and the lands of the Anglo-Norman nobility in what is now western France. The growth in Sussex's population, the importance of its ports and the increased colonisation of the Weald were all part of changes as significant to Sussex as those brought by the neolithic period, by the Romans and the Saxons.[38] Sussex also experienced the most radical and thorough reorganisation of land in England. The county's existing sub-divisions, known as rapes, were made into castleries and each territory was given to one of William's most trusted barons. Castles were built to defend the territories including at Arundel, Bramber, Lewes, Pevensey and Hastings. Sussex's bishop, Æthelric II, was deposed and imprisoned and replaced with William the Conqueror's personal chaplain, Stigand.[39] The Normans also built Chichester Cathedral and moved the seat of Sussex's bishopric from Selsey to Chichester. The Normans also founded new towns in Sussex, including New Shoreham (the centre of modern Shoreham-by-Sea), Battle, Arundel, Uckfield and Winchelsea.[36]
Sussex under the Plantagenets
In 1264, the Sussex Downs were the location of the
Early modern Sussex
The
Henry VIII's separation of the Church of England from Rome and the dissolution of the monasteries led to the demolition of Lewes Priory and Battle Abbey and the sites being given to Henry's supporters. The shrine to St Richard at Chichester Cathedral was also destroyed. Mary I returned England to Catholicism and in Sussex 41 Protestants were burned to death. Under Elizabeth I, religious intolerance continued albeit on a lesser scale, with several people being executed for their Catholic beliefs.[1] In Elizabeth's reign, Sussex was open to the older Protestant forms practised in the Weald as well as the newer Protestant forms coming from Continental Europe; combined with a significant Catholic presence, Sussex was in many ways out of step with the rest of southern England.[45]
Sussex escaped the worst ravages of the English Civil War, although control of the Wealden iron industry was strategically important to both sides. In 1642 there was a skirmish at Haywards Heath when Royalists marching towards Lewes were intercepted by local Parliamentarians. The Royalists were routed with around 200 killed or taken prisoner.[46] Shortly after there were sieges at Chichester and Arundel, and a smaller battle at Bramber Bridge. Despite its being under Parliamentarian control, Charles II was able to journey through the county after the Battle of Worcester in 1651 to make his escape to France from the port of Shoreham.
In 1681 Charles II granted
The Sussex coast was greatly modified by the social movement of sea bathing for health which became fashionable among the wealthy in the second half of the 18th century.[36] Resorts developed all along the coast, including at Brighton, Hastings, Worthing, and Bognor.[36]
Late modern and contemporary Sussex
Poverty increased and by 1801 Sussex had the highest
At the beginning of the 19th century agricultural labourers' conditions took a turn for the worse with an increasing amount of them becoming unemployed, those in work faced their wages being forced down.[56] Conditions became so bad that it was even reported to the House of Lords in 1830 that four harvest labourers (seasonal workers) had been found dead of starvation.[56] The deteriorating conditions of work for the agricultural labourer eventually triggered riots, first in neighbouring Kent, and then in Sussex, where they lasted for several weeks, although the unrest continued until 1832 and became known as the Swing Riots.[56][57]
During
In the post-war era, the
Governance
Politics
From 1290, Sussex returned two
There was a strong
Amongst top-tier local authorities, East and West Sussex County Councils are both held by the Conservatives and Brighton and Hove City Council is led by Labour. Amongst district councils, as of June 2023, the Lib Dems had a majority in three local authorities (Chichester, Eastbourne and Horsham), the Labour Party had a majority in two local authorities (Crawley and Worthing) and the Conservative Party had a majority in one local authority (Adur). Of the six local authorities in no overall control, one had a minority Labour administration (Hastings), one was run by a Lib Dem-Labour-Green coalition (Arun), one was run by a Green-Labour coalition (Lewes), one as run by a Lib Dem-Independent coalition (Mid Sussex) one was run by an Independent-Lib Dem-Green coalition (Rother) and one had a Lib Dem-Green coalition (Wealden). Conservative Katy Bourne is the Sussex Police and Crime Commissioner, having first been elected in 2012. In the 2016 referendum on UK membership of the EU, the people of Sussex voted to leave the EU by the narrowest of margins, by 50.23% to 49.77% or 4,413 votes.[68][69]
Law
Headquartered in Lewes, Home Office policing in Sussex has been provided by Sussex Police since 1968.[70]
The first-tier
Administrative divisions
Historic sub-divisions
A
At the time of the Norman Conquest, there were four rapes: Arundel, Lewes, Pevensey and Hastings. The rape of Bramber was created later in the 11th century and the rape of Chichester was created in the 13th century.
Modern local authority areas
Local government in Sussex has been subject to periodic review over time. Currently, Sussex is currently divided into
- two counties for ceremonial purposes,
- for administrative purposes, into two county council areas(East and West Sussex) and one unitary authority, the city of Brighton and Hove.
There is a
For the governance of a long narrow territory it became practical to divide the county into two sections. The three eastern rapes of Sussex became east Sussex and the three western rapes became west Sussex. This began in 1504, with separate administrations (
Ceremonial county (post 1974) |
Shire county / unitary (post 1888, 1997) |
Districts (post 1974) | |
---|---|---|---|
East Sussex |
East Sussex UK locator map 2010 |
1. East Sussex |
|
2. Brighton & Hove (unitary)
| |||
West Sussex | West Sussex UK locator map 2010 |
3. West Sussex |
|
Economy
Despite its location in the prosperous South East of England, there is considerable economic variation within Sussex. In most areas within Sussex, economic output is close to or significantly lower than the UK average and is far below the average for South East England. For statistical purposes, the UK Government pairs Sussex at the
Tourism in Sussex is well established, and includes seaside resorts and the South Downs National Park. Brighton and Hove has a high density of businesses involved in media, particularly digital or "new media"; since the 1990s Brighton has been referred to as "Silicon Beach".[79] The Greater Brighton City Deal seeks to develop Brighton's creative-tech cluster under the name Tech City South.[78] The University of Sussex and the University of Brighton provide employment for many more. A large part of the county, centred on Gatwick Airport has been recognised as a key economic growth area for South East England[80] whilst reasonable rail connections allow many people to work in London. Several large companies are based in Sussex including
The Sussex Weald had an iron working industry from the Iron Age until the 19th century. The glass making industry started on the Sussex/Surrey border throughout the late medieval period until the 17th century.[82] Agriculture in Sussex depended on the terrain, so in the sticky clays and acid sands of the Sussex Weald, pastoral and mixed farming took place, with sheep farming being common on the chalk downland. Fishing fleets continue to operate along the coast, notably at Rye and Hastings. There are working harbours at Rye, Hastings, Newhaven and Shoreham; whilst Pagham, Eastbourne and Chichester harbours cater for leisure craft, as does Brighton Marina. The Mid Sussex area had a thriving clay industry in the early 20th century.
Education
The oldest university in Sussex is the research intensive University of Sussex, founded in 1961[83] at Falmer in Brighton, the first new university in England since World War II. The university consistently ranks among the top 20 universities in the UK.[84] It is home to the renowned Institute of Development Studies and the Science Policy Research Unit, alongside over 40 other established research centres.[85][86]
In 1992 it was joined by the University of Brighton (with campuses in Brighton, Eastbourne and Hastings) and in 2005 by the University of Chichester (with campuses in Chichester and Bognor Regis).[87] Validated by University of the Arts London, higher education is also provided at Greater Brighton Metropolitan College, whose campuses in Brighton, Worthing and Shoreham-by-Sea are referred to as MET University Centre.[88]
Healthcare
The Sussex County Hospital (now the Royal Sussex County Hospital) was founded in 1828 at Brighton[90] whilst the Sussex County Mental Asylum (later 'St. Francis Hospital' and now the Princess Royal Hospital) was founded in 1859 in the centre of county at Haywards Heath.[91] Sussex's first
Culture
Sussex has a centuries-old reputation for being separate and culturally distinct from the rest of England.[96] The people of Sussex have a reputation for independence of thought[97] and have an aversion to being pushed around, as expressed through the Sussex motto, We wunt be druv. Sussex is known for its strong tradition of bonfire celebrations and its proud musical heritage. Sussex in the first half of the 20th century was a major centre for modernism, and saw many radical artists and writers move to its seaside towns and countryside.[98]
The county is home to the
Architecture
Sussex's building materials reflect its geology, being made of flint on and near the South Downs and sandstone in the Weald.[103] Brick is used across the county.[103]
Typically conservative and moderate,
Dialect
Historically, Sussex has had its own dialect with regional differences reflecting its cultural history. It has been divided into variants for the three western rapes of West Sussex, the two eastern rapes of Lewes and Pevensey and an area approximate to the easternmost rape of Hastings.[96][105] The Sussex dialect is also notable in having an unusually large number of words for mud, in a way similar to the popular belief which exists that the Inuit have an unusually large number of words for snow.[106]
Literature
Writers born in Sussex include the
In addition there are writers, who while they were not born in Sussex had a strong connection. This includes
Music
Sussex's rich musical heritage encompasses folk, classical and popular genres amongst others. Composed by William Ward-Higgs,
Sussex has also been home to many composers of classical music including
In popular music, Sussex has produced artists including Leo Sayer, The Cure, The Levellers, Brett Anderson, Keane, The Kooks, The Feeling, Rizzle Kicks, Conor Maynard, Tom Odell, Royal Blood, Rag'n'Bone Man, Celeste, Architects and Maisie Peters. In the 1970s, Sussex was home to Phun City,[119] the UK's first large-scale free music festival and hosted the 1974 Eurovision Song Contest which propelled ABBA to worldwide fame. Major festivals include The Great Escape Festival[120] and Glyndebourne Festival Opera.
Television
Due to the size of the county, it is covered by more than one TV station:
- Brighton & Hove and East Sussex, and also Haywards Heath, East Grinstead, Burgess Hill and Shoreham-by-Sea in West Sussex.
- BBC South covers the remainder of West Sussex.
- ITV Meridian is another regional news which covers the county.
- Crawley is covered by both regions, but receives a better TV signal from BBC London and ITV London.
Religion
Christianity is the predominant religion in Sussex with 57.8 per cent of the population identifying as Christian in the 2011 census.[121] Other results from the 2011 census are: 1.4 per cent as Muslim, 0.7 per cent as Hindu and 30.5 per cent as having no religion.[121]
Sussex has been a single diocese of the established church since the eighth century, after St Wilfrid founded
According to the 2011 census there were about 23,000 Muslims in Sussex, constituting 1.4 per cent of the population. Within Sussex, Crawley had the highest proportion of Muslims with 7.2 per cent of the population.[121]
Jewish people have been recorded as living in Sussex since the 12th century and are first mentioned in 1179/80
A wide variety of non-traditional religious and belief groups have bases in and around
Science
In the 20th century,
In the
In the early 20th century, Sussex was at the centre of one of what has been described as 'British archaeology's greatest hoax'.
Sport
Sussex has a centuries-long tradition of sport. Sussex has played a key role in the early development of both
Sussex is represented in the
Cuisine
The historic county is known for its "seven good things of Sussex".
The county has vineyards and a long history of
Visual arts
Some of the earliest known art in Sussex is the carvings in the galleries of the
Dating from around the 12th century, the 'Lewes Group' of
In the late 18th century three men commissioned important works of the county which ensured that its landscapes and daily life were captured onto canvas.
In the 19th century landscape watercolourist Copley Fielding lived in Sussex and illustrator Aubrey Beardsley and painter and sculptor Eric Gill were born in Brighton. Gill went on to found an art colony in Ditchling known as The Guild of St Joseph and St Dominic, which survived until 1989. The 1920s and 1930s saw the creation of some of the best-known works by Edward Burra who was known for his work of Sussex, Paris and Harlem[172] and Eric Ravilious who is known for his paintings of the South Downs.[173]
In the early 20th century
Notable people
See also
- Culture of Sussex
- Sussex dialect
- Geography of Sussex
- History of Sussex
- Timeline of Sussex history
- Flag of Sussex
- Coat of arms of Sussex
- List of Lord Lieutenants of Sussex
- List of High Sheriffs of Sussex
- Custos Rotulorum of Sussex – Keepers of the Rolls
- Sussex (UK Parliament constituency) – Historical list of MPs for Sussex constituency
- East Sussex
- Geology of East Sussex
- West Sussex
- Kingdom of Sussex
- Sussex by the Sea
- Recreational walks in East Sussex
- Sussex County Cricket Club
- Twitten
- The Sussex Newspaper
- Royal Sussex Regiment
- Sussex Police
- Sussex Police and Crime Commissioner
- Stoolball
Footnotes
Notes
- ^ Combined population of local authority areas of Brighton and Hove (277,103), East Sussex, (557,229) and West Sussex (858,852)
- ^ The London England Temple of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints is located 3 miles (5 km) north of East Grinstead, just over the Surrey border.
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